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in  2015 


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SCENES 


OP 


WONDER  AND  CURIOSITY 


IN 


CALIFORNIA. 


ILLUSTRATED  BY  NINETY-TWO  WELL  FINISHED  ENGRAVINGS, 

KXKCUTEn  PRINCIPALLY  BY  THOMAH  ARMSTRONG  PROM  DUVM  »Y    NAIIL  BROTHER*,  II.  EASTMAN,  ANI>  P.  LOOMI"; 


INCLUDING  THE  MAMMOTH  TRUES  OF  CALAVERAS  ;  TFIE    NATURAL  CAVES  AND  nRIDGES  OF  CALAVERAS 
AND  F.L  DORADO  ;  THF.  VO-SEM1TE  VALLEY  j  THE  MAMMOTH  TREES  OF  MARII'OSA  AND   FREZNO J 
MOUNT  SHASTA     THE  QUICKSILVER  MINES  OF  NEW  ALMA  DEN  AND  HENUIOUITA  \ 
TUB  FA RALLONE  ISLANDS  *,  THE  GEYSER  SPRINGS,  ETC. 


A  study  of  tht  Wonderful  in  Xiitnru  lifi>  us  nearer  to  the  Infinite. 


SAN  FRANCISCO: 
HUTCHINGS  &  ROSENFIELD,  PUBLISHERS, 

MONTGOMERY  STREET. 

1861. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  one  thousand  eight  hundred  and  sixty,  by 
HUTCHQTGS  &  ROSEXF1ELD, 
In  the  Clerk's  olliee  of  the  District  Court  of  the  t'nitcd  States,  for  the  Northern  District  of  California. 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE. 

CHAPTER  I. 

How  the  Calaveras  Grove  was  first  discovered — Principal  Routes  to  the  Calaveras 
Grove — Alcatraces  Island — Angel  Island — Red  Rock — Straits  of  Carquinez — 
City  of  Benicia — Monte  Diablo — Sailing  up  the  San  Joaquin — City  of  Stockton 
— Stockton  to  Murphy's  Camp — Road  to  the  Mammoth-Tree  Grove — The 
Mammoth-Tree  Grove   9 

CHAPTER  II. 

Discovery  and  Location  of  the  Caves  of  Calaveras — The  Entrance — The  Council 
Chamber — The  Cathedral — The  Bishop's  Palace — The  Bridal  Chamber — Mu- 
sical Hall— The  Hotel   51 

chapter  nr. 

Scenery  around  the  Natural  Bridge — The  Upper  Bridges — The  Lower  Bridge   50 

CHAPTER  IV. 


Inducements  to  Travel — California  Landscape  Scenery — The  Mariposa  Indian  War, 


4 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE. 


and  Circumstances  that  led  to  the  Discovery  of  the  Yo-Semite  Valley — Various 
Routes  to  the  Yo-Semite  Valley — The  Journey  from  Stockton — Coulterville — 
The  Start — Bower  Cave — Bower  Cave  to  Deer  Flat — Deer  Flat  to  Crane  Flat 
— The  Mammoth  Trees  near  Crane  Flat — Crane  Flat  to  the  Stand-Point  of 
Silence — Stand-Point  of  Silence — The  Desert  of  the  Mountain — The  Hide  up 
the  Valley — Table  of  Distances — The  First  Night  in  the  Valley— Ride  to  the 
Cho-Looke,  or  Yo-Semite  Fall — The  Ford — Ride  to  Lake  Ah-wi-yah — Legend 
of  Tu-toch-ah-nu-lah — The  Pohono,  or  Bridal  Veil  Fall — Sentinel  Rock — Visit 
to  the  Pi-wy-ack,  or  Vernal  Fall — The  Yo-wi-ye,  or  Nevada  Fall — The  Coun- 
try about  the  Yo-wi-ye  "Waterfall — The  Too-lu-lu-wach,  or  South  Branch 
Waterfall — Ascent  to  the  top  of  the  Cho-Looke,  or  Yo-Semite  Fall — Attempt 
to  ascend  the  great  Semi-Dome,  Tis-sa-ack — Comparison  between  the  Yo- 
Semite  Valley  and  some  parts  of  Switzerland — Departure  from  the  Valley  by 
the  Mariposa  Trail — View  from  Inspiration  Point   61 


The  Discoverers  of  the  Mariposa  and  Frezno  Groves  of  Mammoth  Trees — The 
Mariposa  Grove — The  South  Grove — Visit  to  the  Frezno  Grove — Table  of 


Route  to  New  Almaden — San  Jose — An  Old  Saw — The  Discovery  and  Ownership 
of  the  New  Almaden  Mine — Process  of  Extracting  Quicksilver — The  Road  to 
the  Mine — Process  of  Working  the  Mine — The  Ilenriquita  Quicksilver  Mine — 


CHAPTER  V. 


Distances  to  Mariposa — Town  of  Mariposa 


140 


CHAPTER  VI. 


Dedicatory  Ceremony  of  Blessing  the  Mine 


154 


CHAPTER  VII. 


Mount  Shasta — Ascent  of  Mount  Shasta,  alone. 


173 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


Sail  through  the  Golden  Gate — Crossing  the  Bar — Dou't-care-ishness — Visits  from 
the  Birds — Arrival  at  the  Islands — The  Sea  Lions — The  Hair  Seal — Birds  and 
their  Fggs — Wildness  of  the  Scenes — The  North  Farallones   180 


CON  CENTS. 

CHAPTER  IX. 


5 

PAliE 


The  Three  Roads  to  the  Mission  Dolores — Going — The  San  Francisco  Sugar  Refin- 
ery— The  Mission  Dolores — The  San  Francisco  Industrial  School — The 
Ocean  House — The  Laguna  Hondu — The  Beach  House — The  Drive  along  the 
Beach  to  Seal  Rock — Fort  Point — The  Presidio   200 

CHAPTER  X. 

Sailing  from  the  "Wharf — Crossing  the  Bay — Crooked  Navigation  of  Petaluma 
Creek — Petaluma  and  the  Russian  River  Valley — View  from  Godwin's 
Peak— The  Geysers   221 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


No.  Page. 

1.  Butt  and  Section  of  the  Mammoth-Tree  Trunk   10 

2.  River  Steamboats  leaving  the  Broadway  Wharf,  San  Francisco   15 

3.  Alcatraces  Island   16 

4.  Red  Rock   20 

5.  The  Two  Sisters   21 

6.  Straits  of  Carquinez   21 

7.  City  of  Benicia  ,   23 

8.  Monte  Diablo   26 

9.  Night  Scene  on  the  San  Joaquin  River   31 

10.  A  Prairie  Schooner     35 

11.  The  Big-Tree  Cottage   41 

12.  Cotillion  Party  on  the  Stump  of  Mammoth  Tree   42 

13.  "Workmen  felling  the  Mammoth  Tree   43 

14.  Bowling  Alley  on  the  Trunk  of  Mammoth  Tree   44 

15.  The  Father  of  the  Forest   46 

16.  Cone  and  Foliage  of  the  Mammoth  Trees  :   47 

17.  Threo  Graces   49 

18.  Entrance  to  the  Calaveras  Cave   52 

19.  The  Bridal  Chamber  in  the  Calaveras  Cave   54 

20.  Hotel  at  the  Calaveras  Cave   55 

21.  Upper  Side  of  Upper  Natural  Bridge  on  Cayote  Creek   56 

22.  Lower  Side  of  Upper  Natural  Bridge   58 

23.  Upper  Side  of  Lower  Natural  Bridge   59 

24.  Distant  View  of  the  Yo-Semite  Waterfall   62 

25.  Tu-toch-ah-nu-lah   71 

26.  The  Start   82 

27.  Bower  Cave   83 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS.  7 

No.  Page. 

28.  Camping  at  Deer  Flat,,  Night  Scene   84 

29.  Descending  the  Mountains  toward  the  Yo-Semite  Valley   89 

30.  River  Scene  at  the  Foot  of  the  Trail    90 

31.  Eleacha  Peaks   92 

32.  Distant  View  of  the  Pohono  Waterfall   93 

33.  The  Ferry   94 

34.  Crossing  the  Ford   98 

35.  Near  View  of  the  Yo-Semite  Waterfall     99 

36.  Lake  Ah-wi-yah   102 

3V.    Sentinel  Rock   101 

33.    Near  View  of  the  Pohono  Waterfall   110 

39.  River  Scene  just  below  the  Bridge,  looking  East    Ill 

40.  The  Pi-wy-ack  Waterfall   113 

41.  The  Ladders   114 

42.  The  Gorge   115 

43.  The  Yo-wi-ye  Waterfall   116 

44.  Tis-sa-ack,  from  the  Soutli  Canon   119 

45.  The  Too-lu-lu-wach  Waterfall   120 

46.  Indian  Canon   122 

47.  To-coy-ae  and  Tis-sa-ack,  from  the  Valley   126 

48.  Climbing  by  the  Indian  Trail   128 

49.  Ascending  the  Lower  Dome   131 

50.  Cathedral  Rocks  •   137 

51.  General  View  of  the  Yo-Semite  Valley   138 

52.  Scene  in  the  Frezno  Grove  of  Mammoth  Trees   140 

53.  The  Twins  in  Mariposa  Grove  of  Mammoth  Trees   143 

54.  Satan's  Spear   144 

55.  The  Grizzled  Giant   149 

56.  Town  of  Mariposa                                                                            .  153 

57.  Metal  Yard  and  Entrance  to  the  Cinnabar  Mine  of  New  Almaden           .  154 

58.  City  of  San  Jose   157 

59.  The  Quicksilver  Works  at  New  Almaden   158 

60.  The  Smelting  Furnace   159 

61.  Mexicans  weighing  Quicksilver   1G0 

62.  Shrine  of  Sefiora  de  Guadalupe    162 

63.  Mineros  at  work  in  the  Mine    164 

64.  Tenatoros  carrying  Ore  from  the  Mine   165  * 


8  LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 

No.  Page. 

65.  The  Henriquita  Quicksilver  Mane  on  the  Morning  of  Dedication   171 

66.  Mount  Shasta   173 

67.  The  South  Farallone  Islands,  from  Big  Rookery   180 

68.  Clipper  Ship  crossing  the  Bar  at  the  Entrance  of  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco  182 

69.  Enchanted  with  the  delightful  Prospect  off  the  Bar   184 

70.  South-east  View  of  the  Farallone  Islands   185 

71.  Man  in  a  Tight  Place   187 

72.  Sea  Lions  and  their  Young   188 

73.  The  Hair  Seal  of  the  Pacific   189 

74.  The  Murre  ;C i.   192 

75.  Murre's  Egg,  natural  size   193 

76.  The  Tufted  Puffin   193 

77.  View  from  "West  End  of  Farallone  Islands   195 

78.  View  from  the  North  Landing  of  Farallone  Islands   197 

79.  South  View  of  Fort  Point  and  the  Golden  Gate   200 

80.  General  "View  of  the  Mission  Dolores   206 

81.  The  Old  Mission  Church  and  Outbuildings   207 

82.  San  Francisco  Industrial  School   210 

83.  The  Ocean  House   215 

84.  Drive  along  the  Beach  toward  Seal  Rock    217 

85.  The  Presidio   219 

86.  "Witches'  Cauldron  at  the  Geyser  Springs   221 

87.  The  Steamboat  "Rambler"  navigating  Petaluma  Creek   224 

88.  Ray's  Ranche,  and  the  Russian  River  Valley   227 

89.  The  Geyser  Springs  Hotel   231 

90    Geyser  Canon   232 

91.  Proserpine's  Grotto  ,   233 

92.  View  of  Clear  Lake,  from  the  Bridge  Dear  the  Geysers   236 


SCENES  OF  WONDER  AND  CURIOSITY 

IN 

CALIFORNIA. 

CHAPTER  I. 
THE  MAMMOTH  TREES  OF  CALAVERAS. 

'•God  of  the  forest's  solemn  shade! 
The  grandeur  of  the  lonely  tree, 
That  wrestles  singly  with  the  gale, 
Lifts  up  admiring  eyes  to  Thee; 
But  more  majestic  far  they  stand, 

When,  side  by  side,  their  ranks  they  form 
To  wave  on  high  their  plumes  of  green, 
And  fight  their  battles  with  the  storm." 

Peabody. 

It  is  much  to  be  questioned  if  the  discovery  of  any  wonder,  in 
any  part  of  the  world,  has  ever  elicited  as  much  general  interest, 
or  created  so  strong  a  tax  upon  the  credulity  of  mankind,  as  the 
discovery  of  the  mammoth  trees  of  California.  Indeed,  those  who 
first  mentioned  the  fact  of  their  existence,  whether  by  word  of 
mouth  or  by  letter,  were  looked  upon  as  near — very  near — relatives 
of  Baron  Munchausen,  Captain  Gulliver,  or  the  celebrated  Don 
Quixote.  The  statement  had  many  times  to  be  repeated,  and 
well  corroborated,  before  it  could  be  received  as  true  ;  and  there 
are  many  persons  who,  to  this  very  day,  look  upon  it  as  a  some- 
what doubtful  "  California  story;"  such,  we  never  expect  to  con- 
1* 


10 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


THE  BUTT  AND  SECTION  OP  THE  MAMMOTH  TREE  TRUNK. 


vince  of  the  realities  we  are  about  to  illustrate  and  describe, 
although  we  do  so  from  our  own  personal  knowledge  and  obser- 
vation. 

HOW  THE  CALAVERAS  GROVE  WAS  FIRST  DISCOVERED, 
t 

In  the  spring  of  1852,  Mr.  A.  T.  Dowd,  a  hunter,  was  employed 
by  the  Union  Water  Company,  of  Murphy's  Camp,  Calaveras 
county,  to  supply  the  workmen  engaged  in  the  construction  of 
their  canal  with  fresh  meat  from  the  large  quantities  of  game 
running  wild  on  the  upper  portion  of  their  works.  Having 
wounded  a  bear,  and  while  industriously  following  in  pursuit,  he 


THE  MAMMOTH  TREES  OF  CALAVERAS. 


11 


suddenly  came  upon  one  of  those  immense  trees,  that  have  since 
become  so  justly  celebrated  throughout  the  civilized  world.  All 
thoughts  of  hunting  were  absorbed  and  lost  in  the  wonder  and 
surprise  inspired  by  the  scene.  "  Surely,"  he  mused,"  this  must 
be  some  curiously  delusive  dream  ;"  but  the  great  realities  stand- 
ing there  before  him,  were  convincing  proof,  beyond  a  doubt, 
that  such  were  no  fanciful  creations  of  his  imagination. 
-  When  he  returned  to  camp,  and  there  related  the  wonders  he 
had  seen,  his  companions  laughed  at  him  and  doubted  his  vera- 
city, which  previously  they  had  considered  to  be  very  reliable. 
He  affirmed  his  statement  to  be  true,  but  they  still  thought  it 
"  too  much  of  a  story"  to  believe — thinking  that  he  was  trying  to 
perpetrate  upon  them  some  first  of  April  joke. 

For  a  day  or  two  he  allowed  the  matter  to  rest — submitting, 
with  chuckling  satisfaction,  to  the  occasional  jocular  allusions  to 
"  his  big  tree  yarn,"  and  continued  his  hunting  as  formerly.  On 
the  Sunday  morning  following,  he  went  out  early  as  usual,  and 
returned  in  haste,  evidently  excited  by  some  event.  "  Boys," 
he  exclaimed,  "  I  have  killed  the  largest  grizzly  bear  that  I  ever 
saw  in  my  life.  While  I  am  getting  a  little  something  to  eat, 
you  make  preparations  to  bring  him  in.  All  had  better  go  that 
can  possibly  be  spared,  as  their  assistance  will  certainly  be 
needed." 

As  the  big  tree  story  was  now  almost  forgotten,  or  by  common 
consent  laid  aside  as  a  subject  of  conversation  ;  and,  moreover,  as 
Sunday  was  a  leisure  day — and  one  that  generally  hangs  the 
heaviest  of  the  seven  on  those  who  are  shut  out  from  social  in- 
tercourse with  friends,  as  many,  many  Californians  unfortunately 
are — the  tidings  were  gladly  welcomed ;  especially  as  the  propo- 
sition was  suggestive  of  a  day's  excitement. 

Nothing  loath,  they  were  soon  ready  for  the  start.  The  camp 
was  almost  deserted.  On,  on  they  hurried,  with  Dowd  as  their 
guide,  through  thickets  and  pine  groves ;  crossing  ridges  and 
canons,  flats  and  ravines ;  each  relating  in  turn  the  adventures 
experienced,  or  heard  of  from  companions,  with  grizzly  bears  and 
other  formidable  tenants  of  the  forests  and  wilds  of  the  moun- 


> 


12 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


tains ;  until  their  leader  came  to  a  dead  halt  at  the  foot  of  the 
tree  he  had  seen,  and  to  them  had  related  the  size.  Pointing  to 
the  immense  trunk  and  lofty  top,  he  cried  out,  "  Boys,  do  you  now 
believe  my  big  tree  story  ?  That  is  the  large  grizzly  I  wanted 
you  to  see.    Do  you  still  think  it  a  yarn  ?" 

Thus  convinced,  their  doubts  were  changed  to  amazement,  and 
their  conversation  from  bears  to  trees ;  afterward  confessing  that, 
although  they  had  been  caught  by  a  ruse  of  their  leader,  they 
were  abundantly  rewarded  by  the  gratifying  sight  they  had 
witnessed  ;  and  as  other  trees  were  found  equally  as  large,  they 
became  willing  witnesses,  not  only  to  the  entire  truthfulness  of 
Mr.  Dowd's  account,  but  also  to  the  fact,  that,  like  the  confession 
of  a  certain  Persian  queen  concerning  the  wisdom  of  Solomon, 
"  the  half  had  not  been  told.'1 

Mr.  Lewis,  one  of  the  party  above  alluded  to,  after  seeing  these 
gigantic  forest  patriarchs,  conceived  the  idea  of  removing  the 
bark  from  one  of  the  trees,  and  of  taking  it  to  the  Atlantic  states 
for  exhibition,  and  invited  Dowd  to  join  him  in  the  enterprise. 
This  was  declined ;  but,  while  Mr.  Lewis  was  engaged  in  obtain- 
ing a  suitable  partner,  some  one  from  Murphy's  Camp  to  whom 
he  had  confided  his  intentions  and  made  known  his  plans,  took  up 
a  posse  of  men  early  the  next  morning  to  the  spot  described  by 
Mr.  Lewis,  and,  after  locating  a  quarter  section  of  land,  imme- 
diately commenced  the  removal  of  the  bark,  after  attempting  to 
dissuade  Lewis  from  the  undertaking.*  This  underhanded  pro- 
ceeding induced  Lewis  to  visit  the  large  tree  at  Santa  Cruz,  dis- 
covered by  Fremont,  for  the  purpose  of  competing,  if  possible, 
with  his  quondam  friend  /  but  finding  that  tree,  although  large, 
only  nineteen  feet  in  diameter  and  286  feet  in  height,  while  that 
in  Calaveras  county  was  thirty  feet  in  diameter  and  302  feet  in 
height,  he  then  turned  his  steps  to  some  trees  reputed  to  be  the 
greatest  in  magnitude  in  the  state,  growing  near  Trinidad,  Klamath 

*  In  the  winter  of  1854,  we  met  Mr.  Lewis  in  Treka,  and  from  his  own  lips  received 
this  account;  and  we  think  it  no  more  than  simple  justice  to  him  hero  to  make  a 
record  of  the  fact,  that  such  an  unfair  and  ungentlemanly  violation  of  confidence  may 
be  both  known  and  censured  as  it  well  deserves  to  be. 


THE  MAMMOTH  TREES  OF  CALAVEKAS. 


13 


county ;  but  the  largest  of  these  he  found  only  to  measure  about 
twenty-four  feet  in  diameter,  and  two  hundred  and  seventy-nine 
feet  in  height ;  consequently,  much  discouraged,  and  after  spend- 
ing about  five  hundred  dollars  and  several  weeks'  time,  he  even- 
tually abandoned  his  undertaking. 

But  a  short  season  was  allowed  to  elapse  after  the  discovery 
of  this  remarkable  grove,  before  the  trumpet-tongued  press  pro- 
claimed the  wonder  to  all  sections  of  the  state,  and  to  all  parts 
of  the  world  ;  and  the  lovers  of  the  marvellous  began  first  to 
doubt,  then  to  believe,  and  afterward  to  flock  from  the  various 
districts  of  California,  that  they  might  see,  with  their  own  eyes, 
the  objects  of  which  they  bad  heard  so  much. 

No  pilgrims  to  Mohamed's  tomb  at  Mecca,  or  to  the  reputed 
vestment  of  our  Saviour  at  Treves,  or  to  the  Juggernaut  of  Hin 
dostan,  ever  manifested  more  interest  in  the  superstitious  objects 
of  their  veneration,  than  the  intelligent  and  devout  worshippers 
of  the  wonderful  in  nature  and  science  of  our  own  country,  in 
their  visit  to  the  Mammoth-Tree  Grove  of  Calaveras  county,  high 
up  in  the  Sierras. 

Murphy's  Camp,  then  known  as  an  obscure  though  excellent 
mining  district,  was  lifted  into  notoriety  by  its  proximity  to,  and 
as  the  starting-point  for,  the  Big-Tree  Grove,  and  consequently 
was  the  centre  of  considerable  attraction  to  visitors. 

PRINCIPAL  ROUTES  TO  THE  CALAVERAS  GROVE. 

As  very  many  persons  will  doubtless  wish  to  visit  these  re- 
markable places,  and  as  we  cannot  in  this  brief  work  describe  all 
the  various  routes  to  these  great  natural  marvels,  from  every  vil- 
lage, town,  and  city  in  the  state — for  they  are  almost  as  numerous 
and  diversified  as  the  different  roads  that  Christians  seem  to 
take  to  their  expected  heaven,  and  the  multitudinous  creeds  about 
the  way  and  manner  of  getting  there — we  shall  content  ourselves 
by  giving  the  principal  ones  ;  and,  after  having  recited  the  follow- 
ing quaint  and  unanswerable  argument  of  a  celebrated  divine  to 
the  querulous  and  uncharitably  disposed  members  of  his  flock,  we 
shall  proceed  upon  our  course : 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


"  There  was  a  Christian  brother — a  Presbyterian — who  walked 
up  to  the  gate  of  the  New  Jerusalem,  and  knocked  for  admittance, 
when  an  angel  who  was  in  charge,  looked  down  from  above  and 
inquired  what  he  wanted.  '  To  come  in,'  was  the  answer.  '  Who 
and  what  are  you  V  '  A  Presbyterian.'  '  Sit  on  that  seat  there.' 
This  was  on  the  outside  of  the  gate ;  and  the  good  man  feared 
that  he  had  been  refused  admittance.  Presently  arrived  an 
Episcopalian,  then  a  Baptist,  then  a  Methodist,  and  so  on,  until  a 
representative  of  every  Christian  sect  had  made  his  appearance ; 
and  were  alike  ordered  to  take  a  seat  outside.  Before  they  had 
long  been  there,"  continued  the  good  man,  "  a  loud  anthem  broke 
forth,  rolling  and  swelling  upon  the  air,  from  the  choir  within ; 
when  those  outside  immediately  joined  in  the  chorus.  '  Oh  !' 
said  the  angel,  as  he  opened  wide  the  gate,  '  I  did  not  know  you 
by  your  names,  but  you  have  all  learned  one  song — come  in ! 
come  in  !  The  name  you  bear,  or  the  way  by  which  you  came, 
is  of  little  consequence  compared  with  your  being  here  at  all.' 
As  you,  my  brethren,"  the  good  man  went  on — "  as  you  expect 
to  live  peaceably  and  lovingly  together  in  heaven,  you  had  better 
begin  to  practice  it  on  earth.    I  have  done." 

As  this  allegorical  advice  needs  no  words  of  application  either 
to  the  traveller  or  the  Christian,  in  the  hope  that  the  latter  will 
take  the  admonition  of  Captain  Cuttle,  "  and  make  a  note  on't," 
and  an  apology  to  the  reader  for  this  digression,  we  will  enter  at 
once  upon  our  pleasing  task. 

To  those  who  reside  in,  or  contiguous  to,  and  wish  to  start  from 
San  Francisco,  the  most  direct  route  to  any  of  the  mammoth-tree 
groves  is  by  Stockton.  That  city  can  be  reached  by  steamboat  or 
stage.  To  take  the  latter,  the  traveller  should  cross  the  bay  in  the 
first  of  the  Contra  Costa  ferry-boats  for  Oakland — which  generally 
leave  the  Yallejo  street  wharf,  San  Francisco,  every  morning,  at 
eight  a.m. — and  thence  proceed  overland  ;  if  the  former,  he  should 
repair  to  the  Broadway  street  wharf  a  little  before  four  o'clock 
p.m.,  on  any  day  (Sundays  excepted).  This  being  the  route 
mostly  travelled,  we  shall  confine  our  attention  mainly  to  it. 

There,  probably,  is  not  a  more  exciting  and  bustling  scene  of 


THE  MAMMOTH  TKEES  OF  CALAVERAS . 


15 


STEAMBOATS  LEAVING  THE  WHARF — THE  ANTELOPE  FOR  SACRAMENTO,  AND  THE  BRAGDON 

FOR  STOCKTON. 


business  activity  in  any  part  of  the  world,  than  can  be  witnessed 
on  almost  any  day,  Sunday  excepted,  at  Broadway  street  wharf, 
San  Francisco,  at  a  few  minutes  before  four  o'clock  p.m.  Men 
and  women  are  hurrying  to  and  fro ;  drays,  carriages,  express- 
wagons,  and  horsemen,  dash  past  you  with  as  much  rapidity  and 
earnestness  as  though  they  were  the  bearers  of  a  reprieve  to  some 
condemned  criminal,  whose  last  moment  of  life  had  nearly  ex- 
pired, and,  by  its  speedy  delivery,  thought  they  could  save  him 
from  the  scaffold.  Indeed,  one  would  suppose,  by  the  apparent 
recklessness  of  manner  in  riding  and  driving  through  the  crowd, 
that  numerous  limbs  would  be  broken,  and  carriages  made  into 
pieces  as  small  as  mince-meat ;  but  yet,  to  your  surprise,  nothing 
of  the  kind  occurs,  for,  on  arriving  at  the  smallest  real  obstacle  to 


16 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


their  progress,  animals  are  suddenly  reined  in,  with  a  promptness 
that  astonishes  you. 

On  these  occasions,  too,  there  is  almost  sure  to  he  one  or  more 
intentional  passengers  that  arrive  just  too  late  to  get  aboard,  and 
who,  in  their  excitement,  often  throw  an  overcoat  or  valise  on 
the  boat,  or  overboard,  but  neglect  to  embrace  the  only  opportune 
moment  to  get  on  board  themselves,  and  are  consequently  left 
behind,  as  these  boats  are  always  punctual  to  their  time  of  starting. 

With  the  reader's  consent,  as  he  may  be  a  stranger  to  the  vari- 
ous scenes  of  our  beautiful  California,  we  will  bear  him  company, 
and  explain  some  of  the  objects  we  may  see.  As  it  is  always  cool 
in  San  Francisco  on  a  summer  afternoon,  we  would  invite  him  to 
please  put  on  his  overcoat  or  cloak,  and  let  us  take  a  cosy  seat 
together  on  deck  ;  and,  while  the  black  volumes  of  smoke  are 
rolling  from  the  tops  of  the  funnels,  and  our  boat  is  shooting  past 
this  wharf,  and  that  vessel  now  lying  at  anchor  in  the  bay,  or, 
while  numerous  nervous  people  are  troubled  about  their  baggage, 
asking  the  porter  all  sorts  of  questions,  let  us  have  a  quiet  chat 
upon  the  sights  we  may  witness  on  our  trip. 

The  first  object  of  interest  that  we  find  after  leaving  the  wharves 
of  the  city  behind,  is 

ALCATRACES  OR  PELICAN  ISLAND. 


ALCATRACES  ISLAND. 


'  This,  we  see,  is  just  opposite  the  Golden  Gate,  and  about  half 
way  between  San  Francisco  and  Angel  Island.    It  commands  the 


THE  MAMMOTH  TKEES  OF  CALAVERAS. 


17 


entrance  to  the  great  bay  of  San  Francisco,  and  is  but  three  and  a 
half  miles  from  Fort  Point. 

This  island  is  one  hundred  and  forty  feet  in  height  above  low 
tide,  four  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  width,  and  sixteen  hundred 
and  fifty  feet  in  length  ;  somewhat  irregular  in  shape,  and  forti- 
fied on  all  sides.  The  large  building  on  its  summit,  about  the 
centre  or  crest  of  the  island,  is  a  defensive  barracks  or  citadel, 
three  stories  high,  and  in  time  of  peace  will  accommodate  about 
two  hundred,  and  in  time  of  war  at  least  three  times  that  number. 
It  is  not  only  a  shelter  for  the  soldiers,  and  will  withstand  a  re- 
spectable cannonade,  but  from  top  a  murderous  fire  could  be 
poured  upon  its  assailants  at  all  parts  of  the  island,  and  from 
whence  every  point  of  it  is  visible.  There  is  a  belt  of  fortifica- 
tions encircling  the  island,  consisting  of  a  series  of  Barbette 
batteries,  mounting  altogether  about  ninety-four  guns — twenty- 
four,  forty-two,  sixty-eight,  and  one  hundred  and  thirty-two 
pounders. 

The  first  building  that  you  notice,  after  landing  at  the  wharf,  is 
a  massive  brick  and  stone  guard-house,  shot  and  shell  proof,  well 
protected  by  a  heavy  gate  and  draw-bridge,  and  has  three  em- 
brasures for  twenty-four  pound  howitzers,  that  command  the 
approach  from  the  wharf.  The  top  of  this,  like  the  barracks,  is 
flat,  for  the  use  and  protection  of  riflemen.  Other  guard-houses, 
of  similar  construction,  are  built  at  different  points,  between  which 
there  are  long  lines  of  parapets  sufficiently  high  to  preclude  the 
possibility  of  an  escalade ;  and  back  of  which  are  circular  plat- 
forms for  mounting  guns  of  the  heaviest  calibre,  some  of  which 
weigh  from  nine  to  ten  thousand  pounds.  In  addition  to  these, 
there  are  three  bomb-proof  magazines,  each  of  which  will  hold 
ten  thousand  pounds  of  powder.  On  the  south-eastern  side  of  the 
island  is  a  large  furnace  for  the  purpose  of  heating  cannon  balls, 
and  other  similar  contrivances  are  in  course  of  construction. 
'  Unfortunately  there  is  no  natural  supply  of  water  on  the  island, 
so  that  all  of  that  element  which  is  used  there  is  taken  from 
Saucelito.  In  the  basement  of  the  barracks  is  a  cistern  capa- 
ble of  holding  fifty  thousand  gallons  of  water,  a  portion  of 


IS 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


which  can  be  supplied  from  the  roof  of  that  building  in  the  rainy 
season. 

Appropriations  have  been  made  for  the  fortification  of  this 
island,  to  the  amount  of  eight  hundred  and  ninety-six  thousand 
dollars  ;  and  about  one  hundred  thousand  dollars  more  will  com- 
plete them.  From  forty  to  two  hundred  men  have  been  employed 
upon  these  works  since  their  commencement  in  1853. 

At  the  south-eastern  end  of  the  island  is  a  fog-bell,  of  about  the 
same  weight  as  that  at  Fort  Point,  which  is  regulated  to  strike  by 
machinery  once  in  about  every  fifteen  seconds. 

The  whole  of  the  works  on  this  island  are  under  the  skilful 
superintendence  of  Lieutenant  McPherson,  who  very  kindly  ex- 
plained to  us  the  strength  and  purposes  of  the  different  fortifica- 
tions made. 

The  lighthouse  at  the  south  of  the  barracks  contains  a  Fresnel 
lantern  of  the  third  order,  and  which  can  be  seen,  on  a  clear 
night,  some  twelve  miles  outside  the  heads,  and  is  of  great  service 
in  suggesting  the  course  of  a  vessel  when  entering  the  bay. 

Yet,  as  we  are  sailing  on  at  considerable  speed  across  the 
entrance  to  the  bay,  toward  Angel  Island,  we  must  not  linger 
here,  even  in  imagination  ;  especially  as  we  can  now  look  out 
through  the  far-famed  Golden  Gate;  the  golden-hinged  hope  of 
many,  who,  with  lingering  eyes,  have  longed  to  look  upon  it,  and 
to  enter  through  its  charmed  portals  to  this  land  of  gold.  How 
many,  too,  have  longed  and  hoped,  for  years,  to  pass  it  once 
again,  on  their  way  out*  to  the  endeared  and  loving  hearts  that 
wait  to  welcome  them  at  that  dear  spot  they  still  call  Home ! 
God  bless  them ! 

Now  the  vessel  is  in  full  sail,  and  steamships  that  are  entering 
the  heads,  as  well  as  those  within  that  are  tacking,  now  on  this 
stretch,  and  now  on  that,  to  make  way  out  against  the  strong 
north-west  breeze  that  blows  in  at  the  Golden  Gate  for  five-eighths 
of  the  year,  are  fast  being  lost  to  sight,  and  we  are  just  abreast  of 

ANGEL  ISLAND. 

This  island,  but  five  miles  from  the  city  of  San  Francisco,  was 


THE  MAMMOTH  TREES  OF  CALAVERAS. 


19 


granted  by  Governor  Alvarado  to  Antonio  M.  Asio,  by  order  of 
the  government  of  Mexico,  in  1837  ;  and  by  him  sold  to  its  present 
owners  in  1853.  As  it  contains  some  eight  hundred  acres  of  ex- 
cellent land,  it  is  by  far  the  largest  and  most  valuable  of  any  in 
the  bay  of  San  Francisco,  and  the  green  wild  oats  that  grow  to  its 
very  summit  in  early  spring,  give  excellent  pasturage  to  stock  of 
all  kinds ;  while  the  natural  springs  at  different  points  afford 
abundance  of  water  at  all  seasons.  At  the  present  time  there  are 
about  five  hundred  sheep  roaming  over  its  fertile  hills.  A  large 
portion  of  the  land  is  susceptible  of  cultivation  for  grain  and 
vegetables. 

From  the  inexhaustible  quarries  of  hard,  blue,  and  brown 
sandstone  that  here  abound,  have  been  taken  nearly  all  of  the 
stone  used  in  the  foundations  of  the  numerous  buildings  in  San 
Francisco.  The  extensive  fortifications  at  Alcatraces  Island,  Fort 
Point,  and  other  places,  have  been  faced  with  it ;  and  the  exten- 
sive government  works  at  Mare  Island  have  been  principally 
built  with  stone  from  these  quarries ;  yet  many  thousands  of  tons 
will  be  required  from  the  same  source  before  the  fortifications  and 
cither  government  works  are  completed.  Clay  is  also  found  in 
abundance,  and  of  an  excellent  quality  for  making  bricks. 

In  1856  Angel  Island  was  surveyed  by  United  States  Engineers, 
for  the  purpose  of  locating  sites  for  two  twenty-four  gun  batteries, 
which  are  in  the  line  of  fortifications  required  before  our  magnifi- 
cent harbor  may  be  considered  as  fortified.  The  most  important 
of  these  batteries  will  be  on  the  north-west  point  of  the  island,  and 
will  command  Raccoon  Straits ;  and,  until  this  is  built,  our  navy 
yard  at  Mare  Island,  and  even  the  city  of  San  Francisco  itself, 
cannot  be  considered  safe,  inasmuch  as,  through  these  straits,  ships 
of  war  could  easily  enter,  if,  by  means  of  the  heavy  fog  that  so 
frequently  hangs  over  the  entrance  to  the  bay,  or  other  cause, 
they  once  passed  Fort  Point  in  safety.  But  here  we  are  just 
opposite 

RED  ROCK. 

This  singular  looking  island  was  formerly  called  Treasure  or 
Golden  Rock  in  old  charts,  from  a  traditionary  report  being  cir- 


20 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


VIEW  OF  RED  (OR  TREASURE)  ROCK. 


culated  of  some  large  treasure  having  been  once  carried  there  by 
early  Spanish  navigators.  In  charts  of  recent  date,  however,  it  is 
sometimes  called  Molate  Island,  but  is  now  more  generally  known 
as  Red  Rock,  from  its  general  color. 

There  are  several  strata  of  rock,  of  different  colors — if  rock  it 
can  be  called — one  of  which  is  very  fine,  and  resembles  an  article 
sometimes  found  upon  a  lady's  toilet-table — of  course  in  earlier 
days — known  as  rouge-powder.  Besides  this  there  are  several 
strata  of  a  species  of  clay  or  colored  pigment,  of  from  four  to 
twelve  inches  in  thickness,  and  of  various  colors.  Upon  the  beach 
numerous  small  red  pebbles,  very  much  resembling  cornelian,  are 
found.    There  can  be  but  little  wonder  it  should  be  called  "  Red 

•  Rock"  by  plain,  matter-of-fact  people  like  ourselves.  It  is  cov- 
ered with  wild  oats  to  its  summit,  on  which  is  planted  a  flag-staff 
and  cannon.  Some  four  years  ago  its  locater  and  owner,  Mr. 
Selim  E.  Woodworth,  took  about  half  a  dozen  tame  rabbits  over  to 
it,  from  San  Francisco,  and  now  there  are  several  hundred. 

As  Mr.  Woodworth,  before  becoming  a  benedict,  made  this  his 
place  of  residence,  he  partially  graded  its  apparently  inaccessible 
sides ;  and  at  different  points  planted  several  ornamental  trees. 
-  A  small  bachelor's  cabin  stands  near  the  water's  edge,  and  as  this 
affords  the  means  of  cooking  fish  and  sundry  other  dishes,  its 

•  owner,  and  a  small  party  of  friends,  pay  it  an  occasional  visit  for 
'  fishing  and  general  recreation.  Several  sheep  roam  about  on  the 
,  island ;  and  as  they,  like  rabbits,  never  drink  water,  they  do  not 

feel  the  loss  of  that  which  nature  has  here  failed  to  supply. 

But  on,  on,  we  sail,  and  pass  Maria  Island  and  the  Two  Sisters. 


THE  MAMMOTH  TREES  OF  CALAVERAS. 


21 


VIEW  OP  THE  TWO  SISTERS. 


After  leaving  these  behind,  and  shooting  by  Point  San  Pablo, 
we  enter  the  large  bay  of  that  name ;  and  are  charmed  with  the  • 
fine  table  and  grazing  lands  on  our  right,  at  the  foot  of  the 
Contra  Costa  range  of  hills. 

STRAITS  OF  CARQUINEZ. 


VIEW  OP  THE  STKA1TS  OF  CARQUINEZ. 


Just  before  entering  the  Straits  of  Carquinez,  that  connects  the 
bays  of  San  Pablo  and  Suisun,  on  our  left,  we  obtain  a  glimpse 
of  the  government  works  at  Mare  Island  and  the  town  of  Vallejo ; 


22 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


but  as  we  shall  probably  have  something  to  say  about  these  points 
at  some  future  time,  we  will  now  take  a  look  at  the  straits.  As 
the  stranger  approaches  these  for  the  first  time,  he  makes  up  his 
mind  that  the  vessel  on  which  he  stands  is  out  of  her  course,  and 
is  certainly  running  toward  a  bluff,  and  will  soon  be  in  trouble 
if  she  does  not  change  her  course,  but  as  he  advances  and  the 
entrance  to  this  narrow  channel  becomes  visible,  he  concludes 
that  a  few  moments  ago  he  entertained  a  very  foolish  idea. 

Now,  however,  the  bell  of  the  steamboat  and  a  porter  both 
announce  that  we  are  coming  near  Benicia,  and  that  those  who 
intend  disembarking  here  had  better  have  their  baggage  and  their 
ticket  in  readiness. 

BENICIA. 

One  would  suppose  as  the  boat  nears  the  wharf  that  she  is 
going  to  run  "  right  into  it,"  but  soon  she  moves  gracefully  round 
and  is  made  fast ;  but  while  those  ashore  and  those  aboard  are 
eagerly  scanning  each  other,  to  see  if  there  is  any  familiar  face  to 
which  to  give  the  nod  of  recognition,  or  the  cordial  waving  of  the 
hand  in  friendly  greeting,  we  will  take  our  seats,  and  say  a  word 
or  two  about  this  city. 

Benecia  was  founded  in  the  fall  of  1847  by  the  late  Thomas 
0.  Larkin  and  Roland  Semple  (who  was  also  the  originator  and 
editor  of  the  first  California  newspaper  published  at  Monterey, 
August  15th,  1846,  entitled  The  Californian),  upon  land  donated 
them  for  the  purpose  by  General  M.  G.  Vallejo,  and  named  in 
honor  of  the  general's  estimable  lady. 

In  1848,  a  number  of  families  took  up  their  residence  here. 
During  the  fall  of  that  year  a  public  school  was  established, 
which  has  been  continued  uninterruptedly  to  the  present.  In  the 
ensuing  spring  a  Presbyterian  church  was  organized,  and  has 
continued  under  its  original  pastor  to  the  present  time. 

The  peculiarly  favorable  position  of  Benicia  recommended  it  at 
an  early  day  as  a  suitable  place  for  the  general  military  head- 
quarters of  the  United  States,  upon  the  Pacific.  Being  alike 
convenient  of  access  both  to  the  sea-board  and  interior,  and  far 
enough  from  the  coast  to  be  secure  against  sudden  assault  in  time 


THE  MAMMOTH  TKEES  OF  CALAVERAS. 


23 


of  war,  it  was  seen  that  no  more  favorable  position  could  be 
selected,  as  adapted  to  all  contingencies.  These  views  met  the  ap- 
proval of  the  general  government ;  and  accordingly  extensive  store- 
houses were  built,  military  posts  established,  and  arrangements 
made  for  erecting  here  the  principal  arsenal  on  the  Pacific  coast. 

There  already  are  erected 


barracks  for  the  soldiers, 
and  officers'  quarters  ;  two 
magazines,  capable  of  hold- 
ing from  six  thousand  to 
seven  thousand  barrels  of 
gunpowder  of  one  hundred 
pounds  each  ;  two  store- 
houses filled  with  gun-car- 
riages, cannon,  ball,  and  sev- 
eral hundred  stand  of  small 
arms;  besides  workshops,  etc. 

About  one  hundred  men 
are  now  employed,  under 
the  superintendence  of  Cap- 
tain F.  D.  Calender,  in  the 
construction  of  an  arsenal 
two  hundred  feet  in  length 
by  sixty  feet  in  width,  and 
three  stories  in  height,  suit- 
ably provided  with  towers, 
loop-holes,windows,  etc.  Be- 
sides this,  a  large  citadel  is 
in  course  of  erection.  Two 
hundred  and  twenty-five 
thousand  dollars  have  al- 
ready been  appropriated  to 
these  works,  and  they  will 
most  probably  require  as 
much  more  before  the  whole 
is  completed. 


Mil' 


24 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


Here,  too,  are  ten  highly  and  curiously  ornamented  bronze  can- 
non, six  eight-pounders  and  four  four-pounders,  that  were  brought 
originally  from  old  Spain,  and  taken  at  Fort  Point  during  our  war 
with  Mexico.  The  following  names  and  dates,  besides  coats  of 
arms,  etc.,  are  inscribed  on  some  of  them : 

"  San  Martin,  Ano.  D.  1684." 

"Poder,  Ano.  D.  1693." 

"  San  Francisco,  Ano.  D.  1673." 

"  San  Domengo,  Ano.  D.  1679." 

"  San  Pedro,  Ano.  D.  1628." 

As  the  barracks  are  merely  a  depot  for  the  reception  and  trans- 
mission of  troops,  it  is  difficult  to  say  how  many  soldiers  are 
quartered  here  at  any  one  time. 

There  are  numerous  other  interesting  places  about  Benicia,  one 
of  which  is  the  extensive  works  of  the  Pacific  Mail  Steamship 
Company,  where  all  the  repairs  to  their  vessels  are  made,  coal 
deposited,  etc.,  etc. 

In  1853,  Benicia  was  chosen  the  capital  of  the  state  by  our 
peripatetic  legislature,  and  continued  to  hold  that  position  for 
about  a  year,  when  it  was  taken  to  Sacramento,  where  it  still  (for 
a  wonder)  remains. 

And,  though  last,  by  no  means  the  least  important  feature  of 
Benicia,  is  the  widely-known  and  deservedly  flourishing  boarding- 
school  for  young  ladies,  the  Benicia  Seminary,  under  the  charge 
of  Miss  Mary  Atkins,  founded  in  1852,  and  in  which  several 
young  ladies  have  taken  graduating  honors. 

Next  to  this  is  the  collegiate  school  for  young  gentlemen,  under 
the  superintendence  of  Mr.  Flatt,  and  which  was  established  in 
1853  ;  adjoining  which  is  the  college  of  Notre  Dame,  for  the  edu- 
cation of  Catholic  children.  These,  united  to  the  excellent 
sentiments  of  the  people,  make  Benicia  a  favorite  place  of  resi- 
dence for  families. 

MARTINEZ. 

Nearly  opposite  to  Benicia,  and  distant  only  three  miles,  is  the 
pretty  agricultural  village  of  Martinez,  the  county-seat  of  Contra 
Costa  county.    A  week  among  the  live-oaks,  gardens,  and  farms 


THE  MAMMOTH  TREES  OF  CALAVERAS. 


25 


in  and  around  this  lovely  spot,  will  convince  the  most  sceptical 
that  there  are  few  more  beautiful  places  in  any  part  of  the  state. 
A  steam  ferry-boat  plies  across  the  straits  between  this  place  and 
Benicia,  every  hour  in  the  day.  The  Stockton  boat  always  used 
to  touch  here  both  going  and  returning. 

The  run  across  the  Straits  of  Carquinez,  from  Benicia  to  Mar- 
tinez, three  miles  distant,  takes  about  ten  minutes.  Then,  after 
a  few  moments'  delay,  we  again  dash  onward — the  moonlight 
gilding  the  troubled  waters  in  the  wake  of  our  vessel,  as  she 
plows  her  swift  way  through  the  Bay  of  Suisun,  and  to  all  appear- 
ance deepens  the  shadows  on  the  darker  sides  of  Monte  Diablo, 
by  defining,  with  silvery  clearness,  the  uneven  ridges  and  summit 
of  that  solitary  mountain  mass. 

But  now  we  must  hurry  on  our  way,  as  the  steamboat  is  by 
this  time  passing  the  different  islands  in  the  Bay  of  Suisun,  named 
as  follows :  Preston  Island,  King's,  Simmons',  Davis',  Washing- 
ton, Knox's,  Jones',  and  Sherman's  Island ;  while  on  our  right, 
boldly  distinct  in  outline  and  form,  stands 

MONTE  DIABLO. 

•  Almost  every  Californian  has  seen  Monte  Diablo.  It  is  the 
great  central  landmark  of  the  state.  Whether  we  are  walking  in 
the  streets  of  San  Francisco,  or  sailing  on  any  of  our  bays  and 
navigable  rivers,  or  riding  on  any  of  the  roads  in  the  Sacramento 
and  San  Joaquin  Valleys,  or  standing  on  the  elevated  ridges  of 
the  mining  districts  before  us — in  lonely  boldness,  and  at  almost 
every  turn,  we  see  Monte  del  Diablo.  Probably  from  its  apparent 
omnipresence  we  are  indebted  to  its  singular  name,  Mount  of  the 
Devil. 

Viewed  from  the  north-west  or  south-east,  it  appears  double,  or 
with  two  elevations,  the  points  of  which  are  about  three  miles 
apart.  The  south-western  peak  is  the  most  elevated,  and  is  three 
thousand  seven  hundred  and  sixty  feet  above  the  sea. 

For  the  purpose  of  properly  surveying  the  state  into  a  net- 
work of  township  lines,  three  meridians  or  initial  points  were 
established  by  the  United  States  Survey,  namely :  Monte  Diablo, 
2 


26 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


THE  SULPHUR  SPRING  HOUSE,  WITH  A  PORTION  OP  STJISUN  BAT,  FROM  MONTE  DIABLO. 


Mount  San  Bernardino,  and  Mount  Pierce,  Humboldt  county. 
Across  the  highest  peaks  of  each  of  these,  a  "  meridian  line"  and 
a  "  base  line"  were  run ;  the  latter  from  east  to  west,  and  the 
former  from  north  to  south.  The  boundaries  of  the  Monte  Diablo 
meridian  include  all  the  lands  in  the  great  Sacramento  and  San 
Joaquin  Valleys,  between  the  Coast  Range  and  the  Sierras,  and 
from  the  Siskiyou  Mountains  to  the  San  Bernardino  meridian,  at 
the  head  of  the  Tulare  Valley. 

The  geological  formation  of  this  mountain  is  what  is  usually 
termed  "  primitive  ;"  surrounded  by  sedimentary  rocks,  abound- 
ing in  marine  shells.  ISTear  the  summit  there  are  a  few  quartz 
veins,  but  whether  gold-bearing  or  not  has  not  yet  been  deter- 
mined. About  one-third  of  the  distance  from  the  top,  on  the 
western  slope,  is  a  "  hornblende"  rock  of  peculiar  structure,  and 
said  by  some  to  contain  gold.  In  the  numerous  spurs  at  the 
base,  there  is  an  excellent  and  inexhaustible  supply  of  limestone. 

At  the  eastern  foot  of  the  mountains,  about  five  miles  from  the 
San  Joaquin  River,  three  veins  of  stove  coal  have  been  discovered, 
and  are  now  being  worked  with  good  prospects  of  remuneration, 


THE  MAMMOTH  TREES  OF  CALAVERAS. 


27 


as  the  veins  grow  thicker  and  the  quality  hetter,  as  they  proceed 
with  their  labors. 

It  is  said  that  copper  ore  and  cinnabar  have  both  been  found 
here,  but  with  what  truth  we  are  unable  to  determine.  Some 
Spaniards  have  reported  that  they  know  of  some  rich  mineral 
there ;  but  do  not  tell  of  what  kind,  and,  for  reasons  best  known 
to  themselves,  will  neither  communicate  their  secret  to  others  nor 
work  it  themselves. 

If  the  reader  has  no  objection,  we  will  climb  the  mountain — at 
least  in  imagination,  as  the  captain,  although  an  obliging  man 
enough,  will  not  detain  the  boat  for  us  to  ascend  it  de  facto — and 
see  what  further  discoveries  we  can  make. 

Provided  with  good  horses — always  make  sure  of  the  latter  on 
any  trip  you  may  make,  reader — an  excellent  telescope,  and  a 
liberal  allowance  of  luncheon,  let  us  leave  the  beautiful  village  of 
Martinez  at  seven  o'clock  a.m.  For  the  first  four  miles,  we  ride 
over  a  number  of  pretty  and  gently  rolling  hills  at  a  lively  gait, 
and  arrive  at  the  Pacheco  Valley,  on  the  edge  of  which  stands 
the  flourishing  little  village  of  Pacheco.  We  now  dash  across  the 
valley  at  good  speed  for  eight  miles,  in  a  south-east  direction,  and 
reach  the  western  foot  of  Monte  Diablo,  after  a  good  hour's 
pleasant  ride. 

For  the  first  mile  and  a  half  of  our  ascent  wTe  have  a  good 
wagon  road,  built  in  1852,  to  give  easy  access  to  a  quartz  lead, 
from  which  considerable  rock  was  taken  in  wagons  to  the  Bay  of 
Suisun,  and  from  thence  shipped  to  San  Francisco  to  be  tested, 
» and  which  was  found  to  contain  gold,  but  not  in  sufficient  quan- 
tities to  pay  for  working  it ;  and  for  the  next  two  miles,  a  good, 
plain  trail  to  the  main  summit,  passing  several  clear  springs  of 
cold  water. 

From  the  numerous  tracks  of  the  grizzly  bears  that  were  seen 
at  the  springs,  we  may  naturally  conclude  that  such  animals  have 
i  their  sleeping  apartments  among  the  bunches  of  chaparal  in  the 
canons  yonder:  and,  if  we  should  see  the  track-makers  before  we 
return,  we  hope  our  companions  will  keep  up  their  courage  and 
sufficient  presence  of  mind  to  prevent  themselves  imitating  Mr. 


28 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


Grizzly  at  tlie  spring — at  least  not  in  the  direction  of  the  settle- 
.  ments — and  leave  us  alone  in  our  glory. 

As  you  will  perceive,  the  summit  of  the  mountain  is  reached 
without  the  necessity  of  dismounting ;  and  as  there  are  wild  oats 
all  around,  and  the  stores  of  sundries  provided  have  not  been  lost 
or  left  behind,  suppose  we  rest  and  refresh  ourselves,  and  allow 
our  animals  to  do  the  same. 

The  sight  of  the  glorious  panorama  unrolled  at  our  feet,  we  need 
not  tell  you,  amply  repays  us  for  our  early  ride.  As  we  look 
around  us,  we  may  easily  imagine  that  perhaps  the  priests  who 
named  this  mountain  may  have  climbed  it,  and  as  they  saw  the 
wonders  spread  out  before  them,  recalled  to  memory  the  following 
passage  of  holy  writ:  "The  devil  taketh  him  [Jesus]  up  into  an 
exceeding  high  mountain,  and  sheweth  him  all  the  kingdoms  of 
the  world,  and  the  glory  of  them;  and  saith  unto  him,  All  these 
things  will  I  give  thee,  if  thou  wilt  fall  down  and  worship  me." — 
Matthew  4th,  verses  8  and  9 ;  and  from  this  time  called  it  Monte 
del  Diablo.  Of  course,  this  is  mere  supposition,  and  is  as  likely 
to  be  wrong  as  it  is  to  be  right. 

The  Pacific  Ocean ;  the  city,  and  part  of  the  bay  of  San  Fran- 
cisco ;  Fort  Point ;  the  Golden  Gate ;  San  Pablo  and  Suisun 
Bays;  the  government  works  at  Mare  Island ;  Vallejo ;  Benicia; 
the  valleys  of  Santa  Clara,  Petaluma,  Sonoma,  Napa,  Sacramento, 
and  San  Joaquin,  with  their  rivers,  creeks,  and  sloughs,  in  all 
their  tortuous  windings  ;  the  cities  of  Stockton  and  Sacramento ; 
and  the  great  line  of  the  snow-covered  Sierras ;  with  numerous 
'  villages  dotting  the  pine  forests  on  the  lower  mountain  range — are 
■  all  spread  out  before  you.  In  short,  there  is  nothing  to  obstruct 
the  sight  in  any  direction ;  and,  with  a  good  glass,  the  steamers 
and  vessels  at  anchor  in  the  bay,  and  made  fast  at  the  wharves  of 
San  Francisco,  are  distinctly  visible. 

■  Stock  may  be  seen  grazing  in  all  directions  on  the  mountains. 
To  the  very  summit,  wild  oats  and  chaparal  alternately  grow.  In 
the  canons  are  oak  and  pine  trees  from  fifty  to  one  hundred  feet 
in  height ;  and,  on  the  more  exposed  portions,  there  are  low  trees 
from  twenty  to  thirty  feet  in  height. 


THE  MAMMOTH  TREES  OF  CALAVERAS. 


29 


•  In  the  fall  season,  when  the  wild  oats  and  dead  bushes  are  per- 
fectly dry,  the  Indians  sometimes  set  large  portions  of  the  surface 
of  the  mountains  on  fire ;  and,  when  the  breeze  is  fresh,  and  the 
night  is  dark,  and  the  lurid  flames  leap,  and  curl,  and  sway,  now 
to  this  side  and  now  to  that,  the  spectacle  presented  is  magnificent 
beyond  the  power  of  language  to  express. 

SAILING  UP  THE  SAN  JOAQUIN  RIVER. 

The  Sacramento  boat,  we  see,  is  going  straight  forward,  and 
will  soon  enter  the  Sacramento  River,  up  which  her  course  lies; 
while  ours  is  to  the  right — past  "  New  York  of  the  Pacific,"  a 
place  now  containing  only  two  or  three  small  dilapidated  houses,  - 
but  which  was  once  intended  by  specnlators  to  be  the  great  com- 
mercial emporium  of  this  coast — up  the  San  Joaquin. 

The  evening  being  calm  and  sultry,  it  soon  becomes  evident 
that,  if  it  is  not  the  height  of  the  musquito  season,  a  very  numer- 
ous band  are  out  on  a  freebooting  excursion ;  and,  although 
their  harvest-home  song  of  blood  is  doubtless  very  musical,  it  is 
matter  of  regret  with  us  to  confess  that,  in  our  opinion,  but  few 
persons  on  board  appear  to  have  any  ear  for  it.  In  order,  however, 
that  their  musical  efforts  may  not  be  entirely  lost  sight  of,  they — ■ 
the  musquitos — take  pleasure  in  writing  and  impressing  their  low 
refrain,  in  red  and  embossed  notes,  upon  the  foreheads  of  the 
passengers,  so  that  he  who  looks  may  read — musquitos  !  when, 
alas!  such  is  the  ingratitude  felt  for  favors  so  voluntarily  per- 
formed, that  flat-handed  blows  are  dealt  out  to  them  in  impetuous 
haste ;  and  blood,  blood,  blood,  and  flattened  musquitos,  are 
written,  in  red  and  dark  brown  spots,  upon  the  smiter ;  and  the 
notes  of  those  singers  are  heard  no  more ! 

•  While  the  unequal  warfare  is  going  on,  and  one  carcass  of  the 
slain  induces  at  least  a  dozen  of  the  living  to  come  to  his  funeral 
and  avenge  his  death,  wc  are  sailing  on,  on,  up  one  of  the  most 
crooked  and  most  monotonous  navigable  rivers  out  of  doors  ;  and, 
as  we  may  as  well  do  something  more  than  fight  the  little,  bill- 
presenting,  and  tax-collecting  musquitos,  if  only  for  variety,  we 
will  relate  to  the  reader  how,  in  the  early  spring  of  1849,  just 


30 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


before  leaving  our  southern  home  on  the  banks  of  "  the  mother  of 
rivers,"  "  the  old  Mississippi,"  a  gentleman  arrived  from  northern 
Europe,  and  was  at  once  introduced  a  member  of  our  little  family 
circle.  Now,  however  strange  it  may  appear,  our  new  friend  had 
never  in  his  life  looked  upon  a  live  musquito,  or  a  musquito-bar, 
and,  consequently,  knew  nothing  about  the  arrangements  of  a 
goodfemme  de  charge  for  passing  a  comfortable  night,  where  such 
insects  were  even  more  numerous  than  oranges.  In  the  morning, 
he  seated  himself  at  the  breakfast-table,  his  face  nearly  covered 
with  wounds  received  from  the  enemy's  proboscis,  when  an  in- 
quiry was  made  by  the  lady  of  the  house  if  he  had  passed  the 
night  pleasantly.  "  Yes — yes,"  he  replied  with  some  hesitation  ; 
"yes — toler-a-bly  pleasant;  although — a — small — fly — annoyed 
me — somewhat!"  At  this  confession  we  could  restrain  ourselves 
no  longer,  but  broke  out  into  a  hearty  laugh,  led  by  our  good- 
natured  hostess,  who  then  exclaimed  :  "  Musquitos  !  why,  I  never 
dreamed  that  the  marks  on  your  face  were  musquito  bites.  I 
thought  they  might  be  from  a  rash,  or  something  of  that  kind. 
Why  didn't  you  lower  down  your  musquito-bars  ?"  But,  as  this 
latter  appendage  to  a  bed,  on  the  low,  alluvial  lands  of  a  southern 
river,  was  a  greater  stranger  to  him  than  any  dead  language 
known,  the  "  small  fly"  problem  had  to  be  satisfactorily  solved, 
and  his  sleep  made  sweet. 

Perhaps  it  may  be  well  here  to  remark,  that  the  San  Joaquin 
River  is  divided  into  three  branches,  known,  respectively,  as  the 
west,  middle,  and  east  channels — the  latter  named  being  not  only 
the  main  stream,  but  the  one  used  by  the  steamboats  and  sailing- 
vessels  bound  to  and  from  Stockton — or,  at  least,  to  within  four 
miles  of  that  city,  from  which  point  the  Stockton  slough  is  used. 
The  east,  or  main  channel,  is  navigable  for  small,  stern-wheel 
steamboats  as  high  as  Frezno  City.  Besides  the  three  main  chan- 
nels of  the  San  Joaquin,  before  mentioned,  there  are  numerous 
tributaries,  the  principal  of  which  are  the  Moqueluinne,  Calaveras, 
Stanislaus,  Tuolumne,  and  Merced  Rivers. 

An  apparently  interminable  sea  of  tides  extends  nearly  one 
hundred  and  fifty  miles  south,  up  the  valley  of  the  San  Joaquin ; 


THE  MAMMOTH  TREES  OF  CALAVERAS. 


31 


and  when  these  are  on  fire,  as  they  not  unfrequently  are,  during 
the  fall  and  early  winter  months,  the  broad  6heet  of  licking  and 
leaping  flame,  and  the  vast  volumes  of  smoke  that  rise,  and  eddy, 
and  surge,  hither  and  thither,  present  a  scene  of  fearful  grandeur 
at  night,  that  is  suggestive  of  some  earthly  pandemonium. 


SPIGOT  SCENE  ON  THE  SAN  JOAQUIN  RIVER — MONTE  DIABLO  IN  THE  DISTANCE. 


The  lumbering  sound  of  the  boat's  machinery  has  suddenly 
ceased,  and  our  high-pressure  motive  power,  descended  from  a 
regular  to  an  occasional  snorting,  gives  us  a  reminder  that  we 
have  reached  Stockton.    Time,  half-past  two  o'clock  a.m. 

At  day -break  we  are  again  disturbed  in  our  fitful  slumbers  by 
the  rumbling  of  wagons  and  hurrying  bustle  of  laborers  dis- 
charging cargo;  and  before  we  have  scarcely  turned  over  for 
another  uncertain  nap,  the  stentorian  lungs  of  some  employee  of 
the  stage  companies  announce,  that  "  stages  for  Sonora,  Columbia, 
Moquelumne  Hill,  Sacramento,  Mariposa,  Coulterville,  and  Mur- 
phy's, are  just  about  starting." 


32 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


The  reader  knows  as  well  as  we  do,  that  it  is  of  no  use,  what- 
ever, to  he  in  too  great  a  hurry  when  we  are  sight-seeing ;  conse- 
quently, with  his  permission,  we  will  allow  the  stages  to  depart 
without  us  this  morning,  and  take  a  quiet  walk  about  the  city. 

THE  CITY  OF  STOCKTON. 

This  nourishing  commercial  city  is  situated  in  the  valley  of  the 
San  Joaquin,  at  the  head  of  a  deep  navigable  slough  or  arm  of  the 
San  Joaquin  River,  about  three  miles  from  its  junction  with  that 
stream.  The  luxuriant  foliage  of  the  trees  and  shrubs  impress  the 
stranger  with  the  great  fertility  of  the  soil ;  and  the  unusually 
large  number  of  windmills  with  the  manner  of  irrigation.  So 
marked  a  feature  as  the  latter  has  secured  to  this  locality  the  cog- 
nomen of  "  the  City  of  Windmills." 

The  land  upon  which  the  city  stands  is  part  of  a  grant  made  by 
Governor  Micheltorena,  to  Captain  C.  M.  "Weber  and  Mr.  Gulnac, 
in  1844,  who  most  probably  were  the  first  white  settlers  in  the 
valley  of  the  San  Joaquin ;  although  some  Canadian  Frenchmen, 
in  the  employ  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  spent  several  hunt- 
ing seasons  here,  commencing  as  early  as  1834. 

In  1813,  an  exploring  expedition,  under  Lieutenant  Gabriel 
Morago,  visited  this  valley,  and  gave  it  its  present  name — the 
former  one  being  "  Valle  de  los  Tulares,"  or  Valley  of  Rushes. 
At  that  time,  it  was  occupied  by  a  largo  and  formidable  tribe  of 
Indians,  called  the  Yachicumnes,  which,  in  after  times,  was  for  the 
most  part  captured  and  sent  to  the  Missions  Dolores  and  San  Jose, 
or  decimated  by  the  small  pox,  and  now  is  nearly  extinct.  Under 
the  maddening  influence  of  their  losses  by  death  from  that  fatal 
disease,  they  rose  upon  the  whites,  burned  their  buildings  and 
killed  their  stock,  and  forced  them  to  take  shelter  at  the  Mis- 
sions. 

In  1846,  Mr.  Weber,  reinforced  by  a  number  of  emigrants,  re- 
newed his  efforts  to  form  a  settlement ;  but  the  war  breaking  out, 
compelled  him  to  seek  refuge  in  the  larger  settlements,  until  the 
Bear  flag  was  hoisted,  when  Captain  Weber,  from  his  knowledge 
of  the  country,  and  the  devotedness  of  those  who  had  placed 


34 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


themselves  under  his  command,  was  able  to  render  invaluable  aid 
to  the  American  cause. 

When  the  war  was  concluded,  in  -1848,  another  and  successful 
attempt  was  made  to  establish  a  prosperous  settlement  here,  but 
upon  the  discovery  of  gold  it  was  again  nearly  deserted. 

Several  cargoes  of  goods  having  arrived  from  San  Francisco,  for 
land  transportation  to  the  southern  mines,  were  suggestive  of  the 
importance  of  this  spot  for  the  foundation  of  a  city,  when  cloth 
tents  and  houses  sprung  up  as  if  by  magic.  On  the  23d  of  De- 
cember, 1849,  a  fire  broke  out  for  the  first  time,  and  the  "linen 
city,"  as  it  was  then  called,  was  swept  away,  causing  a  loss  of 
about  two  hundred  thousand  dollars.  Almost  before  the  ruins  had 
ceased  smouldering,  a  newer  and  cleaner  "  linen  city,"  with  a  few 
wooden  buildings,  was  erected  in  its  place.  In  the  following 
spring,  a  large  proportion  of  the  cloth  houses  gave  place  to  wooden 
structures ;  and,  being  now  in  steam  communication  with  San 
Francisco,  the  new  city  began  to  grow  substantially  in  importance. 

On  the  30th  of  March,  1850,  the  first  weekly  Stockton  newspa- 
per was  published  by  Radcliffe  and  White,  conducted  by  Mr. 
John  White. 

On  the  same  day,  the  first  theatrical  performance  was  given,  in 
the  Assembly  Room  of  the  Stockton  House,  by  Messrs.  Bingham 
and  Fury. 

On  the  13th  of  May  following,  the  first  election  was  held — the 
population  then  numbering  about  two  thousand  four  hundred. 

June  26th,  a  fire  department  was  organized,  and  J.  E.  Nuttman 
elected  chief  engineer. 

On  the  25th  of  the  following  month  an  order  was  received  from 
the  County  Court,  incorporating  the  city  of  Stockton,  and  author- 
izing the  election  of  officers.  On  the  1st  of  August,  1850,  an 
election  for  municipal  officers  was  held,  when  seven  hundred 
votes  were  polled,  with  the  following  result : — Mayor,  Samuel 
Purdy  ;  Recorder,  C.  M.  Teak  ;  City  Attorney,  Henry  A.  Crabb ; 
Treasurer,  George  D.  Brush  ;  Assessor,  C.  Edmondson ;  Marshal, 
T.  S.  Lubbock. 

On  the  6th  of  May,  1851,  a  fire  broke  out  that  nearly  destroyed 


THE  MAMMOTH  TEEES  OF  CALAVERAS. 


35 


the  whole  city,  at  a  loss  of  one  million  five 
hundred  thousand  dollars.  After  this  con- 
flagration, a  large  number  of  brick  buildings 
were  erected. 

In  1852,  steps  were  taken  to  build  a  City 
Hall ;  and  about  the  same  time,  the  south 
wing  of  what  is  now  the  State  Asylum  for 
the  Insane,  was  erected  as  a  General  Hospi- 
tal ;  but  which  was  abolished  in  1853,  and 
the  Insane  Asylum  formed  into  a  distinct 
institution  by  an  act  of  the  Legislature.  In 
1854,  the  central  building  was  added,  and 
in  1855,  the  kitchen,  bakery,  dining-rooms, 
and  bath-rooms  were  also  added. 

On  the  1st  of  February,  1856,  another 
fire  destroyed  property  to  the  amount  of 
about  sixty  thousand  dollars ;  and  on  the 
30th  of  July  following,  by  the  same  cause, 
about  forty  thousand  dollars'  worth  of  prop- 
erty was  swept  away. 

Of  churches,  there  is  an  Episcopal,  Pres- 
byterian, Methodist  Episcopal,  Catholic, 
Methodist  Episcopal  South,  First  and  Sec- 
ond Baptist,  Jewish  Synagogue,  German 
Methodist,  and  African  Methodist. 

There  are  two  daily  newspapers  pub- 
lished here,  the  San  Joaquin  SepubUoan, 
Conley  and  Patrick,  proprietors ;  and  the 
Stockton  Daily  Argus,  published  by  Wil- 
liam Biven.  Each  of  these  issue  a  weekly 
edition. 

Of  public  schools  there  are  four,  two 
grammar  and  two  primary,  in  which  there 
are  about  two  hundred  scholars  in  daily 
attendance,  and  four  teachers,  one  to  each 
school.    There  are  also  four  private  semi- 


36 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


naries,  Dr.  Collins',  Dr.  Hunt's,  Miss  Bond's,  and  Mrs. 
Gates'. 

Stockton  can  boast  of  having  the  deepest  artesian  well  in  the 
state,  which  is  one  thousand  and  two  feet  in  depth,  and  which 
throws  out  two  hundred  and  fifty  gallons  of  water  per  minute,  fif- 
teen thousand  per  hour,  and  three  hundred  and  sixty  thousand 
gallons  every  twenty-four  hours,  to  the  height  of  eleven  feet  above 
the  plain,  and  nine  feet  above  the  city  grade.  In  sinking  this  well, 
ninety-six  different  strata  of  loam,  clay,  mica,  green  sandstone, 
pebbles,  etc.,  were  passed  through.  Three  hundred  and  forty  feet 
from  the  surface,  a  redwood  stump  was  found,  imbedded  in  sand, 
from  whence  a  stream  of  water  issued  to  the  top.  The  tempera- 
ture of  the  water  is  77°  Fahrenheit — the  atmosphere  being  only 
60°.    The  cost  of  this  well  was  ten  thousand  dollars. 

One  of  the  principal  features  connected  with  the  commerce  of 
this  city,  is  the  number  of  large  freight  wagons,  laden  for  the 
mines;  these  have,  not  inappropriately,  been  denominated  "'prairie 
schooners,"  and  "steamboats  of  the  plains."  One  team,  belonging 
to  Mr.  Warren,  has  taken  one  hundred  thousand  pounds  to  Mariposa 
in  four  trips,  thus  averaging  twenty-five  thousand  per  trip.  An- 
other team,  belonging  to  Mr.  Huffman,  hauled  thirty-two  thousand 
from  Staple's  Ranche  to  Stockton.  Twenty-nine  thousand  six  hun- 
dred and  eighty  pounds  of  freight,  in  addition  to  seven  hundred 
pounds  of  feed,  were  hauled  to  Jenny  Lind — a  mining  town  on  the 
Moquelumne  Hill  road,  twenty-seven  miles  from  Stockton — by 
twelve  mules.  The  cost  of  these  wagons  are  from  nine  hundred  dol- 
lars to  eleven  hundred  and  fifty  dollars.  In  length,  they  are  generally 
from  twenty  to  twenty-three  feet  long  onthe  top,  and  from  eighteen 
to  nineteen  feet  on  the  bottom.  Mules  cost  upon  the  average  three 
hundred  and  fifty  dollars  each  ;  and  some  very  large  ones  sell  as 
high  as  one  thousand  four  hundred  dollars  the  span.  One  man 
drives  and  tends  as  many  as  fourteen  animals,  guiding  and  driving 
with  a  single  line.  These  teams  have  nearly  superseded  the  use 
of  pack  trains,  inasmuch  as  formerly  the  number  of  animals  in 
the  packing  trade  exceeded  one  thousand  five  hundred,  and  now 
it  is  only  about  one  hundred  and  sixty.    It  would  be  a  source  of 


THE  MAMMOTH  TREES  OF  CALAVEKAS. 


37 


considerable  amusement  to  our  eastern  friends,  could  they  see  how 
easily  these  large  mules  are  managed.  They  are  drilled  like  soldiers, 
and  are  almost  as  tractable.  When  a  teamster  cracks  his  whip,  it 
sounds  like  the  sharp  quick  report  of  a  revolver,  and  is  nearly  as  loud. 

Several  stages  leave  Stockton  daily  at  six  o'clock  a.  m.,  as  fol- 
lows :  For  Sacramento  City,  fare  five  dollars  ;  San  Francisco, 
fare  five  dollars  ;  Sonora,  Columbia,  and  Murphy's  Camp,  fare 
eight  dollars.  On  alternate  days  at  the  same  hour  for  Mariposa, 
fare  ten  dollars — this  journey  is  accomplished  in  two  days  ;  Coul- 
terville — changing  stages  at  the  Crimea  House,  but  through  in  one 
day — fare  seven  dollars  and  four  dollars,  making  eleven  dollars  ; 
Moquelumne  River  road,  fare  from  one  dollar  to  five  dollars.  It 
perhaps  ought  to  be  here  remarked,  that  coach  fares  generally  dif- 
fer, according  to  the  number  and  force  of  "  opposition"  lines,  so 
that  the  above  must  be  understood  as  almost  the  regular  stages. 

STOCKTON  TO  MURPHy's  CAMP. 

"  All  aboard  for  Murphy's !"  cries  the  coachman;  "All  set!" 
shouts  somebody  in  answer ;  when  "  crack  goes  the  whip  and 
away  go  we." 

There  is  a  feeling  of  jovial,  good-humored  pleasureableness  that 
steals  insensibly  over  the  secluded  residents  of  cities  when  all  the 
cares  of  a  daily  routine  of  duties  are  left  behind,  and  the  novelty 
of  fresh  scenes  forms  new  sources  of  enjoyment.  Especially  is  it 
so  when  seated  comfortably  in  an  easy  old  stage,  with  the  pros- 
pect before  us  of  witnessing  one  of  the  most  wonderful  sights  to 
be  found  in  any  far-off  country,  either  of  the  old  or  new  world. 
Besides,  in  addition  to  our  being  in  the  reputed  position  of  a 
Frenchman  with  his  dinner,  who  is  said  to  enjoy  it  three  times — 
first,  by  anticipation ;  second,  in  action;  and  third,  upon  reflection; 
we  have  new  views  perpetually  breaking  upon  our  admiring  sight. 

As  soon  as  we  have  passed  over  the  best  gravelled  streets  of  any 
town  or  city  in  the  state,  without  exception,  we  thread  our  way 
past  the  beautiful  suburban  residences  of  the  city  of  Stockton,  and 
emerge  from  the  shadows  of  the  giant  oaks  that  stand  on  either 
side  the  road.    The  deliciously  cool  breath  of  early  morning,  laden 


38 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


as  it  is  iii  spring  and  early  summer,  with  the  fragrance  of  myriads  of 
flowers  and  scented  shrubs,  we  inhale  with  an  acme  of  enjoyment 
that  contrasts  inexpressibly  with  the  almost  stifling  and  unsavory 
warmth  of  a  liliputian  state-room  on  board  a  high-pressure  steamboat. 

The  bracing  air  will  soon  restore  the  loss  of  appetite  resulting 
from,  and  almost  consequent  upon,  the  excitement  created  by  the 
novel  circumstances  and  prospects  attending  us,  so  that  when  we 
arrive  at  the  first  public-house  for  a  change  of  horses,  and  break- 
fast is  announced,  it  is  not  by  any  means  an  unwelcome  sound. 
The  inner  man  being  allowed  about  fifteen  minutes  to  receive 
satisfaction,  and  a  fresh  relay  of  horses  provided,  we  are  soon  upon 
our  way  again.  At  the  "  twenty-seven  mile  house,"  we  again 
"  change"  horses.  By  this  time  the  day  and  the  travellers  all  be- 
come warm  together ;  and  as  the  cooling  land-breeze  dies  out, 
the  dust  begins  to  pour  in  by  every  chink  and  aperture,  so  that 
the  luxurious  enjoyments  of  the  early  morning  depart  in  the  same 
way  that  lawyers  are  said  to  get  to  heaven — by  degrees. 

At  "  Double  Springs"  we  are  informed  that  dinner  is  upon  the 
table,  and  at  the  low  charge  of  one  dollar  per  head,  the  hungry  may 
effectually  lose  their  appetites  and  their  tempers.  A  few  miles 
beyond  this  there  are  signs  of  mining  activity  apparent,  and  we 
soon  pass  through  the  prosperous  town  of  San  Andreas.  Here 
an  excellent  weekly  paper  is  published,  entitled,  The  San  Andreas 
Independent.  Those  who  have  never  before  looked  upon  the  mo- 
dus operandi  of  mining,  would  doubtless  like  to  linger  among  the 
long-toms  and  sluices,  the  tunnels,  and  shafts,  and  see  for  them- 
selves how  and  where  the  precious  metal  is  obtained ;  but  we 
must  not  linger  to  explain,  as  this  department  would  occupy  too 
much  time  and  space  fully  to  describe  it. 

Leaving  San  Andreas,  we  pass  through  the  mining  towns  of 
Angel's  Camp,  Vallecito  (here  we  saw  a  lump  of  pure  gold,  shaped 
like  a  large  potato,  which  weighed  twenty-six  pounds  two  ounces), 
Douglas  Flat,  and  arrive  at  Murphy's  Camp  about  dark.  Being 
well  tired,  we  give  cordial  welcome  to  the  many  comforts  of 
Sperrv's  Hotel,  and  arrange  for  an  early  start  for  the  Mammoth- 
Tree  Grove  in  the  morning. 


THE  MAMMOTH  TREES  OF  CALAVERAS. 


39 


ROAD  TO  THE  MAMMOTH-TREE  GROVE. 

Leaving  the  mining  town  of  Murphy's  Camp  behind,  we  cross 
the  "  Flat,"  and — about  half  a  mile  from  town — proceed,  upon  a 
good  carriage  road,  up  a  narrow  canon,  now  upon  this  side  of  the 
stream,  and  now  on  that,  as  the  hills  proved  favorable,  or  other- 
wise, for  the  construction  of  the  road.  If  our  visit  is  supposed  to 
be  in  spring  or  early  summer,  every  mountain  side,  even  to  the 
tops  of  the  ridges,  is  covered  with  flowers  and  flowering-shrubs  of 
great  variety  and  beauty ;  while,  on  either  hand,  groves  of  oaks 
and  pines  stand  as  shade-giving  guardians  of  personal  comfort  to 
the  dust-covered  traveller  on  a  sunny  day. 

As  we  continue  our  ascent  for  a  few  miles,  the  road  becomes 
more  undulating  and  gradual,  and  lying,  for  the  most  part,  on  the 
top,  or  gently  sloping  sides,  of  a  dividing  ridge ;  often  through 
dense  forests  of  tall,  magnificent  pines,  that  are  from  one  hundred 
and  seventy  to  two  hundred  and  twenty  feet  in  heighth,  slender, 
and  straight  as  an  arrow.  We  measured  one,  that  had  fallen,  that 
was  twenty  inches  in  diameter  at  the  base,  and  fourteen  and  a  half 
inches  in  diameter  at  the  distance  of  one  hundred  and  twenty -five 
feet  from  the  base.  The  ridges  being  nearly  clear  of  an  under- 
growth of  shrubbery,  and  the  trunks  of  the  trees,  for  fifty  feet 
upward,  or  more,  entirely  clear  of  branches,  the  eye  of  the 
traveller  can  wander,  delightedly,  for  a  long  distance,  among  the 
captivating  scenes  of  the  forest. 

At  different  distances  upon  the  route,  the  canal  of  the  Union 
Water  Company  winds  its  sinuous  way  on  the  top  or  around  the 
sides  of  the  ridge;  or  its  sparkling  contents  rush  impetuously 
down  the  water-furrowed  centre  of  a  ravine.  Here  and  there  an 
aqueduct,  or  cabin,  or  saw-mill,  gives  variety  to  an  ever-changing 
landscape. 

When  within  about  four  and  a  half  miles  of  the  Mammoth-Tree 
Grove,  the  surrounding  mountain  peaks  and  ridges  are  boldly 
visible.  Looking  south,  the  uncovered  head  of  Bald  Mountain 
silently  announces  its  solitude  and  distinctiveness ;  west,  the 
"  Bald  Mountain  range"  forms  a  continuous  girdle  to  the  horizon, 


40 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


extending  to  the  north  and  east,  where  the  snowy  tops  of  the 
Sierras  form  a  magnificent  back-ground  to  the  glorious  picture. 

While  we  have  been  thus  riding  and  admiring,  and  talking  and 
wondering,  and  musing  concerning  the  beautiful  scenes  we  have 
witnessed,  the  deepening  shadows  of  the  densely-timbered  forest 
we  are  entering,  by  the  awe  they  inspire — at  first  gently  and  im- 
perceptibly, then  rapidly  and  almost  to  be  felt — prepare  our  minds 
to  appreciate  the  imposing  grandeur  of  the  objects  we  are  about 
to  see,  just  as 

"  Coming  events  cast  their  shadows  before." 

The  gracefully-curling  smoke  from  the  chimneys  of  the  Big- 
Tree  Cottage,  that  is  now  visible  ;  the  inviting  refreshment  of  the 
inner  man  ;  the  luxurious  feeling  arising  from  bathing  the  hands 
and  temples  in  cold,  clear  water — especially  after  a  ride  or  walk — 
are  alike  disregarded.  One  thought,  one  feeling,  one  emotion — 
that  of  vastness,  sublimity,  profoundness,  pervades  the  whole  soul ; 
for  there 

"  The  giant  trees,  in  silent  majesty, 
Like  pillars,  stand  'neath  Heaven's  mighty  dome. 
'Twould  seem  that,  perch'd  upon  their  topmost  branch, 
With  outstretch'd  finger,  man  might  touch  the  stars ; 
Tet,  could  he  gain  that  height,  the  boundless  sk) 
Were  still  as  far  beyond  his  utmost  reach, 
As  from  the  burrowing  toilers  in  a  mine. 
Their  age  unknown,  into  what  depths  of  time 
Might  Fancy  wander  sportively,  and  deem 
Some  Monarch-Father  of  this  grove  set  forth 
His  tiny  shoot,  when  the  primeval  flood 
Receded  from  the  old  and  changed  earth  ; 
Perhaps,  coeval  with  Assyrian  kings, 
His  branches  in  dominion  spread ;  from  age 
To  age,  his  sapling  heirs  with  empires  grew. 
When  Time  those  patriarchs'  leafy  tresses  strew'd 
Upon  the  earth,  while  Art  and  Science  slept, 
And  ruthless  hordes  drove  back  Improvement's  stream, 
Their  sturdy  oaklings  throve,  and,  in  their  turn, 
Rose,  when  Columbus  gave  to  Spain  a  world. 
How  many  races,  savage  or  refined, 
Have  dwelt  beneath  their  shelter  1    Who  shall  say 


THE  MAMMOTH  TREES  OF  CALAVERAS. 


41 


VIEW  OF  "THE  BIG  TREE  COTTAGE"  HOTEL. 


(If  hands  irreverent  molest  them  not) 
But  they  may  shadow  mighty  cities,  reared 
E'en  at  their  roots,  in  centuries  to  come, 
Till,  with  the  "  Everlasting  Hills"  they  bow, 
When  "Time  shall  be  no  longer!"* 

Before  wandering  further  amid  the  wild  secluded  depths  of  this 
forest,  it  will  be  well  that  the  horse  and  his  rider  should  partake 
of  some  good  and  substantial  repast,  such  as  he  will  here  find 
provided,  inasmuch  as  it  is  not  always  wisest  or  best  to  explore 
the  wonderful  or  look  upon  the  beautiful  with  an  empty  stomach, 
especially  after  a  bracing  and  appetitive  ride  of  fifteen  miles. 
While  thus  engaged,  let  us  explain  some  matters  that  we  have 
reserved  for  this  occasion. 

*  Extract  from  Mrs.  Conner's  forthcoming  play  of  "The  Three  Brothers;  or,  the 
Mammoth  Grove  of  Calaveras  :  a  Legend  of  California." 


4§ 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


The  Mammoth-Tree  Grove, 
then,  is  situated  in  a  gently  slo- 
ping, and,  as  you  have  seen, 
heavily-timbered  valley,  on  the 
divide  or  ridge  between  the  San 
Antonio  branch  of  the  Calaveras 
River  and  the  north  fork  of  the 
Stanislaus  River ;  in  lat.  38°  north, 
long.  120°  10'  west ;  at  an  eleva- 
tion of  2,300  feet  above  Murphy's 
Camp,  and  4,370  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea ;  at  a  distance 
of  ninety-seven  miles  from  Sac- 
ramento City,  and  eighty-seven 
from  Stockton. 

When  specimens  of  this  tree, 
with  its  cones  and  foliage,  were 
sent  to  England  for  examination, 
Professor  Lindley,  an  eminent 
English  botanist,  considered  it 
as  forming  a  new  genus,  and  ac- 
cordingly named  it  (doubtless 
with  the  best  intentions,  but  still 
unfairly)  "  Wellingtonia  gigan- 
tea ;"  but  through  the  examina- 
tions of  Mr.  Lobb,  a  gentleman 
of  rare  botanical  attainments, 
who  has  spent  several  years  in 
California,  devoting  himself  to 
this  interesting,  and,  to  him,  fa- 
vorite branch  of  study,  it  is  de- 
cided to  belong  to  the  Taxodium 
family,  and  must  be  referred  to 
the  old  genus  Sequoia  sempervi- 
rens ;  and  consequently,  as  it  is 
not  a  new  genus,  and  as  it  has 


THE  MAMMOTH  TREES  OF  CALAVERAS. 


43 


been  properly  examined  and  classified,  it  is  now  known,  only, 
among  scientific  men,  as  the  Sequoia  gigantea  (sempervirens)  and 
not  "  Wellingtonia,"  or,  as  some  good  and  laudably  patriotic  souls 
would  have  it,  to  prevent  the  English  from  stealing  American 
thunder,  "Washingt  >nia  gigantea." 

Within  an  area  of  fifty  acres,  there  are  one  hundred  and  three 
trees  of  a  goodly  size,  twenty  of  which  exceed  twenty-five  feet  in 
diameter  at  the  base,  and,  consecpiently,  are  about  seventy -five  feet 
in  circumference ! 


WORKMEN  ENGAGED  IN  FELLING  T1IE  MAMMOTH  TREE. 


But,  the  repast  over,  let  us  first  walk  upon  the  "  Big-Tree 
Stump"  adjoining  the  cottage.  You  see  it  is  perfectly  smooth, 
sound,  and  level.  Upon  this  stump,  however  incredible  it  may 
seem,  on  the  4th  of  July,  thirty-two  persons  were  engaged  in 
dancing  four  sets  of  cotillions  at  one  time,  without  suffering  any 
inconvenience  whatever ;  and  besides  these,  there  were  musi- 
cians and  lookers-on.  Across  the  solid  wood  of  this  stump,  five 
and  a  half  feet  from  the  ground  (now  the  bark  is  removed,  which 
was  from  fifteen  to  eighteen  inches  in  thickness),  it  measures 


4A 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


twenty-five  feet,  and  with  the  bark,  twenty-eight  feet.  Think  for 
a  moment ;  the  stump  of  a  tree  exceeding  nine  yards  in  diameter, 
and  sound  to  the  very  centre. 

This  tree  employed  five  men  for  twenty-two  days  in  felling  it — 
not  by  chopping  it  down,  but  by  boring  it  off  with  pump  augers. 
After  the  stem  was  fairly  severed  from  the  stump,  the  uprightness 
of  the  tree,  and  breadth  of  its  base,  sustained  it  in  its  position. 
To  accomplish  the  feat  of  throwing  it  over,  about  two  and  a  half 
days  of  the  twenty-two  were  spent  in  inserting  wedges,  and 
driving  them  in  with  the  butts  of  trees,  until,  at  last,  the  noble 
monarch  of  the  forest  was  forced  to  tremble,  and  then  to  fall,  after 
braving  "  the  battle  and  the  breeze"  of  nearly  three  thousand 
winters.  In  our  estimation,  it  was  a  sacrilegious  act ;  although 
it  is  possible,  that  the  exhibition  of  the  bark,  among  the  unbe- 
lievers of  the  eastern  part  of  our  continent,  and  of  Europe,  may 
have  convinced  all  the  "Thomases"  living,  that  we  have  great 
facts  in  California,  that  must  be  believed,  sooner  or  later.  This 
is  the  only  palliating  consideration  with  us  in  this  act  of  dese- 
cration 


VIEW  OF  DOUBLE  BOWLING-ALLEY  ON  TRUNK  OF  BIG  TREE. 


This  noble  tree  was  three  hundred  and  two  feet  in  height,  and 
ninety-six  feet  in  circumference  at  the  ground.  Upon  the  upper 
part  of  the  prostate  trunk  is  constructed  a  long  double  bowling- 


THE  MAMMOTH  TREES  OF 


CALAVERAS. 


45 


alley,  where  the  athletic  sport  of  playing  bowls  may  afford  a 
pastime  and  change  to  the  visitor. 

Now  let  us  walk,  among  the  giant  shadows  of  the  forest,  to 
another  of  these  wonders — the  largest  tree  now  standing ;  which, 
from  its  immense  size,  two  breast-like  protuberances  on  one  side, 
and  the  number  of  small  trees  of  the  same  class  adjacent,  has  been 
named  "The  Mother  of  the  Forest.'"  In  the  summer  of  1854,  the 
bark  was  stripped  from  this  tree  by  Mr.  George  Gale,  for  pur- 
poses of  exhibition  in  the  East,  to  the  height  of  one  hundred 
and  sixteen  feet ;  and  now  measures  in  circumference,  without 
the  bark,  at  the  base,  eighty-four  feet ;  twenty  feet  from  base, 
sixty-nine  feet ;  seventy  feet  from  base,  forty-three  feet  six  inches  ; 
one  hundred  and  sixteen  feet  from  base,  and  up  to  the  bark, 
thirty-nine  feet  six  inches.  The  full  circumference  at  base,  in- 
cluding bark,  was  ninety  feet.  Its  height  is  three  hundred  and 
twenty-one  feet.  The  average  thickness  of  bark  was  eleven 
inches,  although  in  places  it  was  about  two  feet.  This  tree  is 
estimated  to  contain  five  hundred  and  thirty-seven  thousand  feet 
of  sound  inch  lumber.  To  the  first  branch  it  is  one  hundred 
and  thirty-seven  feet.  The  small  black  marks  upon  the  tree 
indicate  points  where  two  and  a  half  inch  auger  holes  were  bored, 
into  which  rounds  were  inserted,  by  which  to  ascend  and  descend, 
while  removing  the  bark.  At  different  distances  upward,  especi- 
ally at  the  top,  numerous  dates,  and  names  of  visitors,  have  been 
cut.  It  is  contemplated  to  construct  a  circular  stairway  around 
this  tree.  When  the  bark  was  being  removed,  a  young  man  fell 
from  the  scaffolding — or,  rather,  out  of  a  descending  noose — at  a 
distance  of  seventy-nine  feet  from  the  ground,  and  escaped  with  a 
broken  limb.  We  were  within  a  few  yards  of  him  when  he  fell, 
and  were  agreeably  surprised  to  discover  that  he  had  not  broken 
his  neck. 

A  short  distance  from  the  above  lies  the  prostrate  and  majestic 
body  of  the  "  Father  of  the  Forest,"  the  largest  tree  of  the  entire 
group,  half-buried  in  the  soil.  This  tree  measures  in  circumfer- 
ence, at  the  roots,  one  hundred  and  ten  feet.  It  is  two  hundred 
feet  to  the  first  branch  ;  the  whole  of  which  is  hollow,  and  through 


46 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


VIEW  OF  THE  "FA THEE  OF  THE  FOREST." 


which  a  person  can  walk  erect.  By  the  trees  that  were  broken 
off  when  this  tree  bowed  its  proud  head,  in  its  fall,  it  is  estimated 
that,  when  standing,  it  could  not  be  less  than  four  hundred  and 
thirty-five  feet  in  height.  Three  hundred  feet  from  the  roots, 
and  where  it  was  broken  off  by  striking  against  another  large 
tree,  it  is  eighteen  feet  in  diameter.  Around  this  tree  stand  the 
graceful,  yet  giant  trunks  of  numerous  other  trees,  which  form  a 
family  circle,  and  make  this  the  most  imposing  scene  in  the  whole 
grove.  From  its  immense  size,  and  the  number  of  trees  near, 
doubtless  originated  the  name.  Near  its  base  is  a  never-failing 
spring  of  cold  and  delicious  water. 

Let  us  not  linger  here  too  long,  but  pass  on  to  "The  Husband 
and  Wife" — a  graceful  pair  of  trees  that  are  leaning,  with  ap- 
parent affection,  against  each  other.  Both  of  these  are  of  the 
same  size,  and  measure  in  circumference,  at  the  base,  about  sixty 
feet ;  and  in  height  are  about  two  hundred  and  fifty-two  feet. 

A  short  distance  further  is  "  The  Burnt  Tree ;"  which  is  pros- 
trate, and  hollow  from  numerous  burnings — in  which  a  person  can 
ride  on  horseback  for  sixty  feet.  The  estimated  height  of  this 
tree,  when  standing,  was  three  hundred  and  thirty  feet,  and  its 
circumference  ninety-seven  feet.  It  now  measures  across  the 
roots  thirty-nine  feet  six  inches. 

"  Hercules,"  another  of  these  giants,  is  ninety -five  feet  in  cir- 
cumference, and  three  hundred  and  twenty  feet  high.  On  the 
trunk  of  this  tree  is  cut  the  name  of  "  I.  M.  Wooster,  June,  1850  ;" 


THE  MAMMOTH  TREES  OF  CALAVERAS. 


47 


so  tliat  it  is  possible  this  person  may  some  day  claim  precedence 
to  Mr.  Dowd,  in  this  great  discovery.  At  all  events,  it  was 
through  the  latter  named,  that  the  world  bcame  acquainted  with 
the  grove. 

There  are  many  other  trees  of  this  grove  that  claim  a  passing 
notice  ;  but,  inasmuch  as  they  very  much  resemble  each  other,  we 
shall  only  mention  them  briefly. 


THE  CONE,  AND  FOLIAGE  OF  THE  MAMMOTH  TREES — FULL  SIZE. 


The  "  Hermit,"  a  lonely  old  fellow,  is  three  hundred  and 
eighteen  feet  in  height,  and  sixty  feet  in  circumference ;  exceed- 
ingly straight  and  well-formed. 


48 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


The  "Old  Maid"  —  a  stooping,  broken-topped,  and  forlorn- 
looking  spinster  of  tlie  big-tree  family — is  two  hundred  and 
sixty-one  feet  in  height,  and  fifty-nine  feet  in  circumference. 

As  a  fit  companion  to  the  above,  though  at  a  respectful  distance 
from  it,  stands  the  dejected-looking  "  Old  Bachelor."  This  tree, 
as  lonely  and  as  solitary  as  the  former,  is  one  of  the  roughest,  bark- 
rent  specimens  of  the  big  trees  to  be  found.  In  size  it  rather  has 
the  advantage  of  the  "  Old  Maid,"  being  about  two  hundred  and 
ninety-eight  feet  in  height,  and  sixty  feet  in  circumference. 

Near  to  the  "  Old  Bachelor"  is  the  "  Pioneer's  Cabin,"  the  top 
of  which  is  broken  off  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  from  the 
ground.  This  tree  measures  thirty -three  feet  in  diameter ;  but,  as 
it  is  hollow,  and  uneven  in  its  circumference,  its  average  size  will 
not  be  quite  equal  to  that. 

The  "  Siamese  Twins,"  as  their  name  indicates,  with  one  large 
stem  at  the  ground,  form  a  double  tree  about  forty-one  feet 
upward.    These  are  each  three  hundred  feet  in  height. 

Near  to  them  stands  the  "  Guardian,"  a  fine-looking  old  tree, 
three  hundred  and  twenty  feet  in  height,  by  eighty-one  feet  in  cir- 
cumference. 

The  "  Mother  and  Son"  form  another  beautiful  sight,  as  side  by 
side  they  stand.  The  former  is  three  hundred  and  fifteen  feet  in 
height,  and  the  latter  three  hundred  and  two  feet.  Unitedly, 
their  circumference  is  ninety-three  feet. 

The  "  Horseback  Ride"  is  an  old,  broken,  and  long  jjrostrate 
trunk,  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  length,  hollow  from  one  end 
to  the  other,  and  in  which,  to  the  distance  of  seventy-two  feet,  a 
person  can  ride  on  horseback.  At  the  narrowest  place  inside,  this 
tree  is  twelve  feet  high. 

"  Uncle  Tom's  Cabin"  is  another  fanciful  name,  given  to  a  tree 
that  is  hollow,  and  in  which  twenty-five  persons  can  be  seated 
comfortably  (not,  as  a  friend  at  our  elbow  suggests  in  each  other's 
laps,  perhaps !)  This  tree  is  three  hundred  and  five  feet  in  height, 
and  ninety-one  feet  in  circumference. 

The  "  Pride  of  the  Forest"  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  trees  of 
this  wonderful  grove.    It  is  well-shaped,  straight,  and  sound ; 


49 


THE  MAMMOTH  TREES  OF  CAE  A  V  ERAS. 


and,  although  not  quite  as  large  as  some  of  the  others,  it  is,  never- 
theless, a  noble-looking  member  of  the  grove,  two  hundred  and 
seventy-five  feet  in  height,  and  sixty  feet  in  circumference. 


1HE  "THREE  GRACES." 


50 


SCENKS  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


The  "  Beauty  of  the  Forest"  is  similar  in  shape  to  the  above, 
and  measures  three  hundred  and  seven  feet  in  height,  and  sixty- 
five  feet  in  circumference. 

The  "Two  Guardsmen"  stand  by  the  roadside,  at  the  entrance 
of  the  "  clearing,"  and  near  the  cottage.  They  seem  to  be  the 
sentinels  of  the  valley.  In  height,  these  are  three  hundred  feet ; 
and  in  circumference,  one  is  sixty-five  feet,  and  the  other  sixty- 
nine  feet. 

Next — though  last  in  being  mentioned,  not  least  in  gracefulness 
and  beauty — stand  the  "Three  Sisters" — by  some  called  the 
"  Three  Graces" — one  of  the  most  beautiful  groups  (if  not  the 
most  beautiful)  of  the  whole  grove.  Together,  at  their  base,  they 
measure  in  circumference  ninety-two  feet ;  and  in  height  they  are 
nearly  equal,  and  each  measures  nearly  two  hundred  and  ninety- 
five  feet. 

Many  of  the  largest  of  these  trees  have  been  deformed  and 
otherwise  injured,  by  the  numerous  and  large  fires  that  have 
swept  with  desolating  fury  over  this  forest,  at  different  periods. 
But  a  small  portion  of  decayed  timber,  of  the  Taxodium  genus, 
can  be  seen.  Like  other  varieties  of  the  same  species,  it  is  less 
subject  to  decay,  even  when  fallen  and  dead,  than  other  woods. 

Respecting  the  age  of  this  grove,  there  has  been  but  one  opinion 
among  the  best  informed  botanists,  which  is  this — that  each  con- 
centric circle  is  the  growth  of  one  year;  and  as  nearly  three  thou- 
sand concentric  circles  can  be  counted  in  the  stump  of  the  fallen 
tree,  it  is  correct  to  conclude  that  these  trees  are  nearly  three  thou- 
sand years  old.  "This,"  says  the  Gardener's  Calendar,  "may 
very  well  be  true,  if  it  does  not  grow  above  two  inches  in  diame- 
ter in  twenty  years,  which  we  believe  to  be  the  fact." 

Coidd  those  magnificent  and  venerable  forest  giants  of  Calaveras 
county  be  gifted  with  a  descriptive  historical  tongue,  we  could, 
doubtless,  learn  of  many  wonderful  changes  that  have  taken  place 
in  California  within  the  last  three  thousand  years ! 


THE  OAVES  OF  CALAVERAS  COUNTY. 


51 


CHAPTEE  II. 
THE  CAVES  OF  CALAVERAS  COUNTY. 

"  Nature — faint  emblem  of  Omnipotence  ! 
Shaped  by  His  hand — the  shadow  of  His  light : 
The  veil  in  which  He  wraps  His  majesty, 
And  through  whose  mantling  folds  He  deigns  to  show, 
Of  His  mysterious,  awful  attributes 
And  dazzling  splendors,  all  man's  feeble  thought 
Can  grasp  unerushed,  or  vision  bear  unquenched." 

Street's  Poems. 

After  the  visitor  lias  lingered  long  among  the  scenes  we  have 
just  described,  he  will  still  feel  that  he 

"  Could  pass  days 
Stretched  in  the  shade  of  those  old  cedar  trees, 
Watching  the  sunshine  like  a  blessing-  fall — 
The  breeze  like  music  wandering  o'er  the  boughs, 
Each  tree  a  natural  harp — each  different  leaf 
A  different  note,  blent  in  one  vast  thanksgiving.'' 

Yet  he  may  entertain  a  desire  to  look  upon  other  wonders  that 

"  Are  but  parts  of  a  stupendous  whole," 

and  pay  a  visit  to  the  natural  caves.  These  are  situated  on 
McKinney's  Humbug,  a  tributary  of  the  Calaveras  River,  about 
fourteen  miles  west  of  the  mammoth  trees,  sixteen  miles  south  by 
the  trail — from  Moquelumne  Hill,  seven  miles  north  from  Murphy's 
Camp,  nine  miles  east  of  San  Andreas,  near  the  mouth  of  O'Neil's 
Creek. 

They  were  discovered  accidentally  in  October,  1850,  by  Captain 
Taylor,  who,  with  others,  was  engaged  in  mining  on  this  creek,  and 
who,  having  finished  their  mid-day  repast,  ^vere  spending  the  inter- 


52 


SCENKS  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


val,  before  resuming  their  afternoon's  work,  in  snooting  at  a  mark 
near  the  back  of  their  cabin.  Mr.  Taylor,  having  just  fired  his 
rifle,  proceeded  to  examine  the  mark,  and,  having  hit  the  centre, 
proposed  that  it  should  be  placed  at  a  greater  distance  than  they 
had  ever  before  tried  their  skill ;  and  was  looking  out  for  a  tree 
upon  which  to  place  it,  when  he  saw  a  hole  among  the  rocks.  He 
immediately  went  to  it,  and,  seeing  that  the  aperture  extended  into 
the  mountain  for  some  distance,  he  called  to  his  companions,  and 
they  conjointly  commenced  to  explore  it. 

But  let  us  not  keep  the  reader  waiting  ;  and  as  the  following 
excellent  description  from  the  Pacific  is  so  truthfully  descriptive 
of  this  curiosity,  we  transcribe  it  for  this  work. 

"  The  entrance  is  around  the  jutting  angle  of  a  ledge  of  rocks, 
which  hides  the  small  mining  town  adjacent  from  sight. 


THE  ENTRANCE. 


THE  MOUTH  OF  THE  CAVE. 


"  Only  the  house  of  the  proprietor  is  to  be  seen.  The  country 
around  is  wild  and  romantic.  Provided  with  adamantine  candles, 
we  entered  through  a  small  doorway  which  had  been  blasted  out 
to  sufficient  size.  Thence  we  crept  along  twenty -five  or  thirty 
feet,  threading  our  way  through  an  irregular  and  difficult  passage, 
at  first  descending  raptdly,  but  afterward  level.    Sometimes  we 


THE  CAVES  OF  CALAVERAS  COUNTY.  53 

were  forced  to  stoop,  and  at  others  to  bend  the  body  in  accordance 
with  the  seam  of  the  rocks  which  constitute  the  passage.  Sud- 
denly we  emerged  into  a  large  vault  or  room,  about  sixty  feet  in 
length  by  twenty  in  breadth,  with  an  irregular  roof,  running  up 
in  some  places  thirty  feet.    This  room  is  called 

THE  COUNCIL  CHAMBER. 

"The  walls  are  dark,  rough,  and  solid,  rather  than  beautiful. 
Descending  a  little  to  the  south-west,  we  again  made  our  way 
through  a  long,  low  passage,  which  led  to  another  room  of  half 
the  size  of  the  Council  Chamber.  Rising  from  the  floor  of  this 
room,  by  another  narrow  passage,  we  soon  came  into  a  third  large 
room,  of  irregular  construction.  The  roof  ascends,  until  lost  to 
sight  in  perfect  darkness ;  here,  as  far  up  as  the  eye,  assisted  by 
the  dim  taper,  can  reach,  the  lime  depositions  present  a  perfect 
resemblance  to  a  vast  cataract  of  waters  rushing  from  an  incon- 
ceivable height,  in  a  perfect  sheet  of  foam,  leaping  from  one  great 
shelf  of  jutting  rock  down  to  others,  onward,  widening  as  tkv 
near,  in  exact  perspective.    This  room  is  called 

THE  CATARACT. 

"  And  well  does  it  deserve  the  name.  Next  we  descended  a 
short  distance,  by  another  passage,  and  entered  a  small,  round 
room,  in  the  centre  of  the  roof  of  which  runs  up  a  lofty  opening, 
6ixty  feet  high,  of  singular  appearance.    This  apartment  is  called 

THE  CATHEDRAL. 

"  Turning  back  by  the  Cataract,  we  passed  an  easy  way  by  a 
deep  well  of  water  upon  the  left,  and  very  singular  small  pools  or 
reservoirs  on  the  right.  Leaving  these,  we  soon  entered  a  spa- 
cious room,  full  one  hundred  feet  square,  and  of  fair  proportionate 
height.  Through  another  low  opening,  we  entered  yet  another 
great  room,  near  the  centre  of  which  stands  a  large,  dark  struc- 
ture, the  perfect  likeness  of  a  full-robed  Roman  Bishop,  minus  the 
head ;  whence  the  name  for  the  room,  the 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


bishop's  palace. 
"  Descending  through  another  small  opening,  we  entered  a 
room  beautifully  ornamented  with  pendents  from  the  roof,  white 
as  the  whitest  feldspar,  and  of  every  possible  form.  Some  like 
garments  hung  in  a  wardrobe,  every  fold  and  seam  complete; 
others  like  curtains,  with  portions  of  columns,  half-way  to  the 
floor,  fluted  and  scolloped  for  unknown  purposes ;  while  innumer- 
able spear-shaped  stalactites,  of  different  sizes  and  lengths,  hung 
from  all  parts ;  giving  a  beauty  and  splendor  to  the  whole  ap- 
pearance surpassing  description.  Once,  as  the  light  was  borne 
up  along  a  glorious  fairy  stairway,  and  back  behind  solid  pillars 
of  clear  deposits,  and  the  reflected  rays  glanced  through  the 
myriads  of  varying  forms,  the  whole — pillars,  curtains,  pendents, 
and  carved  work,  white  as  snow,  and  translucent  as  crystal — glis- 
tened and  shone,  and  sparkled  with  a  glory  that  surpassed  in 
splendor  all  that  we  had  seen  in  art,  or  read  in  fable.  This  is 
called 

THE  BRIDAL  CHAMBER. 


VIEW  OF  THE  BRIDAL  C1IAMISEK. 


THE  CAVES  OF  CALAVEKAS  COUNTY. 


"  Immediately  at  the  back  of  this,  and  connected  with  it  by  dif- 
ferent openings,  is  another  room,  now  called 

MUSICAL  HALL. 

"  It  is  so  called  from  the  fact,  that,  on  one  side,  suspended  from 
a  singular  rock,  that  has  the  character  of  a  musical  sounding- 
board,  hang  a  large  number  of  stalactites,  arranged  in  a  line  very 
large  at  one  end,  and  gradually  increasing  in  size  toward  the 
other,  so  that,  if  with  a  rod  you  strike  the  pendents  properly,  all 
the  musical  tones,  from  a  common  bass  to  a  very  high  key,  can 
be  produced  in  perfection,  ringing  loud  and  clear  through  the 
halls,  as  a  well-toned  instrument. 

"  Here  the  present  exploration  of  the  cave  terminates,  at  the 
distance  of  about  one-sixth  of  a  mile  from  the  entrance." 

THE  HOTEL. 

In  1853  it  was  taken  up,  under  a  pre-emption  right,  by  Messrs. 
Magee  and  Angel,  who  erected  a  large  and  substantial  hotel  ad- 
joining the  cave,  for  the  convenience  of  the  public,  at  a  cost  of 
about  four  thousand  five  hundred  dollars.  This  hotel  is  com- 
modious and  comfortable,  and  we  shall  long  remember  the  enjoy- 
ment of  our  visit,  and  the  personal  attention  we  received  from  the 
agreeable  and  enterprising  proprietors. 


VIEW  OF  THE  HOTEL  AT  THE  CAVE. 


56 


SCENKS   IN  CALIFORNIA. 


ML 


VIEW  OF  THE  UPPER  SIDE  OP  UPPER  NATURAL  BRIDGE. 


CHAPTEE  III. 

THE  NATURAL  BRIDGES  OF  CALAVERAS  COUNTY. 

"  Here  the  great  Architect 
Did  with  curious  skill  a  pile  erect 
Of  carved  marble." 

Carew. 

These  bridges  are  situated  on  Cayote  Creek,  about  half  way  be- 
tween Valicita  and  McLane's  Ferry,  on  the  Stanislaus  River,  and 
hold  a  high  rank  among  the  varied  natural  objects  of  interest  and 


THE  NATURAL  BRIDGES  OF  CALAVERAS  COUNTY. 


57 


beauty  abounding  in  California.  The  entire  water  of  Cayote 
Creek  runs  beneath  these  bridges.  The  bold,  rocky,  and  precip- 
itous banks  of  the  stream,  both  above  and  below  the  bridges,  pre- 
sent a  counterpart  of  wild  scenery,  in  perfect  keeping  with 
the  strange  beauty  and  picturesque  grandeur  of  their  interior 
formation. 

THE  UPPER  BRIDGE. 

Approaching  the  upper  bridge  from  the  east,  along  the  stream, 
the  entrance  beneath  presents  the  appearance  of  a  noble  Gothic 
arch  of  massive  stone-work,  thirty-two  feet  in  height  above  the 
water,  and  twenty-five  feet  in  width  at  the  abutments ;  while  the 
rock  and  earth  above,  supported  by  the  arch,  are  thirty  or  more 
feet  in  thickness,  and  overgrown  to  some  extent  with  trees  and 
shrubbery. 

Passing  under  the  arch,  along  the  border  of  the  creek,  the  walls, 
with  their  almost  perfectly  formed,  though  pointed  arch,  maintain 
their  width  and  elevation  ;  but  with  here  and  there  an  irregularity, 
serving,  however,  only  to  heighten  the  interest  of  the  beautiful 
scene  presented.  Along  the  roof,  or  arch,  hang  innumerable  stal- 
actites, like  opaque  icicles,  but  solid  as  the  lime-stone  or  marble 
of  which  they  are  formed. 

As  we  advance,  the  width  of  the  arch  increases  to  nearly  forty 
feet,  and  in  its  height  to  fifty  feet ;  and  here  it  really  seems  as 
though  nature,  in  her  playful  moments,  determined  for  once,  in 
her  own  rude  way,  to  mock  the  more  elaborately-worked  objects 
of  art.  Yet,  as  more  in  accordance  with  reality,  we  think  that 
from  such  fine  natural  formation,  the  noble  Gothic  order  of  archi- 
tecture was  first  suggested. 

Here  the  spacious  archway  (with  a  little  aid  from  the  imagina- 
tion) is  made  to  resemble  an  immense  cathedral,  with  its  vaulted 
arches  supported  by  innumerable  columns  along  the  sides,  with 
here  and  there  a  jutting  portion,  as  though  an  attempt  had  been 
made  to  rough-hew  an  altar  and  corridor  with  massive  steps 
thereto ;  while  stalactites,  springing  from  the  bottom  and  sides, 
would  appear  like  waxen  candles,  ready  to  be  lighted,  but  for  the 
muddy  sediment  which  has  formed  upon  them. 
3* 


58 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


Nor  is  this  all,  for  near  the  foot  of  the  altar  is  a  natural  basin 
of  pure  water,  clear  as  crystal,  as  though  purposely  for  a  baptismal 
font. 

Numerous  other  formations,  some  of  them  peculiarly  grotesque, 
and  others  beautiful,  adorn  the  sides  and  roof  of  this  truly  mag- 
nificent subterranean  temple ;  one  of  these,  the  "  rock  cascade,"  is 
a  beautiful  feature,  as  it  bears  a  striking  resemblance  to  that  which 
would  result  from  the  instantaneous  freezing,  to  perfect  solidity, 
of  a  stream  of  water  rolling  down  the  rocky  sides  of  the  cavernous 
formation.  Others  resemble  urns  and  basins,  and  all  formed  from 
the  action  of,  and  are  ever  filled  to  their  brims  with,  clear  cold 
water,  as  it  trickles  from  the  rocks  above. 


LOWER  SIDE  OF  UPPER  NATURAL  BRIDGE. 

Approaching  the  lower  section  of  this  immense  arch,  its  form 
becomes  materially  changed,  increasing  in  width,  while  the  roof, 
becoming  more  flattened,  is  brought  down  to  within  five  feet  of 


TIIE  NATURAL  BRIDGES  OF  CALAVKKAS  COUNTY. 


50 


the  water  of  the  creek.  The  entire  distance  through  or  under  this 
vast  natural  bridge  is  about  ninety-five  yards. 

THE  LOWER  BRIDGE. 

Nearly  half  a  mile  down  the  creek  from  the  bridge  described, 
is  another,  with  its  arched  entrance  differing  but  little  from  the 
one  already  described,  in  size,  but  the  form  of  the  arch  is  quite 
different,  being  more  flattened  and  broader  at  the  top.  Advanc- 
ing beneath  its  wide-spreading  arch,  and  passing  another  beauti- 
ful fount  of  water,  issuing  from  a  low,  broad  basin,  wrought  by 
nature's  own  hand,  we  arrive  at  a  point  where  a  roof  and  sup- 
porting walls  present  the  appearance  of  a  magnificent  rotunda, 
or  arched  dome,  sixty  feet  in  width,  but  with  a  height  of  only 
fifteen  feet. 


THE  CPPJSB  SLUE  OF  LOWER  NATUHAL  B1UDGE. 


Here,  too,  are  numberless  stalactites,  hanging  like  opaque 
icicles  from  above,  while  the  rocky  floor,  where  the  creek  does 
not  receive  the  trickling  water  from  above,  is  studded  thick  with 


60 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


stalagmites  of  curious  and  beautiful  forms.  The  length,  of  this 
arch  is  about  seventy  yards. 

These  natural  bridges  give  to  the  locality  an  interest  exceeded 
by  few  in  the  State ;  they  form  the  most  remarkable  natural  tun- 
nels known  in  the  world,  serving  as  they  do  for  the  passage  of  a 
considerable  stream  through  them. 

The  entire  rock  formation  of  the  vicinity  is  limestone,  and  vari- 
ous are  the  conjectures  relative  to  the  first  formation  of  these 
natural  bridges  or  tunnels.  Some  believing  them  to  have  been 
formed  by  the  rocky  deposit  contained  in,  and  precipitated  by, 
the  water  of  countless  springs,  issuing  from  the  banks  of  the 
creek,  that,  gradually  accumulating  and  projecting,  at  length 
united  the  two  sides,  forming  these  great  arched  passages. 
Others  believe  that,  as  these  bridges  are  covered  many  feet  in 
depth  with  rock  and  earth,  these  natural  tunnels  were  but  so 
many  subterranean  passages  or  caverns,  formed,  we  will  not  at- 
tempt to  say  how,  but  as  other  caverns  are,  or  have  been,  in  nearly 
all  limestone  formations  ;  for  were  these  subterranean  passages  to 
exist  in  the  adjoining  hills  or  mountains,  with  either  one  or  two 
arches  of  entrance,  they  would  be  called  caverns.  But  by  what- 
ever freak  of  nature  formed,  they  are  objects  of  peculiar  interest, 
and  will  well  repay  the  summer  rambler  among  the  mines  and 
mountains  the  trouble  of  visiting  them.  Our  wonder  is  that  so 
few,  comparatively,  have  visited  these  singular  specimens  of 
nature's  architecture. 


THE  YO-SEMITE  VALLEY. 


61 


CHAPTER  IV. 
THE  YO-SEMITE  VALLEY. 

"  Where  rose  the  mountains,  there  to  him  were  friends ; 

Where  rolled  the  ocean,  thereon  was  his  home ; 
Where  a  blue  sky  and  glowing  clime  extends, 

He  had  the  passion  and  the  power  to  roam ; 
The  desert,  forest,  cavern,  breakers'  foam, 

Were  unto  him  companionship." 

Childe  Harold. 

"  If  thou  art  worn  and  hard  beset 
With  sorrows,  that  thou  wouldst  forget ; 
If  thou  wouldst  read  a  lesson  that  will  keep 
Thy  heart  from  fainting,  and  thy  soul  from  sleep — 
Go  to  the  woods  and  hills." 

LOXGFELLOW. 

The  reader  knows  as  well  as  we  do,  that,  although  it  may  be 
of  but  little  consequence  in  point  of  fact,  whether  a  spirit  of 
romance,  the  love  of  the  grand  and  beautiful  in  scenery,  the  sug- 
gestions or  promptings  of  a  fascinating  woman — be  she  friend, 
sweetheart,  or  wife — the  desire  for  change,  the  want  of  recrea- 
tion, or  the  necessity  of  a  restoration  and  recuperation  of  an  over- 
tasked physical  or  mental  organization,  or  both — whatever  may  be 
the  agent  that  first  gives  birth  to  the  wish  for,  or  the  love  of  travel; 
when  the  mind  is  thoroughly  made  up,  and  the  committee  of  ways 
and  means  reports  itself  financially  prepared  to  undertake  the 
pleasurable  task — in  order  to  enjoy  it  with  luxurious  zest,  we 
must  resolve  upon  four  things :  first,  to  leave  the  "  peck  of 
troubles,"  and  a  few  thrown  in,  entirely  behind  ;  second,  to  have 


62 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


none  but  good,  suitable, 
and  genial-hearted  com- 
panions ;  third,  a  suffi- 
cient supply  of  per- 
sonal patience,  good  hu- 
mor, forbearance,  and 
creature  comforts  for 
all  emergencies  ;  and, 
fourth,  not  to  be  in  a 
hurry.  To  these,  both 
one  and  all,  who  have 
ever  visited  the  Yo- 
Semite  Valley,  we 
know  will  say — 
Amen. 


THE  YO-SEMITE  WATERFALL,  TWO  THOUSAND  FIVE  HUNDRED  AND  FIFTY  FEET  IN  HEIGHT. 
From  a  Photograph  by  C.  L.  Weed. 


As  there  are  but  few  countries  that  possess  more  of  the  beauti- 
ful and  wildly  picturesque  than  California,  it  seems  to  us  a  sin  to 
neglect  to  cultivate  the  knowledge  and  inspiration  of  it.  Especi- 


THE  YO-SEMITE  VALLEY. 


63 


ally  as  its  towering  and  pine-covered  mountains ;  its  wide-spread 
vallies,  carpeted  with  flowers  ;  its  leaping  waterfalls  ;  its  foaming 
cataracts ;  its  rushing  rivers ;  its  placid  lakes ;  its  evergreen  and 
densely  timbered  forests  ;  its  gently  rolling  hills,  covered  with 
blooming  shrubs,  and  trees,  and  wild  flowers,  give  a  voiceless  invi- 
tation to  the  traveller  to  look  upon  her  and  admire. 

Whether  one  sits  with  religious  veneration  at  the  foot  of  Mount 
Shasta,  or  cools  himself  in  the  refreshing  shade  of  the  natural 
caves  and  bridges,  or  walks  beneath  the  giant  shadows  of  the 
mammoth  trees,  or  stands  in  awe  looking  upon  the  frowning  and 
pine-covered  heights  of  the  Yo-Semite  Valley,  he  feels  that 

"A  thing  of  beauty  is  a  joy  forever," 

and  that  the  Californian's  home  will  compare  in  picturesque  mag- 
nificence with  that  of  any  other  land. 

In  later  years,  other  employments  and  enjoyments  have  been 
entertained  as  worthy  the  attention  of  the  residents  and  visitors  of 
this  coast,  than  money -making.  Now,  there  are  many  who  throng 
the  highway  of  elevating  and  refining  pleasure,  in  spring  and 
summer,  to  feast  the  eye  and  mind  upon  the  beautiful.  In  the 
hope,  though  humbly,  of  fostering  this  feeling,  we  continue  our 
sketches  of  the  most  remarkable  and  interesting,  among  which 
doubtless  stands  the  great  Yo-Semite  Valley. 

THE  CIRCUMSTANCES  THAT  LED  TO  ITS  DISCOVERY. 

The  early  California  resident  will  remember,  that  during  the 
spring  and  summer  of  1850,  much  dissatisfaction  existed  among 
the  white  settlers  and  miners  on  the  Merced,  San  Joaquin,  Chow- 
chilla,  and  Frezno  Rivers  and  their  tributaries,  on  account  of  the 
frequent  robberies  committed  upon  them  by  the  Chook-chan-cie, 
Po-to-en-cie,  Noot-cho,  Po-ho-ne-chee,  Ilo-na-chee,  Chow-chilla, 
and  other  Indian  tribes  on  the  head  waters  of  those  streams.  The 
frequent  repetition  of  their  predatory  forays  having  been  attended 
with  complete  success,  without  any  attempted  punishment  on  the 
part  of  the  whites,  the  Indians  began  seriously  to  contemplate  the 


64 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


practicability  of  driving  out  every  white  intruder  upon  their  hunt- 
ing and  fishing  grounds. 

At  this  time,  James  D.  Savage  had  two  stores,  or  trading-posts, 
nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  affected  tribes ;  the  one  on  Little  Mari- 
posa Creek,  about  twenty  miles  south  of  the  town  of  Mariposa,  and 
near  the  old  stone  fort ;  and  the  other  on  Frezno  River,  about  two 
miles  above  where  John  Hunt's  store  now  is.  Around  these  stores 
those  Indians  who  were  the  most  friendly,  used  to  congregate ;  and 
from  whom,  and  his  two  Indian  wives,  Eekino  and  Homut,  Savage 
ascertained  the  state  of  thought  and  of  feeling  among  them. 

In  order  to  avert  such  a  calamity,  and  without  even  hinting  at 
his  motive,  he  invited  an  Indian  chief,  who  possessed  much  influ- 
ence with  the  Chow-chillas  and  Chook-chan-cies,  named  Jose  Jerez, 
to  accompany  him  and  his  two  squaws  to  San  Francisco ;  hoping 
thereby  to  impress  him  with  the  wonders,  numbers,  and  power  of 
the  whites,  and  through  him  the  various  tribes  that  were  malcon- 
tented.  To  this  Jerez  gladly  assented,  and  they  arrived  in  San 
Francisco  in  time  to  witness  the  first  celebration  of  the  admission 
of  California  into  the  Union,  on  the  29th  of  October,  1850,*  when 
they  put  up  at  the  Revere  House,  then  standing  on  Montgomery 
street. 

During  their  stay  in  San  Francisco,  and  while  Savage  was  pur- 
chasing goods  for  his  stores  in  the  mountains,  Jose  Jerez,  the 
Indian  chief,  became  intoxicated,  and  returned  to  the  hotel  about 
the  same  time  as  Savage,  in  a  state  of  boisterous  and  quarrelsome 
excitement.  In  order  to  prevent  his  making  a  disturbance,  Savage 
shut  him  up  in  his  room,  and  there  endeavored  to  soothe  him,  and 
restrain  his  violence  by  kindly  words ;  but  this  he  resented,  and 
became  not  only  troublesome,  but  very  insulting ;  when,  after  pa- 
tiently bearing  it  as  long  as  he  possibly  could,  at  a  time  of  great 
provocation,  unhappily  he  was  tempted  to  strike  Jerez,  and  followed 
it  up  with  a  severe  scolding.    This  very  much  exasperated  the 

*  The  news  of  the  admission,  by  Congress,  of  California  into  the  Union,  on  the  9th  of 
September,  1850,  was  brought  by  the  mail  steamer  "Oregon,"  which  arrived  in  the  Bay 
of  San  Francisco  on  the  ISth  of  October,  1850,  when  preparations  were  immediately 
commenced  for  a  general  jubilee  throughout  the  State  on  the  29th  of  that  month. 


THE  YO-SEMH'E  VALLEY. 


6'a 


Lidian,  and  he  indulged  in  numerous  muttered  threats  of  what 
he  would  do  when  he  went  back  among  his  own  people.  But. 
when  sober,  he  concealed  his  angry  resentment,  and,  Indian-like, 
sullenly  awaited  his  opportunity  for  revenge.  Simple,  and  appar- 
ently small  as  was  this  circumstance,  like  many  others  equally  in- 
significant, it  led  to  very  unfortunate  results ;  for  no  sooner  had 
he  returned  to  his  own  people,  than  he  summoned  a  council  of  the 
chief  men  of  all  the  surrounding  tribes ;  and  from  his  influence 
and  representations  mainly,  steps  were  then  and  there  agreed  upon 
to  drive  out  or  kill  all  the  whites,  and  appropriate  all  the  horses, 
mules,  oxen,  and  provisions  they  could  find.* 

Accordingly,  early  one  morning  in  the  ensuing  month  of  Novem- 
ber, the  Indians  entered  Savage's  store  on  the  Frezno,  in  their 
usual  manner,  as  though  on  a  trading  expedition,  when  an  imme- 
diate and  apparently  preconcerted  plan  of  attack  was  made  with 
hatchets,  crow-bars,  and  arrows  ;  first  upon  Mr.  Greeley,  who  had 
charge  of  the  store,  and  then  upon  three  other  white  men  named 
Canada,  Stiffner,  and  Brown,  who  Avere  present.  This  was  made 
so  unexpectedly  as  to  exclude  time  or  opportunity  for  defence,  and 
all  were  killed  except  Brown,  whose  life  was  saved  by  an  Indian 
named  "  Polonio"  (thus  christened  by  the  whites),  jumping  be- 
tween him  and  the  attacking  party,  at  the  risk  of  his  own  personal 
safety,  thus  affording  Brown  a  chance  of  escape,  and  which  he 
made  the  best  of  by  running  all  the  way  to  Quartzburg,  at  the 
height  of  his  speed. 

Simultaneously  with  this  attack  on  the  Frezno,  Savage's  other 
store  and  residence  on  the  Mariposa  was  attacked,  during  his 
absence,  by  another  band,  and  his  Indian  wives  carried  off. 
Similar  onslaughts  having  been  made  at  different  points  on  the 
Merced,  San  Joaquin,  Frezno,  and  Chow-chilla  rivers,  Savage 
concluded  that  a  general  Indian  war  was  about  opening,  and  im- 
mediately commenced  raising  a  volunteer  battalion.  At  the  same 
time  a  requisition  for  men,  arms,  ammunition,  and  general  stores, 

*  These  facts  were  communicated  to  us  by  Mr.  J.  M.  Cunningham  (now  in  the  Yo- 
Semite  valley),  who  was  then  engaged  as  clerk  for  Savage,  and  was  present  during  the 
altercation  between  him  and  the  Indian. 


66 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


was  made  upon  the  Governor  of  the  State  (General  John  McDou- 
gal),  which  was  promptly  responded  to  by  him,  and  hostilities 
were  at  once  begun. 

Doctor  L.  II.  Bunnell,  an  eye-witness,  belonging  to  the  Mariposa 
battalion,  has  kindly  favored  us  with  the  following  interesting 
account  of  this  campaign : 

''Preparations  were  being  made  for  defence,  when  the  news  came 
of  the  sack  of  Savage's  place  on  the  Frezno,  and  of  two  men 
killed,  and  one  wounded;  and  close  on  this  report  came  another,  of 
the  murder  of  four  men  at  Doctor  Thomas  Payne's  place,  at  the 
Four  Creeks;  one  of  the  bodies  being  found  skinned.  The  bearer 
of  the  news  was  one  who  had  escaped  the  murderous  assault  of 
the  Indians  by  the  fleetness  of  his  horse,  but  with  the  loss  of  an 
arm,  which  was  amputated,  soon  after  this  event,  by  Doctor 
Leach,  of  the  Frezno. 

''These  occurrences  so  exasperated  the  people,  that  a  company 
was  at  once  raised  and  despatched  to  chastise  the  Indians.  They 
found  and  attacked  a  large  rancheria,  high  up  on  the  Frezno. 
During  the  fight,  Lieutenant  Stein  was  killed,  and  William  Little 
severely  wounded.  It  is  not  known  how  many  Indians  were 
killed,  but  the  whites  assert  that  in  that  battle  they  did  nothing  to 
immortalize  themselves  as  Indian  fighters.  Most  of  the  party 
were  very  much  dissatisfied  with  the  result  of  the  fight;  and 
while  some  left  for  the  settlements,  others  continued  in  search  of 
the  Indians. 

"In  a  few  days  it  was  ascertained  that  some  four  or  five  hundred 
Indians  had  assembled  on  a  round  mountain,  lying  between  the 
north  branches  of  the  San  Joaquin,  and  that  they  invited  attack. 
They  were  discovered  late  in  the  afternoon;  but  Captain  Boling 
and  Lieutenant  Chandler  were  disposed  to  have  a  '  brush'  with 
them  that  evening,  if  for  no  other  reason  than  to  study  their  posi- 
tion. Their  object  was  gained,  and  the  captain,  with  his  company, 
was  followed  by  the  Indians  on  his  return  from  reconnoitring, 
and  annoyed  during  the  night. 

"In  the  morning  volunteers  were  called  for,  to  attack  the  ranch- 
eria.   Thirty-six  offered,  and  at  daylight  the  storming  commenced 


THE  YO-SKMITK  VALLEY. 


67 


with  such  fury  as  is  seldom  witnessed  in  Indian  warfare.  The 
rancheria  was  tired  in  several  places  at  the  same  time,  in  accord- 
ance with  a  previous  understanding,  and  as  the  Indians  sallied 
from  their  burning  wigwams,  they  were  shot  down,  killed,  or 
wounded.  A  panic  seized  many  of  them,  and  notwithstanding 
the  fear  in  which  their  chief,  'Jose,7  was  held,  at  such  a  time 
his  authority  was  powerless  to  compel  his  men  to  stand  before  the 
flames,  and  the  exasperated  fury  of  the  whites.  Jose  was  mor- 
tally wounded,  and  twenty-three  of  his  men  were  killed  upon  the 
ground.  Only  one  of  Captain  Boling's  party  (a  negro  who  fought 
valiantly)  was  touched,  and  he  but  slightly.  It  is  not  my  pur- 
pose to  eulogize  any  one,  but  it  is  right  to  say,  that  that  battle 
checked  the  Indians  in  their  career  of  murder  and  robbery,  and 
did  more  to  save  the  blood  of  the  whites,  as  well  as  of  Indians, 
than  any  or  all  other  circumstances  combined. 

"In  a  subsequent  expedition  into  that  region  after  the  organiza- 
tion of  the  battalion,  which  was  in  January,  1851,  the  remains  of 
Jose  were  found  still  burning  among  the  coals  of  the  funeral  pyre. 
The  Indians  fled  at  the  approach  of  the  volunteers,  not  even  firing 
a  gun  or  winging  an  arrow,  in  defence  of  their  once  loved,  but 
dreaded  chief. 

"It  will  not,  I  think,  be  out  of  place  in  this  connection,  to  repeat 
a  speech  delivered  by  Captain  Boling  on  the  eve  of  the  expected 
battle.  The  captain's  object  was  to  exhort  the  men  to  do  their 
duty.  He  commenced: — 'Gentlemen — hem — fellow  citizens — 
hem — soldiers — hem — fellow  volunteers — hem' — (tremblingly) — 
and  after  a  long  pause,  he  broke  out  into  a  laugh,  and  said  : 
'  Boys,  I  will  only  say  in  conclusion,  that  I  hope  I  will  fight  better 
than  I  speak.1 

"It  was  during  the  occurrence  of  the  events  that  have  been  men- 
tioned above,  that  the  existence  of  an  Indian  stronghold  was 
brought  to  light.  When  the  Indians  were  told  that  they  would 
all  be  killed,  if  they  did  not  make  peace,  they  would  laugh  in  de- 
rision, and  say  that  they  had  many  places  to  flee  to,  where  the 
whites  could  not  follow  them;  and  one  place  they  had,  which,  if 
the  whites  were  to  enter,  they  would  be  corralled  like  mules  or 


68 


SCENES   IN  CALIFORNIA. 


horses.  After  a  series  of  perplexing  delays,  Major  Savage,  Cap- 
tain Boling,  and  Captain  Dill,  with  two  companies  of  the  battal- 
ion, started  in  search  of  the  Indians  and  their  Gibraltar.  On  the 
south  fork  of  the  Merced,  a  rancheria  was  taken  without  firing  a 
gun ;  the  orders  from  the  Commissioners  being  in  '  no  case  to  shed 
blood  unnecessarily  ;'  and  to  the  credit  of  our  race,  it  was  strictly 
obeyed  throughout  the  campaign,  except  in  one  individual  in- 
stance. 

"  As  soon  as  the  prisoners  had  arrived  at  the  rendezvous  designa- 
ted, near  what  is  now  called  Bishop's  Camp,  Pou-watch-ie  and 
Cow-chit-ty  (brothers),  chiefs  of  the  tribes  we  had  taken,  despatched 
runners  to  the  chief  of  the  tribe  living  in  the  then  unknown  val- 
ley, with  orders  from  Major  Savage  for  him  to  bring  in  his  tribe 
to  head-quarters,  or  to  the  rendezvous. 

"Next  morning  the  chief  spoken  of,  Ten-ie-ya,  came  in  alone, 
and  stated  that  his  people  would  be  in  during  the  following  day, 
and  that  they  now  desired  peace.  The  time  passed  for  their  arri- 
val. After  waiting  another  day,  and  no  certainty  of  their  coming 
manifested,  early  on  the  following  morning  volunteers  were 
called  for  to  storm  their  stronghold. 

"  The  place  where  the  Indians  were  supposed  to  be  living,  was 
depicted  in  no  very  favorable  terms;  but  so  anxious  had  the  men 
become,  that  more  offered  than  were  desired  by  Captain  Boling 
for  the  expedition.  To  decide  who  should  go,  the  captain  paced 
off  one  hundred  yards,  and  told  the  volunteers  that  he  wanted 
men  fleet  of  foot,  and  with  powers  of  endurance,  and  their  fitness 
could  be  demonstrated  by  a  race.  By  this  means  he  selected, 
without  offence,  the  men  he  desired.  Some,  in  their  anxiety  to  go, 
ran  bare-footed  in  the  snow. 

"All  being  ready,  Ten-ie-ya  took  the  lead  as  guide,  very  much 
against  his  inclination ;  and  avc  commenced  our  march  to  the  then 
unknown  and  unnamed  valley.  Savage  said  he  had  been  there, 
but  not  by  the  route  that  we  were  taking.  About  half  way  to  the 
valley,  which  proved  about  fifteen  miles  from  the  rendezvous,  on 
the  south  fork,  seventy-two  Indians,  women,  and  children,  were 
met  coming  in  as  promised  by  Ten-ie-ya. 


THE  YO-SKMITK  VALLEY.  69 

"They  gave  as  an  excuse  for  their  delay  the  great  depth  of  the 
snow,  which  in  places  was  over  eight  feet  deep.  Ten-ie-ya  tried 
to  convince  Major  Savage  that  there  were  no  more  Indians  in  the 
valley,  but  the  whole  command  cried  out  as  with  one  voice,  'Let's 
go  on.'  The  major  was  willing  to  indulge  the  men  in  their  desire 
to  learn  the  truth  of  the  exaggerated  reports  the  Indians  had 
given  of  the  country,  and  we  moved  on.  Ten-ie-ya  was  allowed 
to  return  with  his  people  to  the  rendezvous,  sending  in  his  stead  a 
young  Indian  as  guide. 

"  Upon  the  arrival  of  the  party  in  the  valley,  the  young  Indian 
manifested  a  great  deal  of  uneasiness  ;  lie  said  it  would  be  impos- 
sible to  cross  the  river  that  night,  and  was  not  certain  that  it  could 
be  crossed  in  the  morning.  It  was  evident  that  he  had  some 
object  in  view;  but  the  volunteers  were  obliged  to  content  them- 
selves for  the  night,  resolved  to  be  up  and  looking  out  for  them- 
selves early  in  the  morning,  for  a  crossing,  or  way  over  the  rocks 
and  through  the  jungle  into  which  they  had  been  led.  Daylight 
appeared,  and  with  it  was  found  a  ford.  And  such  a  ford!  It 
furnished  in  copious  abundance,  water  for  more  than  one  plunge 
hath,  and  that,  too,  to  some  who  were  no  admirers  of  hydropathy  ; 
or,  judging  from  their  appearance,  had  never  realized  any  of  its 
bounties. 

"  In  passing  up  the  valley  on  the  north  side,  it  was  soon  very  evi- 
dent that  some  of  the  wigwams  had  been  occupied  the  night 
before  ;  and  hence  the  anxiety  of  the  young  Indian,  lest  the  occu- 
pants should  be  surprised.  The  valley  was  scoured  in  all  direc- 
tions, but  not  an  Indian  could  be  found.  At  length,  hid  among 
the  rocks,  the  writer  discovered  an  old  woman;  so  old,  that  when 
Ten-ie-ya  was  interrogated  in  regard  to  her  age,  he  with  a  smile, 
said,  that  'when  she  was  a  child,  the  mountains  were  hills.'  The 
old  creature  was  provided  with  fire  and  food,  and  allowed  to 
remain. 

"It  having  snowed  during  the  night,  and  continuing  to  snow  in 
the  morning,  the  major  ordered  the  return  of  the  command,  lest 
it  should  be  hemmed  in  by  snow.  This  was  in  March,  1851. 
Ten-ie-ya  and  others  of  his  tribe  asserted  most  positively  that  we 


70 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


were  the  first  white  men  ever  in  the  valley.  The  writer  asked 
Major  Savage,  '  Have  you  not  been  in  the  valley  before  !"  he  an- 
swered, 'No,  never;  I  have  been  mistaken;  it  was  in  a  valley 
below  this  (since  known  as  Cascade  Valley),  two  and  a  half  miles 
below  the  Yo-Seniite.' 

"On our  return  to  the  rendezvous  where  the  prisoners  had  been 
assembled,  we  started  for  the  Commissioners'  camp  on  the  Frezno. 
On  our  way  in,  about  a  hundred  more  Indians  gave  themselves 
up  to  Captain  Dill's  company.  When  within  about  fifteen  miles 
of  the  Commissioners'  camp,  nine  men  only  being  left  in  charge, 
owing  to  an  absolute  want  of  provisions,  the  Indians  iled — fright- 
ened, as  it  afterward  appeared,  by  the  stories  told  them  by  the 
Chow-ciiillas.  Only  one  of  their  number  was  left;  he  had  eaten 
venison  with  such  a  relish  at  the  camp-fire  of  the  whites  as  to  un- 
fit him  for  active  duties;  and  on  his  awaking  and  finding  himself 
alone  among  the  whites,  he  thought  his  doom  sealed.  lie  was 
told  that  he  had  nothing  to  fear,  and  soon  became  reconciled. 

"  Upon  the  arrival,  at  the  Commissioners'  camp,  of  Captain  Bol- 
ing  and  his  nine  men,  Von-ches  ter  (!),  a  chief,  was  despatched  to 
find  and  bring  in  the  frightened  Indians.  In  a  few  days  he  suc- 
ceeded in  bringing  in  about  a  hundred ;  but  Ten-ie-ya  with  his 
people  said  he  would  not  return. 

"After  a  trip  to  the  San  Joaquin,  which  before  has  been  alluded 
to,  it  was  resolved  to  make  another  trip  to  the  Yo-Semite  Yalley, 
there  establish  head-rpiarters,  and  remain  until  we  had  thoroughly 
learned  the  country,  and  taken,  or  driven  out,,  every  Indian  in  it. 
On  our  arrival  in  the  valley,  a  short  distance  above  the  prominent 
bluff  known  as  El  Capitan,  or  as  the  Indians  call  it,  Tu-toch-ah- 
nu-lah,  which  signifies  in  their  language,  The  Captain,  five  Indians 
were  seen  and  heard  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  taunting 
us.  They  evidently  thought  we  could  not  cross,  as  the  river  was 
so  very  high  (this  was  in  the  early  part  of  May  ),  but  they  were 
mistaken,  as  six  of  us  plunged  our  animals  in  the  stream,  swam 
across,  and  drove  the  Indians  in  among  the  rocks  which  obstruct 
the  passage  of  animals  on  the  north  side  of  the  valley ;  Captain 
Boling  in  the  mean  time  crossing  above  the  rocks,  succeeded  in 


THE  YO-SEMITE  VALLEY. 


7L 


TU-TOCH-AH-NU-LAII,  THREE  THOUSAND  AND  EIGHTY-NINE  FEET  ABOVE  THE  VALLEY. 
(From  a  Photograph  by  C.  L.  Weed.) 

taking  them,  all  prisoners.  Three  of  these  were  kept  as  hostages, 
while  two  were  sent  to  Ten-ie-va  with  an  order  for  his  immediate 
presence.  Of  the  three  kept  as  hostages,  two  were  sons  of  Ten-ie- 
ya,  while  the  two  sent  with  a  message,  were  a  son  and  son-in- 
law. 

u  The  writer  was  despatched  by  Captain  fioling  to  guard  them 
against  the  fire  of  any  scouting  party  they  might  encounter  in  the 
valley,  and  succeeded  in  saving  them  from  an  exasperated  individual 
who  was  met  returning  with  C.  II.  Spencer,  Esq.  (now  of  Chicago), 


72 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


who  had  been  wounded  while  tracing  out  the  hiding-places  of  the 
Indians.  When  the  two  sent  for  Ten-ie-ya  left,  they  said  he  would 
be  in  by  ten  o'clock  the  next  morning,  and  that  he  would  not  have 
ran  away  but  for  the  stories  told  by  the  Ohow-chillas.  On  the 
morning  of  the  day  Ten-ie-ya  was  expected,  one  of  the  three  In- 
dians escaped,  having  deceived  the  guard. 

"  Soon  after,  the  two  remaining  were  discovered  untying  them- 
selves. Two  men,  instead  of  informing  Captain  Boling,  that  he 
might  make  more  secure  their  fastenings,  placed  themselves  near 
their  arms  to  watch  their  movements,  in  order,  if  possible,  to  dis- 
tinguish themselves.  One  was  gratified  ;  for  as  soon  as  the  Indians 
bounded  to  their  feet,  freed  from  their  fetters,  they  started  to  run ; 
Ten-ie-ya's  youngest  son  was  shot  dead— the  other  escaped. 

"While  this  was  occurring,  a  party  was  reconnoitring  the  scene 
of  Spencer's  disaster,  and  while  there,  discovered  Ten-ie-ya  perched 
upon  a  rock  overlooking  the  valley.  He  was  engaged  in  conver- 
sation, while  a  party  cut  off  his  retreat  and  secured  him  as  a  pris- 
oner. Upon  his  entrance  into  the  camp  of  the  volunteers,  the 
first  object  that  met  his  gaze  was  the  dead  body  of  his  son.  Not 
a  word  did  he  speak,  but  the  workings  of  his  soul  were  frightfully 
manifested  in  the  deep  and  silent  gloom  that  overspread  his  coun- 
tenance. For  a  time  he  was  left  to  himself;  but  after  a  while 
Captain  Boling  explained  to  him  the  occurrence,  and  expressed 
his  regrets  that  it  should  have  so  happened,  and  ordered  a  change 
of  camp,  to  enable  the  friends  of  the  dead  boy  to  go  unmolested 
and  remove  the  body. 

"After  remaining  inactive  a  day  or  two,  hoping  that  the  Indians 
mi«rht  come  in,  a  k  scout'  was  made  in  the  direction  of  the  Tuo- 
lunme.  Only  one  Indian  was  seen,  and  he  evidently  had  been  de- 
tailed to  watch  our  movements.  Various  scouts  being  made  to 
little  purpose,  it  was  concluded  to  go  as  far  up  the  river  as  possi- 
ble, or  as  far  as  the  Indians  could  be  traced. 

"  The  command  felt  more  confidence  in  this  expedition,  from  the 
fact  that  Cow-chit-ty  had  arrived  with  a  few  of  the  tribe  mentioned 
before  as  having  been  taken  on  the  south  fork  of  the  Merced. 
They  knew  the  country  well,  and  although  their  language  differed 


THE  YO-SKMITE  VALLEY. 


73 


a  little  from  that  of  the  Yo-Semite  tribe,  yet,  by  means  of  a  mis- 
sion Indian,  who  spoke  Spanish  and  the  various  Indian  tongues 
of  this  region,  Ten-ie-ya  was  told  if  he  called  in  his  people  they 
were  confident  that  we  would  not  hurt  them.  Apparently  he  was 
satisfied,  and  promised  to  bring  them  in,  and  at  night,  when  they 
were  supposed  to  hover  around  our  camp,  he  would  call  upon  them 
to  come  in  ;  but  no  Indians  came. 

"While  waiting  here  for  provisions,  the  chief  became  tired  of  his 
food,  said  it  was  the  season  for  grass  and  clover,  and  that  it  was 
tantalizing  for  him  to  be  in  sight  of  such  abundance,  and  not  be 
permitted  to  taste  it.  It  was  interpreted  to  Captain  Boling,  when 
he  good  humoredly  said  that  he  should  have  a  ton  if  he  desired  it. 
Mr.  Cameron  (now  of  Los  Angelos)  attached  a  rope  to  the  old 
man's  body,  and  led  him  out  to  graze!  A  wonderful  improve- 
ment took  place  in  his  condition,  and  in  a  few  days  he  looked  like 
a  new  man. 

"With  returning  health  and  strength  came  the  desire  for  liberty, 
and  it  was  manifested  one  evening,  when  Mr.  Cameron  was  off  his 
guard,  by  his  endeavor  to  escape.  Mr.  Cameron,  however,  caught 
him  at  the  water's  edge,  as  he  was  about  to  swim  the  river.  Then, 
in  the  fury  inspired  by  his  failure  to  escape,  he  cried:  '  Kill  me 
if  you  like;  but  if  you  do,  my  voice  shall  be  heard  at  night,  call- 
ing upon  my  people  to  revenge  me,  in  louder  tones  than  you  have 
ever  made  it  ring.1  (It  was  the  custom  of  Captain  Boling  to  ask 
him  to  call  for  his  people.) 

"  Soon  after  this  occurrence,  it  being  manifest  to  all  that  the  old 
man  had  no  intention  of  calling  in  his  people,  and  the  provisions 
arriving,  we  commenced  our  march  to  the  head  waters  of  the  Py- 
we-ah,  or  branch  of  the  Merced,  in  the  valley  on  which  is  situated 
Mirror  Lake,  and  fifteen  miles  above  the  valley  lake  Ten-ie-ya. 
At  a  rancheria  on  the  shore  of  this  lake,  we  found  thirty -five 
Indians,  whom  we  took  prisoners.  With  this  expedition  Captain 
Boling  took  Ten-ie-ya,  hoping  to  make  him  useful  as  a  guide ;  but 
if  Chow-chit-ty,  who  discovered  the  rancheria,  had  not  been  with 
us,  we  probably  would  have  gone  back  without  seeing  an  Indian. 
In  taking  this  rancheria  no  Indians  were  killed,  but  it  was  a  death- 
4 


74 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


blow  to  their  hopes  of  holding  out  longer  against  the  whites,  for 
when  ashed  if  they  were  willing  to  go  in  and  live  peaceably,  the 
chief  at  the  rancheria  (Ten-ie-ya  was  not  allowed  to  speak)  stretch- 
ing his  hand  out  and  over  the  country,  exclaimed  :  '  Not  only 
willing,  but  anxious,  for  where  can  we  go  that  the  Americans  do 
not  follow  us  V 

"It  was  evident  that  they  had  not  much  expected  us  to  follow 
them  to  so  retired  a  place ;  and  surrounded  as  they  were  by  snow, 
it  was  impossible  for  them  to  flee,  and  take  with  them  their 
women  and  children. 

"  One  of  the  children,  a  boy  five  or  six  years  old,  was  discovered 
naked,  climbing  up  a  smooth  granite  slope  that  rises  from  the  lake 
on  the  north  side.  At  first  he  was  thought  to  be  a  coon  or  a 
fisher,  for  it  was  not  thought  possible  for  any  human  being  to 
climb  up  such  a  slope.  The  mystery  was  soon  solved  by  an  Indian 
who  went  out  to  him,  coaxed  him  down  from  his  perilous  position, 
and  brought  him  into  camp.  lie  was  a  bright  boy,  and  Captain 
Boling  adopted  him,  calling  him  Reub,  after  Lieutenant  Reuben 
Chandler,  who  was,  and  is,  a  great  favorite  with  the  volunteers. 
He  was  sent  to  school  at  Stockton,  and  made  rapid  progress.  To 
give  him  advantages  that  he  could  not  obtain  in  Mariposa  county 
at  that  time,  he  was  placed  in  charge  of  Colonel  Lane,  Captain 
Boling's  brother-in-law.  To  illustrate  the  folly,  as  a  general  thing, 
of  attempting  to  civilize  his  race,  he  ran  away,  taking  with  him 
two  very  valuable  horses  belonging  to  his  patron. 

"We  encamped  on  the  shores  of  the  lake  one  night.  Sleep  Avas 
prevented  by  the  excessive  cold,  so  in  the  gray  of  morning  we 
stalled  with  our  prisoners  on  our  return  to  the  valley.  This  was 
about  the  5th  of  June ;  we  had  taken  at  the  lake  four  of  old  Ten- 
ie-ya's  wives  and  all  of  his  family,  except  those  who  had  fled  to 
the  Mono  country,  through  the  pass  which  we  saw  while  on  this 
expedition  ;  and,  being  satisfied  that  all  had  been  done  that  could 
be,  and  not  a  fresh  Indian  sign  to  be  seen  in  the  country,  we  were 
ordered  to  the  Frezno.  The  battalion  was  soon  after  disbanded, 
and  nothing  more  was  heard  of  the  turbulent  Ten-ie-ya  and  his 
band  of  pillager  Indians  (who  had  been  allowed  once  more  to  go 


THE  YO-SEMITE  VALLEY. 


75 


back  to  the  valley  upon  the  promise  of  good  behavior),  until  the 
report  came  of  their  attack  upon  a  party  of  whites  who  visited 
the  valley  in  1852,  from  Coarse-Gold  Gulch,  Frezno  county. 
Two  men  of  the  party,  Rose  and  Shurbon,  were  killed,  and  a 
man  named  Tudor  wounded. 

"  In  June,  Lieutenant  Moore,  accompanied  by  one  of  Major  Sav- 
age's men,  A.  A.  Gray,  and  some  other  volunteers,  visited  the  valley 
with  a  company  of  United  States  troops,  for  the  purpose  of  chas- 
tising the  murderers.  Five  of  them  were  found  and  immediately 
executed;  the  wearing  apparel  of  the  murdered  men  being  found 
upon  them.  This  may  shock  the  sensibilities  of  some,  but  it  is 
conceded  that  it  was  necessary  in  order  to  put  a  quietus  upon  the 
murderous  propensities  of  this  lawless  band,  who  were  outcasts 
from  the  various  tribes.  After  the  murder,  Ten-ie-ya,  to  escape 
the  wrath  lie  knew  awaited  him,  fled  to  the  Monos,  on  the  eastern 
side  of  the  Sierra.  In  the  summer  of  1853,  they  returned  to  the 
valley. 

"As  a  reward  for  the  hospitality  shown  them,  they  stole  a 
lot  of  horses  from  the  Monos,  and  ran  them  into  the  Yo-Semite. 
They  were  allowed  to  enjoy  their  plunder  but  a  short  time  before 
the  Monos  came  down  upon  them  like  a  whirlwind.  Ten-ie-ya 
was  surprised  in  his  wigwam,  and,  instead  of  dying  the  very  poetic 
death  of  a  broken  heart,  as  was  once  stated,  he  died  of  a  broken 
head,  crushed  by  stones  in  the  hands  of  an  infuriated  and  wronged 
Mono  chief.  In  this  fight,  all  of  the  Yo-Semite  tribe,  except 
eight  braves  and  a  few  old  men  and  women,  were  killed  or  taken 
prisoners  (the  women  only  taken  as  prisoners),  and  thus,  as  a  tribe, 
they  became  extinct. 

"  It  is  proper  to  say,  what  1  have  before  stated,  that  the  Yo-Sem- 
ite Indians  w  ere  a  composite  race,  consisting  of  the  disaffected  of 
the  various  tribes  from  the  Tuolumne  to  King's  River,  and  hence 
the  difficulty  in  our  understanding  of  the  name,  Yo-Semite  ;  but 
that  name,  upon  the  writer's  suggestion,  was  finally  approved  and 
applied  to  the  valley,  by  vote  of  the  volunteers  who  visited  it. 
Whether  it  was  a  compromise  among  the  Indians,  as  well  as  with 
us,  it  will  now  be  difficult  to  ascertain.    The  name  is  now  well 


76 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


established,  and  it  is  that  by  which  the  few  remaining  Indians 
below  the  valley  call  it. 

"  Having  been  in  every  expedition  to  the  valley  made  by  volun- 
teers, and  since  that  time  assisted  George  H.  Peterson  (Fremont's 
engineer)  in  his  surveys,  the  writer,  at  the  risk  of  appearing  ego- 
tistical, claims  that  he  had  superior  advantages  for  obtaining  cor- 
rect information,  more  especially  as,  in  the  first  two  expeditions, 
Tcn-ie-ya  was  placed  under  his  especial  charge,  and  he  acted  as 
interpreter  to  Captain  Boling. 

"It  is  acknowledged  that  Ah-wah-ne  is  the  old  Indian  name  for 
the  valley,  and  that  Ah-wah-ne-chee  is  the  name  of  its  original 
occupants ;  but  as  this  was  discovered  by  the  writer  long  after  he 
had  named  the  valley,  and  as  it  was  the  wish  of  every  volunteer 
with  whom  he  conversed  that  the  name  Yo-Semite  be  retained, 
he  said  very  little  about  it.  He  will  only  say,  in  conclusion,  that 
the  principal  facts  are  before  the  public,  and  that  it  is  for  them  to 
decide  whether  they  will  retain  the  name  Yo-Semite,  or  have 
some  other.  L.  II.  Bunnell. 

"We,  the  undersigned,  having  been  members  of  the  same  com- 
pany, and  through  most  of  the  scenes  depicted  by  Doctor  Bun- 
nell, have  no  hesitation  in  saying,  that  the  article  above  is  correct. 

"  James  M.  Roane, 
"Geo.  II.  Crenshaw." 

We  cheerfully  give  place  to  the  above  communication,  that  the 
public  may  learn  how  and  by  whom  this  remarkable  valley  was 
first  visited  and  named ;  and,  although  we  have  differed  with  the 
writer  and  others  concerning  the  name  given,  as  explained  in  sev- 
eral articles  that  have  appeared  at  different  times  in  the  several 
newspapers  of  the  day,  in  which  Yo-ham-i-te  was  preferred,  yet, 
as  Mr.  Bunnell  was  the  first  to  visit  the  valley,  we  most  willingly 
accord  to  him  the  right  of  giving  it  whatever  name  he  pleases. 
At  the  same  time,  we  will  here  enter  the  following  reasons  for 
calling  it  Yo-ham-i-te,  the  name  by  which  we  have  been  accus- 
tomed to  speak  of  it. 

In  the  summer  of  1855,  we  engaged  Thomas  Ayres,  a  well- 


THE  YO-SEMITE  VALLEY. 


77 


known  artist  of  San  Francisco  (who  unfortunately  lost  his  life  not 
long  since,  by  the  wreck  of  the  schooner  Laura  Bevan),  to  accom- 
pany us  on  a  sketching  tour  to  the  Big  Trees  and  the  valley  above 
alluded  to. 

When  we  arrived  at  Mariposa,  we  found  that  the  existence 
even  of  such  a  valley  was  almost  unknown  among  a  large  ma- 
jority of  the  people  residing  there.  We  made  many  inquiries 
respecting  it,  and  how  to  find  our  way  there ;  but,  although  one 
referred  us  to  another  who  had  been  there  after  Indians  in  1S51, 
and  he  again  referred  us  to  some  one  else,  we  could  not  find  a 
single  person  who  could  direct  us.  In  this  dilemma  we  met  Cap- 
tain Boling,  the  gentleman  spoken  of  above,  who,  although  desir- 
ous of  assisting  us,  confessed  that  it  was  so  long  since  he  was 
there,  that  he  could  not  give  us  any  satisfactory  directions. 
"  But,"  said  he,  "  if  I  were  you,  I  would  go  down  to  John  Hunt's 
store,  on  the  Frezno,  and  he  will  provide  you  with  a  couple  of 
good  Indian  guides  from  the  very  tribe  that  occupied  that  valley." 

We  adopted  this  plan,  although  it  took  us  twenty-live  or  thirty 
miles  out  of  our  way ;  deeming  such  a  step  the  most  prudent 
under  the  circumstances.  Up  to  this  time  we  had  never  heard  or 
seen  any  other  name  than  Yo-Semite. 

Mr.  Hunt  very  kindly  acceded  to  our  request,  and  gave  us  two 
of  the  most  intelligent  and  trustworthy  Indians  that  he  had,  and 
the  following  day  we  set  out  for  the  valley. 

Toward  night  on  the  first  day,  we  inquired  of  Kossum,  one  of 
our  guides,  how  far  he  thought  it  might  possibly  be  to  the  Yo- 
Semite  Valley,  when  he  looked  at  us  earnestly,  and  said  :  "  No 
Yo-Si-mite;  Yo-Hamite /  sabe,  Yo-Ham-i-teP  In  this  way  were 
we  corrected  not  less  than  thirty-five  or  forty  times  on  our  way 
thither,  by  these  Indians.  After  our  return  to  San  Francisco,  we 
made  arrangements  for  publishing  a  large  lithograph  of  the  great 
falls  ;  but,  before  attaching  the  name  to  the  valley  and  falls  for 
the  public  eye,  we  wrote  to  Mr.  Hunt,  requesting  him  to  go  to 
the  most  intelligent  of  those  Indians,  and  from  them  ascertain  the 
exact  pronunciation  of  the  name  given  to  that  valley.  After  at- 
tending to  the  request,  he  wrote  us  that  "  the  correct  pronuncia- 


78 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


tion  was  Yo-IIam-i-te  or  Yo-Ifem-i-te."  And,  while  we  most 
willingly  acquiesce  in  the  name  of  Yo-Semite,  for  the  reasons 
above  stated,  as  neither  that  nor  Yo-IIam-i-te,  but  Ah-wah-ne,  is 
said  to  be  the  pure  Indian  name,  we  confess  that  our  preferences 
still  are  in  favor  of  the  pure  Indian  being  given ;  but  until  that  is 
determined  upon  (which  we  do  not  ever  expect  to  see  done  now), 
Yo-Seinitc,  we  think,  has  the  preference.  Had  we  before  known 
that  Doctor  Bunnell  and  his  party  were  the  first  whites  who  ever 
entered  the  valley  (although  we  have  the  honor  of  being  the  first, 
in  later  years,  to  visit  it  and  call  public  atten  tion  to  it),  we  should 
long  ago  have  submitted  to  the  name  Doctor  Bunnell  had  given  it 
as  the  discoverer  of  the  valley. 

At  the  time  we  visited  it  there  was  scarcely  the  outline  of  an 
Indian  trail  visible,  either  upon  the  way  or  in  the  valley,  as  all  were 
overgrown  with  grass  or  weeds,  or  covered  with  old  leaves,  and 
nothing  could  be  found  there  but  the  bleaching  bones  of  animals 
that  had  been  slaughtered,  and  an  old  acorn  post  or  two,  on  which 
a  supply  of  edibles  had  once  been  stored  by  the  Indian  residents. 

Having  thus  explained  the  incidents  connected  with  the  early 
history  of  this  remarkable  place,  we  invite  the  courteous  reader  to 
give  us  the  pleasure  of  his  company  thither. 

THE  VAKIOUS  ROUTES  TO  THE  YO-SEMITE  VALLEY. 

These  routes,  like  those  to  the  mammoth  trees  of  Calaveras,  are 
very  numerous,  and  consequently  cannot  be  fully  described  in  this 
work  ;  but  the  principal  ones,  and  these  at  present  most  travelled, 
are  via  Stockton  and  Coulterville,  Mariposa,  and  Big-Oak  Flat ; 
Stockton  or  Sacramento  City  being  the  starting-point  for  persons 
living  adjacent  to  San  Francisco. 

The  Coulterville  stage  leaves  Stockton  at  six  o'clock  a.  m.  on 
each  alternate  day,  arriving  in  Coulterville  the  same  evening  about 
eight  or  nine  o'clock  p.  m.  At  twelve  o'clock  midnight,  it  de- 
parts from  Coulterville,  and  returns  to  Stockton  about  three 
o'clock  p.  m.j  in  time  for  the  San  Francisco  boats.  Fare  to  the 
Crimea  House,  seven  dollars ;  from  the  Crimea  House,  via  Don 
Pedro's  Bar,  to  Coulterville,  four  dollars. 


THE  YO-SEMITE  VALLEY. 


79 


The  Mariposa  stage  also  leaves  Stockton  at  six  o'clock  a.  m. 
on  alternate  days,  arriving  in  Hornitas  the  same  evening,  and 
Mariposa  about  eleven  a.  m.  the  day  following  ;  through  fare, 
ten  dollars. 

The  Big-Oak  Flat  stage,  via  Sonora  or  Columbia,  leaves  Stock- 
ton daily  at  six  o'clock  a.m.,  reaching  Sonora  or  Columbia  the 
same  evening,  and  on  the  following  day  arrives  at  its  destination, 
about  noon.  Fare  to  Sonora,  eight  dollars  ;  from  Sonora  to  Big- 
Oak  Flat,  three  dollars  and  fifty  cents.  As  we  have  before  re- 
marked, these  rates  of  fare  change  a  little  according  to  the  amount 
of  opposition  between  the  different  stage  companies. 

As  the  route  to  the  valley  at  present  most  travelled,  probably,  is 
via  Stockton  and  Coulterville — although  we  do  not  know  why, 
either  of  the  others  being  equally  agreeable — we  shall  describe 
that  more  fully. 

Leaving  Stockton,  then,  we  journey  over  a  level  and  oak-studded 
plain  for  twelve  miles  before  breakfast,  which  generally  takes 
from  ten  to  twenty  minutes.  Here  we  change  horses.  The 
country,  then,  gradually  becomes  gently  rolling,  and,  although 
covered  with  wild  flowers,  is  almost  barren  of  trees  or  shrubs. 
We  again  change  horses  at  the  Twenty -five  Mile  House.  At 
noon  Ave  reach  Knight's  Ferry,  where  a  group  of  sturdy  miners  is 
congregated  in  front  of  the  hotel,  and  a  bell  announces  that  dinner 
is  ready. 

After  taking  refreshments,  with  loss  of  our  appetites  and  forty- 
five  minutes,  we  not  only  again  change  horses,  but  find  ourselves 
and  our  baggage  changed  to  another  stage — as  the  newest  and  best 
looking  ones  seemed  to  be  retained  for  the  comparatively  level  and 
city  end  of  the  route,  while  the  dust-covered  and  paint-worn  are 
used  for  the  mountains. 

At  the  Crimea  House,  our  u  bags  and  baggage"  are  again  set 
down,  and  after  a  very  agreeable  delay  of  one  hour — during  which 
time  the  obliging  landlord,  Mr.  Brown,  informs  us  that  errors  of 
route  and  distance  had  been  made  by  journalists,  who  were  not 
epiite  familiar  with  their  subject,  and  by  which  those  persons  who 
travel  in  private  carriages  were  liable  to  go  by  La  Grange,  some 


80 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


five  miles  out  of  their  way — a  new  line  as  well  as  conveyance  is 
taken,  known  as  the  "  Sonora  and  Conlterville." 

About  six  o'clock  p.  m.  we  reach  Don  Pedro's  Bar.  But  for  an 
unusual  number  of  passengers,  we  should  most  likely  be  subjected 
to  another  change  of  stage :  now,  fortunately,  the  old  and  regular 
one  will  not  contain  us  all,  so  that  the  only  change  made  is  in 
horses,  and  after  a  delay  of  twelve  minutes,  we  are  dashing  over 
the  Tuolumne  River,  across  a  good  bridge. 

Now  the  gently  rolling  hills  begin  to  give  way  to  tall  moun- 
tains ;  and  the  quiet  and  even  tenor  of  the  landscape  to  change  to 
the  wild  and  picturesque.  Up,  up  we  toil,  many  of  us  on  foot,  as 
our  horses  puff  and  snort  like  miniature  locomotives  from  hauling 
but  little  more  than  the  empty  coach.  The  top  gained,  our  road 
lies  through  forests  of  oak  and  nut  pines,  across  flats,  and  down 
the  sides  of  ravines  and  gulches,  until  we  reach  Maxwell's  Creek ; 
from  which  point  an  excellent  road  is  graded  on  the  side  of  a  steep 
mountain,  to  Conlterville ;  and  all  that  we  seem  to  hope  for,  is 
that  the  stage  will  keep  upon  it,  and  not  tip  over  and  down  into 
the  abyss  that  is  yawning  below.  Up  this  mountain  we  again  have 
to  patronize  the  very  independent  method  of  going  "  afoot ;"  and 
while  ascending  it,  our  party  may  probably  be  startled  by  a  rust- 
ling sound  from  among  the  bushes  below  the  road,  where  shadowy 
human  forms  can  be  seen  moving  slowly  toward  us.  Hearts  beat 
quick,  and  images  of  Joaquin  and  Tom  Bell's  gang  rise  to  our 
active  fancies.  "They  will  rob  and  perhaps  murder  us,"  suggests 
one.  "We  can  die  but  once,"  retorts  another.  "Oh,  dear!  what 
is  going  to  be  the  matter ?"  exclaims  a  third.  "Let  us  all  keep 
close  together,"  pantomimes  a  fourth. 

"That's  a  hard  old  mountain,"  exclaims  the  ringleader  of  a 
party  of  miners,  that  are  climbing  the  steep  sides  of  the  mountain, 
with  their  blankets  at  their  backs,  and  who  have  caused  us  all  our 
alarm,  as  he  and  his  companions  quietly  seat  themselves  by  the 
side  of  the  road.  "Good  evening,  gentlemen."  "Good  evening." 
"  Why,  bless  us,  these  men  who  have  almost  frightened  us  out  of 
our  seven  senses,  are  nothing  but  fellow-travellers!"  "Can't  you 
see  that  ?"  now  valorously  inquires  one  whose  knees  had  knocked 


THE  YO-SEMITE  VALLEY. 


81 


uncontrollably  together  with  fear  only  a  few  moments  before. 
At  this  we  all  laugh  ;  and  the  driver  having  stopped  the  stage, 
says,  "  Get  in,  gentlemen,"  and  we  have  enough  to  talk  and  joke 
about,  until  we  reach  Coulterville.  Here,  by  the  kindness  of  Mr. 
Coulter  (the  founder  of  the  town),  our  much-needed  comforts  are 
duly  cared  for ;  and,  after  making  arrangements  for  an  early  start 
on  the  morrow,  let  us  retire  for  the  night,  Avell  fatigued  with  the 
journey  ;  having  been  upon  the  road  fifteen  hours,  perhaps.  The 
following  table  will  probably  give  an  approximating  idea  of  the 
time  and  distance  made  between  Stockton  and  Coulterville : 

Time  made.  Miles. 


Left  Stockton  at  a  quarter  past  six  a.  m  

From  Stockton  to  Twelve  Mile  House   1.35  12 

From  Stockton  to  Twenty  five  Mile  House    4.15  23 

From  Stockton  to  Foot  Hills   4.35  30 

From  Stockton  to  Knight's  Ferry   5.40  37 

From  Stockton  to  Rock  River  House  including  detention  for  dinner).  . .  7.40  44 

From  Stockton  to  Crimea  House   8.40  48 

Here  we  exchange  stages,  and  delay  one  hour. 

From  Stockton  to  Don  Pedro's  Bar  (including  delay  at  Crimea  House)..  .  11.30  60 
From  Stockton  to  Coulterville  (exchange  horses,  and  delayed  twelve 

minutes)    15.30  .  71 


THE  START. 

Our  first  considerations  the  following  morning  are  for  good 
animals,  provisions,  cooking  utensils,  and  a  guide — the  former 
(all  but  the  good)  are  probably  supplied  by  a  gentleman  who 
rejoices  in  the  uncommon  and  somewhat  ancient  patronymic  of 
Smith,  at  about  twenty-five  dollars  per  head  for  a  trip  of  eight 
clays,  almost  the  original  cost  of  each  animal,  judging  from  their 
build  and  speed. 

For  the  supply  of  provisions  and  cooking  utensils,  Mr.  Coulter 
and  the  guide  will  relieve  us  of  all  anxiety ;  and  at  or  about  a 
quarter  to  nine  the  next  morning,  we  may  be  in  our  saddles  ready 
for  the  start.  How  we  are  attired,  or  armed  ;  what  is  the  impres- 
sion produced  upon  the  bystanders ;  or,  even,  what  is  our  own 
4* 


82  scenes  rsr  California. 


opinion  of  our  personal  appearance,  is  a  matter  of  indifference,  or 
should  be. 


ho!  for  the  yo-semite  valley. 


For  the  first  three  or  four  miles,  our  road  is  up  a  rough,  moun- 
tainous point,  through  dense  chaparal  bushes  that  are  growing  on 
both  sides  of  us,  to  a  high,  bold  ridge  ;  and  from  whence  we  ob- 
tain a  splendid  and  comprehensive  view  of  the  foot-hills  and 
broad  valley  of  the  San  Joaquin.  At  this  point  we  enter  a  vast 
forest  of  pines,  cedars,  firs,  and  oaks,  and  ride  leisurely  among 
their  deep  and  refreshing  shadows,  occasionally  passing  saw-mills, 
or  ox-teams  that  are  hauling  logs  or  lumber,  until,  at  about  half- 
past  one  p.  m.,  twelve  miles  distant  from  Coulterville,  we  reach 

BOWER  CAVE. 

This  is  a  singular  grotto-like  formation,  about  one  hundred  feet 
in  depth  and  length,  and  ninety  feet  in  width,  and  which  is 
entered  by  a  passage  not  more  than  three  feet  six  inches  wide, 
at  the  northern  end  of  an  opening  some  seventy  feet  long  by 
thirteen  feet  wide,  nearly  covered  with  running  vines  and  maple 
trees,  that  grow  out  from  within  the  cave.    "When  these  are 


THK  YO-SEM1TE  VALLEY. 


S3 


BOWER  CAVE. 


drawn  aside,  we  look  into  a  deep  abyss,  at  the  bottom  of  which 
is  a  small  sheet  of  water,  made  shadowy  and  mysterious  by 
overhanging  rocks  and  trees.  On  entering,  we  walk  down  a 
flight  of  fifty-two  steps,  to  a  newly-constructed  wooden  platform, 
and  from  whence  we  can  either  pick  our  way  to  the  water  below, 
or  ascend  another  flight  of  steps  to  a  smaller  cave  above.  But 
although  there  is  a  singular  charm  about  this  spot  that  amply  re- 
pays a  visit,  we  must  not  linger  too  long,  but  pay  our  dollar  (fifty 
cents  too  much),  and,  as  the  day  is  probably  hot,  and  the  ride  a 
novelty,  it  will  be  well  for  us  to  take  a  long  siesta  here,  not  fairly 
starting  before  three  o'clock  p.  at. 

FKOM  BOWER  CAVE  TO  DEEK  FLAT. 

From  this  point  to  "  Black's  Ranch,"  our  five  miles'  ride  is 
delightfully  cool  and  pleasant,  and,  for  the  most  part,  by  gradual 
ascent  up  a  long  gulch,  shaded  in  places  with  a  dense  growth  of 
timber,  and  occasionally  across  a  rocky  point  to  avoid  a  long 
detour  or  difficult  passage.  This  part  of  our  journey  will  occupy 
us  about  two  hours. 

On  account  of  the  steep  hill-side  upon  which  our  trail  now  lies, 
and  the  pious  habits  of  some  of  our  horses,  this  ride  may  be  at- 


84 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


tended  with  some  little  danger,  and  requires — in  consideration  of 
the  value,  on  such  a  trip,  of  a  sound  neck,  if  only  for  the  conve- 
nience of  the  thing — that  we  remember,  and  practice,  too,  the 
Falstaffian  motto  concerning  discretion,  and  take  it  leisurely,  until 
we  arrive  at  Deer  Flat,  six  miles  above  Black's. 

As  there  may  not  be  the  convenience  of  a  hotel  at  this  point, 
it  will  be  well  for  us  to  make  the  best  of  camping  out,  and,  after 
a  good  hearty  meal  has  been  discussed,  commence  preparations 
for  passing  the  night,  as  comfortably  as  possible,  in  our  star-roofed 


CAMPING  AT  DEER  FLAT — NIGHT  SCENE. 


chamber,  which,  on  account  of  the  novelty  of  our  situation,  we 
may  be  kept  until  long  past  midnight 

"  Ere  slumber's  spell  hath  bound  us." 

Deer  Flat  is  a  beautiful  green  valley  of  about  fifteen  or  twenty 
acres,  surrounded  by  an  amphitheatre  of  pines  and  oaks,  and  being 
well  watered,  makes  a  very  excellent  camping-ground.  By  the 
name  given  to  this  place,  we  might  think  that  some  game  prob- 
ably will  reward  an  early  morning's  hunt,  and  accordingly,  about 
daybreak,  sally  out,  prepared  for  dropping  a  good  fat  buck,  and 
find  that  no  living  thing  larger  than  a  dove  can  be  started  up. 


THE  YOSEMITE  VALLEY. 


85 


FROM  DEER  FLAT  TO  CRANE  FLAT. 

It  is  always  well,  on  such  trips,  to  get  an  early  start ;  for, 
although  not  in  possession  of  the  brightest  of  feelings,  either 
mental  or  physical,  we  no  sooner  become  fairly  upon  our  way 
than  the  wild  and  beautiful  scenes  on  every  hand  make  us  forget 
the  broken  slumbers  of  the  night,  and  the  unsatisfactory  breakfast 
of  the  morning.  As  we  journey  on,  we  reach  Hazel  Green  in 
about  two  hours — six  miles  distant  from  Deer  Flat. 

From  this  point  the  distant  landscapes  begin  to  gather  in  in- 
terest and  beauty,  as  we  thread  our  way  through  the  magnificent 
forest  of  pines  on  the  top  of  the  ridge.  Here,  the  green  valley, 
deep  down  on  the  Merced ;  there,  the  snow-clothed  Sierra  Ne- 
vadas,  with  their  rugged  peaks  towering  up  ;  and,  in  the  sheltered 
hollows  of  their  base,  nature's  snow-built  reservoirs  glitter  in  the 
sun.  These  are  glorious  sights,  amply  sufficient  in  themselves  to 
repay  the  fatigue  and  trouble  of  the  journey,  without  the  re- 
maining climax  to  be  reached  when  we  enter  the  wondrous  valley. 
In  about  two  hours  more  we  reach  Crane  Flat,  six  miles  from 
Hazel  Green,  where,  as  there  is  plenty  of  grass  and  water,  we  may 
as  well  take  lunch,  and  a  good  rest. 

It  will  be  necessary,  here,  to  remark  that  this  flat  is  frequently 
used  for  camping  purposes,  for  one  or  more  days,  to  allow  of  an 
opportunity  of  visiting  several  large  trees  that  are  growing  a 
short  distance  below  it.  As  the  reader  would,  no  doubt,  like  to 
visit  these  trees,  we  will  briefly  refer  to  them. 

THE  MAMMOTH  TREES  NEAR  CRANE  FLAT. 

After  leaving  the  flat,  a  slight  detour  to  the  right,  of  about  a 
mile  and  a  half,  will  bring  us  into  the  vicinity  of  these  trees.  They 
consist  of  a  small  cluster  growing  near  the  steep  side  of  a  deep 
canon ;  and  belong  to  the  same  class  as  those  found  in  Calaveras, 
and  three  other  districts.  Two  of  them,  which  grow  from  the 
same  root,  and  unite  a  few  feet  above  the  base,  are,  on  this 
account,  called  "The  Siamese  Twins."  These  are  about  one 
hundred  and  fourteen  feet  in  circumference  at  the  ground,  and, 


86 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


consequently,  about  thirty-eight  feet  in  diameter,  including  both. 
The  bark  has  been  cut  on  one  side  of  one  of  these,  and  found  to 
measure  twenty  inches  in  thickness.  Near  the  "Twins,"  and  in- 
terspersed among  other  trees,  are  five  others  of  the  same  kind.  Two 
of  these  measure  about  seventy-six  feet  in  circumference.  Their 
average  height  is  about  two  hundred  and  fifteen  feet;  and  they 
are  perfectly  straight. 

The  visitor  will  experience  no  difficulty  in  finding  this  small 
grove  of  large  trees,  on  account  of  the  trail  to  them  being  well 
worn.  But  he  will  find  the  journey  somewhat  laborious,  owing 
to  the  steepness  and  length  of  the  descent  and  ascent. 

FROM  CRANE  FLAT  TO  THE  STAND-POINT  OF  SILENCE. 

It  is  difficult  to  say  whether  the  exciting  pleasures  of  antici- 
pation quicken  our  pulses  to  the  more  vigorous  use  of  our  spurs, 
or  that  the  horses  already  smell,  in  imagination  at  least,  the  lux- 
uriant patches  of  grass  in  the  great  valley,  or  that  the  road  is 
better  than  it  has  been  before :  certain  it  is,  from  whatever  cause, 
we  travel  faster  and  easier  than  at  any  previous  time,  and  come 
in  sight  of  the  haze-draped  summits  of  the  mountain-walls  that 
girdle  the  Yo-Semite  Valley,  in  a  couple  of  hours  after  leaving 
Crane  Flat — distance,  nine  miles. 

Now,  it  may  so  happen  that  the  reader  entertains  the  idea  that 
he  can  just  look  upon  a  wonderful  or  an  impressive  scene,  and 
fully  and  accurately  describe  it.  If  so,  we  gratefully  tender  to 
him  the  use  of  our  chair ;  for  we  candidly  confess  that  we  cannot. 
The  truth  is,  the  first  view  of  this  convulsion-rent  valley,  with  its 
perpendicular  mountain  cliffs,  deep  gorges,  and  awful  chasms, 
spread  out  before  us  like  a  mysterious  scroll,  takes  away  the 
power  of  thinking,  much  less  of  clothing  thoughts  with  suitable 
language. 

The  following  words  from  Holy  Writ  will  the  better  convey  the 
impression,  not  of  the  thought,  so  much,  as  the  profound  feeling 
inspired  by  that  scene : 

"And  I  beheld  when  he  had  opened  the  sixth  seal,  and,  lo  !  there 
was  a  great  earthquake ;  and  the  sun  became  black  as  sackcloth 


THE  YO-SEMITE  VALLEY. 


87 


of  hair,  and  the  moon  became  as  blood,  and  the  stars  of  heaven 
fell  unto  the  earth,  even  as  a  fig-tree  casteth  her  untimely  figs, 
when  she  is  shaken  of  a  mighty  wind. 

"  And  the  heaven  departed  as  a  scroll  when  it  is  rolled  together, 
and  every  mountain  and  island  were  moved  out  of  their  places. 

"  And  the  kings  of  the  earth,  and  the  great  men,  and  the  rich 
men,  and  the  chief  captains,  and  mighty  men,  and  every  bond- 
man, and  every  freeman,  hid  themselves  in  the  dens  and  in  the 
rocks  of  the  mountains ;  and  said  to  the  mountains  and  rocks, 
Fall  on  us,  and  hide  us  from  the  face  of  Him  that  sitteth  on  the 
throne,  and  from  the  wrath  of  the  Lamb  ;  for  the  great  day  of  His 
wrath  is  come,  and  who  shall  be  able  to  stand  V 

"This  verily  is  the  stand-point  of  silence!"  at  length  will  escape 
in  whispering  huskiness  from  the  lips  of  one  of  our  number.  "  Let 
us  name  this  spot  The  Stand-Point  of  Silence.''''  And  so  let  it  be 
written  in  the  note-book  of  every  tourist,  as  it  will  be  in  his 
inmost  soul  when  he  looks  at  the  appalling  grandeur  of  the  Yo- 
Semite  Valley  from  this  spot. 

We  would  here  suggest,  that  if  any  visitor  wishes  to  see  this 
valley  in  all  its  awe-inspiring  glory,  let  him  go  down  the  outside 
of  the  ridge  for  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  and  then  descend  the  eastern 
side  of  it  for  three  or  four  hundred  feet,  as  from  this  point  a  high 
wall  of  rock,  at  your  right  hand,  stands  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  river,  that  adds  much  to  the  depth,  and,  consequently,  to  the 
height  of  the  mountains. 

When  the  inexpressible  "  first  impression"  has  been  overcome, 
and  human  tongues  regain  the  power  of  speech,  such  exclamations 
as  the  following  may  find  utterance :  "  Did  mortal  eyes  ever 
behold  such  a  scene  in  any  other  land  ?"  "The  half  had  not  been 
told  us  !"  "  My  heart  is  full  to  overflowing  with  emotion  at  the 
sight  of  so  much  appalling  grandeur  in  the  glorious  works  of 
God!"  "I  am  satisfied!"  "This  sight  is  worth  ten  years  of 
labor,"  etc.,  etc. 

The  following  anecdote  will  help  to  illustrate  the  gratification 
of  witnessing  this  sight : 

"A  young  man,  named  Wadilove,  when  on  his  way  to  the  valley, 


88 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


had  fallen  sick  with  fever  at  Coulterville,  and  who,  consequently, 
had  to  remain  behind  his  party,  became  a  member  of  ours ;  and, 
on  the  morning  of  the  second  day  out,  experiencing  a  relapse,  he 
requested  us  to  leave  him  behind  ;  but,  as  Ave  expressed  our  deter- 
mination to  do  nothing  of  the  kind,  at  great  inconvenience  to  him- 
self, he  continued  to  ride  slowly  along.  When  at  Hazel  Green, 
he  quietly  murmured,  '  I  would  not  have  started  on  this  trip,  and 
suffer  as  much  as  I  have  done  this  day,  for  ten  thousand  dollars.' 
But,  when  he  arrived  at  this  point,  and  looked  upon  the  glorious 
wonders  presented  to  his  view,  he  exclaimed :  '  I  am  a  hundred 
times  repaid  now  for  all  I  have  this  day  suffered,  and  I  would 
gladly  undergo  a  thousand  times  as  much,  could  I  endure  it,  and 
be  able  to  look  upon  another  such  a  scene.'  " 

"  Here  let  me  renew  my  tribute,"  says  Horace  Greeley,  "to  the 
marvellous  bounty  and  beauty  of  the  forests  of  this  whole  mountain 
region.  The  Sierra  Nevadas  lack  the  glorious  glaciers,  the  frequent 
rains,  the  rich  verdure,  the  abundant  cataracts  of  the  Alps ;  but 
they  far  surpass  them — they  surpass  any  other  mountains  I  ever 
saw — in  the  wealth  and  grace  of  their  trees.  Look  down  from  almost 
any  of  their  peaks,  and  your  range  of  vision  is  filled,  bounded,  satis- 
fied, by  what  might  be  termed  a  tempest-tossed  sea  of  evergreens, 
filling  every  upland  valley,  covering  every  hill-side,  crowning 
every  peak,  but  the  highest,  with  their  unfading  luxuriance.  That 
I  saw,  during  this  day's  travel,  many  hundreds  of  pines  eight  feet 
in  diameter,  with  cedars  at  least  six  feet,  I  am  confident ;  and 
there  were  miles  of  such,  and  smaller  trees  of  like  genus,  standing 
as  thick  as  they  could  grow.  Steep  mountain-sides,  allowing 
these  giants  to  grow,  rank  above  rank,  without  obstructing  each 
other's  sunshine,  seem  peculiarly  favorable  to  the  production  of 
these  seviceable  giants.  But  the  Summit  Meadows  are  peculiar 
in  their  heavy  fringe  of  balsam  fir,  of  all  sizes,  from  those  barely 
one  foot  high  to  those  hardly  less  than  two  hundred,  their  branches 
surrounding  them  in  collars,  their  extremities  gracefully  bent  down 
by  the  weight  of  winter  snows,  making  them  here,  I  am  confident, 
the  most  beautiful  trees  on  earth.  The  dry  promontories  which 
separate  these  meadows,  are  also  covered  with  a  species  of  spruce. 


THE  YO-SEMITE  VALLEY. 


89 


which  is  only  less  graceful  than  the  firs  aforesaid.  I  never  before 
enjoyed  such  a  tree-feast  as  on  this  wearing,  difficult  ride." 

THE  DESCENT. 

About  a  mile  further  on,  we  reached  that  point  where  the 

descent  of  the  moun- 


DESCENDING  THE  MOUNTAIN  TO  THE  YO-SEMITE  VALLEY. 


tain  commences,  and 
where  our  guide  re- 
quires us  to  dis- 
mount, while  he  ar- 
ranges the  saddle 
blankets  and  crup- 
pers, and  tightens  the 
saddle-girths.  Some 
persons,  perhaps,  are 
for  walking  down 
this  precipitous  trail 
to  the  valley,  but  the 
guide  informs  us  that 
it  is  nearly  seven 
miles  to  the  foot  of 
the  mountain,  when 
such  a  desire,  for  the 
time  being,  is  over- 
come. 

Yet,  in  some  of 
the  steepest  places  of 
the  trail,  one  or  two 
of  the  most  timid  of 
the  party  will  be  dis- 
posed to  dismount, 
and  walk,  as  at  some 
points  the  descent  is 
certainly  very  trying 
to  the  nerves. 

We  will  here  re- 


90 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


mark  that  there  are  but  three  localities  by  which  this  valley 
can  be  safely  entered — two  at  the  lower  or  Avestern  end,  on 
which  the  Coulterville  and  Mariposa  trails  are  laid  ;  and  one  at 
the  upper  or  eastern  end,  by  a  tributary  of  the  river  which 
makes  in  from  the  main  ridge  of  the  Sierras,  and  which  is  trav- 
elled mostly  by  persons  going  and  returning  to  and  from  the 
Walker's  River  mines. 


RIVER  SCENE  IN  THE  YO-SEMITE  VALLEY,  NEAR  THE  FOOT  OF  THE  TRAIL. 
From  a  Photograph  by  C.  L.  Weed. 

About  two  miles  from  the  "Stand-Point  of  Silence,"  while 
descending  the  mountain,  we  arrive  at  a  rapid  and  beautiful 
cascade,  across  which  is  a  rude  bridge ;  here  we  can  quench  our 
thirst  with  its  deliciously  cool  water.    It  may  be  well  here  to 


THE  YO-SEMITE  VALLEY. 


91 


mention  that  there  is  an  ample  supply  of  excellent  water,  at 
convenient  distances,  the  entire  length  of  the  route,  whether  by 
Coulterville,  Big-Oak  Flat,  or  Mariposa. 

Soon,  another  cascade  is  reached  and  crossed,  and  its  rushing 
heedlessness  of  course  among  rocks,  now  leaping  over  this,  and 
past  that ;  here  giving  a  seething,  there  a  roaring  sound  ;  there 
bubbling,  and  gurgling,  and  smoking,  and  frothing,  will  keep 
some  of  us  looking  and  lingering  until  another  admonition  of 
our  guide  breaks  the  charm,  and  hurries  us  away. 

The  picturesque  wildness  of  the  scene  on  every  hand  ;  the  ex- 
citing wonders  of  so  romantic  a  journey ;  the  difficulties  sur- 
mounted ;  the  dangers  braved  and  overcome,  puts  us  in  possession 
of  one  unanimous  feeling  of  unalloyed  delight ;  so  that  when  we 
reach  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  and  look  upon  the  beautiful  rapids 
of  the  river  rolling  and  swelling  at  the  side  of  the  trail,  while  a 
forest  of  oaks  and  pines  stands  sentinel  on  its  banks,  or  ride  side 
by  side  among  the  trees  in  the  valley,  we  congratulate  each 
other  upon  looking  the  very  picture  of  happiness  personified. 

THE  KIDE  UP  THE  VALLEY. 

Fatigued  as  we  may  be,  every  object  around  us  has  an  interest 
as  we  pass  this  point,  or  watch  that  shadow  slowly  climbing  those 
towering  granite  walls,  when  the  last  rays  of  the  setting  sun  are 
quietly  draping  the  highest  peaks  of  this  wonderful  valley  with  a 
purple  veil  of  hazy  ether ;  or,  as  Mr.  Greeley  expresses  it,  in  his 
interesting  descriptive  visit — 

"That  first  full,  deliberate  gaze  up  the  opposite  height !  can  I 
ever  forget  it  ?  The  valley  is  here  scarcely  half  a  mile  wide, 
while  its  northern  wall  of  mainly  naked,  perpendicular  granite, 
is  at  least  four  thousand  feet  high — probably  more.  But  the 
modicum  of  moonlight  that  fell  into  this  awful  gorge  [Mr.  Gr 
arrived  in  the  night]  gave  to  that  precipice  a  vagueness  of  out. 
line,  an  indefinite  vastness,  a  ghostly  and  weird  spirituality.  Had 
the  mountain  spoken  to  me  in  audible  voice,  or  begun  to  lean 
over  with  the  purpose  of  burying  me  beneath  its  crushing  mass, 
I  should  hardly  have  been  surprised.    Its  whiteness,  thrown  into 


92 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


bold  relief  by  the  patches  of  trees  or  shrubs  which  fringed  or 
flecked  it  wherever  a  few  handfuls  of  its  moss,  slowly  decomposed 
to  earth,  could  contrive  to  hold  on,  continually  suggested  the 
presence  of  snow,  which  suggestion,  with  difficulty  refuted,  was 
at  once  renewed.  And,  looking  up  the  valley,  we  saw  just  such 
mountain  precipices,  barely  separated  by  intervening  water- 
courses of  inconsiderable  depth,  and  only  receding  sufficiently  to 
make  room  for  a  very  narrow  meadow  inclosing  the  river,  to  the 
furthest  limit  of  vision." 


"ELEACHAS,"  OR  THE  THREE  BROTHERS,  3,437   FEET  HIGH. 
From  a  Photograph  by  C.  L.  Weed. 


THE  YO-SEMITE  VALLEY. 


93 


Our  trail,  for  the  most  part,  lies  among  giant  pines,  from  two 
hundred  to  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  height,  and  beneath  the 
refreshing  shade  of  outspreading  oaks  and  other  trees.  Not  a 
sound  breaks  the  expressive  stillness  that  reigns,  save  the  occa- 
sional chirping  and  singing  of  birds  as  they  fly  to  their  nests,  or 
the  low,  distant  sighing  of  the  breeze  in  the  tops  of  the  forest. 
Crystal  streams  occasionally  gurgle  .and  ripple  across  our  path, 
whose  sides  are  fringed  with  willows  and  wild  flowers  that  are 
ever  blossoming,  and  grass  that  is  ever  green.  On  either  side  of 
us  stands  almost  perpendicular  cliffs,  to  the  height  of  thirty-five 
hundred  feet ;  and  on  whose  rugged  faces,  or  in  their  uneven  tops 


DISTANT  VIEW  OF  THE  "POHOXO,"  OR  BRIDAL  VEIL  WATERFALL. 
From  a  Photograph  hy  C.  L.  Weed. 


9i 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


and  sides,  here  and  there  a  stunted  pine  struggles  to  live,  and 
every  crag  seems  crowned  with  some  shrub  or  tree.  The  bright 
sheen  of  the  river  occasionally  glistens  from  among  the  dense 
foliage  of  several  long  vistas  that  continually  open  before  us. 
At  every  step,  some  new  picture  of  great  beauty  presents  itself, 
and  some  new  shapes  and  shadows  from  trees  and  mountains 
form  new  combinations  of  light  and  shade,  in  this  great  kaleido- 
scope of  nature. 

Shortly  after  passing  Tu-toch-ah-nu-lah,  on  our  left,  we  come  in 
sight  of  three  points  which  the  Indians  know  as  "Eleacha," 
named  after  a  plant  much  used  for  food,  but  which  some  lacka- 
daisical person  has  given  the  common-place  name  of  "  The  Three 
Brothers  !"  beyond  which  we  get  the  first  glimpse  of  the  upper 
part  of  the  Cho-looke  (the  Indian  name),  or  Yo-Semite  Water-Fall. 

Perhaps  we  ought  previously  to  have  mentioned  that  the  first 
water-fall  of  any  magnitude  which  strikes  our  attention  on  en- 
tering the  valley — and,  indeed,  on  several  occasions  before  reach- 
ing the  bottom  land  of  the  valley — is  the  "  Pohono"  (Indian 


THE  FERRY. 
From  a  Photograph  by  C.  L.  Weed. 


THE  Y0-SEMITE  VALLEY. 


95 


name),  or  "  Bridal  Veil"  Fall,  and  wliicli  we  shall  more  fully 
describe  when  we  take  a  near  view  of  it. 

Surrounded  by  such  scenes  of  loveliness  and  sublimity,  we  feel 
a  reluctance  to  break  the  charm  they  throw  upon  us  by  any 
speech  ;  when  some  one  is  almost  sure  to  cry  out — "  The  Ferry." 
Here  the  river  is  about  sixty  feet  wide,  and  twelve  feet  deep — 
across  which  we  can  be  speedily  conveyed  on  a  good  boat,  at  the 
rate  of  thirty-seven  and  a  half  cents  per  head  for  men,  women, 
and  animals. 

Below  we  append  a  table  of  distances,  and  the  probable  time 
consumed  in  making  the  trip  from  Coulterville : 


Time  of  Resting  & 

Travel,  camping.  Distance, 

h.  m.  h.  m.  miles. 

From  Coulterville  to  Bower  Cave                                              4  25  . .  12 

Rest  at  the  Cave   3  00 

From  the  Cave  to  Black's  Inn                                                2  00  . .  5 

Rest  at  Black's    0  40 

From  Black's  to  Deer  Flat                                                  1  45  . .  6 

Camp  for  the  night  at  Deer  Flat,  from  9  p.  m.,  till  7  a.  m   1 1  50 

From  Deer  Flat  to  Hazel  Green                                           2  00  . .  6 

Rest  at  Hazel  Green   0  25 

From  Hazel  Green  to  Crane  Flat                                            1  30  .  .  6 

Rest  and  luncli  at  Crane  Flat   2  00 

From  Crane  Flat  to  "Stand-Point  of  Silence"                          2  10  . .  9 

Stop  at  "Stand-Point  of  Silence"   0  45 

From  "Stand-Point  of  Silence,"  to  Second  Cascade  Bridge   ..  2 

From  Second  Cascade  to  foot  of  trail  into  valley                    .     .  .  . .  5 

From  foot  of  trail  to  Upper  Hotel   . .  C 

From  "  Stand-Point  of  Silence"  to  Upper  Hotel  515 

Total  time  of  travel  19    5  17  5 

Total  time  of  resting  and  camping  17  5 

Total  time  from  Coulterville  to  hotel  in  valley.  ...3G  10 

Total  distance   57 


About  a  third  of  a  mile  above  the  ferry,  we  arrive  at  Cunning- 
ham's store  and  boarding-house — where  its  obliging  owner  will  do 
all  in  his  power  to  make  us  feel  at  home ;  who  is  as  well,  if  not 
better,  informed  concerning  the  name  and  history  of  every  point 
in  this  valley  than  any  man  in  the  country,  and  to  whom  we  are 


96 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


indebted  for  much  valuable  information.  Here  we  get  a  full  and 
excellent  view  of  Sentinel  Rock  on  our  right,  and  the  Cho-looke 
or  Yo-Semite  Fall  on  our  left — the  highest  in  the  valley ;  but, 
as  by  this  time  it  may  be  getting  late,  if  we  wish  to  go  to  the 
Upper,  or  Kite's  Hotel,  half  a  mile  higher  up,  we  must  reserve 
further  description  for  another  occasion. 

THE  FIRST  NIGHT  IN  THE  VALLEY. 

After  the  fatigue  and  excitement  of  the  ride,  and  the  novel  cir- 
cumstances and  broken  slumbers  of  the  past  nights,  it  is  natural 
to  suppose  that  when  we  reach  the  valley,  and  quietly  encamp, 
our  rest  will  be  both  deep  and  refreshing;  but  experience  will 
prove  that  this  supposition  is  altogether  too  favorable — for,  owing 
to  the  musquitos  having  recently  given  a  series  of  very  successful 
concerts  in  the  valley,  as  reported  by  other  travellers,  we  find  that 
they  are  now  in  high  spirits,  and  have  a  playful  habit  of  alighting 
on  and  piercing  our  noses  and  foreheads,  to  keep  us  awake,  that 
we  may  not  lose  a  single  note  of  their  nocturnal  serenade. 

Then,  weary  as  we  are,  it  seems  such  a  luxury  to  lie  awake  and 
listen  to  the  splashing,  washing,  roaring,  surging,  hissing,  seething 
sound  of  the  great  Yo-Semite  Falls,  just  opposite ;  or  to  pass 
quietly  out  of  a  sheltering-place,  and  look  up  between  the  lofty 
pines  and  spreading  oaks,  to  the  granite  cliffs,  that  tower  up,  with 
such  majesty  of  form  and  boldness  of  outline,  against  the  vast 
etherial  vault  of  heaven ;  or  watch,  in  the  moonlight,  the  ever- 
changing  shapes  and  shadows  of  the  water,  as  it  leaps  the  cloud- 
draped  summit  of  the  mountain,  and  falls  in  gusty  torrents  on  the 
unyielding  granite,  to  be  dashed  to  an  infinity  of  atoms.  Then  to 
return  to  our  fern-leaf  couch,  and  dream  of  some  tutelary  genius, 
of  immense  proportions,  extending  over  us  his  protecting  arms — 
of  his  admonishing  the  water-fall  to  modulate  the  music  of  its 
voice  into  some  gently  soothing  lullaby,  that  we  may  sleep  and 
be  refreshed. 

Some  time  before  the  sun  can  get  a  good,  honest  look  at  us, 
deep  down  as  we  are  in  this  awful  chasm,  we  see  him  painting 
his  rosy  smiles  upon  the  ridges,  and  etching  lights  and  shadows 


THE  YO-SEMITE  VALLEY. 


97 


in  the  furrows  of  the  mountain's  brow,  as  though  he  took  a  pride 
in  showing  up,  to  the  best  advantage,  the  wrinkles  time  had  made 
upon  it ;  but  all  of  us  feel  too  fatigued  fully  to  enjoy  the  thrilling 
grandeur  and  beauty  that  surrounds  us. 

Here  it  will  not  be  out  of  place  to  remark  that  ladies  or  gentle- 
men— especially  the  former — who  visit  this  valley  to  look  upon 
and  appreciate  its  wonders,  and  make  it  a  trip  of  pleasurable  en- 
joyment, should  not  attempt  its  accomplishment  in  less  than  three 
days  from  Mariposa,  Coulterville,  or  Big-Oak  Flat.  If  this  is  re- 
membered, the  enjoyment  of  the  visit  will  be  more  than  doubled. 

KIDE  TO  THE  (  UO-LOOKE  OK  YO-SEMITE  FALL. 

After  a  substantial  breakfast,  made  palatable  by  that  most  ex- 
cellent of  sauces,  a  good  appetite.  Our  guide  announces  that 
the  horses  are  ready,  and  the  saddle-bags  well  stored  with  such 
good  things  as  will  commend  themselves  acceptably  to  our  at- 
tention about  noon ;  and  that  the  first  place  to  visit  is  the 
Yo-Semite  Fall. 

Crossing  a  rude  bridge  over  the  main  stream,  which  is  here 
about  sixty  feet  in  width,  and  nine  in  depth,  we  keep  down  the 
northern  bank  of  the  river  for  a  short  distance,  to  avoid  a  large 
portion  of  the  valley  in  front  of  the  hotel,  that  is  probably  over- 
flowed with  water.  On  either  side  of  our  trail,  in  several  places, 
such  is  the  luxuriant  growth  of  the  ferns,  that  they  are  above  our 
shoulders  as  we  ride  through  them. 

Presently  we  reach  one  of  the  most  beautifully  picturesque  scenes 
that  eye  ever  saw.  It  is  the  ford.  The  oak,  dogwood,  maple, 
cottonwood,  and  other  trees,  form  an  arcade  of  great  beauty  over 
the  sparkling,  rippling,  pebbly  stream,  and,  in  the  back-ground, 
the  lower  fall  of  the  Yo-Semite  is  dropping  its  sheet  of  snowy 
sheen  behind  a  dark  middle  distance  of  pines  and  hemlocks. 

As  the  snow  rapidly  melts  beneath  the  fiery  strength  of  a  hot 
summer  sun,  a  large  body  of  water,  most  probably,  is  rushing 
past,  forming  several  small  streams — which,  being  comparatively 
shallow,  are  easily  forded.  When  within  about  a  hundred  and 
fifty  yards  of  the  fall,  as  numerous  large  boulders  begin  to  inter- 
5 


98 


SCENES   IN  CALIFORNIA. 


THE  FORD  OF  THE  YO-SKM1TE. 
From  a  Photograph  by  C.  L.  Weed, 


cept  our  progress,  we  may  as  well  dismount,  and,  after  fastening 
our  animals  to  some  young  trees,  make  our  way  up  to  it  on  foot- 
Now  a  change  of  temperature  soon  becomes  perceptible,  as  we 
advance ;  and  the  almost  oppressive  heat  of  the  centre  of  the 
valley  is  gradually  changing  to  that  of  chilliness.  But  up,  up,  we 
climb,  over  this  rock,  and  past  that  tree,  until  we  reach  the  foot, 
or  as  near  as  we  can  advance  to  it,  of  the  great  Yo-Semite  Fall, 
when  a  cold  draught  of  air  rushes  down  upon  us  from  above, 
about  equal  in  strength  to  an  eight  knot  breeze;  bringing  with  it 
a  heavy  shower  of  finely  comminuted  spray,  that  falls  with  suf- 
ficient force  to  saturate  our  clothing  in  a  few  moments.  From 


1.EAB  VIEW  OF  THE  TO-SEMITE  FALLS.— 2,550  FEET  IN  HEIGHT. 
F.'Om  <7  Phntngmph  hy  C.  L.  Weed. 


100 


SCENES   IN  CALIFORNIA, 


this  a  beautiful  phenomenon  is  observable — inasmuch  as,  after 
striking  our  hats,  the  diamond-like  mist  shoots  off  at  an  angle  of 
about  thirty-five  or  forty  degrees,  and  as  the  sun  shines  upon  it,  a 
number  of  miniature  rainbows  are  formed  all  round  us. 

Those  who  have  never  visited  this  spot,  must  not  suppose  that 
the  cloud-like  spray  that  descends  upon  us  is  the  main  fall  itself, 
broken  into  infinitesimal  particles,  and  becomes  nothing  but  a 
sheet  of  cloud.  By  no  means ;  for,  although  this  stream  shoots 
over  the  margin  of  the  mountain,  nearly  seven  hundred  feet 
above,  it  falls  almostin  a  solid  body — not  in  a  continuous  stream 
exactly,  but  having  a  close  resemblance  to  an  avalanche  of  snowy 
rockets  that  appear  to  be  perpetually  trying  to  overtake  each 
other  in  their  descent,  and  mingle  the  one  into  the  other,  the  whole 
composing  a  torrent  of  indescribable  power  and  beauty. 

Huge  boulders,  and  large  masses  of  sharp,  angular  rocks,  are 
scattered  here  and  there,  forming  the  uneven  sides  of  an  immense, 
and  apparently  ever-boiling  cauldron ;  around  and  in  the  inter- 
stices of  which  numerous  dwarf  ferns,  weeds,  grasses,  and  flowers, 
are  ever  growing,  where  not  actually  washed  by  the  falling 
stream. 

It  is  beyond  the  power  of  language  to  describe  the  awe-inspir- 
ing majesty  of  the  darkly-frowning  and  overhanging  mountain 
walls  of  solid  granite  that  here  hem  us  in  on  every  side,  as  though 
they  would  threaten  us  with  instantaneous  destruction,  if  not  total 
annihilation,  did  we  attempt  for  a  moment  to  deny  their  power. 
If  man  ever  feels  his  utter  insignificance  at  any  time,  it  is  when 
looking  upon  such  a  scene  of  appalling  grandeur  as  this  here 
presented. 

The  point  from  whence  the  photograph  was  taken  from  which 
our  engraving  is  made — being  almost  underneath  the  fall — might 
lead  to  the  supposition  that  the  lower  section,  which  embraces 
more  than  two-thirds  of  the  picture,  was  the  highest  of  the  two 
seen  ;  when,  in  fact,  the  lower  one,  according  to  the  measure- 
ments of  Mr.  Denman,  superintendent  of  Public  Schools  in  San 
Francisco  ;  of  Mr.  Peterson,  the  engineer  of  the  Mariposa  and 
Yo-Semite  Water  Company ;  and  of  Mr.  Long,  county  surveyor, 


THE  YO-SEMITE  VALLEY. 


101 


is  about  seven  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  valley,  while 
the  upper  fall  is  about  one  thousand  four  hundred  and  forty-eight 
feet,  and  between  the  two,  measuring  about  four  hundred  feet,  is 
a  series  of  rapids  rather  than  a  fall,  giving  the  total  height  of  the 
entire  fall  at  two  thousand  five  hundred  and  forty-eight  feet. 

After  lingering  here  for  several  hours,  with  inexpressible  feel- 
ings of  suppressed  astonishment  and  delight,  qualified  and  in- 
tensified by  veneration,  we  may  take  a  long  and  reluctant  last 
upward  gaze,  convinced  that  we  shall  "  never  look  upon  its  like 
again,"  until  we  pay  it  another  visit  at  some  future  time ;  and, 
making  the  best  of  our  way  to  where  our  horses  are  tied,  proceed 
to  endorse  the  truthfulness  of  the  prognostications  of  our  guide  in 
the  morning  before  starting,  concerning  appetites  and  lunch. 
This  being  despatched,  it  will  be  well  for  us  to  continue  our  ride, 
and  pay  a 

VISIT  TO  LAKE  AII-WI-YA1I. 

Leaving  the  Yo-Semite  Falls,  we  recross  the  ford,  and  thread 
our  way  through  the  far-stretching  vistas  of  luxuriant  green  that 
open  before  us  :  the  bright  sunlight  and  sombre  shadows  ever 
winking  and  twinkling  upon  the  sparkling  and  gurgling  stream 
and  dimly-defined  trail ;  until  we  emerge  on  a  grassy  and  flower- 
covered  plateau  on  the  north  side  of  the  valley,  near  the  base  of 
the  great  North  Dome,  called  by  the  Indians  "To-coy-ae."  This 
mountain  of  naked  granite,  with  scarcely  a  tree  or  shrub  growing 
from  a  single  crevice,  towers  above  you  to  the  height  of  three 
thousand  seven  hundred  and  twenty-five  feet.  Its  sides  are  nearly 
perpendicular  for  more  than  two  thousand  feet,  and  in  which  a 
colossal  arch  is  formed,  doubtless  from  the  falling  of  several 
sections  of  the  rock.  This  has  been  designated  the  "  Royal  Arch 
of  To-coy-se."  This,  we  believe,  has  never  been  measured  ;  but 
we  should  judge  its  altitude,  from  the  valley  to  the  crown  of 
the  arch,  to  be  about  one  thousand  seven  hundred  feet,  and  its 
span  about  two  thousand  feet ;  its  depth  in,  from  the  face  of  the 
rock,  is  about  eighty  or  ninety  feet.  There  is  one  additional 
feature  here  that  should  not  be  overlooked,  and  that  is  the  small 
streams  of  water  that  leap  down  over  it,  like  falling  strings  of 


102 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


pearls  and  diamonds.  These  add  much,  in  early  spring,  to  the 
attractiveness  of  the  scene. 

Having  crossed  the  plateau,  we  ride  over  some  rocky  hillocks, 
and  among  a  park-like  array  of  oak  trees,  until  Ave  arrive  at  Lake 
Ah-wi-yah,  so  named  and  known  hy  the  Indians,  hut  which  has 


LAKE  AH-WI-YAH. 


been  newly  christened  hy  American  visitors  "  Lake  Hiawatha,'1 
"  Mirror  Lake,"  and  several  others,  which,  though  pretty  enough, 
are  equally  common-place  and  unsuitable.  But  of  this  we  shall 
have  something  to  say  in  another  chapter. 

This  lake,  although  a  charming  little  sheet  of  crystal  water  of 
almost  a  couple  of  acres  in  extent,  in  which  numerous  schools  of 
speckled  trout  may  be  seen  gaily  disporting  themselves,  would 
be  unworthy  of  a  notice,  but  for  the  picturesque  grandeur  of  its 
surroundings.  On  the  north  and  west  lie  immense  rocks  that 
have  become  detached  from  the  tops  of  the  mountain  above ; 


THE  YO-SEAIITE  VALLEY. 


103 


among  these  grow  a  large  variety  of  trees  and  shrubs,  many  of 
which  stand  on  and  overhang  the  margin  of  the  lake,  and  are 
reflected  on  its  mirror-like  bosom.  To  the  north-east  opens  a  vast 
gorge  or  canon,  down  which  impetuously  rush  the  waters  of  the 
north  fork  of  the  Merced,  which  debouches  into  and  supplies  the 
lake. 

On  the  south-east  stands  the  majestic  Mount  Tis-sa-ack,  or 
"  South  Dome,"  four  thousand  five  hundred  and  ninety-three  feet 
in  altitude  above  the  valley.  Almost  one-half  of  this  immense 
mass,  either  from  some  convulsion  of  nature,  or 

"Time's  effacing  fingers," 

has  fallen  over,  by  which,  most  probably,  the  dam  for  this  lake 
was  first  formed.  Yet  proudly,  aye,  defiantly  erect,  it  still  holds 
its  noble  head,  and  is  not  only  the  highest  of  all  those  around, 
but  is  the  greatest  attraction  of  the  valley.  Moreover,  in  this  are 
centred  many  agreeable  associations  to  the  Indian  mind  ;  as  here 
was  once  the  traditionary  ■  home  of  the  guardian  spirit  of  the 
valley,  the  angel-like  and  beautiful  Tis-sa-ack,  and  after  whom 
her  devoted  Indian  worshippers  named  this  gloriously  majestic 
mountain.  While  we  sit  in  the  shade  of  these  fine  old  trees,  and 
look  upon  all  the  objects  around  us,  mirrored  on  the  unruffled 
bosom  of  the  lake,  let  us  relate  the  following  interesting  legend 
of  Tu-toch-ah-nu-lah,  after  whom  the  vast  perpendicular  and 
massive  projecting  rock  at  the  lower  end  of  the  valley  was 
named,  and  with  which  is  interwoven  this  history  of  Tis-sa-ack. 

This  legend  was  told  in  an  eastern  journal,  by  a  gentleman 
residing  here,  who  signs  himself  "  Iota,"  and  who  received  it  from 
the  lips  of  an  old  Indian ;  the  relation  of  which,  although  several 
points  of  interest  are  omitted,  will,  nevertheless,  prove  very 
entertaining : 

THE  LEGEND  OF  TTJ-TOCH-AH-NU-LAH   AND  TIS-SA-ACK. 

"  It  was  in  the  unremembered  past  that  the  children  of  the  sun 
first  dwelt  in  Yo-Semite.  Then  all  was  happiness  ;  for  Tu-toch-ah- 
nu-lah  sat  on  high  in  his  rocky  home,  and  cared  for  the  people 


104 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


whom  he  loved.  Leaping  over  the  upper  plains,  he  herded  the 
wild  deer,  that  the  people  might  choose  the  fattest  for  the  feast. 
He  roused  the  bear  from  his  cavern  in  the  mountain,  that  the 
brave  might  hunt.  From  his  lofty  rock  he  prayed  to  the  Great 
Spirit,  and  brought  the  soft  rain  upon  the  corn  in  the  valley. 
The  smoke  of  his  pipe  curled  into  the  air,  and  the  golden  sun 
breathed  warmly  through  its  blue  haze,  and  ripened  the  crops, 
that  the  women  might  gather  them  in.  When  he  laughed,  the 
face  of  the  winding  river  was  rippled  with  smiles  ;  when  he 
sighed,  the  wind  swept  sadly  through  the  singing  pines  ;  if  he 
spoke,  the  sound  was  like  the  deep  voice  of  the  cataract ;  and 
when  he  smote  the  far-striding  bear,  his  whoop  of  triumph  rang 
from  crag  to  gorge — echoed  from  mountain  to  mountain.  His 
form  was  straight  like  the  arrow,  and  elastic  like  the  bow.  His 
foot  was  swifter  than  the  red  deer,  and  his  eye  Avas  strong  and 
bright  like  the  rising  sun. 

"  But  one  morning,  as  he  roamed,  a  bright  vision  came  before 
him,  and  then  the  soft  colors  of  the  West  were  in  his  lustrous 
eye.  A  maiden  sat  upon  the  southern  granite  dome  that  raises  its 
gray  head  among  the  highest  peaks.  She  was  not  like  the  dark 
maidens  of  the  tribe  below,  for  the  yellow  hair  rolled  over  her 
dazzling  form,  as  golden  waters  over  silver  rocks ;  her  brow 
beamed  with  the  pale  beauty  of  the  moonlight,  and  her  blue  eyes 
were  as  the  far-off'  hills  before  the  sun  goes  down.  Her  little 
foot  shone  like  the  snow-tufts  on  the  wintry  pines,  and  its  arch 
was  like  the  spring  of  a  bow.  Two  cloud-like  wings  wavered 
upon  her  dimpled  shoulders,  and  her  voice  was  as  the  sweet,  sad 
tone  of  the  night-bird  of  the  woods. 

"  '  Tu-toch-ah-nu-lah,'  she  softly  whispered  ;  then  gliding  up  the 
rocky  dome,  she  vanished  over  its  rounded  top.  Keen  was  the 
eye,  quick  was  the  ear,  swift  was  the  foot  of  the  noble  youth  as 
he  sped  up  the  rugged  path  in  pursuit ;  but  the  soft  down  from 
her  snowy  wings  was  wafted  into  his  eyes,  and  he  saw  her  no 
more. 

"  Every  morning  now  did  the  enamored  Tu-toch-ah-nu-lah  leap 
the  stony  barriers,  and  wander  over  the  mountains,  to  meet  the 


THE  YO-SEMITE  VALLEY. 


105 


lovely  Tis-sa-ack.  Each  day  lie  laid  sweet  acorns  and  wild  flowers 
upon  her  dome.  His  ear  caught  her  footstep,  though  it  was  light 
as  the  falling  leaf;  his  eye  gazed  upon  her  beautiful  form,  and 
into  her  gentle  eyes  ;  hut  never  did  he  speak  before  her,  and 
never  again  did  her  sweet-toned  voice  fall  upon  his  ear.  Thus 
did  he  love  the  fair  maid,  and  so  strong  was  his  thought  of  her 
that  he  forgot  the  crops  of  Yo-Semite,  and  they,  without  rain, 
wanting  his  tender  care,  cpiickly  drooped  their  heads,  and  shrunk. 
The  wind  whistled  mournfully  through  the  wild  corn,  the  wild 
bee  stored  no  more  honey  in  the  hollow  tree,  for  the  flowers  had 
lost  their  freshness,  and  the  green  leaves  became  brown.  Tu-toch- 
ah-nu-lah  saw  none  of  this,  for  his  eyes  were  dazzled  by  the  shin- 
ing wings  of  the  maiden.  But  Tis-sa-ack  looked  with  sorrowing 
eyes  over  the  neglected  valley,  when  early  in  the  morning  she 
stood  upon  the  gray  dome  of  the  mountain  ;  so,  kneeling  on  the 
smooth,  hard  rock,  the  maiden  besought  the  Great  Spirit  to  bring 
again  the  bright  flowers  and  delicate  grasses,  green  trees,  and 
nodding  acorns. 

"Then,  with  an  awful  sound,  the  dome  of  granite  opened 
beneath  her  feet,  and  the  mountain  was  riven  asunder,  while  the 
melting  snows  from  the  Nevada  gushed  through  the  wonderful 
gorge.  Quickly  they  formed  a  lake  between  the  perpendicular 
walls  of  the  cleft  mountain,  and  sent  a  sweet  murmuring  river 
through  the  valley.  All  then  was  changed.  The  birds  dashed 
their  little  1  todies  into  the  pretty  pools  among  the  grasses,  and 
fluttering  out  again,  sang  for  delight  ;  the  moisture  crept  silently 
through  the  parched  soil  ;  the  flowers  sent  up  a  fragrant  incense 
of  thanks;  the  corn  gracefully  raised  its  drooping  head  ;  and  the 
sap,  with  velvet  footfall,  ran  up  into  the  trees,  giving  life  and 
energy  to  all.  But  the  maid,  for  whom  the  valley  had  suffered, 
and  through  whom  it  had  been  again  clothed  with  beauty,  had 
disappeared  as  strangely  as  she  came.  Yet,  that  all  might  hold 
her  memory  in  their  hearts,  she  left  the  quiet  lake,  the  winding 
river,  and  yonder  half-dome,  which  still  bears  her  name,  '  Tis-sa- 
acTi.'  It  is  said  to  be  four  thousand  five  hundred  feet  high,  and 
every  evening  it  catches  the  last  rosy  rays  that  are  reflected  from 
5* 


106 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


the  snowy  peaks  above.  As  slie  flew  away,  small  downy  feathers 
were  wafted  from  her  wings,  and  where  they  fell — on  the  margin 
of  the  lake — you  will  now  see  thousands  of  little  white  violets. 

"  When  Tu-toch-ah-nu-lah  knew  that  she  was  gone,  he  left  his 
rocky  castle  and  wandered  away  in  search  of  his  lost  love.  But 
that  the  Yo-Semites  might  never  forget  him,  with  the  hunting- 
knife  in  his  hold  hand,  he  carved  the  outlines  of  his  noble  head 
upon  the  face  of  the  rock  that  bears  his  name.  And  there  they 
still  remain,  three  thousand  feet  in  the  air,  guarding  the  entrance 
to  the  beautiful  valley  which  had  received  his  loving  care." 

By  this  time  the  rapidly  declining  sun,  and  an  admonishing 
voice  from  our  organs  of  digestion,  are  both  persuasive  influences 
to  recommend  an  early  departure  for  the  hotel  and  dinner,  and 
which,  we  need  not  add,  will  be  promptly  responded  to. 

As  we  sit  in  the  stillness  and  twilight  of  evening,  thinking  over 
and  conversing  about  the  wondrous  scenes  our  eyes  have  looked 
upon  this  day ;  or  listen,  in  silence,  to  the  deep  music  of  the  dis- 
tant waterfalls,  our  hearts  seem  full  to  overflowing  with  a  sense 
of  the  grandeur,  wildness,  beauty,  and  profoundness  to  be  felt  and 
enjoyed  when  communing  with  the  glorious  works  of  nature, 
which  call  to  mind  those  expressive  lines  of  Moore : 

"The  earth  shall  be  my  fragrant  shrine  ; 
My  temple,  Lord !  that  arch  of  thine  ; 
My  censer's  breath,  the  mountain  airs ; 
And  silent  thoughts,  my  only  prayers." 

THE  "  POHONO"  OK  BRIDAL  VEIL  WATERFALL. 

Visitors  generally  prefer  paying  a  visit  to  the  Pohono  Fall, 
before  undertaking  those  of  greater  difficulty  at  the  upper  end  of 
the  valley,  that  they  may  become  somewhat  better  rested  from 
the  fatigue  of  the  journey.  Let  us,  therefore,  not  be  out  of  the 
fashion,  but  take  a  quiet  ride  down  the  south  side  of  the  valley 
at  once ;  and  the  first  point  of  striking  interest  we  shall  notice  on 
our  left  will  be  Sentinel  Rock,  a  lofty  and  solitary  peak,  upon 
Avhich  the  watch-fires  of  the  Indians  have  often  been  lighted  to 


THE  YO-SRMITK  VALLEY. 


107 


SENTINEL  ROCK,   3,270  FEET  HIGH. 


give  warning  of  approaching  danger ;  and  which  can  readily  be 
seen  from  all  the  principal  points  within  and  around  the  valley. 

Further  on,  we  see  a  singular  group  of  peaks,  that  will  resemble 
almost  any  thing  we  can  conjure  up,  according  to  the  time  of  day 
we  may  be  passing,  as  every  change  in  the  position  of  the  sun  will 
give  a  new  set  of  shadows ;  but  that  which  it  most  resembles,  is 
the  dilapidated  front  of  some  grand  old  cathedral,  with  towers 
and  buttresses ;  and,  in  one  place,  a  circle  that  a  strong  imagina- 
tion can  make  into  a  clock,  which  will  indicate  the  time  of  day  to 
a  moment ! 

This  passed,  we  come  in  front  of  the  Pohono  Fall.  After 
threading  our  way  among  trees  and  bushes,  over  rocks  and  water- 
courses, it  becomes  necessary  that  we  should  dismount,  and  tie 


108 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


our  animals,  as  the  remaining  distance  is  over  a  rough  ascent  of 
rocks,  which  will  have  to  be  accomplished  on  foot.  As  this  is 
short,  we  shall  thread  our  way  among  bushes  and  boulders,  with- 
out much  difficulty,  until  the  heavy  spray  from  the  fall  saturates 
our  clothing,  and  the  velvety  softness  of  the  moist  grasses  growing 
upon  the  little  ridge  we  have  climbed,  reminds  us  that  the  goal  of 
our  desire  is  reached. 

It  is  impossible  to  portray  the  feeling  of  awe,  wonder,  and  ad- 
miration— almost  amounting  to  adoration — that  thrills  our  very 
souls  as  we  look  upon  this  enchanting  scene.  The  gracefully  un- 
dulating and  wavy  sheets  of  spray  that  fall  in  gauze-like  and 
ethereal  folds ;  now  expanding,  now  contracting;  now  glittering 
in  the  sunlight,  like  a  veil  of  diamonds;  now  changing  into  one 
vast  and  many-colored  cloud,  that  throws  its  misty  drapery  over 
the  falling  torrent,  as  if  in  very  modesty,  to  veil  its  unspeakable 
beauty  from  our  too  eagerly  admiring  sight. 

In  order  to  see  this  to  the  best  advantage,  the  eye  should  take 
in  only  the  foot  of  the  fall  at  first ;  then  a  short  section  upward ; 
then  higher,  until,  by  degrees,  the  top  is  reached.  In  this  way  the 
majesty  of  the  waterfall  is  more  fully  realized  and  appreciated. 

The  stream  itself — about  forty  feet  in  width — resembles  an 
avalanche  of  watery  rockets,  that  shoots  out  over  the  precipice 
above  you,  at  the  height  of  nearly  nine  hundred  feet,  and  then  leaps 
down  in  one  unbroken  train  to  the  immense  cauldron  of  boulders 
beneath,  where  it  surges  and  boils  in  its  angry  fury,  throwing  up 
large  volumes  of  spray,  over  which  the  sun  forms  two  or  more 
magnificent  rainbows  which  arch  the  abyss. 

Like  most  other  tributaries  of  the  main  middle  fork  of  the  Mer- 
ced, this  stream  falls  very  low  toward  the  close  of  the  summer, 
but  is  seldom,  if  ever,  entirely  dry.  When  we  visited  the  valley 
in  July,  1855,  this  branch  did  not  contain  more  than  one-tenth 
the  water  usually  seen  in  the  month  of  May  or  June. 

The  river  has  its  origin  in  a  lake  at  the  foot  of  a  bold,  crescent- 
shaped,  perpendicular  rock,  about  thirteen  miles  above  the  edge 
of  the  Pohono  Fall.  On  this  lake  a  strong  wind  is  said  to  be  con- 
tinually blowing ;  and,  as  several  Indians  have  lost  their  lives 


THIS  YO-SISMITE  VALLEY. 


109 


there  and  in  the  stream,  their  exceedingly  acute  and  superstitious 
imaginations  have  made  it  bewitched. 

An  Indian  woman  was  out  gathering  seeds,  a  short  distance 
above  these  falls,  when,  by  some  mishap,  she  lost  her  balance  and 
fell  into  the  stream,  and  the  force  of  the  current  carried  her 
down  with  such  velocity,  that  before  any  assistance  could  be 
rendered,  she  was  swept  over  the  precipice,  and  was  never  seen 
afterward. 

"  Pohono,"  from  whom  the  stream  and  the  waterfall  received 
their  musical  Indian  name,  is  an  evil  spirit,  whose  breath  is  a 
blighting  and  fatal  wind,  and,  consequently,  is  to  be  dreaded  and 
shunned.  On  this  account,  whenever,  from  necessity,  the  Indians 
have  to  pass  it,  a  feeling  of  distress  steals  over  them,  and  they  fear 
it  as  much  as  the  wandering  Arab  does  the  simooms  of  the  African 
desert ;  they  hurry  past  it  at  the  height  of  their  speed.  To  point 
at  the  waterfall,  when  travelling  in  the  valley,  to  their  minds,  is 
certain  death.  No  inducement  could  be  offered  sufficiently  large 
to  tempt  them  to  sleep  near  it.  In  fact,  they  believe  that  they 
hear  the  voices  of  those  that  have  been  drowned  there,  perpet- 
ually warning  them  to  shun  "  Pohono." 

How  much  more  desirable  is  it  to  perpetuate  these  expressive 
Indian  names — many  of  which  embody  the  superstitious  and 
highly  imaginative  characteristics  of  the  Indian  mind — than  to 
give  them  Anglicized  ones,  be  they  ever  so  pretty.  We  think  the 
name  of  "Bridal  Veil  Fall"  is  not  only  by  far  the  most  musical 
and  suitable  of  any  or  of  all  others  yet  given,  but  is  the  only  one 
that  is  worthy  of  the  object  named ;  and  yet,  we  confess  that  we 
should  much  prefer  the  beautiful  and  expressive  Indian  name  of 
"  Pohono"  to  that  of  '<  Bridal  Veil." 

The  vertical,  and,  at  some  points,  overhanging  mountains  on 
either  side  of  the  Pohono,  possess  quite  as  much  interest  as  the  fall 
itself,  and  add  much  to  the  grandeur  and  magnificence  of  the 
whole  scene.  A  tower-shaped  rock,  about  three  thousand  feet  in 
height,  standing  at  the  south-west  side  of  the  fall,  and  nearly  op- 
posite "  Tu-toch-ah-nu-lah,"  has  on  its  top  a  number  of  projecting 
rocks  that  very  much  resemble  canon.    In  order  to  assist  in  per- 


no 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


NEAR  VIEW  OF  THE  "POHONO,"  OR  BRIDAL  VEIL  FALL,  940  FEET  HIGH. 
From  a  Photograph  by  0.  L.  Weed. 

petuating  the  beautiful  legend  before  given  concerning  that  Indian 
semi-deity,  we  shall  take  the  liberty  of  christening  this  point  Tu- 
toch-ah-nu-lah's  Citadel. 

Other  wild  and  weird-like  points  of  equal  interest  stand  before 
us  on  the  summit  and  among  the  niches  of  every  cliff;  so  that  it 
is  not  this  or  that  particular  rock  that  attracts,  so  much  as  the 
infinite  variety,  all  of  which  are  so  distinctly  different. 

At  the  foot  of  the  rocky  point  where  we  have  left  our  horses,  we 
may  as  well  sit  down  to  discuss  the  merits  of  an  excellent  lunch ; 


THE  YO-SEMITE  VALLEY. 


Ill 


and,  as  evening  is  slowly  lengthening  the  shadows  of  the  trees 
and  mountains,  we  cannot  do  better  than  retrace  our  way  to  the 
hotel. 

THE  "  l'l-WY-ACK,"  OR  VERNAL  FALL. 

It  is  always  well  to  start  as  early  as  we  conveniently  can,  with- 
out hurrying  ourselves  too  much,  as  by  this  course  we  obtain 
many  advantages  that  need  not  now  be  enumerated  ;  therefore,  as 


RIVER  SCENE  JUST  BELOW  THE  DRLDUE,  LOOKING  EAST. 
From  a  Pliotograph  by  C.  I..  Weed. 


112 


SCENES  IN  CALIFOKNIA. 


soon  as  the  sun  lias  begun  to  wink  at  us  from  among  the  pine- 
trees  on  the  mountain-tops,  we  may  as  well  start  on  our  visit  to 
the  Pi-wy-ack  Fall. 

At  first,  we  pass  round  the  granite  points  that  extend  into  the 
level  meadow  land,  just  above  the  hotel ;  then,  as  we  advance, 
the  valley  gradually  widens,  and,  with  the  oak  trees  growing  at 
irregular  intervals  of  distance,  reminds  us  of  the  beautiful  parks' 
of  Europe,  especially  those  of  England  and  France. 

On  our  right  is  a  high  wall  of  granite,  nearly  perpendicular, 
to  the  height  of  three  thousand  four  hundred  and  forty  feet — 
down  which  several  small,  silvery,  ribbon-like  streams  are  leaping. 
Here  and  there,  from  the  sides  of  this  vast  mountain,  a  single  tree 
or  shrub  is  standing  alone.  Surmounting  one  of  the  lower  points 
of  rock,  several  rugged  peaks  unite,  and  resemble  an  immense 
hospice,  which  has,  not  inappropriately,  been  named  Mount  St. 
Bernard.  Another  has  a  distant  kinship,  in  form  at  least,  with 
a  bear.  Another,  a  huge  head.  In  fact,  you  can  look  at  the 
various  parts  of  the  mountain,  and  trace  a  resemblance  to  a  hun- 
dred different  objects ;  and  as  the  shadows  change,  when  the  day 
advances,  to  as  many  more. 

About  two  and  a  half  miles  from  the  hotel  we  arrive  at  the 
usual  place  of  leaving  animals,  when  visitors  are  on  their  way  to 
the  Pi-wy-ack  (Vernal),  Yo-wi-ye  (Nevada),  and  other  falls  on  the 
main  branch  of  the  river  ;  the  trail,  in  its  present  condition,  being 
too  rocky  and  rough  to  admit  of  its  being  travelled  by  horses  or 
mules  above  this  point — therefore  we  have  to  proceed  on  foot,  by 
a  broken  and  rough  trail.  On  our  left,  at  intervals,  the  uneven 
pathway  lies  beside  the  river — the  thundering  boom  of  whose 
waters  rises,  at  times,  above  the  sound  of  our  voices ;  for,  as  soon 
as  we  have  fairly  left  the  level  valley,  and  commenced  our  ascent, 
that  large  stream  forms  one  magnificent  cataract  up  to  the  Very 
foot  of  the  fall. 

Soon  we  arrive  at  the  mouth  of  the  South  Fork,  which  we  cross 
on  a  rude  and  log-formed  bridge. 

Upward  and  onward  we  toil ;  and,  after  passing  a  bold  point, 
we  obtain,  suddenly,  the  first  sight  of  the  Pi-wy-ack,  or  Vernal 


THE  YO-SEMITE  VAXLEY. 


113 


IV 

I 

Fall.  While  gazing  at 
its  beauties,  let  us,  now 
and  forever,  earnestly 
protest  against  the  per- 
petuation of  any  other  no- 
menclature to  this  won- 
der, than  "Pi-wy-ack," 
the  name  which  is  given 
to  it  by  the  Indians, 
which  means  "  a  shower 
of  sparkling  crystals," 
while  "  Vernal"  could, 
with  much  more  appro- 
priateness, be  bestowed 
upon  the  name-giver,  as 
the  fall  itself  is  one  vast 
sheet  of  sparkling  brightness  and  snowy  whiteness,  in  which 
there  is  not  the  slightest  approximation,  even  in  the  tint,  to  any 
thing  "  vernal." 

Still  ascending  and  advancing,  we  are  soon  enveloped  in  a 
sheet  of  heavy  spray,  driven  down  upon  us  with  such  force  as  to 
resemble  a  heavy  storm  of  comminuted  rain.  Now,  many  might 
suppose  that  this  would  be  annoying,  but  it  is  not,  although  the 
only  really  unpleasant  part  of  the  trip  is  that  which  we  have  here 
to  take,  on  a  steep  hill-side,  and  through  a  wet,  alluvial  soil,  from 
which,  at  every  footstep,  the  water  spirts  out,  much  to  the  incon- 
venience and  discomfort  of  ladies — especially  of  those  who  wear 


THE  •'  PI-WY-ACK,"  OR  VERNAL  FALL,  THREE  HUNDRED 
FEET  HIGH. 


114 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


long  dresses.  As  the  distance  through  this  is  but  short,  it  is  soon 
accomplished,  and  in  a  few  minutes  we  stand  at  the  foot  of  "  The 

Ladders."  Beneath  a 
large,  overhanging 
rock  at  our  right,  is 
a  man  who  takes  toll 
for  ascending  the  lad- 
ders, eats,  and  "  turns 
in"  to  sleep,  upon  the 
rock.  The  charge  for 
ascending  and  descend- 
ing is  seventy -five 
cents ;  and,  as  this  in- 
cludes the  trail  as  well 
as  the  ladders,  the 
charge  is  very  reason- 
able. 

Formerly  there  were 
no  means  of  ascending 
or  descending  this  per- 
pendicular wall  of  rock, 
except  with  ropes  fas- 
tened to  an  oak-tree 
that  grows  in  one  of 
the  interstices  ;  and 
that,  too,  at  great  per- 
sonal risk  and  incon- 
tiie  LADDERs-  venience — so  that  but 

few  persons  would  make  the  dangerous  attempt. 

This  fall  we  estimated — it  has  not  been  measured,  we  believe — 
at  about  three  hundred  feet  in  height ;  others  have  placed  it  as 
high  as  four  hundred  and  fifty,  but  we  think  that  such  an  esti- 
mate is  altogether  too  high.  It  is  certainly  an  awe-inspiring  and 
wonderful  object  to  look  upon,  and  well  worthy  of  a  visit  at  ten 
times  the  present  trouble  and  inconvenience. 


THE  YO-SEMITE  VALLEY. 


115 


THE  "YO-WI-YE,"  OR  NEVADA  FALL. 

Ascending  the  ladders,  we  reach  an  elevated  plateau  of  rock,  on 
the  edge  of  which,  and  about  breast  high,  is  a  natural  wall  of 
granite,  that  seems  to  have  been  constructed  by  nature  for  the 
especial  benefit  and  convenience  of  people  with  weak  nerves,  en- 
abling them  to  lean  upon  it  and  look  down  over  the  precipice 
into  the  deep  chasm  below. 

The  waters  of  the  river,  which  rush  through  a  narrow  gorge 
above  with  great  speed  and  power,  here  spread  out  to  the  width 
of  about  sixty-five  feet,  before  shooting  over  the  edge  of  the  fall. 


RIVER  RUSHING  THROUGH  THE  GORGE  ABOVE  THE  PI-WY-ACK  FALL. 

Advancing  gently  and  pleasantly,  we  arrive  at  the  gorge,  before 
alluded  to,  and  as  several  large  pieces  of  burnt  timber  are  proba- 
bly lying  near,  if  we  roll  them  in  upon  the  angry  bosom  of  the 


116  SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 

hurrying  current,  we  shall  find  that  they  are  tossed  about,  and 
borne  along  as  though  they  were  waifs.  After  working  our  way 
over  a  low  point  of  rocks,  we  come  in  sight  of  the  Yo-wi-ye  Fall, 
the  greatest,  yet  not  the  highest,  fall  in  or  near  the  Yo-Semite 


THE  "YO-WI-YE,"  OR  NEVADA  FALL,   700  FEET  IN  HEIGHT. 
From,  a  Photograph,  ny  C.  L.  Weed. 


THE  YO-SEMITE  VALLEY. 


117 


Valley ;  and  which  is  estimated  at  between  seven  and  eight  hun- 
dred feet  in  height. 

When  the  base  of  this  fall  is  reached,  or  as  nearly  so  as  the 
eddying  clouds  of  spray  will  permit,  it  appears  to  be  different  in 
shape  to  either  of  the  others ;  for,  although  it  shoots  over  the 
precipice  in  a  curve,  and  descends  almost  perpendicularly  for 
four-fifths  of  the  distance,  it  then  strikes  the  smooth  surface  of 
the  mountain,  and  spreads,  and  forms  a  beautiful  sheet  of  silvery 
whiteness,  about  one  hundred  and  thirty  feet  in  width. 

This  point  is  about  as  far  as  visitors  generally  go,  although 
some  more  enthusiastic  spirits  work  their  way,  by  the  side  of  the 
smooth  mountain  wall — that  here  prevents  further  progress,  with- 
out considerable  toil  and  difficulty — to  the  top  of  the  fall ;  and  as 
we  expect  the  courteous  reader  is  of  the  latter  class,  we  will,  with 
his  consent,  make  one  of  the  party  to  see  what  we  can  find. 

THE  COUNTRY  ABOVE  THE  YO-WI-YE  FALL. 

On  reaching  the  top,  near  the  edge  of  the  fall,  we  find  the  rock 
very  smooth  and  bare  for  many  rods,  with  here  and  there  a 
stunted  tree,  living  on  a  short  allowance  of  soil  in  a  narrow  crev- 
ice. At  the  back  of  this  bare  rock  is  a  limited  forest  of  pines 
and  firs.  Huge  boulders  and  masses  of  granite  lie  scattered  here 
and  there.  The  river,  for  some  distance  above,  forms  a  series  of 
rapids.  As  a  tree  has  lodged  across  the  stream  about  a  quarter 
of  a  mile  from  the  fall,  and  the  smooth  rock  to  the  eastward  forms 
another  barrier  to  our  progress  in  that  direction,  let  us  cross  to 
the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  and  work  our  way  up  to  that  which 
is  now  called  the  Little  Yo-Semite  Valley. 

Our  course  now  lies  up  and  across  the  numerous  spurs  that  hem 
in,  or  rather  that  almost  monopolize  and  form  the  so-called  valley, 
with  the  exception,  perhaps,  of  from  a  third  to  a  half  mile  on  the 
sides  of  the  stream.  Numerous  clumps  of  fir  trees  and  pines 
stand  here  and  there  ;  some  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  and  some 
in  moist  places,  that,  during  a  short  season  of  the  year,  are  shal- 
low lakes.  Numerous  grouse  and  mountain  quail  whirr  past  us — 
simply,  as  we  think,  perhaps,  to  torment  us,  as  on  this  occasion 


118 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


most  likely  we  have  no  gun,  knowing  that  at  other  times  when 
we  had,  we  found  no  use  for  one.  By  the  side  of  every  little  hil- 
lock, especially  at  the  bottom  of  the  spurs,  there  are  deer  trails, 
deeply  worn,  and  full  of  recent  imprints  of  their  feet ;  also  those 
of  the  cinnamon  and  grizzly  hear.  On  the  limited  portions  of 
alluvial  soil,  a  thick  growth  of  short,  fine  grass  is  growing,  re- 
sembling the  buffalo  grass  of  the  plains.  On  the  low  ridges  or 
spnrs  in  the  valley,  there  is  also  an  abundance  of  tuft  or  bunch 
grass. 

The  mountains  on  either  side  of  this  valley  are,  if  possible,  more 
singular  than  those  of  the  great  Yo-Semite  Valley,  on  account  of 
the  formation  being  distinctly  different.  For  instance,  a  large  and 
uneven,  yet  sugar-loaf  shaped  rock,  at  its  eastern  extremity,  near 
another  waterfall,  has  a  wide  belt  of  sandstone  near  its  base,  and 
which  extends  from  the  one  side  to  the  other ;  similar  layers  of 
rock  continue,  although  of  different  kinds  and  colors,  to  the  very 
summit  of  the  rock,  while  that  in  the  valley  below  is  of  granite,  al- 
most exclusively. 

The  waterfall  at  the  head  of  this  valley,  and  two  and  a  half 
miles  from  the  Yo-wi-ye,  might  more  properly  be  denominated  a 
cascade,  as  the  main  body  of  water  forming  the  river  rushes  down 
an  inclined  plane  of  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  length, 
at  an  angle  of  about  thirty-seven  degrees.  The  mountains  on 
either  side  being  lofty,  rugged,  pine-studded,  and  precipitous,  add 
much  to  the  grandeur  as  well  as  beauty  of  the  scene. 

Still  higher  up  this  beautiful  stream  there  are  yet  two  other  water- 
falls, and  numerous  small  rock-bound  valleys,  that  at  some  future 
day  we  may  visit;  but  as  evening  has  begun  already  to  drop  her 
shadowy  curtain,  let  us  hasten  to  retrace  our  steps,  or  we  may  be 
benighted. 

THE  TOO-LTT-LU-WACH,  OR  SOUTH  BRANCH  WATERFALL. 

It  will  be  remembered  that,  in  walking  up  the  uneven  trail  to 
the  Pi-wy-ack  and  Yo-wi-ye  Falls,  a  stream  of  considerable  vol- 
ume, divided  into  numerous  branches,  is  crossed  :  this  is  the  South 
Fork.    Several  miles  above  the  crossing  alluded  to,  there  is 


TnE  TO-SEMITE  VALLEY. 


119 


another  large  fall,  which,  although  but  seldom  seen,  it  will  be 
well  for  us  to  visit. 

About  two  and  a  half  miles  above  the  Upper  Hotel,  we  arrive  at 
the  usual  place  of  leaving  animals,  at  which  point  we  leave  the 
trail  and  soon  find  that,  poor  as  it  undoubtedly  is,  we  are  prepared 
to  accord  to  it  any  amount  of  excellence  in  comparison  with  the 
steep,  boulder-filled,  and  trailless  canon  of  the  South  Fork. 

Here  we  have  to  stoop  or  creep  beneath  low  arches ;  there  we 
assist  each  other  to  climb  a  rock  ;  yonder  a  spur  shoots  out  from  the 
mountain  to  the  very  margin  of  the  stream  and  forces  us  to  cross  it. 
•At  such  places,  fortunately,  the  few  who  have  preceded  us  have 
bridged  the  river,  by  felling  trees  over  it,  thus  enabling  us  to  fol- 


THE  SOUTH  DOME  AS  SEEN  FROM  THE  CANON  OF  THE  SOUTH  FORK. 
From  a  Photograph  hy  C.  I..  Weed. 


120 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


low  in  their  footsteps  with  great  advantage  to  ourselves.  Minia- 
ture mountains  of  loose  rocks  seem  to  be  piled  on  each  other,  still 
higher  and  higher  as  we  advance. 

About  a  mile  and  a  half  above  the  confluence  of  the  South  with 
the  Middle  Fork,  we  emerge  from  a  heavy  growth  of  timber  into 
an  open  and  treeless  chasm,  the  bed  of  which  is  covered  with 
large  angular  rocks,  bounded  on  either  side  with  vertical  walls  of 
time-worn  and  rain-stained  granite.  On  the  uneven  tops  of  these, 
a  few  of  the  Douglass  spruce-trees  are  struggling  to  weather  the 
storms  and  live.  From  this  point,  we  obtain  a  fine  distant  view, 
above  the  tops  of  the  lofty  pines,  of  the  Great  Dome,  and  also  the 
Pi-wy-ack  Fall. 


THE  TOO-LU-LU-WACH,  OR  SOUTH  FORK  WATERFALL. 
From  a  Photograph  by  C.  L.  Weed. 


THE  YO-SEMITE  VALLEY. 


121 


About  two  o'clock  p.  m.  (if  we  start  early)  we  reach,  the  head 
of  the  canon  and  the  foot  of  the  Too-lu-lu-wach  Fall.  This  canon 
here  is  suddenly  terminated  by  an  irregular,  horse-shoe  shaped 
end,  the  sides  and  circle  of  which,  on  the  one  side,  are  perpendic- 
ular, and  on  the  other  so  much  so  as  to  be  inaccessible  without 
great  danger  of  slipping,  and,  consequently,  of  being  dashed  to 
pieces. 

This  waterfall  is  about  seven  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  height, 
which,  after  shooting  over  the  precipice,  meets  with  no  obstacle 
to  break  its  descent,  until  it  nearly  reaches  the  basin  into  which 
it  falls.  It  is  a  fine  sheet  of  water,  of  about  the  same  volume  as 
the  Yo-Semite  (named  by  the  Indians,  Clio-lock),  at  the  time  we 
visited  and  measured  it.  As  we  had  no  instruments  for  ascertain- 
ing the  altitude  of  the  Too-lu-lu-wach  Fall,  of  course  the  above  is 
only  given  as  its  approximate  height. 

The  engraving  given  of  this  presents  a  side  section  only,  as  the 
distance  across  the  canon,  opposite  the  fall,  not  being  over  one 
hundred  and  fifty  yards,  is  altogether  too  short  to  allow  the  instru- 
ment to  take  in  the  whole  front  view  on  one  picture. 

Our  fatiguing  ascent  having  occupied  the  greater  portion  of  the 
day,  and  the  sunshine  having  already  departed  from  the  west  side 
of  the  canon,  and  as  we  are  not  prepared  to  pass  the  night  here, 
our  work  and  return  has  to  be  conducted  with  brevity  and  des- 
patch ;  consequently,  the  moment  we  have  satisfied  our  minds  we 
had  better  commence  the  descent.  On  our  way  down,  we  secure 
another  good  view  of  Tis-sa-ack  (the  South  Dome),  from  the  south 
canon,  and  which,  from  this  point,  presents  a  singular  conical 
shape  of  that  mountain  which  is  not  to  be  seen  from  any  other 
point,  and  arrive  at  our  quarters  at  the  hotel  in  safety  just  after 
dark,  well  pleased  with  the  result  of  our  difficult  undertaking. 

While  discussing  the  viands  of  our  much-relished  evening's  re- 
past, we  venture  to  predict,  that  before  five  years  have  elapsed, 
we  shall  be  able  to  ride  to  the  very  foot  of  each  of  these  magnifi- 
cent waterfalls.  And  we  would  respectfully  suggest  to  residents 
in  the  valley,  or  others,  that  a  good  mule  trail  constructed,  not 
only  to  the  Too-lu-lu-wach,  but  to  the  foot  of  the  Yo-wi-ye  Fall, 
6 


122 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


and  up  Indian  Canon  to  the  top  of  the  great  To-Semite,  will  not 
only  prove  a  good  investment  at  a  fair  toll,  but  be  a  strong  addi- 
tional inducement  to  parties  of  pleasure  in  visiting  the  valley. 
And  we  know,  too,  that  every  visitor  will  respond  affirmatively 
to  this  sentiment. 

TO  THE  TOP  OF  THE  CIIO-LOCK  OR  YO-SEMITE  FALL. 

Those  who  walk  past  and  look  up  at  the  great  Yo-Seniite  Fall, 
feel  an  undefmable  longing  to  stand  upon  and  look  down  from  the 
top  of  the  mountain  walls  that  encompass  this  valley  ;  to  examine 


VIEW  OF  INDIAN  CANON,  FN  FRONT  OF  THE  HOTEL. 


THE  YO-SEMITE  VALLEY. 


123 


the  surrounding  country  above,  and  measure  the  width  and  depth  of 
the  Yo-Semite  Creek  below.  Accordingly,  let  us  repair  to  the  foot  of 
an  almost  inaccessible  mountain  gorge,  named  Indian  Canon,  situ- 
ated about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  to  the  east  of  the  Yo-Semite  Falls, 
and  nearly  opposite  to  the  hotel,  for  the  purpose  of  making  the 
ascent.  This,  also,  is  a  fatiguing  and  difficult  task,  that  few  have 
ever  undertaken. 

In  order  the  better  to  insure  our  success,  we  must  start  early  in 
the  morning.  The  day  may  prove  to  be  very  warm  ;  yet,  after 
fairly  entering  the  canon,  the  trees  and  shrubs  that  grow  between 
the  rocks,  afford  us  a  very  grateful  shelter,  for  a  quarter  of  the 
distance  up,  when  the  almost  vertical  mountain  side  on  our  right 
throws  its  refreshing  shadow  across  the  ascent,  for  the  greater  por- 
tion of  the  remaining  distance. 

Thus  protected,  we  climb  over,  creep  beneath,  or  walk  around, 
the  huge  boidders  that  form  the  bed  of  the  gorge ;  and  which, 
owing  to  their  immense  size,  frequently  compel  us  to  make  a  de- 
tour in  the  sun  to  avoid  them,  and  to  seek  as  easy  an  ascent  as  pos- 
sible in  the  accomplishment  of  this,  our  excessively  fatiguing  task. 

A  cascade  of  considerable  volume  is  leaping  over  this,  dashing 
past  that,  rushing  between  those,  and  gurgling  among  these  rocks, 
affording  us  gratuitous  music  and  drink  as  we  climb.  Large  pine 
trees  that  fell  across  the  canon  during  the  rapid  melting  of  the 
snow,  have  been  lifted  up  and  tossed,  like  a  skiff  by  an  angry  sea, 
to  the  top  of  some  huge  rocks,  and  there  left. 

Onward  and  upward  we  toil,  the  perspiration  rolling  from  our 
brows ;  but  we  are  cheered  and  rewarded  by  the  increasing  novelty 
and  beauty  of  the  scenes  that  are  momentarily  opening  to  our  view 
as  we  ascend. 

About  noon  we  can  reach  the  summit  of  the  mountain.  It  is 
impossible  to  describe  the  magnificent  panorama  that  is  spread 
out  before  us.  Deep,  deep  below,  in  peaceful  repose,  sleeps  the 
valley  ;  its  carpet  of  green  cut  up  by  sheets  of  standing  water,  and 
small  brooks  that  run  down  from  every  ravine  and  gorge,  while 
the  serpentine  course  of  the  river  resembles  a  huge  silver  ribbon, 
as  its  sheen  flashes  in  the  sun.    On  its  banks,  and  at  the  foot  of 


124 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


the  mountains  around,  groves  of  pine  trees,  two  hundred  feet  in 
height,  look  like  mere  weeds. 

All  the  hollows  of  the  main  chain  of  the  Sierras,  stretching  to 
the  eastward  and  southward,  apparently  but  a  few  miles  distant, 
are  filled  with  snow,  above  and  out  of  which  sharp  and  bare  saw- 
like peaks  of  rock  rise  well  defined  against  the  clear  blue  sky. 
The  south  dome  from  this  elevation,  as  from  the  valley,  is  the 
grandest  of  all  the  objects  in  sight ;  a  conical  mountain  beyond, 
and  a  little  to  the  south  of  the  south  dome,  is  apparently  as  high, 
but  few  points,  even  of  the  summits  of  the  Sierras,  seem  to  be  but 
little  higher  than  it. 

The  bare,  smooth  granite  top  of  this  mountain  upon  which  we 
stand,  and  the  stunted  and  storm-beaten  pines  that  struggle  for 
existence  and  sustenance  in  the  seams  of  the  rock,  with  other 
scenes  equally  unprepossessing,  present  a  view  of  savage  sterility 
and  dreariness  that  is  in  striking  contrast  with  the  productive  fer- 
tility of  the  lands  below,  or  the  heavily  timbered  forests  through 
which  we  pass  on  our  way  to  the  valley. 

From  this  ridge,  which  most  probably  is  not  less  than  3,500 
feet  above  the  valley,  we  descend  nearly  1,000  feet,  at  an  easy 
grade,  to  the  Yo- Semite  River.  The  current  of  this  stream  for 
half  a  mile  above  the  edge  of  the  falls  runs  at  the  rate  of  about 
eight  knots  an  hour.  Upon  careful  measurement  with  a  line,  we 
find  it  to  be  thirty-four  and  a  half  feet  in  width,  with  an  average 
depth  of  twelve  inches.  The  gray  granite  rock  over  which  it  runs 
is  very  hard,  and  as  smooth  as  a  sheet  of  ice,  to  tread  which  in 
safety  great  care  is  needed,  or  before  one  is  aware  of  it  he  will 
find  his  head  where  his  feet  should  be,  and  the  force  of  the  ciurent 
sweeping  him  over  the  falls. 

When,  on  our  return,  we  have  reached  the  top  of  the  ridge  be- 
fore mentioned,  and  again  see  the  wonders  and  glories  that  are 
beyond  us,  all  that  we  seem  to  wish  or  hope  for  is  the  possession  of 
a  single  pound  of  bread,  or  any  other  edibles,  and  after  building  us 
a  fire,  by  which  to  sleep  for  the  night  without  blankets,  that  we 
may  pursue  our  interesting  explorations  to  a  more  satisfactory 
close  on  the  morrow. 


THE  YO-SEMITE  VALLEY. 


125 


As  the  sun  will  probably  be  very  low  before  we  are  content  to 
leave  this  charming  spot,  and  our  descent  will  occupy  us  busily 
for  over  four  hours,  we  cannot  arrive  at  the  hotel  until  very  late 
at  night,  so  that  we  shall  have  to  find  our  way  over  the  jagged  rocks 
and  among  the  smooth  boulders  of  the  gorge  in  the  dark,  with  the 
risk  of  breaking  our  limbs  or  neck. 

ATTEMPTS  TO  ASCEND  THE  GREAT  SEMI-DOME,  MOUNT  TIS-SA-ACK. 

As  no  footsteps  have  ever  trod  the  hazy  summit  of  the  dome- 
crowned  mountain  of  granite,  named  Tis-sa-ack,  that  stands  at  the 
head  of  the  Yo-Semite  Valley ;  and  no  eye  has  ever  looked  into 
the  purple  depth  and  misty  distance  that  stretches  far  away, 
across  the  valley  of  the  San  Joaquin,  from  its  lofty  top ;  and,  as 
we  have  visited  the  valley  on  purpose  to  explore  some  of  its 
unknown  and  mysterious  surroundings,  it  is  very  natural  for  us 
to  feel  an  earnest  yearning  to  gaze  upon  the  wonders,  beauty,  and 
majesty,  that  may  be  visible  from  so  bold  and  so  high  a  stand-point 
as  this,  it  being  no  less  than  four  thousand  five  hundred  feet  (some 
surveyors  make  it  four  thousand  nine  hundred  and  eighty  feet) 
above  the  river  that  hurries  past  its  base,  and  the  most  elevated 
of  all  the  eminences  around  the  valley. 

If  you  feel  like  making  the  attempt  to  climb  it,  as  an  excellent 
and  companionable  friend,  Mr.  Beardslee  ("Buck"),  would  kindly 
suggest,  we  are  ready  to  accompany  you  as  guide,  and  will  take 
you  by  the  Indian  trail  up  the  mountain,  if  you  wish  it ;  but  it  is 
a  very  difficult  and  fatiguing  undertaking,  we  assure  you,  accom- 
panied with  some  danger. 

The  reader  is,  of  course,  familiar  with  the  fact,  that  human 
nature  is  made  up  of  contrarieties ;  and  that  such  is  the  desire, 
generally  felt,  to  thrust  the  head  into  places  of  peril,  instead  of 
avoiding  them  from  sheer  love  of  personal  safety,  nothing  will 
answer  but  to  rush  straight  into  danger,  instead  of  from  it,  and  to 
seek,  rather  than  to  shun  it.  As  he  no  doubt  confesses  to  a  share  in 
the  common  failing,  the  very  mention  of  such  a  word  as  "danger" 
becomes  an  additional  incentive,  and  a  conclusive  argument  to 


126 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


the  resolve  of  entering  upon  the  task,  and,  consequently,  promptly 
will  accept  the  offer — at  least  in  imagination. 

As  our  feet  fall  on  the  flower-covered  and  beautiful,  though  not 
very  fertile  bottom-lands  of  the  upper  part  of  the  valley,  and  we 
thread  our  way  through  a  labyrinth  of  oak,  pine,  maple,  cotton- 
wood,  and  other  trees,  the  mountain  walls  on  either  side  throw 
their  awe-inspiring  and  heavy  shadows  over  us,  and  make  our 
hearts  to  leap  with  wild  emotion  and  new  pleasure,  as  though  we 
stand  upon  enchanted  ground,  and  all  the  scenes  upon  which  we 
look  are  the  magical  creations  of  some  wonder-working  genii. 

On  our  left,  towers  in  majestic  grandeur  the  great  Mount 
To-coy-ac,  or  North  Dome  ;  and  before  us,  stands  the  great  object 
of  our  ambitious  endeavors. 


VIEW  OF  NORTH  AND  SOUTH  DOMES,  "  TO-COY- AE"  AND  "  TIS-SA-ACK, "  FROM  THE  VALLEY. 


"  A  thin  mist  is  lying,"  as  Mr.  Tirrel  so  beautifully  remarks, 
"  upon  the  valley,  and  stealing  up  the  mountain  sides.  The  cliffs 
upon  our  left  are  all  in  deep  shadow,  the  outline  of  their  summits 


THE  YO-SEMITE  VALLEY. 


127 


cutting  darkly  and  strongly  against  the  brilliant  light  of  the 
unclouded  sky.  Great  streams  of  sunlight  come  pouring  through 
the  openings  in  the  cliffs,  illuminating  long,  radiating  belts  of 
mist,  which  extend  clear  across  the  valley,  and  are  lost  among  the 
confusion  of  rock  and  foliage,  forming  the  debris  on  the  opposite 
side.  Directly  in  front  of  us,  and  about  three  miles  distant,  is 
Mount  Tis-sa-ack,  the  highest  mountain  in  the  valley,  as  well  as 
the  boldest  and  most  beautiful  in  outline.  Its  base  is  shrouded 
in  the  hazy  mystery  which  envelops  every  thing  in  the  valley. 
Numerous  little  white  clouds,  becoming  detached  from  this  misty 
curtain,  are  sailing  up  the  mountain  side.  Dodging  about  among 
the  projecting  spurs,  intruding  their  beautiful  forms  slowly  into 
the  dark  caverns,  puffed  out  again  in  a  hurry  by  the  eddying 
winds  which  hold  possession  of  these  gloomy  recesses,  and  then 
resume  their  upward  flight,  each  following  the  other  with  the 
precision  and  regularity  of  a  fleet  of  white-winged  yachts,  round- 
ing a  stake  boat,  and  each  eaten  up  by  the  sun  with  astonishing 
rapidity,  as  they  sail  slowly  past  the  angle  of  shadow  cast  across 
the  lower  half  of  the  mountain.  High  above  all  this,  in  the  clear, 
bright  sunshine,  towers  the  lofty  summit.  Every  projection  and 
indentation,  weather  and  water  stain,  fern,  vine,  and  lichen,  so 
clearly  defined  that  one  can  almost  seem  to  touch  its  surface  by 
merely  extending  his  arm.  This  mountain  divides  the  upper  part 
of  the  valley  into  two  parts :  the  river  coming  down  the  gorge  to 
the  southward  of  it,  while  on  its  northern  side,  close  against  its 
base,  is  a  beautiful  lake  of  the  same  name  as  the  mountain,  almost 
a  mile  in  circumference,  and  very  deep." 

On,  on  we  march,  in  Indian  file,  until  we  are  nearly  on  the 
margin  of  the  river.  When  we  reach  it,  we  find  that  a  small,  yet 
tall  tree  has  fallen  across  to  form  a  bridge,  over  which  we  walk, 
while  the  thundering  water  splashes,  and  surges,  and  eddies,  as  it 
sweeps  against  the  rocks,  much  to  the  discomposure  of  the  nervous 
system  of  some,  knowing  that  we  have  to  follow  suit,  or  stay 
behind. 

This  accomplished,  we  soon  begin  the  ascent  of  the  mountain 
over  loose  fragments  of  debris,  and  among  huge  masses  of  fallen 


128 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


rocks,  lying  at  the  side  of  the  mountain,  and  in  the  bed  of  a  small 
but  very  deep  canon  ;  but  these  are  soon  left  behind,  and  we  have 
to  commence  climbing  around  and  over  points  of  rocks,  walking 
on  narrow  edges,  or  feeling  our  way  past  some  projecting  point, 
or  tree,  or  shrub ;  steadying  ourselves  by  a  twig,  or  crevice,  or 


THE  "INDIAN  TRAIL"  UP  THE  MOUNTAIN. 


jutting  rock ;  or  holding  on  with  our  feet,  as  well  as  our  hands, 
knowing  that  a  slip  will  send  us  down  several  hundred  feet,  into 
the  deep  abyss  that  yawns  beneath. 

In  some  places,  where  the  ledges  of  rock  are  high  and  smooth, 
broken  branches  of  trees  have  been  placed,  so  as  to  enable  the 
Indians  to  climb  above  them  ;  and  then,  by  removing  the  means 
of  their  ascent,  cut  off  the  pursuit  of  any  advancing  foe.  These, 
although  risky  places  to  travel  over,  and  in  no  way  inviting  to  a 
nervous  man,  are  of  considerable  assistance  in  the  accomplishment 
of  our  task. 


THE  YO-SEMITE  VALLEY. 


129 


After  an  exciting  and  fatiguing  exercise,  of  about  three  hours, 
we  reach  a  large  projecting  rock,  that  forms  a  cave.  Here  we 
take  a  rest  of  a  few  minutes,  and  then  renew  our  efforts  to  reach 
the  top  of  the  mountain.  A  little  before  noon  this  is  accom- 
plished. 

To  our  great  comfort  and  satisfaction,  a  cool  and  refreshing 
breeze  is  blowing  upon  us  as  soon  as  we  reach  the  summit ;  and 
this  is  especially  welcome,  as  the  heat,  on  the  sheltered  side,  by 
which  we  have  ascended,  has  been  very  oppressive,  pouring  down 
upon  us  from  a  hot  sun,  without  the  slightest  breeze  to  fan,  or 
shadow  to  shelter  us,  as  we  climb. 

The  reader  must  not  anticipate  our  narrative,  by  supposing  that 
the  difficult  task  of  ascending  the  Great  Dome  is  now  accomplished, 
far  from  it;  for,  although  we  have  reached  the  top  of  the  elevated 
plateau,  or  mountain  ridge,  to  the  height  of  about  three  thousand 
seven  hundred  feet  above  the  valley,  the  great,  bahbheaded  object 
of  our  aspirations  is  still  lifting  its  proud  summit  more  than  a 
thousand  feet  above  us. 

While  advancing  toward  Tis-sa-ack,  looking  out  for  some  point 
where  the  ascent  can  be  the  most  successfully  attempted,  we 
come  upon  the  projecting  margin  of  the  immense  granite  wall  of 
rock  seen  from  below  ;  and,  as  we  stand  upon  it,  looking  down 
into  the  far  off  and  misty  depths  of  the  valley  beneath,  with  the 
river  winding  hither  and  thither,  no  language  can  describe  the  ap- 
palling grandeur  and  frightful  profoundness  of  the  scene. 

Steadying  ourselves  against  a  stunted  pine  tree,  that  has  been 
toughened  and  strengthened  by  its  perpetual  struggles  with  the 
tempests  and  storms  of  many  a  year,  and  which  is  growing  from  a 
narrow  crevice  in  the  granite  mass  on  either  side,  we  roll  several 
large,  round  rocks,  that  lie  temptingly  near  the  edge  of  the  preci- 
pice, into  the  abyss  beneath ;  when  we  are  surprised  to  find  that 
many  seconds  elapse  before  they  are  heard  to  strike  on  the  bare 
rock  below.  It  is  our  opinion  that  this  precipice  cannot  be  less 
than  two  thousand  seven  hundred  feet  in  perpendicular  altitude. 
Here  we  are  enabled  to  find  some  flowers  of  a  genus  but  recently 
known  to  botanists,  and  are  consequently  new. 
6* 


130 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


Without  lingering  too  long,  we  again  start  on  our  enterprise, 
and  find  that  on  this,  the  south  side  of  the  Dome,  it  is  utterly 
impossible  to  climb  up ;  so  we  work  our  way  through  a  dense, 
though  comparatively  dwarfish  growth  of  manzanita  bushes, 
growing  at  the  base  of  the  Dome  (which  makes  sad  havoc  in 
broadcloth  unmentionables),  and  about  two  o'clock  p.  m.  reach 
the  foot  of  a  low,  flattish,  dome-shaped  point  of  rock,  that  lies  at 
the  back  or  eastern  side  of  the  great  Tis-sa-ack,  and  which  is  not 
seen  from  the  valley. 

As  we  have  not  found  a  single  drop  of  water  to  assuage  our 
thirst,  since  we  left  the  river,  and  the  day  and  the  exercise  is  alike 
provocative  of  it,  our  gratification  is  strong  at  the  sight  of  a  snow 
bank,  snugly  ensconced  in  the  shade,  on  the  north  side  of  the 
Dome.  We  now  quicken  our  footsteps,  and  soon  find  ourselves 
sitting  comfortably  beside  it,  taking  lunch.  An  abundance  of 
good  water  being  found  issuing  from  a  crevice  in  the  rock,  a  short 
distance  down  the  mountain,  we  repair  thither  to  finish  our  repast, 
and  take  a  good,  hearty  draught,  before  attempting  the  ascent. 
Here  we  find  several  new  varieties  of  flowering  shrubs,  in  addition 
to  some  bulbous  roots,  and  very  pretty  mosses. 

The  inner  man  being  satisfied,  the  rapidly  descending  sun  ad- 
monishes us  to  make  the  best  of  daylight  to  accomplish  the  task 
we  have  set  ourselves.  Accordingly,  we  repair  to  the  Lower 
Dome,  which  is  one  immense  spur  of  granite,  belonging  to  the 
Great  Dome ;  and,  as  its  surface,  by  time  and  the  elements,  is 
made  tolerably  rough,  there  is  found  comparatively  but  little 
difficulty  in  climbing  it,  especially  with  a  little  assistance. 

In  some  of  the  fissures  or  seams  of  this  rock,  some  low,  stunted 
shrubs  are  growing.  When  we  reach  the  top  of  the  Lower  Dome, 
which  is,  perhaps,  about  four  hundred  and  fifty  feet  above  the 
average  level  of  the  main  ridge,  to  our  dismay  and  disappoint- 
ment, we  find  that  not  only  is  the  gently  rounding  surface  of 
the  Great  Dome  itself  at  an  angle  of  about  sixty-eight  or  seventy 
degrees,  but  is  overlaid  and  overlapped,  so  to  speak,  with  vast 
circular  granite  shingles — as  smooth  as  glass — about  eighteen 
inches  in  thickness,  and  extending  around  the  Dome  as  far  as  our 


THE  YO-SEMITE  VALLEY. 


131 


ASCENDING  THE  LOWER  DOME. 


eyes  can  reach.  These  put  every  hope  to  flight,  of  our  feet,  or 
those  of  any  other  visitors,  ever  treading  upon  the  lofty  crown  of 
this  dome,  without  extensive  artificial  adjuncts  to  aid  in  its  accom- 
plishment. On  the  top  of  this  immense  mountain  of  smooth  rock, 
one  solitary  pine  is  growing ;  and  although  it  is  barely  discernible 
from  the  valley  (and  not  at  all  from  the  Lower  Dome,  where  we  are 
standing),  by  the  aid  of  the  telescope,  it  is  seen  to  be  a  tree  of 
goodly  size. 

Much  disappointed  at  the  failure  of  the  principal  object  of 
the  enterprise,  we  will  place  our  national  banner  upon  the  highest 
point  attainable,  in  the  hope  that  the  day  is  not  far  distant  when 
the  number  of  visitors  who  shall  annually  come  to  worship  at  this 
sublime  temple  of  nature,  may  create  the  necessity  for  the  con- 
struction of  a  strong  iron  staircase  to  the  very  summit  of  Mount 
Tis-sa-ack ;  and,  that  from  the  topmost  crown  of  her  noble  head, 
the  stars  and  stripes  may  wave  triumphantly,  as  from  this  eleva- 
tion the  whole  surrounding  country  can  be  seen  afar  off,  and  a 
thousand  times  fully  reward  the  perseverance  and  fatigue  of  the 
ascent. 


132 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


COMPARISON  BETWEEN   THE  YO-SEMITE  VALLEY  AND   SOME   PARTS  OF 

SWITZERLAND. 

A  love  for  the  beautiful,  in  nature  or  art,  is  not  only  a  magnet 
of  attraction  to  persons  of  kindred  tastes,  but,  dispelling  all 
national  prejudices  and  social  ceremonies,  becomes  a  bond  of 
individual  friendship  between  men  of  different  countries,  habits, 
and  peculiarities.  Especially  is  this  remarkable  in  those  who 
travel  much ;  for,  without  being  offensively  obtrusive,  they  have 
learned  to  accept  and  bestow  kindnesses  promptly,  as  matters  of 
natural  courtesy ;  and  to  ask  or  answer  questions,  sometimes  in 
partial  anticipation  of  the  wishes  and  pleasures  of  a  fellow- 
traveller,  without  any  apparent  obligation  to  or  from  either,  and 
which  places  them  upon  terms  of  intimacy  and  friendliness  to 
each  other. 

Through  such  a  medium,  by  the  kindness  of  Rev.  P.  V.  Yeecler, 
of  Napa,  we  are  favored  with  the  following  notes  of  comparison 
between  the  scenery  of  the  Yo-Semite  Valley,  and  that  of  some 
parts  of  Switzerland : 

"  The  Alps  of  Switzerland  and  Savoy  may  be  compared  to  a 
vast  shield  or  buckler,  lying  on  the  bosom  of  the  earth,  and  ex- 
tending one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  from  the  borders  of  France 
to  the  Alps  of  the  Tyrol,  and  one  hundred  miles  from  the  plains  of 
Piedmont  to  the  broad  valley  between  the  Alps  and  the  Jura 
Mountains.  From  this  rough-seamed  surface,  there  rise  three  im- 
mense bosses,  or  projecting  points — three  radiating  centres,  sending 
off  lofty  chains  of  mountains  toward  each  other,  and  into  the 
plains  of  France,  Italy,  and  Switzerland,  at  their  feet.  The  loftiest 
of  these  bosses  or  centres  is  Mont  Blanc  in  Savoy,  the  height  of 
which  is  fifteen  thousand  seven  hundred  and  forty-four  feet ;  the 
next  in  height  is  Monte  Rosa,  fifteen  thousand  two  hundred  feet 
high  ;  and  the  third  is  the  Bernese  Alps,  the  culminating  point  of 
which  is  the  Finster-aarhorn,  fourteen  thousand  one  hundred  feet 
high.  These  three  grand  centres  are  about  sixty  miles  apart,  and 
each  has  a  scenery  peculiar  to  itself.  They  are  alike  vast,  rugged, 
mountain  masses,  towering  six  thousand  feet  into  the  region  of 


THE  YO-SEMITE  VALLEY. 


133 


perpetual  snow;  but  Mont  Blanc  has  its  "aiguilles"  or  needles; 
Monte  Rosa,  its  wonderful  neighbor,  Mont  Cervin ;  and  the  Ber- 
nese Alps  have  their  beautiful  valley  of  misty  waterfalls,  leaping 
over  perpendicular  cliffs.  The  traveller  who  visits  Yo-Semite 
Valley  after  seeing  the  Alps,  will  be  reminded  of  each  of  these 
three  grand  centres.  He  will  see  the  aiguilles  of  Mont  Blanc  in 
the  '  Sentinel,'  or  '  Castle  Bock,'  rising,  as  straight  as  a  needle, 
to  the  height  of  three  thousand  two  hundred  feet  above  the  valley, 
and  in  several  other  pointed  rocks  of  the  same  kind.  He  will  be 
reminded  of  the  sublimest  object  in  the  vicinity  of  Monte  Bosa, 
the  Materhorn,  or  Mont  Cervin,  the  summit  of  which  is  a  dark 
obelisk  of  porphyry,  rising,  from  a  sea  of  snow,  to  the  height  of 
four  thousand  five  hundred  feet.  The  '  South  Dome,'  at  Yo- 
Semite  Falls,  is  a  similar  obelisk,  four  thousand  five  hundred  and 
ninety-three  feet  in  height. 

"  But,  above  all,  the  general  shape,  the  size,  and  the  waterfalls 
of  Yo-Semite  Valley  give  it  the  closest  resemblence  to  the  famous 
valley  of  Lauterbrunnen,  at  the  base  of  the  Jungfrau,  in  the 
Bernese  Alps.  No  part  of  Switzerland  is  more  admired  and 
visited.  To  me,  its  chief  charm  is  not  so  much  its  sublime  preci- 
pices, and  its  lofty  waterfalls,  which  give  the  valley  its  name, 
'Lauterbrunnen,'  meaning  'sounding-brooks,'  as  the  magnificent 
mountain  summits,  towering  up  beyond  the  precipices,  and  the 
unearthly  beauty  and  purity  of  the  glistening  snows  on  the  bosom 
of  the  Jungfrau,  and  the  mountains  at  the  head  of  the  valley. 
But  these  summits  are  not  the  peculiar  characteristic  features  of 
Lauterbrunnen  Valley.  These  are  the  waterfalls,  the  perpen- 
dicular precipices,  and  the  beautiful  grassy  and  vine-clad  vale 
between.  And  these  are  the  grand  features  of  Yo-Semite  Valley. 
Here  you  stand  in  a  level  valley  of  about  the  same  dimensions  as 
the  Lauterbrunnen — from  eight  to  ten  miles  long,  and  a  little 
more  than  a  mile  wide — covered  here  with  a  magnificent  pine 
forest,  the  trees  averaging  two  hundred  feet  in  height ;  there,  with 
a  growth  of  noble  oaks  ;  and  elsewhere  opening  into  broad,  grassy 
fields.  These  natural  features  almost  equal  in  beauty  the  vine- 
yards, gardens,  and  cultivated  fields  of  Lauterbrunnen. 


134 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


"  But  look  now  at  the  waterfalls  :  only  one  of  them  in  the  Swiss 
valley  has  a  European  celebrity  —  the  Staubbach,  or  'Dust- 
Brook' — known  as  the  highest  cascade  in  Europe.  It  falls  at  one 
leap,  nine  hundred  and  twenty-five  feet.  Long  before  it  reaches 
the  ground  it  becomes  a  veil  of  vapor,  beclouding  acres  of  fertile 
soil  at  its  foot.  It  is  worthy  of  all  the  admiration  and  enthusiasm 
it  excites  in  the  beholder.  But  the  '  Bridal  Veil'  (Pohono)  Fall 
in  Yo-Semite  Valley  is  higher,  being  nine  hundred  and  forty  feet 
in  altitude;  leaps  out  of  a  smoother  channel,  in  a  clear,  symmetri- 
cal arch  of  indescribable  beauty  ;  has  a  larger  body  of  water,  and 
is  surrounded  by  far  loftier  and  grander  precipices. 

"  When  we  come  to  the  '  Yo-Semite  Falls'  proper,  we  behold 
an  object  which  has  no  parallel  anywhere  in  the  Alps.  The  upper 
part  is  the  highest  waterfall  in  the  world,  as  yet  discovered,  being 
fifteen  hundred  feet  in  height.  It  reminds  me  of  nothing  in  the 
Alps  but  the  avalanches  seen  falling  at  intervals  down  the  preci- 
pices of  the  Jungfrau.  It  is,  indeed,  a  perpetual  avalanche  of 
water  comminuted  as  finely  as  snow,  and  spreading,  as  it  descends, 
into  a  transparent  veil,  like  the  train  of  the  great  comet  of  1858. 
As  you  look  at  it  from  the  valley  beneath,  a  thousand  feet  below, 
it  is  not  unlike  a  snowy  comet,  perpetually  climbing,  not  the 
heavens,  but  the  glorious  cliffs  which  tower  up  three  thousand 
feet  into  the  zenith  above,  not  unlike  a  firmament  of  rock. 

"  The  lower  section  of  the  Yo-Semite  Falls  has  its  parallel  in 
Switzerland,  the  Handeck,  but  is  much  higher.  The  scenery 
around  the  'Vernal'  (Pi-wy-ack)  Falls — which  resemble  a  section 
of  the  American  Falls  at  Niagara — is  like  that  of  the  Devil's 
Bridge,  in  the  great  St.  Gothard  road,  which  is,  perhaps,  the 
wildest  and  most  savage  spot  in  Switzerland,  unless  we  except 
that  wonderful  gorge  of  the  Rhine — the  Videllala.  But  when  you 
climb  through  blinding  spray,  and  up  'The  Ladders,'  to  the  top 
of  the  Vernal  Falls,  and  follow  the  foaming  river  to  the  foot  of 
the  'Nevada'  (Yo-wi-ye)  Falls,  all  comparison  fails  to  convey  an 
idea  of  the  wildness  and  sublimity  of  the  scene.  The  Swiss 
traveller  must  climb  the  rugged  sides  of  Mont  Blanc,  cross  the 
Mer  de  Glace,  and,  stationing  himself  on  the  broken  rocks  of  the 


TIIK  YOSEMITE  VALLEY. 


135 


Gardin,  imagine  a  river  falling  in  a  snowy  avalanche  over  the 
shoulder  of  one  of  the  sharp  aiguilles,  or  needle-shaped  peaks 
around  him.  There  are  no  glaciers  at  the  foot  of  the  Nevada 
Falls,  but  every  other  feature  of  the  scene  has  an  unearthly  wild- 
ness,  to  be  equalled  only  near  Alpine  summits. 

"  To  return  again  to  the  comparison  of  the  sister  valleys — the 
Yo-Semite  and  the  Lauterbrunnen.  The  third  peculiar  feature  of 
the  Swiss  valley  is  the  parallel  precipices  on  each  side,  rising  per- 
pendicularly from  one  thousand  to  fifteen  hundred  feet.  They  are, 
indeed,  sublime,  and  where  the  cliff  projects,  in  a  rounded  form, 
like  the  bastions  of  some  huge  castle,  you  might  imagine  that  you 
beheld  one  of  the  strongholds  of  the  fabled  Titans  of  old.  But  what 
are  they,  compared  with  such  a  giant  as  Tu-toch-ah-nu-lah,  lifting  up 
his  square,  granite  forehead,  three  thousand  and  ninety  feet  above 
the  grassy  plain  at  his  feet,  a  rounded,  curving  cliff,  as  smooth,  as 
symmetrical  to  the  eye,  and  absolutely  as  vertical,  for  the  upper 
fifteen  hundred  feet,  as  any  Corinthian  pillar  on  earth  !  What 
shall  we  say,  when,  standing  in  the  middle  of  a  valley  more  than  a 
mile  wide,  you  know  that  if  these  granite  Avails  should  fall  toward 
each  other,  they  would  smite  their  foreheads  together  hundreds 
of  feet  above  the  valley !  What  magnificent  domes  are  those, 
scarcely  a  mile  apart — the  one  three  thousand  eight  hundred  feet, 
and  the  other  four  thousand  five  hundred  and  ninety-three  feet  in 
height !  When  you  stand  in  the  valley  of  Lauterbrunnen,  and 
look  at  the  snowy  summit  of  Jungfrau,  or  '  Virgin,'  you  behold  an 
object  eleven  thousand  feet  above  you ;  but  your  map  will  tell 
you  that  it  is  five  miles  distant,  and,  by  a  little  calculation,  you 
will  find  that  you  raise  your  eyes  at  an  angle  of  only  twenty-three 
degrees.  So  at  Chamounix,  you  look  up  at  the  snowy  dome  of 
Mont  Blanc,  rising  twelve  thousand  three  hundred  and  thirty 
feet  above  you ;  but  you  must  remember  that  it  is  six  and  one- 
half  miles  distant  from  you,  and  the  angle  at  which  you  view  it  is 
only  twenty  degrees,  while  the  very  sharpest  angle  at  which  you 
can  view  it  is  twenty-five  degrees.  But  at  Yo-Semite  you  need 
but  climb  a  feAV  rods  up  the  rocks  at  the  base  of  that  granite  wall, 
and,  leaning  up  against  it,  you  may  look  up — if  your  nerves  are 


136 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


steady  enough  to  withstand  the  impression  that  the  cliffs  are  falling 
over  upon  you — and  see  the  summits  above  you,  at  an  angle 
of  nearly  ninety  degrees ;  in  other  words,  you  will  behold  a 
mountain  top  three  thousand  feet  above  you  in  the  zenith.  I  have 
seen  the  stupendous  declivity  of  the  Italian  side  of  Monte  Rosa — 
a  steep,  continuous  precipice  of  nine  thousand  feet ;  but  it  is 
nothing  like  Tu-toch-ah-nu-lah,  being  nowhere  absolutely  per- 
pendicular." 

DEPARTURE  FROM  THE  A' ALLEY  BY  THE  MARIPOSA  TRAIL. 

It  is  much  to  be  regretted  that  the  tourist  should  allow  himself 
so  brief  a  period  in  this  wonderful  valley — generally  about  four 
days  only,  when  it  should  have  been  fourteen — for,  after  he  has  left 
its  sublime  solitudes,  its  numerous  waterfalls  and  brooklets,  its 
picturesque  river  scenes,  its  groups  of  shrubs  and  trees,  its  endless 
variety  of  wild  flowers,  its  bold,  rugged,  awe-inspiring,  pine- 
studded,  and  snow-covered  mountain  heights,  with  all  their  ever- 
changing  shadows  and  curious  shapes,  and  its  health-giving  and 
invigorating  air,  with  its  thousand  of  unmentioned  charms,  that 
would  have  given  pleasurable  occupation  and  grateful  variety  to 
every  class  and  condition,  both  of  body  and  mind,  for  months,  he 
contrasts  that  which  he  saw  with  that  he  might  have  seen,  and 
becomes  dissatisfied  with  his  course  in  spending  so  much  time,  as 
well  as  money,  in  travelling  there,  and  then  riding  off  without 
seeing  more  than  a  limited  portion  of  such  remarkable  scenes. 

ISTow,  however,  we  must  not  further  linger,  but,  with  a  reluctant 
heart  it  may  be,  shake  hands  with  the  pleasant  acquaintances  we 
leave  behind,  and  wish  them  farewell. 

In  order  to  look  upon  as  great  a  variety  of  scenes  as  possible,  it 
is  well  to  go  by  one  route  and  return  by  the  other ;  and,  as  we 
came  by  Coulterville,  let  us  take  the  Mariposa  trail  on  our  way 
back. 

After  again  passing  Sentinel  Rock,  the  Yo-Semite  Fall,  the  two 
hotels,  and  the  picturesque  group  known  as  Cathedral  Rocks, 
lifting  our  hat  in  respectful  salutation  at  Tu-toch-ah-nu-lah,  and 
taking  a  last  farewell  of  Pohono — the  most  graceful  waterfall  in 


THE  YO-SEMITE  VALLEY. 


137 


TIEVT   DOWN    THE    VALLEY,    TO    "CATHEDRAL  ROCKS." 
From  a  Photograph  l>y  C.  L.  Weed,  for  12.  II.  Vance. 

the  valley — we  commence  the  ascent  of  the  mountain,  on  our  way 
to  the  Mariposa  and  Frezno  G-roves  of  mammoth  trees. 

The  trail  from  Ilite's  and  Cunningham's  hotel  to  the  Pohono 
Fall  is  good ;  beyond  that,  as  you  ascend  the  mountain,  although 
the  trail  has  been  well  laid  out,  it  is  somewhat  rough  and  steep  ; 
yet,  as  you  climb  point  upon  point,  to  the  height  of  over  four 
thousand  feet,  while  it  is  a  heavy  tax  upon  the  animal,  is  seldom, 
or  never,  tedious  to  the  rider,  the  numerous  points  of  wonder  and 
beauty  growing  upon  him  as  he  advances. 

The  general  view  of  the  valley,  from  Inspiration  Point,  on  this 
trail,  is  the  most  beautiful  and  striking  of  the  whole ;  while,  on 
the  side  of  the  mountain  we  are  ascending,  numerous  sheets  of 
water  shoot  over  in  different  places.  Our  way  up  lies  beneath  the 
shadows  of  tall  pines,  hemlocks,  Douglass  firs,  and  oaks,  made 


THE  YO-SEMITE  VALLEY. 


139 


vocal  with  the  songs  of  birds,  with  the  valley  in  sight  for  several 
miles,  until  we  reach  the  top  and  sadly  say  Good-bye. 

From  this  point  our  course  is  around  and  over  several  low,  well- 
timbered  ridges,  and  across  numerous  small  valleys,  down  many 
of  which  run  several  small  streams  of  water,  until  we  commence 
the  gradual  descent  of  a  very  long  hill  to  Empire  Springs,  where, 
if  it  suits  us,  Ave  encamp  for  the  night,  and  cook  the  game  we  have 
killed  during  the  day.  The  picturesque  scene,  as  we  lie  down  be- 
neath the  pines,  looking  at  the  stars,  will  be  long  remembered. 
The  camping  place  is  good — grass,  wood,  and  water  plenty. 
Early  the  following  morning,  we  arrive  by  a  good  trail,  at  Clark's 
Ranche,  where  we  obtain  an  excellent  breakfast,  and  afterward 
visit  the  mammoth  trees. 


140  SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


SCENE  IN  THE  FREZNO  GROVE  OF  MAMMOTH  TREES. 

CHAPTEK  V. 

THE  MAMMOTH  TEEES  OF  MAEIPOSA  AND  FREZNO. 

"  Go  abroad 
Upon  the  paths  of  Nature,  and,  when  all 
Its  voices  whisper,  and  its  silent  things 
Are  breathing  the  deep  beauty  of  the  world, 
Kneel  at  its  simple  altar,  and  the  God 
fc       Who  hath  the  living  waters  shall  be  there." — N.  P.  "Willis. 


THE  DISCOVERERS  OF  THESE  GROVES. 

For  several  years  after  the  discovery  of  the  mammoth  trees  of 
Calaveras  county  had  astonished  the  world,  that  group  of  trees 


THE  MAMMOTH  TREES  OF  MARIPOSA  AND  FREZNO. 


141 


was  supposed  to  be  the  only  one  of  the  kind  in  existence.  But, 
during  the  latter  part  of  July  or  the  beginning  of  August,  1855,  Mr. 
Hogg,  a  hunter,  in  the  employ  of  the  South  Fork  Merced  Canal 
Company,  while  in  the  pursuit  of  his  calling,  .saw  one  or  more 
trees,  of  the  same  variety  and  genus  as  those  of  Calaveras,  grow- 
ing on  one  of  the  tributaries  of  Big  Creek,  and  related  the  fact  to 
Mr.  Galen  Clark,  and  other  acquaintances.  Late  in  September, 
or  early  in  October  ensuing,  Mr.  J.  E.  Clayton,  civil  engineer,  re- 
siding in  Mariposa,  while  running  a  line  of  survey  for  Colonel 
J.  C.  Fremont,  across  some  of  the  upper  branches  of  the  Frezno 
River,  discovered  other  trees  of  the  same  class,  but,  like  Mr.  Hogg, 
passed  on  without  further  examination  or  exploration. 

About  the  1st  of  June,  Mr.  Milton  Mann  and  Mr.  Clark  were 
conversing  together  on  the  subject,  at  Clark's  Ranche  on  the  South 
Fork  of  the  Merced,  when  they  mutually  agreed  to  go  out  on  a 
hunting  excursion  in  the  direction  indicated  by  Mr.  Hogg  and  Mr. 
Clayton,  for  the  purpose  of  ascertaining  definitely  the  locality,  size, 
and  number  of  the  trees  mentioned. 

Well  mounted,  they  left  Clark's  Ranche,  and  proceeded  up  the 
divide  between  the  South  Fork  of  the  Merced  and  Big  Creek,  in 
a  south-eastern  course,  with  the  intention  of  making  a  circuit  of 
several  miles,  if  not  at  first  successful — this  plan  being  the  most 
suggestive  of  their  rediscovery. 

When  on  the  summit  of  the  mountain,  about  four  miles  from 
Clark's,  they  saw  the  broad  and  towering  tops  of  the  mammoth 
trees — since  known  as  the  "  Mariposa  Grove" — and  shortly  after- 
ward were  walking  among  their  immense  trunks.  A  partial 
examination  revealed  the  fact,  that  a  second  grove  of  trees  had 
been  found,  that  was  far  more  extensive  than  that  of  Calaveras, 
and  many  of  the  trees  fully  as  large  as  those  belonging  to  that 
world-renowned  group. 

Early  the  following  spring,  Mr.  Clark  discovered  two  smaller 
groves  of  large  trees,  of  the  same  class  and  variety,  eacli  not  ex- 
ceeding a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  distance  from  the  other. 

About  the  end  of  July  of  the  same  year,  he  discovered  another 
large  grove  upon  the  head  waters  of  the  Frezno  ;  and  two  days 


142 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


afterward,  Mr.  L.  A.  Holmes,  of  the  Mariposa  Gazette,  and  J  udge 
Fitzfrugh,  while  on  a  hunting  excursion,  saw  the  tracks  of  Mr. 
Clark's  mule  as  they  passed  the  same  group ;  and  as  both  these 
parties  were  very  thirsty  at  the  time,  and  near  the  top  of  the  ridge 
at  sundown,  without  water  for  themselves  and  animals,  they  were 
anxious  to  find  this  luxury  and  a  good  camping-place  before  dark. 
Consequently,  they  did  not  deem  it  best  then  to  tarry  to  explore 
it,  intending  to  pay  this  grove  a  visit  at  some  early  time  of  leisure 
in  the  future.  This  interesting  task,  however,  seemed  to  be  re- 
served for  the  writer  and  Mr.  Clark,  on  the  second  and  third  days 
of  July,  1859. 

With  this  short  epitome  of  the  discovery  of  these  additional 
wonders,  we  shall  now  give  a  brief  narrative  of  a  visit  paid  them. 

THE  MARIPOSA  GROVES  OF  MAMMOTH  TREES. 

Arriving  at  Clark's  Ranche  (situated  about  half-way  between 
the  Great  Valley  and  Mariposa),  Mr.  Galen  Clark,  the  proprietor 
of  the  ranche,  very  kindly  offered  not  only  to  guide  us  through  the 
Mariposa  Grove  of  mammoth  trees,  but  also  to  conduct  us  to  the 
Frezno  Grove ;  observing  that,  although  the  latter  had  been  dis- 
covered by  himself  the  previous  year,  it  had  not  yet  been  examined 
or  explored  by  any  one.  Of  course,  as  the  reader  may  guess,  this 
offer  was  too  generous,  and  too  much  in  accordance  with  our 
wishes,  to  be  declined.  Our  preparations  completed,  and  when 
about  to  mount  into  the  saddle,  we  both  stood  waiting.  "  Are 
you  ready?"  asked  our  guide.  "Quite,"  was  the  prompt  re- 
joinder ;  "  but  haven't  you  forgotten  your  hat,  Mr.  Clark  ?"  "  Oh, 
no,"  he  replied,  "  I  never  have  been  able  to  wear  a  hat  since  I  had 
the  fever  some  years  ago,  and  I  like  to  go  without  now  better  than 
I  did  then  to  wear  one."    So  much  for  habit. 

With  our  fire-arms  across  our  shoulders,  and  our  blankets  and 
a  couple  of  days'  provisions  at  the  back  of  our  saddles,  we  pro- 
ceeded for  a  short  distance  through  the  thick,  heavy  grass  of  the 
ranche,  and  commenced  the  gradual  ascent  of  a  well-timbered  side- 
hill,  on  the  edge  of  the  valley,  and  up  and  over  numerous  low 
ridges,  all  of  which  were  more  or  less  covered  with  wild  flowers, 


THE  MAMMOTH  TEEES  OF  MARIPOSA  AND  FEEZNO. 


143 


on  our  way  to  the  Mariposa  Grove.  Although  the  trail  was  well 
worn  and  good,  yet,  on  account  of  the  long  ascent  to  the  summit 
of  the  ridge,  it  was  with  no  small  pleasure  that  we  found  ourselves 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  grove. 


THE  "TWINS,"  IN  THE  MARIPOSA  GROVE. 
Sketched  from  nature,  by  G.  Tirrel. 


Who  can  picture,  in  language,  or  on  canvas,  all  the  sublime 
depths  of  wonder  that  flow  to  the  soul  in  thrilling  and  intense 
surprise,  when  the  eye  looks  upon  these  great  marvels  ?  Long 
vistas  of  forest  shades,  formed  by  immense  trunks  of  trees,  extend- 
ing hither  and  thither :  now  arched  by  the  overhanging  branches 
of  the  lofty  taxodiums,  then  by  the  drooping  boughs  of  the  white- 
blossomed  dogwood  ;  while  the  high,  moaning  sweep  of  the  pines, 
and  the  low  whispering  swell  of  the  firs,  sung  awe-inspiring  an- 
thems to  their  great  Planter. 

The  Indians,  in  years  that  are  past,  have,  with  Vandal  hands, 
set  portions  of  this  magnificent  forest  on  fire ;  so  that  burnt  stumps 
of  trees  and  blackened  underbrush  frown  upon  you  from  several 
points.  Indeed,  many  of  the  largest  and  noblest  looking  are 
badly  deformed  from  this  cause.    Still,  beautiful  clumps  of  from 


144 


SCHNES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


three  to  ten  trees  in  each,  and  others  standing  alone,  are  numerous, 
sound,  and  well  formed. 

"  Passing  up  the  ravine,  or  basin,"  says  Mr.  J.  Lamson,  who 
kindly  sent  us  the  sketch  from  which  this  engraving  is  made, 
"  we  came  to  a  large  stem,  whose  top  had  been  stripped  of  its 
branches,  giving  it  somewhat  the  resemblance  of  an  immense 
spear,  and  forcibly  reminding  one  of  Milton's  description  of  Satan's 
weapon  of  that  name  : 

'  To  equal  which,  the  tallest  pine, 
Hewn  on  Norwegian  hills  to  be  the  mast 
Of  some  great  ammiral,  were  but  a  wand.' 

Believing  this  to  be  far  greater  than  any  tree  Milton  ever  dreamed 


satan's  spear. 


THE  MAMMOTH  TREES  OF  MARIPOSA  AND  FEEZNO. 


145 


of,  and  fully  equal  to  the  wants  of  any  reasonable  Prince  of 
Darkness,  in  compliment  to  the  poet  and  his  hero,  we  named  it 
'  Satan's  Spear.'    Its  circumference  is  seventy-eight  feet. 

"  Several  rods  to  the  left  of  this,  is  another  large  trunk,  with  a 
dilapidated  top,  presenting  the  appearance  of  a  tower,  and  is 
called  'The  Giant's  Tower ;'  seventy  feet  in  circumference.  Beyond 
this,  stand  two  double  trees,  which  have  been  named  '  The  Twin 
Sisters.'  Still  further  on,  is  a  tree  with  a  straight  and  slender 
body,  and  a  profusion  of  beautiful  foliage ;  near  which,  frowned 
a  savage-looking  monster,  with  a  scarred  and  knotted  trunk,  and 
gnarled  and  broken  branches,  bringing  to  one's  recollection  the 
story  of  '  Beauty  and  the  Beast.'  Crossing  the  ravine  near  '  Satan's 
<  Spear,'  there  are  many  fine  trees  upon  the  side  and  summit  of  the 
ridge.  One  of  the  finest,  whose  circumference  is  sixty  feet,  and 
whose  top  consists  of  a  mass  of  foliage  of  exceeding  beauty,  is 
called  '  The  Queen  of  the  Forest.'  Above  these,  stands  '  The 
Artist's  Encampment,'  seventy-seven  feet  in  circumference,  though 
so  large  a  portion  of  its  trunk  has  decayed  or  been  burned  away 
to  a  height  of  thirty  feet,  as  materially  to  lessen  its  dimensions." 

As  the  size  of  the  principal  trees  was  ascertained  by  Mr.  Clark, 
and  Colonel  Warren,  editor  of  the  California  Farmer,  in  which 
journal  it  first  appeared,  and  as  their  measurements  doubtless 
approximated  to  correctness,  we  give  them  below  : 

"  The  first  tree  was  '  The  Rambler,'  and  measuring  it  three  and 
a  half  feet  from  the  ground,  we  found  it  eighty  feet  in  circumfer- 
ence ;  close  at  the  ground,  one  hundred  and  two  feet ;  and,  care- 
fully surveyed,  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high.  Tree  No.  2, 
nearly  fifty  feet  in  circumference.  No.  3  (at  the  spring),  ninety 
feet,  three  and  a  half  feet  from  the  ground  ;  one  hundred  and  two 
at  the  ground  ;  and  three  hundred  feet  high.  Nos.  4  and  5  ('  The 
Sisters')  measured  eighty-two  and  eighty  seven  feet  in  circumfer- 
ence, and  two  hundred  and  twenty-five  feet  high.  Many  of  the 
trees  had  lost  portions  of  their  tops  by  the  storms  that  had  swept 
over  them. 

"  The  whole  number  measured  was  one  hundred  and  fifty-five, 
and  these  comprise  but  about  half  the  group,  which  we  estimate 
7 


146 


SCKNES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


cover  about  two  to  three  hundred  acres,  and  lie  in  a  triangular 
form.  Some  of  the  trees  first  meet  your  view  in  the  vale  of  the 
mountain ;  thence  rise  south-easterly  and  north-westerly,  till  you 
find  yourself  gazing  upon  the  neighboring  points,  some  ten  miles 
from  you,  whose  tops  are  still  covered  with  their  winter  snows. 
The  following  are  the  numbers  and  measurement  of  the  trees : 


102  feet  in  circumference. 

1  tree, 

40  feet  in  circumference. 

1  tree 

97  feet 

do 

I  tree, 

35  feet 

do 

1  tree, 

02  feet 

do 

2  trees, 

36  feet  each 

do 

3  trees, 

70  feet  ench 

do 

2  trees, 

32  feet  each 

do 

1  tree, 

72  feet 

do 

1  tree, 

28  feet 

do 

3  trees 

70  feet  each 

do 

2  trees,  100  feet  each 

do 

1  tree 

G8  feet 

do 

1  tree, 

82  feet 

do 

1  tree 

GG  feet 

do 

1  tree, 

80  feet 

do 

1  tree 

G3  feet 

do 

2  trees, 

77  feet  each 

do 

3  trees, 

63  feet  each 

do 

1  tree, 

76  feet 

do 

2  trees, 

GO  feet  each 

do 

3  trees, 

75  feet  each 

do 

1  tree, 

59  feet 

do 

1  tree, 

64  feet 

do 

1  tree, 

58  feet 

do 

4  trees, 

65  feet  each 

do 

3  trees, 

57  feet  each 

do 

2  trees, 

63  feet  each 

do 

1  tree, 

5G  feet 

do 

1  tree, 

CI  feet 

do 

3  trees, 

55  feet  each 

do 

1 0  trees, 

GO  feet  each 

do 

2  trees, 

54  feet  each 

do 

3  trees, 

59  feet  each 

do 

1  tree, 

53  feet 

do 

2  trees, 

51  feet  each 

do 

1  tree, 

51  feet 

do 

G  trees, 

50  feet  each 

do 

4  trees, 

50  feet  each 

do 

1  tree, 

49  feet 

do 

6  trees, 

49  feet  each 

do 

1  tree, 

47  feet 

do 

5  trees, 

48  feet  each 

do 

1  tree, 

46  feet 

do 

2  trees, 

47  feet  each 

do 

2  trees, 

45  feet  each 

do 

3  trees, 

46  feet  each 

do 

1  tree, 

43  feet 

do 

2  trees,  45  feet  each 

do 

7  trees, 

44  feet  each 

do 

1  tree, 

44  feet 

do 

4  trees, 

42  feet  each 

do 

2  trees, 

43  feet  each 

do 

3  trees, 

41  feet  each 

do 

2  trees, 

42  feet  each 

do 

8  trees, 

40  feet  each 

do 

"  Some  of  these  were  in  groups  of  three,  four,  and  even  five, 
seeming  to  spring  from  the  seeds  of  one  cone.  Several  of  these 
glorious  trees  Ave  have,  in  association  with  our  friend,  named. 
The  one  near  the  spring  we  call  the  Fountain  Tree,  as  it  is  used  as 
the  source  of  the  refreshment.  Two  trees,  measuring  ninety  and 
ninety-seven  feet  in  circumference,  were  named  the  Two  Friends. 


THE  MAMMOTH  TREES  OF  MARIPOSA  AND  FREZNO. 


147 


The  groups  of  trees  consisted  of  many  of  peculiar  beauty  and 
interest.  One  of  those,  which  measured  one  hundred  feet  in  cir- 
cumference, was  of  exceeding  gigantic  proportions,  and  towered 
up  three  hundred  feet ;  yet  a  portion  of  its  top,  where  it  apparent- 
ly was  ten  feet  in  diameter,  had  been  swept  off  by  storms.  While 
we  were  measuring  this  tree,  a  large  eagle  came  and  perched  upon 
it,  emblematical  of  the  grandeur  of  this  forest  as  well  as  that  of 
our  country. 

"  Near  by  it  stood  a  smaller  tree,  that  seemed  a  child  to  it,  yet 
it  measured  forty-seven  feet  in  circumference.  Not  far  from  it 
was  a  group  of  four  splendid  trees,  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet 
high,  which  we  named  the  Four  Pillars,  each  over  fifty  feet  in 
circumference.  Two  gigantic  trees,  seventy -five  and  seventy- 
seven  feet  in  circumference,  were  named  Washington  and  Lafay- 
ette ;  these  were  noble  trees.  Another  group  we  called  The 
Graces,  from  their  peculiar  beauty.  One  mighty  tree  that  had 
fallen  by  fire  and  burned  out,  into  which  Ave  walked  for  a  long 
distance,  we  found  to  be  the  abode  of  the  grizzly  ;  there  he  had 
made  his  nest,  and  it  excited  the  nerves  to  enter  so  dark  an  abode. 
Yet  it  was  a  fitting  place  for  a  grizzly.  Another  tree,  measuring 
eighty  feet,  and  standing  aloof,  was  called  the  Lone  Giant ;  it 
went  heavenward  some  three  hundred  feet.  One  monster  tree 
that  had  fallen  and  been  burned  hollow,  has  been  recently  tried, 
by  a  party  of  our  friends,  riding,  as  they  fashionably  do,  in  the 
6addle,  through  the  tunnel  of  the  tree.  These  friends  rode  through 
this  tree,  a  distance  of  one  hundred  and  fifty-three  feet.  The  tree 
had  been  long  fallen,  and  measured,  ere  its  bark  was  gone  and  its 
sides  charred,  over  one  hundred  feet  in  circumference,  and  prob- 
ably three  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  height. 

"  The  mightiest  tree  that  has  yet  been  found,  now  lies  upon  the 
ground,  and,  fallen  as  it  lies,  it  is  a  wonder  still ;  it  is  charred,  and 
time  has  stripped  it  of  its  heavy  bark,  and  yet  across  the  butt 
of  the  tree  as  it  lay  upturned,  it  measured  thirty-three  feet  with- 
out its  bark  ;  there  can  be  no  question  that  in  its  vigor,  with  its 
bark  on,  it  was  forty  feet  in  diameter,  or  one  hundred  and  twenty 
feet  in  circumference.    Only  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  of 


148 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


the  trunk  remains,  yet  the  cavity  where  it  fell  is  still  a  large 
hollow  beyond  the  portion  burned  off;  and,  upon  pacing  it, 
measuring  from  the  root  one  hundred  and  twenty  paces,  and  esti- 
mating the  branches,  this  tree  must  have  been  four  hundred  feet 
high.    We  believe  it  to  be  the  largest  tree  yet  discovered." 

This  grove  of  mammoth  trees  consists  of  about  six  hundred, 
more  or  less.  It  must  not  be  supposed  that  these  large  taxodiums 
monopolize  the  one  mile  by  a  quarter  of  a  mile  of  ground  over 
which  they  are  scattered  ;  as  some  of  the  tallest,  largest,  and 
most  graceful  of  sugar  pines  and  Douglass  firs  we  ever  saw,  add 
their  beauty  of  form  and  foliage  to  the  group,  and  contribute  much 
to  the  imposing  grandeur  of  the  effect. 

THE  SOUTH  GROVE. 

Crossing  a  low  ridge  to  the  south-westward  of  the  large  grove, 
is  another  small  one,  before  alluded  to,  in  which  there  are  many 
fine  trees.  We  measured  one  sturdy,  gnarled  old  fellow,  which, 
although  badly  burned,  and  the  bark  almost  gone,  so  that  a  large 
portion  of  its  original  size  was  lost,  is,  nevertheless,  still  ninety 
feet  in  circumference,  and  which  we  took  the  liberty  of  naming 
the  "  Grizzled  Giant." 

An  immense  trunk  lay  stretched  upon  the  ground,  that  meas- 
ured two  hundred  and  sixty-four  feet  in  length,  although  a  con- 
siderable portion  of  its  crown  has  been  burned  away.  This  was 
named  by  Mrs.  J.  C.  Fremont,  "  King  Arthur,  the  Prostrate 
Monarch." 

VISIT  TO  THE  FREZNO  GROVE. 

Leaving  the  "  South  Grove,"  we  struck  across  Big  Creek  and 
its  branches,  in  a  course  almost  due  south,  as  near  as  the  rugged, 
rock-bound  mountain  spurs  would  permit,  in  the  direction  of  the 
Frezno  group,  some  of  whose  majestic  and  feathery  tops  could  be 
seen  from  the  ridge  we  had  left  behind. 

Apparently,  these  trees  were  not  more  than  six  miles  distant 
from  the  Mariposa  Grove;  but  which,  owing  to  the  trailless  course 
we  had  to  take,  down  and  across  the  spurs  of  Big  Creek,  were  not 


THE  MAMMOTH  TKEES  OF  MARIPOSA  AND  FEEZNO. 


149 


THE  GRIZZLED  GIANT. 
From  Nature,  by  G.  Tirrel. 


150 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


less  than  ten  miles.  About  six  o'clock  p.  m.,  we  arrived  at  the 
foot  of  some  of  the  mammoth  trees,  that  stood  on  the  ridge,  like 
sentinel  guards  to  the  grove.  These  were  from  fifty  to  sixty  feet, 
only,  in  circumference. 

As  the  sun  was  fast  sinking,  we  deemed  it  the  most  prudent 
course  to  look  out  for  a  good  camping-ground.  Fortunately,  we 
discovered  at  first  the  only  patch  of  grass  to  he  found  for  several 
miles ;  and,  as  we  were  making  our  way  through  the  forest,  feel- 
ing that  most  probably  Ave  were  the  first  whites  Avho  had  ever 
broken  its  profound  solitudes,  we  heard  a  splashing  sound  proceed- 
ing from  the  direction  of  the  bright  green  we  had  seen.  This, 
with  the  rustling  of  bushes,  reminded  us  that  Ave  Averc  invading 
the  secluded  home  of  the  grizzly  bear,  and  that  good  sport  or  danger 
would  soon  give  Arariety  to  our  employments. 

Hastily  dismounting,  and  unsaddling  our  animals,  we  picketed 
them  in  the  SAvampy  grass-plat,  still  Avet  with  the  recent  spirtings 
of  seATeral  bears'  feet  that  had  hurriedly  left  it ;  then  kindling  a 
fire,  to  indicate  by  its  smoke  the  direction  of  our  camp,  Ave  started 
quietly  out  on  a  bear  hunt. 

Cautiously  peering  over  a  low  ridge  but  a  few  yards  from  camp, 
Ave  saw  two  large  bears  slowly  moving  away,  when  a  slight  sound 
from  us  arrested  their  attention  and  progress.  Mr.  Clark  Avas 
about  raising  his  rifle  to  fire,  Avhen  we  Avhispered — "Hold,  Mr.  C, 
if  you  please — let  us  have  the  first  shot  at  that  immense  fclloAV 
there."  "With  pleasure,"  Avas  the  prompt  response,  and,  at  a 
distance  of  twenty -five  yards,  a  heavy  charge  of  pistol  balls  from 
an  excellent  shot-gun  Avas  poured  into  his  body  just  behind  the 
shoulder,  Avhen  he  made  a  plunge  of  a  feAV  feet,  and,  Avheeling 
round,  stood  for  a  feAV  moments  as  though  debating  in  his  OAvn 
mind  whether  he  should  return  the  attack  or  retreat ;  but  a  ball 
from  the  unerring  rifle  of  our  obliging  guide  determined  him  upon 
the  latter  course.    The  other  had  preceded  him. 

We  immediately  started  in  pursuit;  and  although  their  course 
could  readily  be  folloAved  by  blood  dropping  from  the  Avounds,  a 
dense  mass  of  chaparal  prevented  us  from  getting  sight  of  either 
again,  although  Ave  Avalked  around  upon  the  look-out  until  the 


THE  MAMMOTH  TRICES  OF  MARIPOSA  AND  FREZNO. 


151 


darkness  compelled  us  to  return  to  camp,  where,  after  supper, 
we  were  soon  soundly  sleeping.  Early  the  next  morning  we  fol- 
lowed up  the  'divertissement  for  a  few  hours ;  but  meeting  with 
no  game  larger  than  grouse,  we  commenced  the  exploration  of 
the  grove. 

This  consists  of  about  five  hundred  trees  of  the  taxodium  family, 
on  about  as  many  acres  of  dense  forest  land,  gently  undulating. 
The  two  largest  we  could  find  measured  eighty-one  feet  each  in 
circumference,  well  formed,  and  straight  from  the  ground  to  the 
top.  The  others,  equally  sound  and  straight,  were  from  fifty-one 
feet  to  seventy-five  feet  in  circumference.  The  sugar  pines  {1'inus 
Lambertiana)  were  remarkably  large  ;  one  that  was  prostrate 
near  our  camp  measured  twenty-nine  feet  and  six  inches  in  cir- 
cumference, and  two  hundred  and  thirty-seven  feet  in  length. 
Fire  has  not  desolated  and  deformed  this,  like  the  groves  of  Calav- 
eras and  Mariposa. 

It  ought  here  to  be  remarked,  that  Mr.  L.  A.  Holmes  and 
Judge  Fitzhugh  saw  an  extensive  grove  of  much  larger  trees  than 
these  on  the  head  waters  of  the  San  Joaquin  River,  about  twelve 
miles  east  of  those  on  the  Frezno  ;  but  it  has  never  been  ex- 
plored. 

All  of  these  trees  are  precisely  of  the  same  genus  and  variety 
as  those  of  Calaveras,  and  will  abundantly  reward  visiters  who 
spend  a  day  or  two  here,  on  their  way  to  the  Yo-Semite  Valley. 

The  Mail,  from  the  South  Fork  of  the  Merced  River  to  Mari- 
posa, is  of  an  easy  grade,  upon  which  a  good  stage-road  could  be 
constructed  without  much  difficulty,  and  which  would  materially 
increase  the  comfort  of  a  majority  of  tourists,  and  shorten  the  time 
of  reaching  the  Mammoth-Tree  Grove,  or  Yo-Semite  Valley.  The 
heavily  timbered  ridges,  covered  with  pines ;  the  gently  undulat- 
ing hills  dotted  with  oaks  ;  and  the  flower-margined  ravines  that 
are  crossed,  are  beautifully  picturesque  and  gratefully  inviting  to 
the  eye ;  until  the  busy  hum  of  mining  life  tells  that  the  town  of 
Mariposa  is  near. 

For  the  convenience  of  those  travellers  who  would  like  to  visit 
the  Yo-Semite  Valley,  by  way  of  Mariposa — which  is  quite  as  good 


152 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


as  either  of  the  other  routes — we  append  the  following  table  of 


distances,  furnished  us  by  Mr.  Clark : 

Miles. 

From  Mariposa  to  the  spring  and  camping  ground  at  the  head  of  dug  road   3i 

From  Mariposa  to  Forbes'  (known  as  the  Hog  Ranche)   5} 

From  Mariposa  to  Magoon's  Ranche   11 

From  Mariposa  to  Branch  of  Chowchilla   17 

From  Mariposa  to  Clark's  Ranche  (South  Fork  Merced)   25 

Although  there  are  several  camping  places  beyond  this,  the  first 
good  one  is  Empire  Camp. 

Miles. 

From  Mariposa  to  Kmpire  Camp   34 

From  Mariposa  to  Owl  Camp   35 

From  Mariposa  to  Mountain  Meadows   37 

Branches  of  these  meadows  are  found  about  every  half  mile  for 
five  miles  ;  water  plenty. 

Mill's. 

To  the  Valley,  from  lower  end  of  these  Meadows   8 

Making  the  distance 

Miles. 

From  Mariposa  to  the  Valley   50 

From  the  Valley  to  Cunningham's  Hotel   4| 

From  the  Valley  to  Hite's  Hotel   5 J 

Total..   55fr 


THE  TOWN  OF  MAEIPOSA. 

Mariposa  is  the  most  southerly  of  all  the  mining  towns  of  im- 
portance in  the  State.  Although  it  has  suffered  more,  perhaps, 
than  almost  any  other  mining  district  for  the  want  of  water  for 
mining  purposes,  owing  to  its  quartz  leads,  and  rich  flat,  gulch, 
and  hill  diggings,  it  has  generally  been  prosperous;  and,  being  the 
county  seat,  as  well  as  the  trading  centre  of  numerous  small 
camps  around,  its  streets  at  certain  seasons  of  the  year  present  a 
very  lively  appearance.  Two  ably  edited  and  spirited  papers  are 
issued  weekly ;  one,  the  Mariposa  Gazette,  and  the  other,  the 
Mariposa  Star. 

The  population  is  about  thirteen  hundred,  or  about  one-seventh 
of  the  entire  county. 


THE  MAMMOTH  TREES  OF  MARIPOSA  AND  FEEZNO.  153 


VIEW  OP  MARIPOSA. 


It  is  here  that  the  celebrated  Fremont  Grant  is  located.  Being 
an  excellent  starting  point  to  the  Yo-Semite  Valley  and  the  Mari- 
posa Grove  of  mammoth  trees,  it  is  likely  to  become  a  place 
famous  to  history  and  the  note-books  of  travellers.  The  neat  and 
tastefully  cultivated  gardens  in  the  vicinity,  give  an  air  of  fresh- 
ness and  home-like  brightness  that  some  other  places  we  might 
mention  would  do  well  to  imitate.  The  distance  from  Stockton 
to  Mariposa  is  ninety-one  miles,  and  the  road  good,  upon  which 
a  line  of  stages  is  running  on  alternate  days. 
7* 


154 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


METAL  YAUD  AND  ENTEANCK  TO  TUE  ALMADEN  MINE. 

CHAP  TEE  VI. 

THE  QUICKSILVER  MINES  OF  NEW  ALMADEN  AND 
HENRIQUITA. 

THE  KOUTE  TO  NEW  ALMADEN. 

Sixty-five  miles  south  of  San  Francisco,  near  the  head  of  the 
beautiful  and  fertile  valley  of  San  Jose,  and  in  an  eastern  spur  of 
the  Coast  Range  of  mountains,  is  the  quicksilver  mine  of  New 
Almaden. 

With  your  permission,  kind  reader,  we  will  enter  the  stage  as  it 


QUICKSILVER  MINES. 


155 


waits  on  the  Plaza,  San  Francisco,  and,  as  the  clock  strikes  eight, 
start  at  once  on  our  journey.  Lucky  for  us,  it  is  a  fine  bright 
morning,  as  the  fog  has  cleared  off,  and  left  us  (on  a  dew-making 
excursion,  no  doubt,  up  the  country),  and  as  we  are  to  be  fellow- 
travellers,  at  least  in  imagination,  ami  wish  to  enjoy  ourselves ; 
while  the  stage  rattles  over  the  pavement,  and  rumbles  on  the 
wood  planking  of  the  streets,  let  us  say  "Good-bye"  to  our 
cares,  as  we  did  to  our  friends,  and  leave  them,  with  the  city,  be- 
hind us. 

How  refreshing  to  the  brow  is  the  breeze,  and  grateful  to  the 
eye  is  the  beautiful  green  of  the  gardens,  as  we  pass  them,  in  the 
suburbs  of  the  city,  on  our  way.  Even  the  hills  in  the  distance 
are  dotted  with  the  dark  green  of  the  live  oaks,  and  are  beautiful 
by  contrast. 

On,  on,  we  go,  rolling  over  hills,  travelling  in  the  valley,  passing 
farms  and  wayside  houses ;  now  watering  horses  here,  then  chang- 
ing liorses  there,  and  dropping  mail  bags  yonder,  until  we  reach 
the  flourishing  old  Mission  of  Santa  Clara.  Here  Ave  long  to 
linger,  and  as  we  look  upon  the  orchards  laden  with  fruit,  we 
almost  wish  to  bribe  the  coachman  to  wait  while  we  buy,  beg,  or 
steal,  those  cherry-cheeked  and  luscious-looking  pears  ;  or  take  a 
walk  amid  the  shadows  of  the  Old  Mission  Church.  But  the  signal 
"  all  aboard,"  hurries  us  to  our  seats,  and  we  soon  enter  an  avenue 
of  old  willow  and  poplar  trees,  that  extends  from  Santa  Clara  to 
San  Jose,  a  distance  of  three  miles,  and  which  was  planted  by  and 
for  the  convenience  of  the  two  Missions.  On  either  side  of  this 
avenue,  at  intervals,  there  are  tasteful  cottages,  flourishing  farms, 
nurseries,  and  gardens,  which  are  well  supplied  with  water  from 
artesian  wells. 

Arriving  in  San  Jose  we  find  a  neat  and  pleasant  agricultural 
city,  with  all  the  temptations  of  fruit  and  flowers  in  great  variety, 
and  a  brisk  business  activity  observable  in  each  department  of 
business  in  the  streets.  One  thing  may  impress  us  unfavorably 
here,  viz. :  the  large  number  of  members  of  the  legal  profession 
(thirty-seven,  we  believe)  in  so  small  a  city. 

This  fact  brought  to  mind — ■  i 


156 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


AN  OLD  SAW. 

"  An  upper  mill,  and  lower  mill, 

Fell  out  about  the  water ; 
To  war  they  went,  that  is  to  law, 

Resolved  to  give  no  quarter. 

"  A  lawyer  was  by  each  engaged, 

And  hotly  they  contended  ; 
"When  fees  grew  scant,  the  war  they  waged, 

They  judged,  'twere  better  ended. 

"The  heavy  costs  remaining  still, 

Were  settled  without  pother — 
One  lawyer  took  the  upper  mill, 

The  lower  mill  the  other." 

and  it  set  us  to  ruminating.  But  let  us  jump  into  the  easy  coach 
in  waiting,  and  we  shall  forget  all  that,  and  have  a  very  pleas- 
ant ride  of  fourteen  miles  upon  a  good  road,  through  an  ever 
green  grove  of  live  oaks,  and  past  the  broad  shading  branches  of 
the  sycamore  trees,  and  in  a  couple  of  hours  find  ourselves  drink- 
ing heartily  of  the  delicious  waters  of  the  fine  cool  soda  spring,  at 
the  romantic  village  of  New  Almaden.  As  we  have  passed 
through  enough  for  one  day,  let  us  wait  until  morning  before 
climbing  the  hill  to  examine  the  mines. 

THE  DISCOVERY  AND  OWNERSHIP  OF  THE  NEW  ALMADEN  MINE. 

This  mine  has  been  known  for  ages  by  the  Indians,  who  worked 
it  for  the  vermilion  paint  that  it  contained,  with  which  they 
ornamented  their  persons,  and  on  that  account  had  become  a 
valuable  article  of  exchange  with  other  Indians  from  the  Gulf  of 
California  to  the  Columbia  River.  Its  existence  was  also  known 
among  the  early  settlers  of  California,  although  none  could  esti- 
mate the  character  or  value  of  the  metal. 

In  1845  a  captain  of  cavalry  in  the  Mexican  service,  named 
Castillero,  having  met  a  tribe  of  Indians  near  Bodega,  and  seeing 
their  faces  painted  with  vermilion,  obtained  from  them,  for  a 
reward,  the  necessary  information  of  its  locality,  when  he  visited 
it,  and  having  made  many  very  interesting  experiments,  and  deter- 


158 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


mined  the  character  of  the  metal,  he  registered  it  in  accordance 
with  the  Mexican  custom,  about  the  close  of  that  year. 

A  company  was  immediately  formed,  and  the  mine  divided  into 
twenty-four  shares,  when  the  company  immediately  commenced 
working  it  on  a  small  scale ;  but,  being  unable  to  carry  it  on  for 
want  of  capital,  in  1846  it  was  leased  out  to  an  English  and  Mexi- 
can company  for  the  term  of  sixteen  years ;  the  original  company 
to  receive  one-quarter  of  the  gross  products  for  that  time.  In 
March,  1847,  the  new  company  commenced  operations  on  a  large 
scale,  but  finding  that  to  pay  one-fourth  of  the  proceeds,  and  yet 
to  bear  all  the  expenses  of  working  the  mine,  would  incur  a  con- 
siderable loss,  they  eventually  purchased  out  most  of  the  original 
shareholders. 

In  June,  1850,  this  company  had  expended  three  hundred  and 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  THE  QUICKSILVER  WORKS  AT  NEW  ALMADEN. 


QUICKSILVER  MINES. 


159 


eighty-seven  thousand  eight  hundred  dollars  over  and  above  all 
their  receipts.  During  that  year,  a  new  process  of  smelting  the 
ore  was  introduced  by  a  blacksmith  named  Baker,  which  suc- 
ceeded so  well,  that  fourteen  smelting  furnaces  have  been  erected 
by  the  company  upon  the  same  principle. 


PROCESS  OF  EXTRACTING  THE  QUICKSILVER  FROM  CINNABAR. 

The  process  of  extracting  the  quicksilver  from  the  cinnabar  is 
very  simple.    The  ore  chamber  B  is  filled  with  cinna-  ^ 
bar,  and  covered  securely  up;  a  fire  is  then  kindled         \  ,) 
in  the  furnace  at  A,  from  which,  through  a  perforated 
wall  of  brick,  the  heat  enters  the  ore  chamber  and 
permeates  the  mass  of  ore,  from  which  arises  the 
quicksilver,  in  the  shape  of  vapor,  and,  passing  through 
the  perforated  wall  on  the  opposite  side,  enters  the 
condensing  chambers  at  C,  rising  to  the  top  of  one, 
and  falling  to  the  bottom  of  the  other,  as  indicated  by 
the  arrows,  and  as  it  passes  through  the  condensing 
chambers  (thirteen  in  number),  it  cools  and  becomes 
quicksilver.    Should  any  vapor  escape  the  last  con- 
densing chamber,  it  passes  over  a  cistern  of  cold  water  ^ 
at  D,  where,  from  an  enclosed  pipe,  water  is  scattered 


SECTION  OP  THE  SMELTING  FURNACE. 


over  a  sieve,  and  falls  upon  and  cools  the  vapor  as  it  passes  into 
the  chimney  or  funnel  chamber  at  E. 

The  quicksilver  then  runs  to  the  lower  end  of  each  condensing 
chamber,  thence  through  a  small  pipe  into  a  trough  that  extends 
from  one  end  of  the  building  to  the  other,  where  it  enters  a  large 
circular  caldron,  from  which  it  is  weighed  into  flasks,  in  quantities 


160 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


MEXICANS  WEIGHING  QUICKSILVER. 


of  seventy-five  pounds.  To  save  time,  one  set  of  furnaces  is  gener- 
ally cooling  and  being  filled,  while  the  other  is  burning. 

Now,  let  us  gradually  ascend  to  the  -patio  or  yard  in  front  of 
the  mine,  a  visit  to  which  has  been  so  truthfully  and  beautifully 
described  by  Mrs.  S.  A.  Downer,  that  we  are  tempted  to  introduce 
the  reader  to  such  good  company. 

THE  ROAD  TO  THE  MINE. 

"  At  the  right,  was  a  deep  ravine,  through  which  flowed  a 
brook,  supplied  by  springs  in  the  mountains,  and  which,  in  places, 
was  completely  hid  by  tangled  masses  of  wild-wood,  among  which 
we  discerned  willows  along  its  edge,  with  oak,  sycamore,  and 
buckeye.  Although  late  in  the  summer,  roses  and  convolvuli, 
with  several  varieties  of  floss,  were  in  blossom ;  with  sweet-brier, 
honeysuckle,  and  various  plants,  many  of  which  were  unknown 
to  us,  not  then  in  bloom,  and  which  Nature,  with  prodigal  hand, 
has  strewn  in  bounteous  profusion  over  every  acre  of  the  land. 
To  the  left  of  the  mountain  side,  the  wild  gooseberry  grows  in 
abundance.  The  fruit  is  large  and  of  good  flavor,  though  of  rough 
exterior.    Wild  oats,  diversified  with  shrubs  and  live-oak,  spread 


QUICKSILVER  MINES. 


161 


around  us,  till  we  reach  the  patio,  nine  hundred  and  forty  feet 
above  the  base  of  the  mountain.  The  road  is  something  over  a 
mile,  although  there  are  few  persons  who  have  travelled  it  on  foot, 
under  a  burning  sun,  but  would  be  willing  to  make  their  affidavits 
it  was  near  five. 

"  Let  us  pause  and  look  around  us.  For  a  distance  of  many 
miles,  nothing  is  seen  but  the  tops  of  successive  mountains  ;  then 
appears  the  beautiful  valley  of  San  Juan,  while  the  Coast  Ilange 
is  lost  in  distance.  The  patio  is  an  area  of  more  than  an  acre  in 
extent  ;  and  still  above  us,  but  not  directly  in  view,  is  a  Mexican 
settlement,  composed  of  the  families  and  lodging-cabins  of  the 
miners.  There  is  a  store,  and  provisions  are  carried  up  on  pack- 
mules,  for  retail  among  the  miners,  who  may  truly  be  said  to  live 
from  hand  to  mouth.  This  point  had  been  the  resort  of  the 
aborigines,  not  only  of  this  State,  but  from  as  far  as  the  Columbia 
River,  to  obtain  the  paint  (vermilion)  found  in  the  cinnabar,  and 
which  they  used  in  the  decoration  of  their  persons.  How  long 
this  had  been  known  to  them,  cannot  be  ascertained  ;  probably  a 
long  time,  for  they  had  worked  into  the  mountain  some  fifty  or 
sixty  feet,  with  what  implements  can  only  be  conjectured.  [Stones 
and  pointed  sticks. — En.]  A  quantity  of  round  stones,  evidently 
from  the  brook,  were  found  in  a  passage,  with  a  number  of  skele- 
tons ;  the  destruction  of  life  having  been  caused,  undoubtedly,  by 
a  sudden  caving  in  of  the  earth,  burying  the  unskilled  savages  in 
the  midst  of  their  labors.  It  had  been  supposed  for  some  time 
that  the  ore  possibly  contained  the  precious  metals,  but  no  regular 
assay  was  made  till  1845 ;  a  gentleman  now  largely  interested, 
procured  a  retort,  not  doubting  that  gold,  or  at  least  silver,  would 
crown  his  efforts.  Its  real  character  was  made  known  by  its 
pernicious  effects  upon  the  system  of  the  experimenter.  The 
discovery  was  instantly  communicated  to  a  brother,  a  member  of 
a  wealthy  firm  in  Mexico,  who,  with  others,  purchased  the  property, 
consisting  of  two  leagues,  held  under  a  Spanish  title,  of  the 
original  owner.  For  some  years  but  little  was  done.  The  ore 
proved  both  abundant  and  rich,  but  required  the  outlay  of  a  vast 
amount  of  capital  to  be  worked  to  advantage ;  and  while  Nature, 


162 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


with  more  than  her  usual  liberality,  had  furnished  in  the  mountain 
itself  all  the  accessories  for  the  successful  prosecution  of  her  favors, 
man  was  too  timid  to  avail  himself  of  her  gifts. 

PROCESS  OF  WORKING  THE  MINE. 

"  In  1850,  a  tunnel  was  commenced  in  the  side  of  the  moun- 
tain, in  a  line  with  the  patio,  and  which  has  already  been  carried 
to  the  distance  of  one  thousand  one  hundred  feet  by  ten  feet  wide, 
and  ten  feet  high  to  the  crown  of  the  arch,  which  is  strongly 
rooted  with  heavy  timber  throughout  its  whole  length.  Through 
this  the  rail-track  passes ;  the  car  receiving  the  ore  as  it  is  brought 
'  ii  the  backs  of  the  carriers  (tenateros)  from  the  depths  below  or 


from  the  heights  above. 


The  track  being  free,  we  will  now  take 


and  sunshine.    This  sensation 


a  seat  on  the  car  and  enter  the  dark  space.  Not  an  object  is 
visible  save  the  faint  torch-light  at  the  extreme  end ;  and  a  chill- 
ing dampness  seizes  on  the  frame,  so  suddenly  bereft  of  warmth 

does  not  continue  as  we  descend 
into  the  subterranean  caverns 
below ;  and  now  commence  the 
wonders  as  well  as  the  dangers 
of  the  undertaking.  By  the  light 
of  a  torch  we  pass  through  a  damp 
passage  of  some  length,  a  sud- 
den turn  bringing  us  into  a  sort  of 
vestibule,  where,  in  a  niche  at 
one  side,  is  placed  a  rude  shrine 
of  the  tutelary  saint,  or  protectress 
of  the  mine — Nucstra  Senora  de 
Guadalupe,  before  which  lighted 
candles  are  kept  constantly  burn- 
ing, and  before  entering  upon  the 
labors  of  the  day  or  night,  each 
man  visits  this  shrine  in  devotion. 
You  descend  a  perpendicular  lad- 
der formed  by  notches  cut  into 
a  solid  log,  perhaps  twelve  feet ; 


SHRINE  OP  SEN;)liA  DE  GUADALUPE. 


QUICKSILVER  MINES. 


163 


then  turn  and  pass  a  narrow  corner,  where  a  frightful  gulf  seems 
yawning  to  receive  you.  Carefully  threading  your  way  over  the 
very  narrowest  of  footholds,  you  turn  into  another  passage  black 
as  night,  to  descend  into  a  flight  of  steps  formed  in  the  side  of  the 
cave,  tread  over  some  loose  stones,  turn  around,  step  over  arches, 
down  into  another  passage  that  leads  into  many  dark  and  intricate 
windings  and  descendings,  or  chambers  supported  by  but  a  column 
of  earth  ;  now  stepping  this  way,  then  that,  twisting  and  turning, 
all  tending  down,  down  to  where,  through  the  darkness  of  mid- 
night, one  can  discern  the  faint  glimmer,  which  shines  like  Shak- 
speare's  '  good  deed  in  a  naughty  world,'  and  which  it  seems 
impossible  one  can  ever  reach.  We  were  shown  a  map  giving 
the  subterranean  topography  of  this  mine ;  and  truly,  the  crossings 
and  recrossings,  the  windings  and  intricacies  of  the  labyrinthine 
passages,  could  only  be  compared  to  the  streets  of  a  dense  city, 
while  nothing  short  of  the  clue  furnished  Theseus  by  Ariadne, 
would  insure  the  safe  return  into  day  of  the  unfortunate  pilgrim 
who  should  enter  without  a  guide. 

"  The  miners  have  named  the  different  passages  after  their  saints, 
and  run  them  off  as  readily  as  we  do  the  streets  of  a  city ;  and 
after  exhausting  the  names  of  all  the  saints  in  the  calendar,  have 
commenced  on  different  animals,  one  of  which  is  not  inaptly  called 
El  Eh f ante.  Some  idea  of  the  extent  and  number  of  these  pass- 
ages may  be  formed,  when  we  state,  that  sixty  pounds  of  candles 
are  used  by  the  workmen  in  the  twenty-four  hours.  Another  turn 
brings  us  upon  some  men  at  work.  One  stands  upon  a  single 
plank  placed  high  above  us  in  an  arch,  and  he  is  drilling  into  the 
rock  above  him  for  the  purpose  of  placing  a  charge  of  powder.  It 
appears  very  dangerous,  yet  we  are  told  that  no  lives  have  ever 
been  lost,  and  no  more  serious  accidents  have  occurred  than  the 
bruising  of  a  hand  or  limb,  from  carelessness  in  blasting.  How 
he  can  maintain  his  equilibrium  is  a  mystery  to  us,  while  with 
every  thrust  of  the  drill  his  strong  chest  heaves,  and  he  gives 
utterance  to  a  sound  something  between  a  grunt  and  a  groan, 
which  is  supposed  by  them  to  facilitate  their  labor.  Some  six  or 
eight  men  working  in  one  spot,  each  keeping  up  his  agonizing 


164 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


sound,  awaken  a  keen  sympathy.  Were  it  only  a  cheerful  sing- 
song, one  could  stand  it ;  but  in  that  dismal  place,  their  wizard- 
like forms  and  appearance,  relieved  but  by  the  light  of  a  single 
tallow  candle  stuck  in  the  side  of  the  rock,  just  sufficient  to  make 
'darkness  visible,'  is  like  opening  to  us  the  shades  of  Tartarus; 
and  the  throes  elicited  from  over-wrought  human  bone  and  muscle, 
sound  like  the  anguish  wrung  from  infernal  spirits,  who  hope  for 
no  escape. 


M1XEK0S  AT  WORK  IN  THE  MINE. 


"These  men  work  in  companies,  one  set  by  night,  another  by 
day,  alternating  week  about.  We  inquired  the  average  duration 
of  life  of  the  men  who  work  under  ground,  and  found  that  it  did 
not  exceed  that  of  forty-five  years,  and  the  diseases  to  which  they 
are  mostly  subject  are  those  of  the  chest ;  showing  conclusively 
how  essential  light  and  air  are  to  animal,  as  well  as  vegetable  life. 
With  a  sigh  and  a  shudder  we  step  aside  to  allow  another  set  of 
laborers  to  pass.  There  they  come  ;  up  and  up,  from  almost  in- 
terminable depths,  each  one  as  he  passes  panting,  puffing,  and 
wheezing,  like  a  high  pressure  steamboat,  as  with  straining  nerve 


QUICKSILVER  MINES . 


165 


TENATEKOS  CAURVING  THE  ORE  EROM  THE  MINE. 


and  quivering  muscle  he  staggers  under  the  load,  which  nearly 
bends  him  douhle.  These  arc  the  tenateros,  carrying  the  ore  from 
the  mine  to  deposit  it  in  the  cars ;  and,  like  the  miners,  they  are  bur- 
dened with  no  superfluous  clothing.  A  shirt  and  trowsers,  or  the 
trowsers  without  a  shirt,  a  pair  of  leathern  sandals  fastened  at  the 
ankle,  with  a  felt  cap,  or  the  crown  of  an  old  hat,  completes  their 
costume. 

"The  ore  is  placed  in  a  flat  leather  h&g(talego)  with  a  band  two 
inches  wide  that  passes  around  the  forehead,  the  weight  resting 
along  the  shoulders  and  spine.  Two  hundred  pounds  of  rough 
ore  are  thus  borne  up,  flight  after  flight,  of  perpendicular  steps ; 


166 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


now  winding  through  deep  caverns,  or  threading  the  most  tortu- 
ous passages ;  again  ascending  over  earth  and  loose  stones,  and 
up  places  that  have  not  even  an  apology  for  steps,  all  the  while 
lost  in  Cimmerian  darkness,  hut  for  a  torch  borne  aloft,  which 
flings  its  sickly  rays  over  the  dismal  abysm,  showing  that  one  un- 
wary step  would  plunge  him  beyond  any  possibility  of  human  aid 
or  succor.  Not  always,  however,  do  they  ascend ;  they  some- 
times come  from  above ;  yet  we  should  judge  the  toil  and  danger 
to  be  nearly  as  great  in  one  case  as  in  the  other.  Thirty  trips  will 
these  men  make  in  one  day,  from  the  lowest  depths. 

"  For  once  we  were  disposed  to  quarrel  with  the  long,  loose  skirts, 
that  not  only  impeded  our  progress,  but  prevented  our  attempt  to 
ascend  to  the  summit,  and  enjoy  from  thence  a  prospect  of  great- 
beauty  and  extent.  But  one  woman,  we  believe,  has  ever  accom- 
plished this  feat,  which  severely  tasks  the  strength  of  manhood. 

"We  will  now  follow  the  tenateros,  as  they  load  the  car  with  the 
contents  of  their  sacks,  and  run  after  it  into  the  open  air.  There 
they  go,  with  shouts  of  laughter ;  and  really,  as  one  emerges  into 
the  warm  sunshine,  the  change  is  most  inspiriting.  They  have 
reached  the  end  of  the  track,  and  throw  off  the  great  lumps  of  ore 
without  an  effort,  as  if  they  were  mere  cabbages.  What  capacious 
chests,  and  how  gaily  they  work  !  Such  gleeful  activity  we  never 
before  beheld.  The  large  lumps  deposited,  they  now  seize  shovels, 
and  jumping  on  the  cars,  the  small  lumps  mixed  with  earth  are 
cleared  off  with  the  most  astonishing  celerity.  Do  but  behold 
that  fellow  of  Doric  build,  with  brawny  muscles,  and  who  is  a 
perfect  fac  simile  of  Hercules,  as  he  stood  engraved  with  his  club, 
as  we  remember  him  in  Bell  or  Tooke's  Pantheon ! 

"  The  ore  deposited  on  the  jjatio,  another  set  of  laborers  engage 
in  separating  the  large  lumps  and  reducing  them  to  the  size  of 
common  paving  stones,  which  are  placed  by  themselves.  The 
smaller  pieces  are  put  in  a  separate  pile,  while  the  earth  (tierra)  is 
sifted  through  coarse  sieves  for  the  purpose  of  being  made  into 
adobes.  There  is  also  a  blacksmith's  shop  for  making  and  repair- 
ing implements.  The  miner  is  not  paid  by  the  day,  but  receives 
pay  for  the  ore  he  extracts.   They  usually  work  in  parties  of  from 


9 


QUICKSILVER  MINES.  167 

two  to  ten  ;  half  the  number  work  during  the  day,  the  other  half 
by  night,  and  in  this  manner  serve  as  checks  upon  each  other. 
Should  a  drone  get  into  the  number,  complaint  is  made  to  the 
engineer,  who  has  to  settle  such  matters,  which  he  generally  does 
by  placing  him  with  a  set  nearer  his  capacity,  or  sometimes  by  a 
discharge.  The  price  of  the  ore  is  settled  by  agreement  for  each 
week.  Should  the  passage  be  more  than  commonly  laborious, 
they  do  not  earn  much ;  or  if,  on  the  contrary,  it  proves  to  be  easy 
and  of  great  richness,  the  gain  is  theirs  ;  it  being  not  infrequent 
for  them  to  make  from  thirty  to  forty  dollars  a  week  a-piece,  and 
seldom  less  than  fifteen.  In  those  parts  of  the  mine  where  the 
ore  is  worthless,  but  still  has  to  be  extracted  in  order  to  reach 
that  which  will  pay,  or  to  promote  ventilation,  they  are  paid  by 
the  square  vara,*  at  a  stipulated  price.  They  do  nothing  with 
getting  the  ore  to  the  patio  ;  this  is  done  by  the  tenateros  at  the 
company's  expense,  as  is  also  the  separating,  sifting,  and  weighing. 
Each  party  have  their  ore  kept  separate  ;  it  is  weighed  twice  a 
week  and  an  account  taken.  They  select  one  of  their  party  who 
receives  the  pay  and  divides  it  among  his  fellows. 

"The  tenateros  receive  three  dollars  per  diem;  the  sifters  and 
weighers,  two  dollars  and  a  half;  blacksmiths  and  bricklayers, 
five  and  six  ;  while  carpenters  are  paid  the  city  price  of  eight 
dollars  a  day.  These  wages  seem  to  be  very  just  and  liberal,  yet, 
such  is  their  improvidence,  that  no  matter  how  much  they  earn, 
the  miners  are  not  one  peso  better  off  at  the  end  of  the  month 
than  they  were  at  its  beginning.  No  provision  being  made  for 
sickness  or  age,  when  that  time  comes,  as  come  it  will,  there  is 
nothing  for  them  to  do  but,  like  some  worn-out  old  charger,  lie 
down  and  die.  This  has  reference  exclusively  to  the  Mexicans ; 
and  it  is  a  pity  that  a  Savings  Bank  could  not  be  established,  and 
made  popular  among  them.  They  number  between  two  and 
three  hundred  in  all ;  but  they  are,  perhaps,  the  most  impractic- 
able people  in  the  world,  going  on  as  their  fathers  did  before  them, 
firmly  believing  in  the  axiom,  that  '  sufficient  unto  the  day  is  the 
evil  thereof.'" 


*  A  vara  is  thirty-three  and  one-third  inches. 


16S 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


Unfortunately,  this  mine  lias  been  closed  by  an  injunction  from 
the  United  States  Court  since  the  above  was  written,  and  an  ex- 
pensive and  tedious  lawsuit  been  carried  on. 

THE  HENEIQUITA  QUICKSILVER  JUNE, 

Is  the  name  of  a  newly  opened  quicksilver  mine,  situated  in  a 
beautiful  and  romantic  valley  on  Guadalupe  Creek,  at  the  ex- 
treme western  point  of  the  same  range  of  hills  as  that  of  New 
Almaden,  and  about  four  and  a  half  miles  from  it.  This  mine 
was  discovered  in  1S4-7,  but  was  not  attempted  to  be  worked 
till  1850,  when  a  company  was  formed  and  operations  com- 
menced ;  but,  owing  to  the  high  price  of  labor  and  supplies,  and 
the  company  running  short  of  funds,  after  a  few  months,  were 
suspended.  In  1855,  a  new  company  was  formed  and  incorporated 
by  charter,  from  the  legislature  of  Maryland,  under  the  title  of 
the  "  Santa  Clara  Mining  Association,  of  Baltimore,1'  with  a  suffi- 
cient working  capital  to  open  the  mine,  erect  the  necessary 
smelting  works,  and  carry  them  on. 

"  Veins  of  quicksilver,"  writes  a  friend,  "  were  long  since  known 
to  exist  in  these  hills,  but,  owing  to  the  difficulty  of  finding 
sufficient  quantities  of  ore  to  render  mining  remunerative,  nothing 
of  importance  was  attempted.  In  November,  1858,  Mr.  Laurence! 
employed  a  party  of  Irish  and  Mexican  miners  to  prospect  it 
more  thoroughly,  and  several  places  were  found  to  be  of  good 
promise,  and  opened.  One  was  called  the  Procidentia  Mine, 
another  was  placed  under  the  protection  of  Saint  Patrick,  and  at 
length,  in  January,  1859,  the  present  Henriquita  mine  was  found 
and  immediately  opened.  During  the  winter  and  spring  quite 
a  limited  number  of  men  carried  on  the  work,  but  the  labors  of 
these  few  were  sufficient,  to  prove  that  there  existed  a  large  de- 
posit. In  the  beginning  of  June  the  work  was  advanced  upon 
a  larger  scale,  and  preparations  were  made  to  put  up  the  proper 
machinery  for  reducing  the  ore.  Every  thing  was  done  with  dis- 
patch, and  on  the  spot  where  stood  a  forest  in  June,  we  saw  now 
an  establishment  so  far  advanced  as  to  promise  to  go  into  opera- 


quicksilVkii  mines. 


109 


tion,  producing  quicksilver,  early  in  September  ;  good  proof  of 
the  energy  and  activity  of  our  California  miners. 

"The  system  adopted  for  the  reduction  of  ores  is,  I  under- 
stand, the  same  that  was  employed  by  Dr.  lire,  many  years 
since,  at  the  mines  of  Obermoschel,  in  the  Bavarian  Rhein 
Kreis,  and  which  has  proved  to  be  much  superior  to  the  systems 
in  practice  at  the  Almaden  mine  in  Spain,  and  the  Jdria  mine  of 
Austria. 

"What  the  production  of  this  mine  will  be,  is  impossible  to 
foresee  ;  but  quite  a  little  mountain  of  ore,  already  taken  out, 
and  what  we  saw  in  our  descent  into  the  mine,  looks  well  for  the 
future  prospect.  A  large  number  of  Mexican  miners  were  at 
work,  and  as  we  passed  their  different  parties,  I  broke  from  the 
rocky  walls  a  number  of  pieces,  which,  on  coming  to  the  light  of 
day,  proved  to  be  rich  ore. 

"  The  location  of  the  Henriquita  mine  is  one  of  considerable 
beauty.  A  picturesque  valley  below,  with  the  winding  stream 
of  the  Capitancillos,  and  pleasant  groves  of  oaks  and  sycamores, 
looks  up  on  one  hand  to  the  hill  where  the  mine  is  perched, 
some  three  hundred  and  forty  or  fifty  feet  above,  and  on  the  other 
to  the  rugged  mountain,  rising  to  the  height  of  between  three  and 
four  thousand  feet.  The  mine  employs  about  one  hundred 
laborers  of  all  classes  ;  the  families  added  would  make  a  total 
population  already  of  about  four  hundred  persons.  A  little 
village  has  sprung  up  near  the  works,  containing  many  neat 
cottages,  a  hotel,  and  several  stores.  Two  lines  of  stages  run 
daily  between  the  mine  and  the  city  of  San  Jose. 

"  While  here  I  visited  also  another  spot  of  considerable  interest 
— a  gigantic  oak,  standing  upon  a  prominent  spur  of  the  moun- 
tains on  the  south.  It  measures  some  thirty-six  feet  in  circum- 
ference, and  is,  I  doubt  not,  the  largest  of  its  family  in  California. 
From  its  commanding  position  and  size,  it  is  visible  at  a  great 
distance,  still  towering  high,  when  all  the  trees  around  it  are 
dwarfed  into  the  appearance  of  mere  underbrush. 

"In  leaving  the  Henriquita  mine,  I  was  more  than  ever  reminded 
of  the  immense  mineral  resources  of  our  State,  and  of  the  industry 
8 


170 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


of  our  people.  The  works  of  years  in  older  countries,  were  here 
the  labor  of  a  few  short  months  only. 

"  The  county  of  Santa  Clara  will  find  in  this  mine  a  new  source 
of  wealth,  and  must  rejoice  at  the  diligent  prosecution  of  an  enter- 
prise so  important.  As  an  old  miner,  I  was  gratified  at  what  I 
saw.  What  the  California  miner  needs  is  cheap  quicksilver;  but, 
as  long  as  its  supply  is  limited,  it  is  kept  up  at  exorbitant  prices. 
With  an  increased  production  and  a  healthy  competition,  we  may 
expect  soon  to  see  it  at  such  a  price  as  will  render  it  hereafter  a 
small  item  only  in  the  working  of  the  quartz  mines,  so  important 
a  source  of  wealth  and  prosperity  to  California. 

DEDICATORY  CEREMONY  OF  BLESSING  THE  MINE. 

"The  interesting  dedicatory  ceremonial  of  Blessing  the  Mine  is  a 
custom  of  long  standing  in  many  Catholic  countries,  where  mining 
is  carried  on,  especially  among  those  people  who  speak  the  Spanish 
language.  Without  it,  workmen  would  feel  a  religious  dread,  and 
consequently  a  timid  reluctance  to  enter  upon  their  daily  labors, 
lest  some  accidental  mishap  should  overtake  them  from  such  an 
omission.  After  this  has  been  duly  performed,  great  care  is  taken 
to  erect  a  shrine,  be  it  ever  so  rude,  at  some  convenient  point 
within  the  mine,  to  some  favorite  tutelary  saint  or  protectress, 
whose  benediction  they  evoke.  Before  this  shrine,  each  workman 
devoutly  kneels,  crosses  himself,  and  repeats  his  Ave  Maria,  or 
Paternoster,  prior  to  entering  upon  the  duties  and  engagements 
of  the  day.  At  this  spot,  candles  are  kept  burning,  both  by  day 
and  night,  and  the  place  is  one  of  sacred  awe  to  all  good  Catholics. 
The  blessing  and  dedication  of  a  mine  is,  consequently,  an  era  of 
importance,  and  one  not  to  be  lightly  passed  over,  or  indifferently 
celebrated. 

"  On  the  morning  of  the  day  set  apart  for  this  ceremony,  at  the 
Henriquita  or  San  Antonio  quicksilver  mine,  the  Mexican  and 
Chilian  seiiors  and  senoras  began  to  flock  into  the  little  village  at 
the  foot  of  the  canon,  from  all  the  surrounding  country,  in  antici- 
pation of  a  general  holiday,  at  an  early  hour. 

"  Of  course,  at  such  a  time,  the  proprietor  sends  out  invitations 


QUICKSILVER  MINES. 


171 


to  those  guests  he  is  particularly  desirous  should  be  present  to  do 
honor  to  the  event ;  hut  no  such  form  is  needed  among  the 
workmen  and  their  friends  or  acquaintances,  as  they  understand 
that  the  ceremony  itself  is  a  general  invitation  to  all,  and  they 
avail  themselves  of  it  accordingly. 

''Arriving  in  procession  at  the  entrance  to  the  mine,  Father 
Goetz,  the  Catholic  curate  of  San  Jose,  performed  mass,  and 


THE  HENRIQU1TA  QUICKSILVER  MINE,  ON  THE  MORNING  OF  DEDICATION. 


formally  blessed  the  mine,  and  all  persons  present,  and  all  those 
who  might  work  in  it ;  during  which  service  a  band  of  musicians 
was  playing  a  number  of  airs.  At  the  close,  fire-crackers  and  the 
boom  of  a  gun  cut  in  the  ground,  announced  the  conclusion  of  the 
ceremony  on  the  outside ;  when  they  all  repaired  to  the  inside, 
where  the  Father  proceeded  to  sprinkle  holy  water,  and  to  bless  it. 

"  These  duly  performed,  they  repaired  to  the  village,  near  which 
is  the  beautiful  residence  of  Mr.  Laurencel,  its  proprietor,  where, 
in  a  lovely  grove  of  sycamores,  several  tables  were  erected  and 
bounteously  covered  with  good  things  for  the  inner  man.  Here 
were  feasted  nearly  two  hundred  guests,  of  both  sexes,  with  choice 


172 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


viands,  i;i  magnificent  profusion,  while  native  wines,  and  other 
light  potables,  flowed  in  abundance.  A  large  number  of  specially 
invited  guests  were  at  the  same  time  hospitably  and  courteously 
entertained  within  the  house  by  Mr.  Lanrencel,  his  lady,  and  her 
household.  After  dinner,  there  was  music  and  dancing  upon  the 
green,  exhibitions  of  skilful  horsemanship,  and  a  variety  of  amuse- 
ments, which  were  participated  in  by  the  assembled  company 
with  the  utmost  zest,  and  were  kept  up,  we  understand,  until  a 
late  hour.  The  day  chosen  for  this  festival  was  the  day  of  San 
Antonio,  the  patron  saint  of  the  mine,  and  the  birthday  of  the 
little  Henrkpiita,  Mr.  Laurencel's  daughter,  the  more  immediate 
patroness  of  the  same." 


MOUNT  SHASTA. 


173 


VIEW  OF  MOUNT  SHASTA,  THIRTY  MILES  DISTANT. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

MOUNT  SHASTA 

Is  located  at  the  head  of  the  Sacramento  Valley,  in  latitude 
41°  30',  and  is  the  main  source  of  the  Sacramento  River.  Without 
doubt,  it  is  the  highest  mountain  in  California,  estimated  by 
Lieutenant  Williamson  at  eighteen  thousand  feet  above  the  sea ; 
and  is  considered  by  him  to  be  an  isolated  volcanic  mass,  that  is 
the  starting  point  of  numerous  chains  of  mountains ;  and,  conse- 
quently, does  not  belong  either  to  the  main  Sierra  Nevada  or  Coast 
Range. 

Covered  with  snow  at  all  seasons  of  the  year — the  only  one  in 
the  State  that  can  be  so  considered — it  is  one  of  those  glorious  and 


174 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


awe-inspiring  scenes  which  greet  the  traveller's  eye,  and  fill  his 
mind  with  wondering  admiration,  as  he  journeys  among  the  bold 
and  beautiful  mountains  of  our  own  California.  One  almost 
wishes  to  kneel  in  worship  as  he  gazes  at  the  magnificent,  snow- 
covered  head  and  pine-girded  base  of  this  "  monarch  of  moun- 
tains ;"  and  even  as  you  ascend  the  valley  of  the  Sacramento, 
Mount  Shasta  appears  to  you  like  a  huge  mountain  of  snow  just 
beyond  the  purple  hills  of  the  horizon ;  and  is  a  constant  land- 
mark upon  which  to  look,  and  which  one  unconsciously  feels  him- 
self constrained  to  notice,  as  something  even  more  remarkable 
and  inviting  than  the  green  and  flower-covered  valley  beside  him. 

ASCENT  OF  MOUNT  SHASTA  ALONE. 

As  we  are  favored  with  the  following  graphic  sketch  of  an  ascent 
— alone — by  Israel  S.  Diehl,  we  shall  allow  him,  without  comment, 
to  relate  his  interesting  narrative : 

"  The  morning  of  the  ninth  of  October,  1855,  opened  beautiful 
and  bright ;  the  earth  had  been  cooled  by  refreshing  showers 
which  had  copiously  fallen  during  the  night,  as  I  took  up  my  line 
of  march  from  Yreka  to  Mount  Shasta,  to  make  its  ascent,  if  pos- 
sible. Notwithstanding  the  extensive  arrangements  by  way  of 
talk  and  promises,  that  were  made  by  the  company  contemplating 
the  same  visit  (alas  for  California  pleasure  parties),  when  the 
eventful  day  came,  I  was  reluctantly  compelled  to  start  on  my 
journey  alone,  dependent  upon  circumstances  for  the  social  pleas- 
ures that  add  so  much  to  such  a  romantic  trip.  No  equipped 
and  noted  travellers,  officers,  literati,  or  blooming  lively  belles, 
whose  merry,  joyful  laugh  and  bright  countenances  could  add  so 
much  of  interest,  were  my  attendants ;  and  thus  '  solitary  and 
alone,'  and  somewhat  fearful  because  of  the  stupendous  and  un- 
known undertaking,  by  any  single  traveller,  I  slowly,  yet  deter- 
minedly, set  out  upon  my  journey. 

"  From  the  western  side  of  Shasta  Valley,  Mount  Shasta  was  in 
full  view  before  me,  in  all  its  beauty  and  glory,  as  it  reared  its 
majestic  head  some  seventeen  thousand  feet  into  the  heavens, 
while  its  sides  were  covered  with  the  deep-driven  snow  of  ages, 


MOUNT  SIIASTA. 


175 


adding  so  much  antiquity  to  the  inspiring  awe,  as  if  to  say,  'I  am 
the  mighty  monarch  and  sentinel  of  this  western  coast,'  and 
almost  steadily  did  my  unweary,  wondering  eyes  gaze  admiringly 
upon  the  scene  hefore  me — hundreds  of  peaked  little  hillocks 
dotted  the  Shasta  Valley  for  twenty-five  miles  around,  like  so 
many  attendants  (evidently  all  lesser  volcanic  formations),  while 
the  Shasta  River,  and  other  smaller  streams,  clear  as  crystal,  and 
icy  cold,  sprang  from  its  side. 

"  For  a  day  and  a  half  did  I  ride  steadily  on  and  around  it,  to 
make  its  ascent ;  all  the  time  with  the  mountain  in  full  view,  and 
apparently  but  a  little  way  off,  deceiving  even  the  best  eye  on  cal- 
culation. 

"For  two  nights,  ere  my  ascent,  did  I  watch  the  setting  sun, 
with  its  purple  rays  lingering  and  playing  for  twenty  or  thirty 
minutes  around  its  brow,  when,  to  all  other  mountains,  the  sun 
had  set.    That  scene  was  beautiful  beyond  description. 

"  By  the  noon  of  the  second  day,  I  had  rounded  the  Mount  to 
its  south  side,  and  fed  my  weary  horse  and  self  at  the  beautiful 
Strawberry  Valley  Ranche,  or  Gordon's,  after  which,  with  indefinite 
and  unsatisfactory  directions,  I  bade  adieu  to  every  hope  of  seeing 
another  person  ere  my  fate  became  decided.  Fearful  accounts 
and  warnings  were  given  of  grizzlies,  California  lions,  avalanches, 
falling  rocks  and  stones,  with  deep  canon  crevices,  by  and  in 
which  I  might  perish,  and  have  no  burial  or  resurrection  until  the 
'  Resurrection  Morn  ;'  but,  unwilling  to  give  up,  and  trusting  in 
God,  with  a  good  horse,  and  a  bag  of  provisions,  I  commenced 
the  ascent. 

"  For  twelve  or  fifteen  miles,  I  followed  a  blind  snow  trail  through 
bushes  of  manzanita,  and  other  obstacles,  which  almost  threw  me 
from  my  horse ;  and  would  surely  have  torn  my  garments  had  I 
not  been  equipped  with  a  good  new  suit  of  buckskin.  After  an 
arduous  journey,  I  reached  the  upper  edge  of  the  belt  of  trees,  and 
of  the  horse  trail,  but  not  until  the  sun  had  set.  Night  came  on, 
rendering  it  too  dark  to  find  water  for  myself  and  animal  until  ten 
o'clock  at  night. 

"  After  much  difficulty,  a  fire  was  kindled,  (as  the  last  matches 


17G 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


were  being  used)  to  keep  off  the  grizzlies  and  lions,  but,  unfor- 
tunately, from  the  scarcity  of  trees  and  the  amount  of  dead  wood 
lying  around,  I  set  fire  to  all  about  me.  This  drove  me  out,  and 
excluded  me  altogether :  so,  making  a  shelter  of  my  saddle  and 
mochila,  and  wrapping  myself  in  my  saddle-blanket,  I  crept  un- 
derneath them,  covering  my  head  and  feet,  saving,  "  Mr.  Grizzly, 
you  must  take  saddle  and  all,  or  none."  Between  shivering 
with  cold,  dozing,  fearing,  and  dreaming,  I  awoke,  and  awaited 
the  dawn  of  day.  At  last  it  came — gladly  to  me — when,  after 
feeding  my  horse  and  bidding  him  adieu,  I  commenced  the  as- 
cent. 

"  On  the  east  side  of  the  west  spur,  and  the  south  side  of  the 
mountain,  there  were  vast  quantities  of  clink  and  volcanic  stones, 
and  for  four  weary  hours  I  never  set  my  foot  off  broken  stone, 
but  up,  up,  up,  over  rocks  and  stones,  till  I  reached  the  base  of  an 
almost  perpendicular  ledge  of  rocks,  the  so-called  lied  Bluffs, 
which  I  found  to  be  indurated  clay,  colored  by  the  peroxyd  of 
iron.  Through  a  little  ravine  I  struggled  on,  on,  climbing  for  one 
more  painful  hour,  while  large  masses  of  rock,  becoming  loosened, 
went  bounding  to  the  awful  abyss  below. 

"  After  reaching  what  I  thought  the  desired  summit,  imagine 
my  surprise  to  look  over  fields  of  lava,  scoria,  snow,  and  fearful 
glaciers.  I  now  had  to  cross  ravines  or  fissures,  from  fifty  to 
one  hundred  feet  deep,  and  from  one  hundred  to  three  hundred 
feet  wide,  and  worn  through  a  solid  mass  of  conglomerates,  and 
sometimes  half  filled  with  snow  and  ice,  the  ice  lying  in  perfect, 
ridges,  resembling  the  waves  on  the  ocean,  and  were  both  sharp  and 
dangerous  to  cross.  I  slipped  and  fell  several  times,  once  coming 
near  being  dashed  thousands  of  feet  below.  After  ascending  for 
another  hour,  among  this  strangely  mingled  mass,  hoping  again 
to  have  reached  the  long  desired  summit,  I  was  both  disappointed 
and  pleased  to  see  the  table-land  of  snow  from  one-fourth  to  one- 
half  mile  in  diameter,  Avhere  it  lay  from  one  hundred  to  probably 
one  thousand  and  more  feet  deep,  as  I  could  look  down  into  fis- 
sures where  it  had  sagged  apart,  for  a  fearful  depth,  and  from  this 
field,  a  few  hundred  l'eet  from  the  summit,  the  Sacramento  River 


MOUNT  SHASTA. 


177 


takes  its  rise ;  running  through  the  deep  gorges,  sometimes  on  top, 
then  hidden,  then  appearing  at  the  summit  of  hills,  then  concealed 
for  miles,  it  breaks  forth  in  magnificent  springs  and  miniature 
rivers,  with  sulphur  and  soda  springs  intermixed. 

"  After  crossing  tire  field  of  ice  with  great  difficulty,  on  account 
of  the  sun  melting  the  snow  from  the  east  and  south,  while  the 
wind  and  cold  froze  it  from  the  west  and  north,  thus  rendering  it 
dangerous,  I  reached  another  perfect  mountain  of  loose  and  coarse 
lava,  ashes,  and  other  volcanic  matter,  through  which  I  waded, 
although  a  foot  in  depth,  for  some  distance ;  and  as  I  ascended,  I 
caught  a  full  and  first  view  of  the  actual  summit,  which  I  imagine 
is  not  seen  from  below,  as  it  is  a  perfectly  bare  crag  or  comb  of 
rocks,  while  the  sides  and  top  around  are  so  covered  as  to  hide  the 
real  summit.  Across  another  field  of  snow,  and  I  was  evidently 
upon  the  original  and  main  crater,  a  concavity  covering  several 
acres,  almost  hemmed  in  by  a  considerable  rim  of  rocks,  and  here  I 
came  upon  the  long  sought  hot  and  sulphur  springs ;  and  here, 
free  from  wind  and  snow,  finding  it  warm  and  comfortable  after 
being  nearly  benumbed  with  cold,  I  warmed,  and  took  a  hasty 
meal ;  and  in  my  haste  to  warm  my  fingers,  nearly  lost  them  by 
awfully  scalding  them.  • 

"  I  spent  nearly  an  hour  here,  contemplating  and  watching  this 
wonderful  view.  A  hundred  little  boiling  springs  were  gurgling 
and  bubbling  up  through  a  bed  of  sulphur,  and  emitting  steam 
enough  to  drive  a  small  factory  (if  well  applied),  while  all  around 
lay  the  everlasting  snow. 

"  After  resting,  I  made  the  final  summit,  a  few  hundred  feet 
above,  composed  of  a  perfect  edge  or  comb  of  rocks,  running 
nearly  north  and  south,  and  from  this  summit,  perhaps  the 
highest,  variously  estimated  at  from  sixteen  thousand  five  hun- 
dred, to  seventeen  thousand  five  hundred  feet,  and  decidedly  the 
most  magnificent  of  our  Union,  if  not  of  the  continent,  I  could 
look  around  and  see  '  all  the  kingdoms  of  this  lower  world,'  [Did 
you  tempt  any  one,  Mr.  Diehl  ?] 

"  Looking  to  the  westward,  far  beyond  the  Scott,  Trinity,  Siski- 
yoxi,  and  Coast  Range  of  mountains,  I  imagined  I  saw  the  proud 
8* 


178 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


Pacific.  Northward,  looking  far  over  into  Oregon,  one  could  see 
her  peaks,  her  vallies,  and  lakes,  to  the  Dalles,  and  what  I  took  to 
be  Mount  Hood.  East,  far  over  the  Sierras  into  Utah,  and  the 
deserts,  while  beautiful  lakes  lay  like  bright  meadows,  far  in  the 
distance.  South,  I  could  trace  the  Sacramento  and  Pitt  Rivers, 
far  below  Shasta,  where  they  were  lost  in  the  smoke  and  haze,  but 
on  the  south-west  I  could  clearly  see  Mount  Linn,  Mount  St.  John, 
and  Ripley,  and  above  the  haze,  could  distinctly  see  the  Marys- 
ville  Buttes,  if  not  the  top  of  Mount  Diablo  (as  I  have  clearly  seen 
Mount  Shasta  from  the  summit  of  Mount  Diablo).  South-east,  I 
could  trail  the  Sierras  by  the  Lassen,  Spanish,  Pilot,  Seventy-six, 
Downieville,  and  other  peaks,  to  the  range  below  Lake  Bigler,  or 
to  Carson  Yalley. 

"  I  contemplated  the  unsurpassed  scenery  presented  to  my  eye, 
for  hours.  The  day  was  clear  and  beautiful,  after  our  first  October 
rains,  while  the  scenery  was  delightful  beyond  description.  And 
upon  that  peak  I  planted  the  temperance  banner,  side  by  side 
with  the  American  flag  (placed  there  in  1852,  by  Captain  Prince), 
deposited  some  California  papers  and  documents  in  the  rocks,  for 
safe  keeping,  as  the  papers  carried  up  in  1852  were  unharmed, 
and*fresh  as  ever.  Then,  with  a  great  reluctance,  notwithstanding 
the  wind,  cold,  loneliness,  and  coming  night,  I  was  compelled  to 
beat  a  descent. 

"  The  sun  was  fast  declining.  My  watch  told  three  r.  M.,  when 
I  collected  my  minerals,  sulphurs,  and  all  objects  of  interest,  for  a 
future  and  fuller  description,  and  bidding  adieu  to  the  magnificent 
sights,  with  a  promise  of  a  return  some  day,  I  commenced  the 
descent,  and  in  three  hours'  running,  jumping,  tumbling,  sliding 
on  the  snow,  from  one-fourth  to  one-half  a  mile  at  a  time,  in  a  few 
moments — having  a  glorious  time,  easier  by  far,  and  fuller  of  enjoy- 
ment than  the  ascent — I  found  my  horse,  mounted,  and  hastened 
away ;  and  after  a  concatenation  of  circumstances,  lost  and  bewil- 
dered, at  twelve  at  night,  dismounted,  unsaddled  and  loosed  my 
horse ;  weary  and  exhausted,  nature  gave  way,  sleep  concpiered, 
and  until  dawn  of  clay,  I  knew  no  trouble  save  the  piercing  cold, 
and  woke  to  find  my  trusty  horse  missing,  giving  me  a  half  day's 


MOUNT  SHASTA.  179 

hunt  to  recapture  him,  when,  hy  perils  by  river,  land,  and  Indians, 
I  followed  the  Sacramento  down  one  hundred  miles  to  Shasta,  to 
spend  the  Sabbath,  after  six  days'  labor — much  better  and  hap- 
pier for  my  ascent  of  Mount  Shasta." 


180 


SCKNES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


THE  SOUTH  FARALLONE  ISLAND,  FROM  THE  BIG  ROOKERY,  LOOKING  HAST. 

CHAPTER  VIII. 
THE  FARALLONE  ISLANDS. 


This  is  the  name  of  a  small  group  of  rocky  islands,  lying  in  the 
Pacific  Ocean,  ahout  twenty-seven  miles  west  of  the  Golden  Gate, 
and  thirty-five  miles  from  San  Francisco.  These  islands  have 
become  of  some  importance,  and  of  considerable  interest,  on 
account  of  the  vast  quantity  of  eggs  that  are  there  annually 
gathered,  for  the  California  market ;  these  eggs  having  become 


THE  FAKALLONE  ISLANDS. 


181 


an  almost  indispensable  article  of  spring  and  summer  consumption, 
to  many  persons. 

By  the  courtesy  of  the  Farallone  Egg  Company,  through  their 
President,  Captain  Richardson,  the  schooner  Louise,  Captain 
Harlow,  was  placed  at  our  service,  for  the  purpose  of  visiting 
them ;  and,  in  company  with  a  small  party  of  friends,  we  were 
soon  upon  the  deep  green  brine,  ploughing  our  way  to  the  "  Isles 
of  the  Ocean." 

Bright  and  beautiful  slept  the  morning,  as  a  light  breeze, 
blowing  gently  from  the  mountains,  filled  our  sails,  and  sped  us  on 
our  way  through 

THE  GOLDEN  GATE. 

There  are  probably  but  few  persons,  comparatively,  who  have 
ever  passed  through  this  entrance  to  the  fine  Bay  of  San  Francisco, 
that  are  familiar  with  the  origin  and  meaning  of  the  name,  the 
popular  idea  being  that  its  name  was  suggested  by  the  staple 
mineral  of  the  country — gold.  This  is  incorrect,  as  it  was  called 
"The  Golden  Gate"  before  th«  precious  metal  was  discovered; 
and  the  first  time  that  it  was  used,  most  probably,  was  in  a  work 
entitled  "  A  Geographical  Review  of  California,"  with  a  relative 
map,  published  in  New  York,  in  the  month  of  February,  18-18,  by 
Colonel  J.  C.  Fremont ;  and  as  gold  was  discovered  on  the  19tl) 
of  January  preceding,  in  those  days  it  would  have  been  next  to 
impossible  for  the  news  to  have  reached  the  office  of  publication 
of  that  work,  in  time  for  the  name  to  be  given,  from  such  a  cause. 

The  real  origin  of  the  name  was  from  the  excessively  fertile 
lands  of  the  interior — especially  of  those  adjacent  to  the  Bay  of 
San  Francisco.  There  may  have  been  some  "Spiritual  Telegrams" 
sent  from  California  (!)  to  the  parent  of  the  name,  telling  him  of 
the  glorious  dawn  of  a  Golden  Day  that  had  broke  upon  the  world 
at  Sutter's  Mill,  Coloma,  and  that  such  a  name  would  be  the 
magic  charm  (to  millions  of  men  and  women  in  every  quarter  of 
the  world,  in  the  Golden  Age  about  to  be  inaugurated.  We  do 
not  say  that  it  was  so.  We  do  not  wish  the  reader  to  believe  it, 
as  our  opinion,  that  it  was  thus  originated ;  but  in  this  age  of 


182 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


spiritual  darkness — we  allude  to  the  limited  knowledge  of  mental 
phenomena — we  start  the  supposition,  in  hope  that  it  may  stir  up 
the  spirit  of  inquiry.  This  one  thing  is  certain,  that  from 
whatever  source  the  name  "Golden  Gate"  may  have  originated, 
it  was  most  happily  suggestive  in  its  character.  Having  dwelt  at 
some  length  upon  the  name,  we  will  now  more  briefly  describe 
the  spot. 

That  it  is  the  gateway  or  entrance  to  the  magnificent  harbor  of 
San  Francisco,  every  one  is  well  aware.  The  centre  of  this 
entrance  is  in  latitude  122°  30'  "W.  from  Greenwich.  On  the 
south  of  the  entrance,  is  Point  Lobos  (Wolves1  Point),  on  the  top 
of  which  is  a  telegraph  station,  from  Avhence  the  tidings  of  the 
arrival  of  steamers  and  sailing  vessels  are  sent  to  the  city.  On 
the  north  side,  is  Point  Bonita  (Beautiful  Point),  readily  recognized 
by  a  strip  of  land  running  out  toward  the  bar,  on  the  top  of 
which  is  a  light-house,  that  is  seen  far  out  to  sea,  on  a  clear  day, 


CLIPPER  SHIP  CROSSING  THE  BAR  OITTSTHE  THE  ENTRANCE  OP  THE  BAY  OF  SAN  FRANCISCO. 


THE  FARALLONE  ISLANDS. 


183 


but  seldom  before  that  on  the  Farallone  Islands,  some  twenty-seven 
miles  west  of  Point  Bonita. 

In  front  of  the  entrance  is  a  low,  circular  sand-bar,  almost  seven 
miles  in  length,  but  on  which  is  sufficient  water,  even  at  low  tide, 
to  admit  of  the  largest  class  of  ships  crossing  it  in  safety — except, 
possibly,  when  the  wind  is  blowing  from  the  north-west,  west,  or 
south-east ;  at  such  a  time,  it  is  scarcely  safe  for  a  very  large 
vessel  to  cross  it  at  low  tide. 

From  Point  Bonita  to  Point  Lobos,  the  distance  is  about  three 
and  a  half  miles ;  and  between  Fort  Point  and  Lime  Point  (just 
opposite  each  other),  the  narrowest  part  of  the  channel,  and  "  The 
Golden  Gate"  proper,  it  is  one  thousand  seven  hundred  and 
seventy-seven  yards.  Here  the  tide  ebbs  and  flows  at  the  rate  of 
about  six  knots  an  hour. 

CROSSING  THE  BAK. 

To  the  dwellers  of  a  seaport  city,  there  is  music  in  the  ever 
restless  waves,  as  they  murmur  and  break  upon  the  shore;  but  to 
sail  upon  the  broad,  heaving  bosom  of  the  ocean,  gives  an  impres- 
sion of  profoundness  and  majesty,  that,  by  contrast,  becomes  a 
source  of  peaceful  pleasure ;  as  change  becomes  rest  to  the  weary. 
There  is  a  vastness,  around,  above,  beneath  you,  as  wave  after 
wave,  and  swell  after  swell,  lifts  your  tiny  vessel  upon  its  seething 
surface,  as  though  it  were  a  feather — a  floating  atom  upon  the 
broad  expanse  of  waters.  Then,  to  look  into  its  shadowy  depth, 
and  feel  the  sublime  language  of  the  Psalmist:  k  O  Lord,  how 
manifold  are  thy  works!  in  wisdom  hast  Thou  made  them  all :  the 
earth  is  full  of  thy  riches.  So  is  this  great  and  wide  sea,  wherein 
are  things  creeping  innumerable,  both  small  and  great  beasts. 
These  wait  all  upon  Thee :  that  Thou  mayest  give  them  their  meat 
in  due  season.  Thou  openest  thy  hand,  they  are  filled  with  good. 
Thou  hidest  thy  face,  they  are  troubled."  "They  that  go  down 
to  the  sea  in  ships,  that  do  business  in  great  waters :  these  see  the 
works  of  the  Lord,  and  his  wonders  in  the  deep.  He  commandeth, 
and  raiseth  the  stormy  wind,  which  lifteth  up  the  waves  thereof. 
He  maketh  the  storm  a  calm,  so  that  the  waves  thereof  are  still." 


184 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


"  Oh,  that  men  would  praise  the  Lord  for  his  goodness,  for  his 
wonderful  works  to  the  children  of  men ! " 

Object  after  object  became  distant  and  less,  as  we  left  them  far, 
far  behind  us. 

"  Yonder  blows  a  whale  !  "  cries  one. 

"Where?" 

"Just  off  our  larboard  bow." 

"Oh!  I  see  it — but''  

"But!  what's  the  matter?" 
"  Oh  !  I  feel  so  sea-sick." 

"Well,  never  mind  that;  look  up,  and  don't  think  about  it." 
"  Oh— I  can't — I  must"  

Reader,  were  you  ever  sea-sick  ?  If  your  experience  enables 
you  to  answer  in  the  affirmative,  you  will  sympathize  somewhat 
with  the  poor  subject  of  it.    Yonder  may  be  this  beauty,  and  that 


ENCHANTED  WITH  THE  DELIGHTFUL  PROSPECT  OFF  THE  BAR. 


wonder,  but  a  "  don' t-car eishncss"  comes  over  you,  and  if  all  the 
remarkable  scenes  in  creation  were  just  before  you,  "  I  don't  care" 


THE  FAKALLONE  ISLANDS. 


185 


is  written  upon  the  face,  as  yon  beseechingly  seem  to  say:  '''•Pray 
don't  trouble  me — my  hands  are  full."  Whales,  sea-gulls,  por- 
poises, and  even  the  white,  foamy  spray,  that  is  curling  over 
Duxbury  Reef,  are  alike  unheeded. 

"  IIow  are  you  now  ?"  kindly  asks  our  good-natured  captain, 
of  the  one  and  the  other. 

"Ah!  thank  you;  I  am  better." 

"Here,  take  a  cup  of  nice  hot  coffee." 

"No;  I  thank  you." 

The  mere  mention  of  any  thing  to  eat  or  drink  is  only  the  signal 
for  a  renewal  of  the  sickness. 

"  Thank  goodness !  I  feel  better,"  says  one,  after  a  long  spell 
of  sickness  and  quiet. 

"So  do  I,"  says  another;  and,  just  as  the  "  Farallones"  are  in 
sight,  fortunately,  all  are  belter. 


SOUTH-EAST  VIEW  OF  THE  FARALLOXE  ISLANDS. 


Now  the  air  is  literally  filled  with  birds — birds  floating  above  us, 
and  birds  all  around  us,  like  bees  that  are  swarming,  we  thought 


186 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


the  whole  group  of  islands  must  have  heen  deserted,  and  that 
they  had  poured  down  in  myriads  on  purpose  to  intercept  our 
landing,  or  "bluff  us  off;"  but,  as  the  dark,  weather-beaten  fur- 
rows, and  the  wave-washed  chasms,  and  the  wind-swept  masses 
of  rock,  rose  more  defined  and  distinct  before  us  as  we  approached, 
we  concluded  that  they  must  have  abandoned  the  undertaking — 
for  upon  every  peak  sat  a  bird,  and  in  every  hollow  a  thousand ; 
but,  looking  around  us  again,  the  number,  apparently,  had  in- 
creased rather  than  diminished,  and  the  more  there  seemed  to  be 
upon  the  islands  the  greater  the  increase  round  about  us — so  that 
we  concluded  our  fears  to  be  entirely  unfounded. 

The  anchor  is  dropped  in  a  mass  of  floating  foam,  on  the  south- 
east and  sheltered  side  of  the  islands,  and  in  a  small  boat  we  reach 
the  shore,  thankful,  after  this  short  voyage,  to  feel  our  feet  stand- 
ing firmly  on  terra  firma. 

ARRIVAL  AT  THE  FARALLONE  ISLANDS. 

Looking  at  the  wonders  on  every  side,  we  were  astonished  that 
we  had  heard  so  little  about  them,  and  that  a  group  of  islands 
like  these  should  lie  within  a  few  hours'  sail  of  San  Francisco,  yet 
not  be  the  resort  of  nearly  every  seeker  of  pleasure,  and  every 
lover  of  the  wonderful. 

It  is  like  one  vast  menagerie.  Upon  the  rocks  adjacent  to  the 
sea  repose  in  easy  indifference,  thousands — yes,  thousands — of  sea 
lions  (one  species  of  the  seal),  that  weigh  from  two  to  five  thousand 
pounds  each.  As  these  made  the  loudest  noise,  and  to  us  were 
the  most  curious,  we  paid  them  the  first  visit.  When  we  were 
within  a  few  yards  of  them  the  majority  took  to  the  water,  while 
two  or  three  of  the  oldest  and  largest  remained  upon  the  rock, 
"  standing  guard"  over  the  young  calves,  that  were  either  at  play 
with  each  other,  or  asleep  at  their  side.  As  we  advanced,  these 
masses  of  "blubber"  moved  slowly  and  clumsily  toward  us,  with 
their  mouths  open,  and  showing  two  large  tusks  that  were  stand- 
ing out  from  their  lower  jaw,  by  which  they  gave  us  to  under- 
stand that  we  had  better  not  disturb  the  repose  of  the  juvenile 
"  lions,"  nor  approach  too  near,  or  we  might  receive  more  harm 


THE  FAKALLONE  ISLANDS.  18' 

than  we  expected  or  wished.  But  the  moment  we  threw  at  then 
a  stone,  they  would  scamper  off  and  leave  the  young  lions  to  thi 
mercy  of  their  enemies.  We  advanced  and  took  hold  of  one,  tc 
try  if  the  sight  of  their  young  being  taken  away  would  tempt  their 


to  come  to  the  rescue  ;  hut,  although  they  roared  and  kept  swim- 
ming close  to  the  rock,  they  evidently  thought  their  own  safety  of 
the  most  importance.  One  old  warrior,  whose  head  and  front 
bore  scars  of  many  a  hard-fought  battle — for  they  fight  fearfully 
among  themselves — could  not  be  driven  from  the  field,  and  neither 
rocks  nor  shouting  moved  him  in  the  least,  except  to  meet  the 
enemy,  as  he  doubtless  considered  us. 

All  of  these  animals  are  very  jealous  of  their  particular  rock, 
where,  in  the  sun,  they  take  their  siesta,  and  although  we  remained 
upon  some  of  these  spots  for  a  considerable  length  of  time,  while 
their  usual  tenants  were  swimming  in  the  sea,  and  perhaps  had 


188 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


become  somewhat  uneasy,  they  were  not  allowed  to  land  on  the 
territory  of  another. 


SEA  LIONS  AND  THEIR  YOUNG. 


They  keep  up  an  incessant  short,  moaning  cry,  that  sounds  like 
yoi  hoey,  yoi  hoey,  in  about  the  same  key  as  the  bray  of  a  mule. 

Most  of  these  young  seals  arc  of  a  dark  mouse  color,  but  the  old 
ones  are  of  a  light  and  brightish  brown  about  the  head,  and  grad- 
ually become  darker  toward  the  extremities,  which  are  about  the 
same  color  as  the  young  calves.  Most  of  the  male  and  young  fe- 
male seals  leave  these  islands  during  the  months  of  October  or 


THE  FARALLONE  ISLANDS. 


189 


JSovember — and  generally  all  go  at  once — returning  in  April  or 
May  the  following  spring,  while  the  older  females  remain  here 
nearly  alone  throughout  the  winter — a  rather  ungallant  proceed- 
ing on  the  part  of  the  males. 

THE  HAIR  SEAL. 

There  are  several  different  kinds  of  seal  that  pay  a  short  visit 
here  at  different  seasons  of  the  year,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  of 
which  is  the  hair  seal  of  the  Pacific  (Phoco  jubata). 


IU13  HAIR  SliAL  OF  THE  PACIFIC. 


This  seal,  with  which  the  coast  of  California  abounds,  is  by  no 
means  rare,  as  almost  all  the  coasts  in  high  southern  and  northern 
latitudes  abound  with  it.  To  the  Laplander,  it  is  meat,  drink, 
clothing,  etc.  To  the  Indians  of  Behring's  Straits  and  Kamschatka 
it  is  most  valuable ;  in  fact,  they  could  hardly  exist  without  it. 
Far  away  in  those  inhospitable  regions,  where  winter  reigns  three- 
fourths  of  the  year,  no  timber  can  be  obtained  sufficiently  large 
to  build  a  canoe;  but  with  a  few  seal-skins  and  a  little  whale- 
bone, the  Indian  will  construct  one  of  the  most  perfect  life-boats 
in  the  world.  In  this  he  will  fearlessly  venture  miles  from  land 
to  catch  fish  and  seals,  aye,  and  even  the  whale.  These  canoes 
are  difficult  to  manage  to  those  who  are  unacquainted  with  them. 
It  requires  no  small  degree  of  practice,  even  to  the  Kamschatkan, 
in  a  rough  sea,  to  keep  such  a  boat  alive.  lie  is  not  allowed  to 
marry  unless  he  have  the  ability  of  so  making  and  guiding 
them.    Indeed,  his  canoe  is  all  to  him — his  house,  his  clothes,  his 


190 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


furniture,  his  food — for  without  it  his  shores,  prolific  in  fish,  would 
be  useless. 

Its  countenance  bears  the  impress  of  great  sagacity ;  its  full, 
round,  beautiful  eye  indicates  even  an  intelligence  rarely  to  be 
found  in  any  other  inhabitant  of  the  waters.  This  was  remarked 
by  the  ancient  historian,  Pliny,  lie  gives  an  amusing  account  of 
one  that  was  easily  taught  to  perform  certain  tricks.  It  would 
salute  visitors  freely,  and  would  answer  to  its  name  when  called. 
F.  Cuvier  narrates  of  one  that  he  saw  that  was  made  to  stand 
erect  on  its  tail,  and  hold  a  staff  between  its  flippers  like  a  senti- 
nel on  duty.  It  would  tumble  heels  over  head  when  desired,  give 
a  flipper  to  be  shaken,  and  present  its  lips  for  its  keeper's  kiss. 

Captain  Russell,  the  assiduous  traveller  and  explorer  of  the  sea- 
board resources  of  California,  informed  us  that  it  is  most  amusing 
sometimes  to  see  their  contests  with  the  Coast  Indians.  These 
fellows  skulk  behind  the  rocks  adjacent  to  some  gently-sloping 
sand-banks,  and  when  the  shoal  has  become  dry  by  the  receding 
tide,  they  front  the  body  and  interpose  their  return  to  the  water, 
each  selecting  as  his  prey  the  biggest  and  most  powerful.  Catch- 
ing hold  of  the  tail-flipper,  the  animal  scuffles  along  the  sand, 
dragging  along  after  him  the  Indian,  who,  with  a  tight  grip,  fol- 
lows, until,  by  ploughing  a  deep  furrow  with  his  feet,  leaning 
back,  and  with  all  his  strength  resisting  the  powerful  progress  of 
the  animal,  until  both  come  to  a  dead  stand ;  the  animal's  side- 
flippers  are  then  tied  by  another  party,  and  the  poor  beast  thus 
easily  becomes  his  prey.  He  often,  he  says,  remonstrated  in  vain 
against  their  barbarous  cruelty  of  preparing  them  for  food,  or  for 
blubber.  A  huge  fire  is  made  in  a  large  flat  hole  in  the  ground, 
and  the  poor  beasts  are  hurled  in  and  roasted  alive.  "  We  have 
no  other  way,"  said  they,  "of  singeing  or  scorching  off  the  hair. 
If  they  were  put  in  dead,  we  should  have  to  get  in  the  fire  ourselves 
to  turn  them,  but  being  alive,  they  spare  us  the  trouble,  and  turn 
themselves  when  one  side  is  singed  sufficiently. " 

The  whole  tribe  possesses  remarkable  peculiarities  of  respiration 
and  circulation  of  blood.  The  interval  between  their  respirations 
is  very  long.    A  full-grown  animal  can  remain  under  water,  with- 


THE  FARALLONE  ISLANDS. 


191 


out  requiring  a  fresh  inspiration,  for  upwards  of  half  an  hour.  They 
can  open  and  close  at  pleasure,  for  these  purposes,  their  valvular  nos- 
trils in  a  surprising  degree,  eating  their  food  all  the  time  underwater 
with  perfect  enjoyment.  Their  breathing  is  remarkably  slow,  and 
very  irregular.  After  opening  the  nostrils  and  making  a  long  ex- 
piration, the  creature  inhales  air  by  a  long  inspiration,  and  just 
before  diving,  closes  its  nostrils  as  tight,  as  any  mechanical  valve. 
In  confinement,  they  have  been  observed  to  remain  asleep,  with 
the  head  under  water,  for  an  hour  at  each  time,  without  any  fresh 
inhalation  of  air.  Naturalists  account  for  this  power  by  the  ani- 
mal's possessing  a  great  venous  canal  in  its  liver,  which  assists  it 
in  diving,  so  that  their  respiration  is  somewhat  independent  of  the 
circulation  of  the  blood. 

One  of  these  animals  was  exhibited  in  Adams'  Museum,  San 
Francisco,  and  was  in  excellent  condition,  exceedingly  tame,  and 
very  submissive  to  its  "keeper.  It  seemed  to  enjoy  the  music, 
appearing  to  listen  to  it  with  some  pleasure.  This  is  not  to  be 
wondered  at,  as  the  hearing  of  this  class  of  animals  is  very  acute; 
and  well  attested  instances  are  by  no  means  rare,  of  many,  even 
in  a  wild  state,  being  attracted  by  the  sound  of  a  flute,  or  a  horn; 
rising  up  to  the  surface  to  enjoy  it  the  more,  and  sinking  imme- 
diately the  sounds  are  discontinued.  The  brain  in  the  seal  is  very 
large,  and  its  whiskers  are  connected  with  nerves  of  immense 
size,  serving  almost  every  purpose  of  sensation. 

The  Russians  formerly  visited  these  islands,  for  the  purpose  of 
obtaining  oil  and  skins,  and  several  places  can  be  yet  seen  where 
the  skins  were  stretched  and  dried. 

BIRDS  ON  THE  EARALLONES. 

The  birds  which  are  by  tar  the  most  numerous,  and,  on  account 
of  their  eggs,  the  most  important,  are  \heMurre,  or  Foolish  Guil- 
lemot, which  are  found  here  in  myriads,  surmounting  every  rocky 
peak,  and  occupying  every  small  and  partially  level  spot  upon  the 
islands.  Here  it  lays  its  egg,  upon  the  bare  rock,  and  never  leaves 
it,  unless  driven  off,  until  it  is  hatched  ;  the  male  taking  its  turn, 
at  incubation,  with  the  female — although  the  latter  is  most  assid- 


192 


SCENES  W  CALIFOKNIA. 


THE  MURRE,  OR  FOOLISH  GUILLEMOT. 

uous.  One  reason  why  this  may  be  the  case,  perhaps,  is  from  the 
fact  that  the  gull  is  watching  every  opportunity  to  steal  its  egg 
and  eat  it.  The  "  eggers1'  say  that  when  they  are  on  their  way  to 
any  part  of  the  island,  the  gulls  call  to  each  other,  and  hover 
around  until  the  murre  is  disturbed  by  them,  and  before  they  can 
pick  up  the  egg,  the  gull  sweeps  down  upon  it,  and  carries  it  off. 

When  the  young  are  old  enough  to  emigrate,  the  murres  take 
them  away  in  the  night,  lest  the  gulls  should  eat  them ;  and  as 
soon  as  the  young  reach  the  water,  they  swim  at  once.  Some 
idea  may  be  formed  of  the  number  of  these  birds,  by  the  Faral- 
lone  Egg  Company  having,  since  1850,  brought  to  the  San  Fran- 
cisco market  between  three  and  four  millions  of  eggs. 

On  this  coast  these  birds  are  numerous,  in  certain  localities,  from 
Panama  to  the  Russian  possessions.  On  the  Atlantic,  they  are 
found  from  Boston  to  the  coast  of  Labrador  ;  differing  but  very 
little  in  color,  shape,  or  size. 


the  farallojA:  islands. 


193 


THE  MUHRE'S  EGG — FULL  SIZE. 


It  is  a  clumsy  bird,  almost  helpless  on  land,  but  is  at  home  on 
the  sea,  and  is  an  excellent  swimmer  and  diver,  and  is  very  strong 
in  the  wings.  Their  eggs  are  unaccountably  large,  for  the  size  of 
the  bird,  and  "afford  excellent  food,  being  highly  nutritive  and 
palatable — whether  boiled,  roasted,  poached,  or  in  omelets."  No 
two  eggs  are  in  color  alike. 


THE  TUFTED  PUFFIN. 

9 


s(,  i;n;:s  est  camkounia. 


Tlie  bird,  of  most  varied  and  beautiful  plumage,  on  the  islands, 
is  the  Mormon  Clrrhatus,  or  Tufted  Puffin  •  and,  although,  they 
are  rather  numerous  on  this  coast,  they  are  very  scarce  elsewhere. 

In  addition  to  the  murre,  puffin,  and  gull,  already  mentioned, 
there  are  pigeons,  hawks,  shag,  coots,  etc.,  which  visit  here 
during  the  summer,  but,  with  the  exception  of  the  gull  and 
shag,  do  not  remain  through  the  winter. 

The  horned-hilled  guillemot  has  been  seen  and  caught  here, 
but  it  is  exceedingly  rare. 

Now,  with  the  reader's  permission,  we  will  leave  the  birds  and 
animals — at  least  if  we  can — and  take  a  walk  up  to  the  lighthouse, 
at  the  top  of  the  island,  three  hundred  and  fifty-seven  feet  above 
the  sea.  .V  good  pathway  has  been  made,  so  that  we  can  ascend 
with  ease.  If  you  find  that  we  have  not  left  the  birds,  nor  the 
birds  left  tis,  but  that,  at  every  step  we  take,  we  disturb  some,  and. 
pass  others,  and  that  thousands  are  flying  all  around  us,  never 
mind — when  we  reach  the  top  we  shall  forget  them,  at  least  for  a 
few  moments,  to  strain  our  eyes  in  looking  toward  the  horizon, 
and  seeking  to  catch  a  glimpse  of  some  distant  object.  Yonder, 
some  eight  miles  distant,  are  the  "  North  Farallones,"  a  very 
small  group  of  rocks,  and  not  exceeding  three  acres  in  extent — 
but,  like  this,  they  are  covered  with  birds. 

Now  let  us  enter  the  lighthouse,  and,  under  the  guidance  of 
Mr.  Wines,  the  superintendent,  we  shall  find  our  time  well  spent 
in  looking  at  the  best  lighthouse  on  the  Pacific  coast.  Every  thing 
is  bright  and  clean,  its  machinery  in  beautiful  order,  and  working 
as  regular  in  its  movements  as  a  chronometer. 

The  wind  blows  fresh  outside,  and  secretly  you  hope  the  light- 
house Avill  not  blow  over  before  you  get  out.  Here,  too,  you  can 
see  the  shape  of  the  island  upon  which  you  stand,  mapped  out 
upon  the  sea  below. 

Let  us  descend,  wend  our  way  to  the  "  West  End,"  and  pass 
through  the  living  masses  of  birds,  that  stand,  like  regiments  of 
white-breasted  miniature  soldiers,  on  every  hand — and  it  might 
be  well  to  take  the  precautionary  measure  of  closing  our  ears  to 
the  perpetual  roaring,  and  loud  moaning  of  the  sea  lions,  for  their 


THK  FARALLOWK  ISLANDS. 


195 


noise  is  almost  deafening.  A  caravan  of  wild  beasts  is  nothing, 
in  noise,  to  these. 

Let  ns  he  careful,  too,  in  every  step  that  we  take,  or  we  shall 
place  our  foot  upon  a  nest  of  young  gulls,  or  break  eggs  by  the 
dozen,  for  they  are  everywhere  around  us.  We  soon  reach  the 
side  of  the  "  Jordan,"  as  a  small  inlet  is  called,  and  across  which 
we  can  step  at  low  tide,  but  which  is  thirty  feet  wide  at  high 
water.  To  cross  it,  however,  a  rope  and  pulley  is  your  mode  of 
conveyance;  so  hold  tight  by  your  hands,  and  you'll  soon  get 
across.  Safely  over,  let  us  make  our  way  for  a  glimpse  of  the 
West  End  View,  looking  East. 


VIEW  FROII  WEST  END,  LOOKING  EAST. 


This  is  a  wild  and  beautiful  scone.  The  sharp-pointed  rocks 
are  standing  boldly  out  against  the  sky,  and  covered  with  birds 
and  sea  lions.  A  heavy  surf  is  rolling  in,  with  thundering 
hoarseness,  and  as  the  wild  waters  break  upon  the  shore,  they 
resemble  the  low,  booming  sound  of  distant  thunder ;  while  the 
white  spray  curls  over,  and  falls  with  a  hissing  splash  upon  the 
rocks,  and  then  returns  again  to  its  native  brine;  while,  swimming 


190 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


in  the  boiling  sea,  amid  the  foam  and  rocks,  just  peering  above 
the  water,  are  the  heads  of  scores  of  sea  lions.  Let  us  watch  them 
for  a  moment.  Here  comes  one  noble  looking  old  fellow,  who 
rises  from  the  water,  and  works  his  way,  slowly  and  clumsily, 
toward  the  young  which  lie  high  and  dry,  sleeping  in  the  sun,  or 
are  engaged  lazily  scratching  themselves  with  their  hind  claws ; 
and,  although  we  are  very  near  them,  they  lie  quite  unconcerned, 
and  innocent  of  danger.  Not  so  the  old  gentleman,  who  has  just 
taken  his  position  before  us,  as  sentry.  Experience  has  doubtless 
taught  him  that  such  looking  animals  as  we  are  behave  no  better 
than  we  should  do,  and  he  knows  it ! 

There  are  water-Avashed  caves,  and  deep  fissures  between  the 
rocks,  just  at  our  right ;  and  in  the  distance  is  a  large  arch,  not 
less  than  sixty  feet  in  height,  its  top  and  sides  completely  covered 
with  birds.  Through  the  arch,  you  can  see  a  ship,  which  is  just 
passing. 

Now  let  us  go  to  the  "Big  Rookery,"  lying  on  the  north-west 
side  of  the  island. 

This  locality  derives  its  name  from  the  island  here  forming  a 
hollow,  well  protected  from  the  winds ;  and  being  less  abrupt  than 
other  places,  is  on  that  account  a  favorite  resort  of  myriads  of  sea 
fowl,  who  make  this  their  place  of  abode,  and  where  vast  numbers 
of  young  are  raised.  If  you  walk  among  them,  thousands  im- 
mediately rise,  and  for  a  few  moments  darken  the  air,  as  though 
a  heavy  cloud  had  just  crossed  and  obscured  the  sunlight  upon 
your  path.  But  few  persons  who  have  not  seen  them  can  realize 
the  vast  numbers  that  make  this  their  home,  and  which  are  here, 
there,  and  everywhere,  flying,  sitting,  and  even  swimming,  upon 
the  boiling  and  white-topped  surge  among  the  seals. 

Here,  as  elsewhei'e,  there  are  thousands  of  seals,  some  are  suck- 
ling their  calves,  some  are  lazily  sleeping  in  the  sun,  others  are 
fishing,  some  are  quarrelling,  others  are  disputing  possession,  and 
yonder,  just  before  us,  two  large  and  fierce  old  fellows  ai*e  engaged 
in  direful  combat  with  each  other — now  the  long  tusks  of  the  one 
are  moving  upward  to  try  to  make  an  entrance  beneath  the  jaw 
of  the  other — now  they  are  below — now  there  is  a  scattering 


THE  FAKALLONE  ISLANDS. 


197 


among  the  swimming  group  that  have  merely  been  looking  on  to 
see  the  sport,  for  the  largest  has  just  come  up  among  them,  and 
they  are  afraid  of  him.  Now  appears  his  antagonist,  his  eyes 
rolling  with  maddened  frenzy,  they  again  meet — now  under,  now 
over — fierce  wages  the  war,  hard  goes  the  battle,  but  at  last  the 
owner  of  the  head,  already  covered  with  scales,  has  conquered, 
and  his  discomfitted  enemy  makes  his  way  to  the  nearest  rock,  and 
there  lies  panting  and  bleeding;  but  he  may  not  rest  here,  for  the 
owner  of  that  claim  is  at  home  and  has  possession,  and  without 
any  sympathy  for  his  suffering  and  unfortunate  brother,  he  orders 
him  off,  although  "only  a  squatter,"  and  he  again  takes  to  the  sea 
in  search  of  other  quarters. 

From  this  point  Ave  get  an  excellent  view  of  the  lighthouse,  and 
the  residence  of  the  keepers.  Everywhere  there  is  beauty,  wild- 
ness,  sublimity.  Let  us  not  linger  too  long  here,  although  weeks 
could  be  profitably  spent  in  looking  at  the  wonders  around  us,  but 
let  us  take  a  hasty  glance  at  the  View  from  the  North  Landing. 


VIEW  FROM  THE  NORTH  LANDING,  LOOKING  NORTH. 


198 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


Here  there  is  a  fine  estuary,  where,  with  a  little  improvement, 
small  schooners  can  enter  at  any  season  of  the  year,  and  where 
the  oil  and  other  supplies  are  landed  for  the  lighthouse.  Like  the 
other  views,  it  is  singular  and  wild — each  eminence  covered  with 
birds,  each  sea-washed  rock  occupied  by  seals,  and  the  air  almost 
darkened  by  the  sea  gulls  skimming  backward  and  forward,  like 
swallows,  and  by  the  rapid  and  apparently  difficult  flight  of  the 
murres. 

From  this  point  we  can  get  an  excellent  view  of  the  North 
FaraZlones,  that,  in  the  dim  and  shadowy  distance,  are  looming 
up  their  dull  peaks  just  above  the  restless  and  swelling  waves. 
From  the  sugar-loaf  shaped  peak,  and  the  singularly  high  arch, 
and  bold,  rugged  outlines  of  the  other  rocks,  this  view  has  become 
a  favorite  one  with  the  "  eggers." 

Upon  these  islands,  of  three  hundred  and  fifty  acres,  there  is  not 
a  single  tree  or  shrub  to  relieve  the  eye  by  contrast,  or  give 
change  to  the  barrenness  of  the  landscape.  A  few  weeds  and 
sprigs  of  wild  mustard  are  the  only  signs  of  vegetable  life  to  be 
seen  upon  them.  To  those  who  reside  here  it  must  be  monotonous 
and  dull ;  hut  to  those  who  visit  it,  there  is  a  variety  of  wild  won- 
ders that  amply  repays  them  for  their  trouble. 

me  Ii  \lian  ?sheri  :en  h<  ving  .  upplied  our  cook  with  excellent 
fish,  et  us  lastei  aboa  d  and  make  sail  for  home. 

Be  "ore  se  nng  1  good  bye"  to  our  kind  entertainers,  and  again 
leaving  them  to  tne  solitary  loneliness  of  a  "  lite  near  the  sea,"  we 
will  congratulate  them  upon  their  useful  employment,  and  ask 
them  to  rememher  the  comforting  joy  they  must  give  to  the  tem- 
pest-tossed mariner,  who  sees,  in  the  "  light  afar,"  the  welcome 
sentinel,  ever  standing  near  the  gate  of  entrance  to  the  long 
wished  and  hoped-for  port,  where,  for  a  time,  in  enjoyment  and 
rest,  he  can  recover  from  the  hardships  and  forget  the  perils  of 
the  sea. 

On  our  left,  and  but  a  few  yards  from  shore,  is  an  isle  called 
Seal  Rock,  where  the  sea  lions  have  possession,  and  are 
waving  their  lubberly  bodies  to  and  fro  upon  its  very  summit,  and 
from  whence  the  echoes  of  their  low  howling  moans  are  heard 


THE  FAEALLONE  ISLANDS. 


199 


across  the  sea,  long  after  distance  lias  hidden  them  from  our 
sight. 

After  a  pleasant  run  of  five  hours,  without  any  sea-sickness,  we 
are  again  walking  the  streets  of  San  Francisco,  abundantly  satis- 
fied that  our  trip  was  exceedingly  pleasant  and  instructive. 


SOUTH  VIEW  OF  FORT  POINT  AND  THE  GOLDEN  GATE. 
From,  a  Photograph  hy  Hamilton  &  Co. 


CIIAPTEE  IX. 
SIGHTS  AROUND  SAN  FRANCISCO. 

"  'Tis  a  dull  thing  to  travel  like  a  mill-horse.'' 

— Queen  of  Corinth. 

THE  THREE  ROADS  TO  THE  MISSION  DOLORES. 

Out  of  a  population  exceeding  seventy  thousand  persons— the 
number  estimated  to  be  in  San  Francisco  at  the  present  time— it 
is  to  be  expected  that  for  health,  change,  business,  or  recreation,  a 


SIGHTS  ABOUND  SAJNT  FRANCISCO. 


201 


large  proportion,  at  convenient  seasons,  will  make  a  flying  visit 
to  localities  of  interest  that  can  he  easily  and  cheaply  reached, 
beyond  the  suburbs  of  the  city.  Of  these,  one  of  the  most  inter- 
esting and  pleasant,  is  that  from  San  Francisco  by  the  Mission 
Dolores,  to  the  Ocean  House  and  Seal  Rock,  returning  by  Fort 
Point  and  the  Presidio.  Upon  this  interesting  jaunt,  we  hope  to 
have  the  pleasure  of  the  reader's  company;  for  it  is  almost  always 
more  agreeable  to  visit  such  scenes  in  good  companionship,  than 
to  go  alone. 

As  these  places  are  visited  by  all  classes  of  persons,  whose 
means  and  tastes  widely  differ,  it  is  not  for  us  to  say  whether  it 
is  better  to  go  on  horseback,  or  in  a  buggy  ;  by  a  public  omnibus, 
or  a  private  carriage ;  or  on  that  very  primitive,  somewhat  inde- 
pendent, but  not  always  the  most  popular  conveyance,  technically 
termed  "going  a-foot."  We  must  confess,  however,  that  inasmuch 
as  our  physical  and  mental  organization  are  both  capable  of 
enduring  a  large  amount  of  comfort,  as  well  as  pleasure,  our  pre- 
dilections decidedly  incline  to  the  former.  Yet,  to  those  who,  to 
be  suited,  would  choose  even  the  latter,  we  can  most  conscien- 
tiously affirm  that  "  we  have  no  objection !"  This  point,  then, 
being  duly  conceded,  with  the  reader's  consent,  we  will  set  out  at 
once  on  our  jaunt,  each  one  by  the  conveyance  that  pleases  him 
best. 

Let  us  thread  our  way  among  the  numerous  vehicles  and  foot- 
passengers  that  crowd  the  various  thoroughfares  of  the  city,  to 
Third  street,  at  which  point  we  can  take  one  of  three  routes  to 
the  Mission  Dolores;  namely — by  the  Old  Mission  road,  Folsom 
street,  or  Brannan  street.  The  Old  Mission  road,  as  its  name 
would  indicate,  was  the  first  made  road  to  that  point ;  although 
in  1849  and  1850,  we  had  to  thread  our  way  among  the  low  sand 
hills,  and  across  little  valleys,  by  a  very  circuitous  and  laborious 
route.  In  1851,  this  road  was  surveyed,  graded,  and  planked ; 
but,  as  the  planks  wore  rapidly  away,  it  was  found  very  expensive 
to  keep  it  in  repair.  It  has  recently  been  macadamized  nearly 
its  entire  length,  and  now  is  almost  as  good  as  the  far-famed 
Shell  road,  between  New  Orleans  and  Lake  Pontchartrain. 
9* 


202 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


It  is  difficult  to  give  the  actual  amount  of  travel  on  either  of 
these  roads,  as  much  is  regulated  by  the  state  of  the  weather;  yet 
the  following  will  give  an  approximate  estimate  : — 

On  the  Old  Mission  road,  an  omnibus  passes  and  repasses  four- 
teen times  daily  with  from  one  to  thirty  passengers,  and  will 
average  twelve  each  way ;  leaving  the  Plaza  on  the  even  hour, 
from  seven  o'clock  a.  m.,  to  eight  o'clock  p.  m.  The  San  Jose 
stage,  which  leaves  the  Plaza  at  eight  o'clock  a.  m.,  passes  and 
repasses  daily ;  the  Overland  Mail  stage,  via  Los  Angeles,  starts 
from  the  Plaza  every  Monday  and  Friday,  at  noon,  returning  on 
the  same  day ;  Dorlin's  express  runs  twice  a  day  to  the  Mission 
and  back ;  in  addition  to  these,  there  are  about  five  water  carts, 
ten  milk,  twelve  meat,  eighteen  bread,  forty  vegetable,  and  from 
twenty  to  thirty  express,  or  parcel  wagons,  daily.  On  one  day,  we 
counted  thirty-four  horsemen,  sixty-six  double  horse,  and  one  hun- 
dred and  seventy-seven  single  horse  vehicles,  such  as  carriages, 
buggies,  sulkies,  etc.,  in  addition  to  those  above  mentioned. 

On  the  Folsom  street  plank  road,  an  omnibus  passes  and 
repasses  twelve  times  daily,  with  an  average  of  twelve  pas- 
sengers each  way,  leaving  the  Plaza  on  the  half  hour.  There  are 
also  forty  milk,  twen  y  ve.  etabl  \  twenty  lcmbei  liquor,  bread, 
and  neat  ^agoi.?,  of  .ingle  and  trouble  horsj;  an.;  abo.it  eighty 
bugg  es,  s:  lgle  nd  a  mble  besi  les  t<  ot  ps  3seng<  rs.  i  )n  Si  n- 
lays,  no  le  s  tha  i  fori  ?  oim  ibuss-s,  an  1  froi.:  one  hund  ed  a.  d 
ifty  tj  two  hunc-'ed  baggier,  pass  and  /epasi,  besides  fr^m  one 
thousand  to  three  thousand  people,  a  large  proportion  of  whom  are 
bound  for  Puss'  Gardens. 

With  this  preliminary  explanation,  and  the  reader's  consent,  as 
we  cannot  very  conveniently  journey  together  on  both  roads,  we 
will  take  that  which,  of  the  two,  is  rather  the  most  pleasant — 
namely,  the  Folsom  street.  The  sides  of  this  road,  like  those  of 
the  other,  are  adorned  with  private  residences,  and  well  cultivated 
gardens  and  nurseries  ;  among  the  latter,  the  first  which  attracts 
the  traveller's  attention,  is  the  "  Golden  Gate  Nursery ;"  then  the 
"  United  States  ;"  then  "  Sonntag's  ;"  and  at  the  corner  of  Folsom 
and  Centre,  the  "Commercial  Nursery."    But,  after  passing  the 


SIGHTS  AROUND  SAN  FRANCISCO. 


203 


former  of  these,  and  before  arriving  at  the  latter,  a  large  building 
to  the  south  attracts  our  attention;  that  is  the  French  Hospital. 
Next  is  the  celebrated  "  Rubs'  Gardens,"  a  popular  place  of  resort 
for  Germans,  especially  on  Sundays.  * 

GOING  TO  KUSS'  GARDENS. 

Here  let  us  digress  for  a  moment,  to  relate  a  somewhat  amusing 
conversation  that  took  place  on  California  street,  between  the  ser- 
vant of  a  friend  and  a  German  woman,  whose  husband  makes  a 
comfortable  living  by  mending  boots  and  shoes  in  a  little  wooden 
house  on  the  sidewalk. 

German  woman  to  Irish  servant : 

"  Bridget,  why  don't  you  get  married,  and  live  in  a  comfortable 
house  of  your  own  ?" 

"  Faith,  and  I  don't  see  that  ye's  very  comforthable  yesself,  for 
ye's  slaving  yesself  from  Monthay  marning  until  Satmirday  nite, 
washing  clothes  for  other  peoples,  while  yer  husban'  is  mendin' 
boots  and  shoes,  in  that  box  on  the  sidewalk." 

"  O,  yes,  but  what  of  that ;  you  know  we  must  all  work  for  a 
living;  and,  besides,  I  and  my  husband  are  very  happy  the  whole 
of  the  week,  for  if  I  wash  clothes,  and  he  mends  old  boots  and 
shoes,  from  Monday  morning  until  Saturday  night,  we  always  go 
to  Hubs'  Gardins  on  Sundays  /" 

Now,  if  this  does  not  preach  a  sermon  on  contentment,  it  is  of 
no  use  our  trying.  So  we  may  as  well  pass  on  to  say,  that  the 
next  object  that  attracts  our  attention,  is  the  black  volumes  of 
smoke  that  roll  from  the  chimney -top  of  the 

SAN  FRANCISCO  SUGAR  REFINERY. 

This  establishment  belongs  to  an  incorporated  company,  half  of 
the  stock  in  which  is  owned  in  San  Francisco,  and  half  in  the  East. 
The  works  are  located  half  way  between  San  Francisco  and  the 
Mission,  on  a  piece  of  ground  three  acres  in  extent. 

The  buildings  are  of  brick,  built  in  a  massive  style,  seventy-six 
feet  front,  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  deep,  part  four  stories  and 
basement,  and  part  two  stories  and  basement,  with  an  engine 


204 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


house  twenty  by  thirty  feet ;  a  bone-black  factory,  twenty-two  by 
forty  feet,  and  two  stories  high  ;  a  steam  cooperage,  twenty  by 
one  hundred  feet,  and  boarding  house  for  hands  detached.  All 
the  smoke  fronntlie  various  furnaces  is  conducted  by  underground 
flues,  large  enough  to  admit  a  man  through  them,  to  a  detached 
shaft  or  chimney,  ninety  feet  high,  fourteen  feet  square  at  the 
base,  and  five  feet  at  the  top,  also  of  brick. 

A  line  of  clipper  barks,  of  from  four  hundred  and  fifty  to  eight 
hundred  tons,  are  employed  by  the  company,  to  run  between 
Batavia  and  Manilla  and  this  port,  for  the  purpose  of  importing 
raw  sugars,  of  the  brown  grades,  used  by  refiners,  which  is  made 
into  loaf,  crushed,  coffee-crushed,  granulated,  and  powdered 
sugars,  such  as  are  currently  used  in  the  market. 

The  consumption  of  articles  by  this  establishment,  when  work- 
ing up  to  its  capacity,  is  as  follows,  per  annum  :  four  thousand 
tons  raw  sugar,  sixteen  hundred  tons  of  coal,  four  hundred  tons 
of  bones,  for  making  ivory  or  bone-black  for  filtering,  one  million 
one  hundred  thousand  staves,  one  million  hoops,  two  hundred 
thousand  heads  for  packages  (barrels  and  kegs).  The  works  em- 
ploy sixty  men  in-doors,  and  directly  and  indirectly,  in  the  getting 
of  staves,  hoops,  heads,  making  barrels,  freighting,  teaming,  etc., 
about  seventy-five  to  eighty  more — making  about  a  hundred  and 
fifty  hands  for  whom  employment  is  found  in  the  State,  in  the  re 
fining  and  proper  preparation  of  an  article  of  home  consumption. 

The  processes  used  in  this  establishment  are  of  the  newest  and 
most  improved  kind.  We  cannot  pretend  to  give  a  precise  account 
of  this  interesting  manufacture,  but,  in  general  terms,  the  process 
is  as  follows : 

The  raw  sugar  is  emptied  into  three  large  iron  vats,  of  the  cap- 
acity of  about  three  thousand  gallons,  in  which  it  is  boiled  by 
steam.  Various  clarifying  ingredients  are  added,  and  the  boiling 
mass  is  brought  to  a  proper  point  of  liquidity,  denoted  by  certain 
delicate  instruments,  called  saccharometers.  It  is  then  run  off 
through  various  strainers,  and  finally  forced  by  a  steam  pump 
through  fabrics  of  thick  canvas,  set  in  massive  iron  boxes.  From 
these  it  issues  bright  and  clear. 


SIGHTS  AROUND  SAN  FRANCISCO. 


205 


It  is  then  run  through  four  huge  iron  vats,  each  of  which  holds 
fifty  to  sixty  barrels  of  ivory-black,  in  a  granulated  state,  from 
which,  after  twenty-four  hours,  it  issues,  being  of  a  pale  amber 
color,  perfectly  pellucid. 

The  liquid  sugar  thus  clarified  is  conducted  through  pipes  to  an 
instrument  called  the  vacuum  pan,  out  of  which  all  the  air  is 
pumped,  and  in  this  it  is  boiled,  in  vacuo,  until  it  commences  to 
crystallize. 

Subsequently,  it  is  poured  into  iron  cones  inverted,  each  holding 
about  five  gallons,  of  which  the  establishment  is  supplied  with 
several  thousands.  In  these,  the  process  of  crystallization  is 
suffered  to  progress  to  a  certain  point,  after  which,  the  cones  (or 
moulds)  and  their  contents  are  hoisted  into  draining-rooms,  where, 
exposed  to  a  high  temperature,  they  drain  off  the  syrup  from  the 
crystallized  sugar.  In  this  room  the  crystallized  sugar  is  further 
bleached,  until  it  assumes  the  requisite  whiteness  of  the  kind  of 
refined  sugar  intended.  After  which,  the  sugar,  now  being  firmly 
set,  white,  and  partially  hard,  is  removed  to  the  oven,  a  structure 
capable  of  containing  one  hundred  and  seventy  tons  of  sugar- 
loaves,  and  there  dried  or  baked. 

It  is  then  brought  down  into  the  mill-room,  where  there  are 
four  mills  for  preparing  various  kinds  of  sugar. 

There  are  also  centrifugal  machines  in  process  of  erection,  for 
preparing  sugars  of  lower  grade  than  loaf  or  crushed.  These  mills 
revolve  with  an  enormous  speed,  the  outer  circumference  travel- 
ling at  the  rate  of  twelve  thousand  feet  per  minute.  The  syrups 
are  parted  from  the  crystals  by  the  rapid  centrifugal  motion,  and 
forced  through  the  fine  Avire  gauze  which  forms  the  outer  circum- 
ference of  the  machine.  Each  of  these  machines  will  prepare  two 
tons  of  sugar  daily. 

Besides  the  internal  works,  the  manufactories  attached  for 
making  barrels  and  ivory-black  are  interesting,  but  not  of  a  na- 
ture to  be  explained  easily  by  a  non-professional  writer. 

On  the  premises  are  two  fine  artesian  wells,  giving  the  purest 
water,  of  which  seventy  to  eighty  thousand  gallons  per  day  are 
used  in  the  establishment. 


206 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


The  cost  of  the  works  exceeded  one  hundred  thousand  dollars. 

But  we  must  now  pass  on,  and  as  quickly  as  possible,  for  two 
reasons :  reason  first,  the  hog-ranches  by  the  road-side  are  not 
as  fragrant  as  the  roses  in  Sonntag's  nursery  ;  reason  second  will 
appear  when  we  arrive  at  Centre  street.  Turn  to  the  right,  crossing 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  TIIE  MISSION  DOLORES,  FROM  TITE  POTRERO. 
From  a  Photograph  by  Hamilton  <£  Co. 


the  bridge  over  Mission  Creek,  and,  on  the  new  San  Bruno  turn- 
pike, obtain  a  general  view  of  the  Mission. 

The  beautiful  green  hills  and  pretty  private  residences  that 
here  dot  the  landscape,  with  the  fine  nurseries  in  the  foreground, 
will  explain  why  the  Mission  Fathers  chose  this  fertile  and  well- 
watered  valley  in  preference  to  the  bleak  and  comparatively  barren 
lagoon,  for  their  semi-religious  and  semi-philanthropic  object,  and 
will  offer  some  apology  for  its  possession  by  another  race  after 
the  former  had  passed  away. 

In  the  hollow,  some  three  hundred  yards  below  the  Nightingale 


SIGHTS  ABOUND  SAN  FRANCISCO. 


207 


Hotel,  is  the  Willows,  a  shady  retreat  for  pleasure  seekers  and 
parties,  from  which  spot  let  us  now  go  at  once  to  the  Mission. 

THE  MISSION  DOLORES. 

isow  we  have  arrived  at  the  quaint,  old-fashioned,  tile-covered 
adobe  church,  and  buildings  attached,  part  of  which  is  still  in 
use  by  the  Mission,  and  a  part  is  converted  into  saloons  and  a 
store.  This  edifice  was  erected  in  1775-6,  and  was  completed 
and  dedicated,  August  1st,  1776,  and  was  formerly  called  San 
Francisco,  in  honor  of  the  patron  saint,  Saint  Francis,  the  name 
given  to  the  bay  by  its  discoverer,  Junipero  Serro,  in  October, 
1769. 


THE  OLD  MISSION  CnURCH  AND  OUTBUILDINGS. 
From  a  Photograph  by  Hamilton  &  Co. 

While  the  church  buildings  were  in  course  of  erection,  the 
Fathers  had  great  difficulty  in  keeping  the  Indians,  who  performed 
most  of  the  labor,  at  work.  The  earthy  clay,  of  which  the 
adobes  were  made,  had  to  be  prepared  by  them,  and  after  water 
had  been  thrown  upon  it,  they  would  jump  in  and  trample  it 
with  their  feet,  but  soon  growing  tired,  would  keep  working  only 
so  long  as  the  Fathers  kept  singing. 

The  visitor  will  notice  a  number  of  old  adobe  buildings  scattered 
here  and  there,  in  different  directions ;  these  were  erected  for  the  use 


208 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


of  the  Indians,  one  part  being  used  for  boys,  and  the  other  for  girls, 
and  in  which  they  resided  until  they  were  about  seventeen  years 
of  age,  when  they  were  allowed  to  marry,  after  which  other  apart- 
ments were  assigned  them,  more  in  accordance  with  their  condition. 

As  late  as  1849  there  were  two  large  boilers  in  the  buildings 
back  of  the  church ;  and  as  meat  was  almost  the  only  article  of 
food,  an  ox  was  killed  and  boiled,  wholesale,  at  which  time  the 
Indians  would  gather  around  and  eat  until  they  were  satisfied. 
Of  course,  most  of  our  readers  are  aware  that  Catholics  are  not 
allowed  to  eat  meat  on  Friday,  but,  owing  to  this  being  the  only 
article  of  diet  to  the  Indians  and  native  Californians  around  the 
Mission,  they  were  not  required  to  abstain  from  it,  even  on  that  day. 

According  to  Mr.  Forbes,  a  very  careful  and  accurate  writer, 
who  published  a  work  in  1835,  entitled  the  "  History  of  Lower 
and  Upper  California,"  the  number  of  black  cattle  belonging  to 
this  Mission  in  1831,  was  five  thousand  six  hundred  and  ten; 
horses,  four  hundred  and  seventy  ;  mules,  forty  ;  while  only  two 
hundred  and  thirty-three  fanegas  (a  fanega  is  about  two  and  a  half 
bushels)  of  wheat,  seventy  of  Indian  corn,  and  forty  of  small 
beans,  were  raised  altogether.  At  that  time,  however,  the  Mis- 
sions had  lost  much  of  their  former  glory  ;  for,  in  182o,  only  six 
years  before,  that  of  Dolores,  alone,  is  said  to  have  had  seventy- 
six  thousand  head  of  cattle,  nine  hundred  and  fifty  tame  horses, 
two  thousand  breeding  mares,  eighty -four  stud  of  choice  breed, 
eight  hundred  and  twenty  mules,  seventy-nine  thousand  sheep, 
two  thousand  hogs,  and  four  hundred  and  fifty-six  yoke  of  work- 
ing oxen  ;  and  raised  eighteen  thousand  bushels  of  wheat  and 
barley.  Besides,  in  1802,  according  to  Baron  Humboldt,  there 
were  of  males,  in  this  Mission,  four  hundred  and  thirty-three ;  of 
females,  three  hundred  and  eighty-one ;  total,  eight  hundred  and 
fourteen.  And  yet,  according  to  Mr.  Forbes,  in  1831,  there  were 
but  one  hundred  and  twenty-four  males,  and  eighty-five  females  ; 
and  now,  there  are — none.  Truly,  "  the  glory  has  departed." 
At  that  time,  the  Indians  and  native  Californians,  for  many 
.  miles  around,  would  congregate  at  the  Mission  Dolores,  about 
three  times  a  year,  bringing  with  them  cattle  enough  to  kill  while 


SIGHTS  ABOUND  SAN  FRANCISCO. 


209 


they  remained,  which  was  generally  about  a  week,  and  have  a 
good  holiday  time  with  each  other. 

Before  the  discovery  of  gold,  it  was  the  custom  here  to  keep  a 
tabular  record  of  all  the  men,  women,  and  children ;  members  of 
the  church ;  marriages,  births,  and  deaths ;  the  number  of  live 
stock ;  and  amounts  of  produce,  in  all  their  business  details ;  but, 
since  then,  every  thing  has  changed  for  the  worse.  Even  the 
lands  devoted  to,  and  set  apart  for,  the  use  of  the  Mission,  have, 
nearly  all,  been  squatted  upon,  so  that  now  but  a  few  hundred 
varas  remain  intact ;  and,  as  to  where  the  stock  of  all  kinds  have 
gone,  "  deponent  saith  not." 

One  feels  quite  a  pleasurable  curiosity  in  examining  the  old 
Spanish  manuscript  books  still  extant  at  this  Mission,  and  looking 
upon  their  sheepskin  covered  lids  and  buckskin  clasps.  Besides 
these,  there  are  about  six  hundred  printed  volumes,  in  Spanish, 
on  religious  subjects  ;  but,  being  in  a  foreign  language,  they  are 
seldom  or  never  read. 

At  the  present  time,  the  only  uses  to  which  this  Mission  is  de- 
voted is  to  give  public  instruction  in  the  Catholic  religion,  the 
education  of  some  seventeen  pupils,  the  burial  of  the  dead,  and 
an  occasional  marriage.  Of  the  last  named,  about  eighteen  have 
taken  place  within  the  past  four  years. 

The  great  point  of  attraction  here  to  visitors  from  the  city,  is 
its  quiet  green  graveyard,  which,  but  for  its  being  so  negligently 
tended,  and  slovenly  kept,  would  be  one  of  the  prettiest  places 
near  the  city  of  San  Francisco. 

In  this  last  peaceful  home,  from  June  1st,  1858,  to  May  20th,  1859, 
the  following  will  show  how  many  have  been  laid  :  June  (1858), 
fifty-two;  July,  sixty-seven;  August,  fifty-five;  September,  fifty- 
five  ;  October,  sixty -five ;  November,  fifty-seven ;  December,  fifty- 
six;  January  (1859),  thirty-five;  February,  forty -five;  Marchjhirty- 
eight ;  April,  thirty-three ;  May,  up  to  the  20th,  twenty-eight. 

It  seems  as  though  we  could  never  weary  in  looking  upon  these 
interesting  scenes ;  but  as  we  have  further  to  go,  and,  we  trust, 
many  more  to  look  upon,  let  us  again  set  out  on  our  jaunt  and 
visit  this  spot  again  at  our  leisure. 


210 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


Between  the  Mission  Dolores  and  the  Ocean  House  there  are  no 
objects  of  striking  interest,  except,  perhaps,  the  San  Francisco 
Industrial  School,  recently  erected  for  the  benefit  of  depraved 
juveniles,  situated  near  the  top  of  the  ridge  we  are  gently  ascend- 
ing, about  six  miles  from  the  city  and  three  from  the  ocean. 

THE  INDUSTRIAL  SCHOOL  OF  SAN  FRANCISCO. 


SAN  FRANCISCO  INDUSTRIAL  SCHOOL. 


"  This  institution,  designed  for  the  reformation  and  care  of  idle 
and  dissolute  children,  as  also  those  convicted  of  crime,  was  estab- 
lished by  an  act  of  the  Legislature,  passed  April  loth,  1858.  It 
provided  that  the  necessary  funds  for  the  erection  of  the  buildings 
should  be  raised  by  an  enrolment  of  life  and  annual  members,  and 
when  a  fund  of  ten  thousand  dollars  had  been  so  realized,  then  the 
Board  of  Supervisors  were  directed  to  appropriate  the  sum  of 
twenty  thousand  dollars  from  the  city  treasury  toward  that  object. 
The  act  also  provided  that,  upon  the  organization  of  the  school,  a 
further  appropriation  of  one  thousand  dollars  per  month  should  be 
made  by  the  Board  of  Supervisors  for  the  care  and  maintenance 
of  the  children  and  the  salaries  of  its  officers. 

"  So  deeply  impressed  were  our  citizens  with  the  urgent  neces- 
sity of  such  an  institution,  that  sixty  life-members  and  four 
hundred  and  thirty-three  annual  and  contributing  members  en- 


SIGHTS  AROUND  SAN  FRANCISCO.  211 

rolled  themselves  at  once;  and  the  sum  of  ten  thousand  eight 
hundred  and  fifty  dollars  having  been  raised  in  that  way,  the 
appropriation  by  the  city  was  made,  thus  placing  thirty  thousand 
eight  hundred  and  fifty  dollars  at  the  disposal  of  the  Board. 

"The  act  fixed  the  number  of  managers  at  seventeen;  fourteen  of 
them  to  be  elected  by  the  members  of  the  department,  and  the 
other  three  to  be  appointed  by  the  Board  of  Supervisors  from  their 
own  body.  The  officers  of  the  department  and  the  chief  officers 
of  the  school  are  made  amenable  to  the  general  laws  of  the  State 
relating  to  misdemeanor  in  office  ;  and  the  secretary,  treasurer,  and 
superintendent,  and  his  deputy,  are  required  to  enter  into  bonds  for 
the  faithful  discharge  of  their  duty.  By  these  wise  provisions,  the 
institution  is  invested  with  many  of  the  useful  features  of  private 
charity,  while,  as  a  branch  of  the  municipal  government,  its  affairs 
and  the  conduct  of  its  officers  are  subjected  to  public  scrutiny. 

"  Upon  the  election  of  the  Board,  steps  were  at  once  taken  to 
select  a  proper  site  for  the  institution.  In  this  some  difficulty  was 
experienced,  but  finally  the  Board  determined  to  adopt  the  lot 
purchased  some  years  ago  by  the  city  for  a  House  of  Refuge.  The 
tract  contains  one  hundred  acres,  most  of  it  good,  arable  land,  and 
lies  about  five  and  a  half  miles  to  the  south  of  the  city,  on  the  San 
Jose  road.  The  produce  of  this  land  will  supply  the  house,  and, 
perhaps,  in  time,  yield  some  income.  The  building  is  placed  near 
the  middle  of  the  tract,  on  a  gentle  slope  toward  the  east,  and 
commands  a  charming  view  of  the  surrounding  country.  On 
three  sides  the  elevated  hills,  at  a  distance  of  three  or  four  miles, 
surround  it  in  a  graceful  curve,  while,  directly  in  front,  lie  the 
broad  expanse  of  the  bay,  and  the  well-defined  Coast  Range,  with 
its  towering  peak  of  Monte  Diablo. 

"In  adopting  a  plan,  the  Board  had  before  them  descriptions 
of  numerous  buildings  intended  for  the  same  purpose  in  other 
cities,  and  they  selected  that  one  which  experience  had  shown  to 
be  fittest  in  every  respect.  The  designs  were  drawn  under  instruc- 
tions from  the  Board,  and  the  contract  was  awarded  for  the  erection 
of  a  centre  building  and  one  wing,  at  the  sum  of  twenty-three  thou- 
sand dollars.    In  consequence  of  the  continued  rains  of  the  past 


212 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


winter,  the  buildings  were  not  finished  as  soon  as  the  Board  had 
hoped  for,  but  the  slower  progress  has  resulted  in  the  better  work. 
The  building  is  Roman  in  architecture,  and  constructed  of  stone  in 
the  basement,  and  brick  in  the  other  stories.  The  centre  building 
is  forty -five  feet  by  fifty-seven  feet,  and  consists  of  two  stories  and  a 
basement.  The  height,  from  the  ground  line  to  the  top  of  the  cornice, 
is  thirty-eight  feet,  and  to  the  top  of  the  bell-tower,  fifty-six  feet. 
The  basement  story  is  ten  feet  high,  and  contains  the  officers' 
dining-room,  the  kitchen,  four  closets,  two  store-rooms,  two  servants' 
rooms,  and  halls  eight  and  ten  feet  wide,  extending  through  the 
building.  The  principal  story  is  fourteen  feet  in  height,  and  con- 
tains two  rooms  sixteen  feet  by  twenty  feet ;  two,  fifteen  feet  by 
twenty  feet ;  two,  seven  feet  by  fifteen  feet ;  a  front  hall  eight 
feet  wide,  and  a  back  hall  ten  feet  wide,  in  which  latter  is  placed 
the  stairs.  A  transverse  hall,  five  feet  four  inches  wide,  leads  to 
the  wings.    This  story  is  devoted  to  the  officers  of  the  institution. 

"  The  second  story  is  twelve  feet  in  height,  and  is  intended  for 
the  apartments  of  the  superintendent  and  other  resident  officers, 
and  contains  a  bath-room  and  the  necessary  closets.  The  plan 
contemplates  two  wings  of  similar  design  and  finish.  The  southern, 
however,  is  the  only  one  yet  built.  The  height  of  the  wings  is 
twenty-nine  feet  from  the  ground  line  to  the  top  of  the  cornice. 
The  extreme  southern  part  of  the  wings  is  twenty-three  feet  by 
fifty -nine  feet;  and  two  stories  high.  The  first  story,  fourteen  feet 
high,  contains  the  dining-room  of  the  pupils,  twenty-one  feet  by 
thirty-three  feet ;  pantry,  washing-room,  and  water-closets  for  the 
pupils.  The  second  story  of  this  part  of  the  wing  is  twelve  feet 
high,  and  contains  the  hospital  wards,  bath-rooms,  etc.  That  part 
of  the  wing  connecting  the  southern  part,  just  described,  with  the 
main  building,  is  one  story  high,  with  six  windows  on  each  side, 
extendins:  the  full  height  of  the  winsr.  In  the  interior  of  this 
stands  the  dormitory  portion,  built  of  brick,  eighteen  feet  by  fifty- 
one  feet  six  inches,  three  stories  high,  and  each  story  containing 
sixteen  dormitories,  which  are  five  feet  six  inches  by  seven  feet 
six  inches.  The  dormitories  face  outward  toward  the  walls  of  the 
building.    A  corridor  fourteen  feet  wide,  and  open  to  the  roof, 


SIGHTS  ABOUND  SAN  FRANCISCO. 


213 


surrounds  the  dormitories,  which,  on  the  second  and  third  floors, 
open  upon  galleries  protected  by  iron  railings.  The  dormitories 
are  ventilated  through  the  doors  and  the  roof,  and  eacli  gallery  is 
connected  with  a  wash-room  and  water-closets.  The  galleries  are 
approached  by  the  staircases  at  each  end. 

"The  institution  was  inaugurated  on  the  17th  of  May,  1858,  with 
appropriate  religious  services,  by  the  Rev.  Doctor  Anderson,  and 
an  address  by  Colonel  J.  B.  Crockett.'' 

The  above  history  and  description  of  the  Industrial  School,  for 
the  city  and  county  of  San  Francisco,  from  the  report  of  the  flrst 
Board  of  Managers,  will  show  how  this  institution  came  to  have 
"  a  local  habitation  and  a  name.1' 

A  few  days  ago,  in  order  to  inspect  the  building  to  ascertain  the 
working  of  the  system  employed,  and  the  present  condition  of  an 
institution  established  from  motives  so  purely  philanthropical,  and 
so  glowingly  inaugurated,  we  paid  it  a  visit,  and  regret  to  say 
that  we  were  somewhat  disappointed.  The  situation  is  excellent ; 
the  building,  externally,  is  prepossessing ;  and  some  of  its  internal 
arrangements  are  admirably  adapted  to  the  noble  aim  and  end  of 
its  generous  founders;  but  after  passing  into  the  sleeping  quarters 
of  the  boys,  and  looking  at  the  iron-barred  windows,  and  the  little 
brick  cells  with  small  iron  gratings  in  the  doors,  the  first  impres- 
sion was,  "This  is  more  like  a  prison  than  an  '  Industrial  School.'" 
It  is  true,  that  several  of  the  youthful  inmates  have  sought  to 
make  their  little  cells  as  inviting  as  possible  by  pasting  engravings 
from  the  illustrated  papers  on  the  wall — and  even  these,  on  the 
morning  of  the  day  of  our  visit,  some  crusty  and  self-important 
personage  of  the  old  fogy  school  requested  that  "  them  things" 
should  be  "  torn  down." 

The  antiquated  and  exploded  idea  of  "  ruling  with  a  rod  of  iron" 
seems,  unfortunately,  to  have  found  its  way  into  this  institution ; 
and  all  the  angel  arts  and  elevating  tendencies  of  such  agencies 
as  taste,  refinement,  physical  and  mental  amusement,  mechanical 
conception  and  employment,  and  a  thousand  other  progressive 
influences,  with  all  their  happy  effects,  are,  as  yet,  excluded. 

At  half  past  five  o'clock  a.  m.,  they  are  called  up,  and  from 


214 


SCENES  IN  UALIEOKNEV. 


that  time  to  half  past  six,  they  are  preparing  for  breakfast ;  imme- 
diately after  that  meal  is  over,  they  are  taken  out  to  work — not  at 
any  light  mechanical  business,  forsooth,  but  to  use  a  pick  and 
shovel  in  grading  the  hill  at  the  back  of  the  building ;  such  labor 
that  is  not  only  much  too  heavy  for  their  strength,  but  in  which 
a  couple  of  Irishmen  would  do  more  in  half  a  day  than  the  entire 
corps  of  twenty -two  boys  (the  present  number  in  this  institution) 
could  perform  in  a  whole  week.  At  noon,  dinner  is  served  up  ; 
from  one  o'clock  to  half  past  two,  they  are  employed  at  picking 
and  shovelling,  same  as  in  the  morning ;  at  three  o'clock,  they  go 
to  school  until  half  past  five ;  supper  is  given  at  six ;  at  seven 
o'clock,  they  again  go  to  school  until  half  past  eight ;  and  at  nine 
they  are  sent  to  bed. 

There  are  also  a  few  girls  here,  who  are  allowed  to  perform  any 
kind  of  employment  in  accordance  with  their  tastes  and  wishes, 
under  the  supervision  of  the  matron. 

Now  we  ask — and  we  do  it  anxiously  and  with  the  kindest  and 
most  respectful  feeling — "  How  is  it  possible  that,  with  such  a 
routine  of  daily  employment,  they  can  possibly  be  improved  in 
morals,  which  is  the  great  and  laudable  aim  of  the  founders  of  the 
institution?"  There  is  no  gymnasium  ;  no  workshop  ;  no  suitable 
play  ground — so  that  now  they  are  all  huddled  together  in  the 
basement  story,  in  front  of  their  cells,  during  the  little  time 
allowed  them  for  leisure.  Indeed,  they  are  made  to  feel  by  far 
too  much  that  they  are  juvenile  prisoners,  rather  than  boys  and 
girls  who  are  placed  there,  by  a  generous  public,  for  their  physical, 
mental,  and  moral  improvement.  This  should  not  be,  and  we 
earnestly  commend  the  subject  to  the  careful  investigation  of  the 
Board  of  Managers. 

THE  OCEAN  HOUSE. 

Upon  reaching  the  top  of  the  ridge,  near  the  Industrial  School, 
you  perceive  that  we  get  a  glimpse  of  the  Pacific  Ocean ;  and 
shortly  afterward  find  ourselves  comfortably  seated  in  one  of  the 
parlors  of  the  Ocean  House,  where,  while  our  animals  are  resting, 
let  us  say  that  this  house  is  about  eight  and  one-fourth  miles  from 
San  Francisco,  and  was  erected  in  1855  by  Messrs.  Lovett  and 


SIGHTS  AKOUND  SAN  FRANCISCO. 


215 


Green.  If  report  speaks  the  truth,  they  were  just  beginning 
to  reap  the  reward  of  their  labors,  when  they  were  cheated 
out  of  it. 


THE  OCEAN  HOUSE. 


From  this  point,  we  have  a  commanding  view  of  the  surrounding 
country.  The  hill  in  front  of  us,  and  at  the  back  of  the  Industrial 
School,  contains  a  quarry  of  the  finest  of  sandstone,  and  which, 
were  there  but  a  railroad  upon  which  to  convey  it  to  the  city, 
could  be  delivered  there  at  from  two  to  three  dollars  per  ton. 
South  is  the  Lake  House,  and  Rockaway  House,  at  the  east  end 
of  Lake  Merced,  but  the  latter  is  now  used  only  as  a  private 
residence.  From  this  point,  too,  an  excellent  view  of  the  ocean 
is  obtained,  where  the  ships  and  steamers  are  plainly  visible. 

One  would  scarcely  suppose  that  here,  where  the  winds  sweep 
over  the  lands  with  such  fury,  stock  of  all  kinds  flourish  better 
than  in  many  of  the  favored  inland  valleys ;  yet  such  is  the  fact, 
for,  owing  to  the  dense  masses  of  heavy  fog-clouds  that  roll  in 
from  the  ocean,  the  verdure  is  perpetual,  while,  in  other  localities, 
it  is  parched  up.  The  gardens,  around,  produce  from  fifty-five  to 
one  hundred  sacks  of  potatoes  to  the  acre,  although  the  soil  is 
very  light  and  sandy.  Besides,  vegetables  are  taken  to  the  San 
Francisco  market,  from  this  section,  at  an  earlier  time  than  from 
that  of  any  other  part  of  the  State. 


216 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


THE  LAGUNA  HONDA. 

About  two  miles  north  of  the  Ocean  House  is  a  lake,  known  as 
the  Laguna  Honda,  at  which  a  distressing  accident  occurred  in 
1855,  as  the  reader  will  call  to  memory,  when  two  ladies  and 
their  two  children  were  all  drowned  together,  under  the  following 
circumstances.  In  the  hack  part  of  a  carriage,  built  in  the 
rockaway  style,  were  seated  Mrs.  Opeinhimer  and  Mrs.  Urzney, 
each  lady  holding  a  child.  On  the  front  seat,  were  two  servants, 
a  man  and  woman,  the  former  of  whom  was  driving.  Having 
taken  the  road  up  the  Rock  House  ravine,  instead  of  that  to  the 
Ocean  House,  they  arrived  at  the  edge  of  the  lake,  above  named, 
and  the  road  not  being  wide  enough  to  admit  their  carriage,  they 
drove  into  the  water  a  little,  on  the  edge  of  the  lake.  They  could 
have  passed  here  in  safety,  but,  unfortunately,  the  wheel  struck  a 
stump,  and  by  some  unexplainable  means,  the  horse  Avas  thrown 
round,  and  he  fell  into  deep  water,  when  the  carriage  was 
immediately  turned  upside  down,  and  the  forepart,  striking  the 
water,  was  forced  down  upon  the  two  ladies  and  their  children^ 
shutting  them  completely  in,  and  they  sunk  to  rise  no  more.  The 
servants,  being  left  free,  in  the  front  of  the  carriage,  succeeded  in 
reaching  the  shore,  and  were  saved. 

THE  BEACH  HOUSE. 

Snugly  ensconced  beneath  the  hill,  about  half  a  mile  from  the 
Ocean  House,  and  within  a  quarter  of  a  mile  of  the  sea,  is  the 
Beach  House.  This  was  first  built  on  the  shore,  near  the  edge  of 
a  small  lake  that  we  pass,  but  the  high  tides  flowing  in,  washed 
away  its  foundations,  and  compelled  the  alternative  of  their 
removing  it  at  once,  or  of  allowing  the  sea  to  do  it  for  them ;  and 
as  the  owners  considered  themselves  the  best  carpenters  of  the 
two,  they  undertook,  and  succeeded  in,  the  task — but  here  we  are, 
on  the  beach. 

THE  DRIVE  ALONG  THE  BEACH  TO  SEAL  ROCK. 

There  is  a  never-ceasing  pleasure  to  a  refined  mind,  in  looking 


SIGHTS  ABOUND  SAN  FRANCISCO. 


217 


upon,  or  listening  to,  the  hoarse,  murmuring  roar  of  the  sea ;  an 
unexplainable  charm  in  the  music  of  its  waves,  as,  with  a  seething 
sound,  they  curl  and  gently  break  upon  a  sandy  shore",  during  a 
calm;  or  dash  in  all  their  majesty  and  fury,  with  thundering 
voices,  upon  the  unheeding  rocks  in  a  storm.  This  is  sublimity. 
Besides,  every  shell,  and  pebble,  and  marine  plant,  from  the 
smallest  fragment  of  sea-moss  to  the  largest  weed  that  germinates 
within  the  caverns  of  the  deep,  has  an  architectural  perfection  and 
beauty,  that  ever  attracts  the  wondering  admiration  of  the 
thoughtful.  Yet  we  must  not  now  linger  here,  or  night  will 
overtake  us. 

This  beach  extends  cont  inuously  from  Seal  Hock  to  Muscle  Rock, 
about  seven  miles.  Near  the  last-named  place  is  a  soda  spring, 
and  several  veins  of  bituminous  coal,  to  obtain  which,  shafts  have 
been  sunk  to  the  depth  of  one  hundred  and  twenty-four  feet,  in 
which  the  coal  was  found  to  grow  better  as  they  descended ;  but, 
like  many  similar  enterprises,  when  means  to  work  it  failed,  it 


218 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


was  abandoned.  Other  minerals  are  also  found  in  this  chain  of 
hills. 

Having  had  onr  ride  along  the  beach  as  far  as  Seal  Rock,  and 
watched  the  movements  and  listened  to  the  loud  shrill  voices  of 
the  sea-lions,  let  us  drive  up  the  sand-bank  south  of  the  old  Seal 
Rock  House  (now  tenantless),  and  we  shall  find  the  road  to  the 
Fort  as  sandy  and  as  heavy  as  we  could  desire  it ;  yet,  with  the 
consolation  that  we  can  endure  it,  if  the  horses  are  able,  until  we 
reach 

FORT  POINT. 

When  this  was  first  taken  and  occupied  by  American  troops, 
belonging  to  Colonel  Stephenson's  battalion,  under  Major  Hardie, 
in  March,  1847,  they  found  a  circular  battery  of  ten  iron  guns, 
sixteen-pounders,  mounted  upon  the  hill,  just  above  the  present 
works,  and  which  was  allowed  to  remain,  until  a  better  one  was 
ready  to  occupy  its  place. 

The  present  beautiful  and  substantial  structure  was  commenced 
in  1854,  and  is  now  nearly  completed.  It  is  four  tiers  in  height, 
the  topmost  of  which  is  sixty -four  feet  above  low  tide  ;  and  is 
capable  of  mounting  one  hundred  and  fifty  guns,  including  the 
battery  at  the  back,  of  forty-two,  sixty-four,  and  one  hundred  and 
twenty-eight-pounders ;  and,  during  an  engagement,  can  accom- 
modate two  thousand  four  hundred  men.  There  have  been  appro- 
priations made,  including  the  last,  of  one  million  eight  hundred 
thousand  dollars.  The  greatest  number  of  men  employed  at  any 
one  time,  was  two  hundred ;  now  there  are  about  eighty. 

The  Lighthouse,  adjoining  the  Fort,  can  be  seen  for  from  ten  to 
twelve  miles,  and  is  an  important  addition  to  the  mercantile  inter- 
ests of  California,  although  we  regret  to  say  the  lantern,  known  as 
the  "  Freznel  Light,"  is  only  of  the  fifth  order,  and  is  the  smallest 
on  the  coast ;  it  is  fifty-two  feet  above  level.  Two  men  are  em- 
ployed to  attend  it.  Connected  with  this  is  a  fog  bell,  weighing 
one  thousand  one  hundred  pounds,  and  worked  by  machinery,  that 
strikes  every  ten  seconds  for  five  taps — then  has  an  intermission  of 
thirty-four  seconds,  and  recommences  the  ten-second  strike.  This 
is  kept  constantly  running  during  foggy  weather. 


SIGHTS  ABOUND  SAN  FKANCISCO. 


219 


In  the  small  bay  south  of  the  Fort,  have  been  two  wrecks :  the 
Chateau  Palmer,  May  1st,  1856,  and  the  General  Ousting,  October 
9th,  1858;  both  outward  bound,  and  partially  freighted. 

Between  Fort  Point  and  (the  celebrated  political  hobby)  Lime 
Point,  is  the  world-famed  Golden  Gate,  or  entrance  to  the  Bay  of 
San  Francisco.  This  is  one  mile  and  seventeen  yards  wide.  The 
tide  here  varies  about  seven  feet. 

From  this  interesting  spot,  and  on  our  way  to  the  city,  we  pass 

titi:  presidio. 


VIEW  OF  THE  PRESIDIO. 
From  a  l'hotoqiaph  by  Hamilton  A  Co. 


This  is  a  military  post,  that  was  established  shortly  after  the 
arrival  of  the  first  missionaries,  mainly  for  their  protection  ;  it  was 
originally  occupied  by  Spanish  troops,  and  afterward  by  Mexi- 
can, until  March,  1847,  when  it  was  taken  by  the  United  States, 
at  which  time  the  whole  force  of  the  enemy  was  a  single  corporal. 
At  this  time,  also,  there  were  two  old  Spanish  brass  field-pieces 
found  here,  and  two  more  near  the  beach,  about  where  the  end  of 
Battery  street,  San  Francisco,  now  is,  and  from  which  that  street 
derived  its  name. 


220 


SCENKS  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


The  original  buildings  were  constructed  in  a  quadrangular 
form  ;  these  having  fallen  into  decay,  but  three  remain,  two  of 
which  at  the  present  time  are  used  as  store-rooms.  At  the  close  of 
the  war,  this  post  was  occupied  by  a  company  of  dragoons,  who  were 
relieved  by  a  company  of  the  3d  Artillery,  under  Captain  Keyes, 
who  kept  it  continuously  for  ten  years.  Its  present  garrison  con- 
sists of  two  companies  of  the  6th  Infantry,  numbering  about  180, 
officers  and  men. 


THE  CALIFORNIA  GEYSERS. 


221 


CHAPTER  X. 
THE   CALIFORNIA  GEYSERS. 

SAILING  FROM  THE  WIIARK. 


S  the  fine  little  steamer 
"  Rambler  "  was  sounding 
her  last  whistle,  we  received 
a  parting  injunction — writes 
an  esteemed  acquaintance*- 
from  friends  on  the  Broad- 
way street  wharf,  San  Fran- 
cisco, "  to  keep  well  aft," 
and  stepped  on  board. 

It  was  one  of  the  chilliest, 
dreariest,  most  disagreeable 
of  San  Francisco's  summer 
mornings.  A  dense  fog, 
fresh  from  the  great  factory 
out  on  the  Pacific,  was  roll- 


T  II  E    WITCHES  CAULDRON. 


*  Mr.  Geo.  Tirrell,  designer  and  painter  of  the  Panorama  of  California. 


222 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


ing  in  over  the  hills  at  the  back  of  the  city,  and  hurrying  across 
the  bay  before  a  stiff  north-west  wind.  The  waves,  as  they  rolled 
along  the  sides  of  the  shipping,  or  splashed  among  the  piles, 
seemed  to  be  playing  a  most  melancholy  march,  to  which  the 
great  army  of  fog-clouds  moved  across  the  cheerless  water,  and 
their  commanding  officer — the  wind — seemed  to  be  continually 
saying  "  forward,"  as  it  whistled  through  the  rigging  of  the 
ships. 

The  individual  who  is  always  just  too  late,  made  his  appear- 
ance, as  usual,  as  the  steamer's  fasts  were  cast  off,  and  her  wheels 
commenced  their  lively  though  monotonous  ditty  in  the  water. 

Two  or  three  Whitehall  boatmen,  who  were  lying  off  the  wharf, 
evidently  expecting  such  a  "  fare,"  gave  their  lazily  playing  skulls 
a  vigorous  pull,  which  sent  their  beautiful  little  craft  darting  into 
the  wharf.  The  boy  with  the  basket  of  oranges  hastened  to  offer 
the  would-be-traveller  "  three  for  two  bits"  by  way  of  consolation, 
and  as  he  slowly  proceeded  up  the  dock  again,  the  other  boy  with 
the  papers  and  magazines  called  his  attention  to  the  last  "Har- 
per's," or  "  Hurdling's  California  Magazine." 

The  ten  thousand  voices  of  the  city  became  blended  into  a  con- 
tinuous roar,  as  we  glided  out  into  the  stream;  the  long  drawn 
"  go-o-o  ahead,"  or  "  hi-i-gh,"  of  the  stevedores  at  their  work  dis- 
charging the  stately  clippers,  being  about  the  only  intelligible 
sounds  to  be  distinguished  above  the  mass. 

CROSSING  THE  BAY. 

Soon  the  outermost  ship,  on  board  of  which  a  disconsolate 
looking  "jolly  tar"  was  riding  down  one  of  the  head  stays,  giving 
it  a  "  lick"  of  tar  as  he  went,  was  passed,  and  we  struck  the  strong 
current  of  wind  which  was  blowing  in  at  the  Golden  Gate  (care- 
lessly left  open,  as  usual).  The  young  giant  of  a  city  had  become 
swallowed  up  in  the  gloom  of  the  fog,  and  its  thousands  of  busy 
people  ceased  to  exist,  except  in  our  imaginations.  After  passing 
Angel  Island,  the  fog  began  to  lift ;  we  were  approaching  the 
edge  of  the  bank ;  and  soon  the  sun  appeared,  hard  at  work  at 
his  apparently  hopeless  task  of  devouring  the  intruding  fog,  which 


THE  CALIFORNIA  GEYSERS. 


223 


had  dared  to  interpose  its  cold  billows  between  him  and  the  bay. 
upon  which  he  loves  to  shine. 

The  course  of  the  boat  was  along  the  western  side  of  Pablo  Bay, 
close  enough  to  the  shore  to  give  the  passengers  a  fine  view  of  it, 
as  well  as  of  the  inland  country,  and  the  more  distant  mountains 
of  the  coast  range.  Large  masses  of  misty  clouds,  which  had 
become  detached  from  the  main  fog  bank,  still  partially  obscured 
the  sunlight,  casting  enormous  shadows  along  the  hill  sides  and 
across  the  plains,  heightening,  by  contrast,  the  golden  tinge  of  the 
wild  oats,  and  giving  additional  beauty  to  the  varied  tints  of  the 
cultivated  fields.  Beyond,  Tarnal  Pais,  and  other  and  lesser 
peaks  of  the  Coast  Range,  piled  their  wealth  of  purple  light  and 
misty  shadows  against  the  brightness  of  the  western  sky. 

I  wonder  that  our  artists,  in  their  search  for  the  picturesque, 
have  overlooked  the  splendid  scene  which  Tamal  Pais  and  the 
adjacent  mountains  present  from  the  vicinity  of  Bed  Bock,  or 
from  the  eastern  shore  of  the  straits.  It  is  certainly  one  of  the 
most  picturesque  scenes  anywhere  in  the  vicinity  of  San  Francisco, 
especially  toward  sunset,  when  the  long  streaks  of  sunlight  come 
streaming  down  the  ravines,  piercing  with  their  golden  light  the 
hazy  mystery  which  envelops  the  mountains,  and  brilliantly  illum- 
inating the  intervening  plains  and  hill-sides.  From  the  familiarity 
of  the  view,  a  good  picture  would,  without  doubt,  be  much  sought 
after. 

NAVIGATION  OK  PET  ALT/MA  CREEK. 

The  seamanship  of  the  pilot  was  much  exercised  while  navi- 
gating the  "Rambler"  up  Petaluma  Creek.  The  creek  is  merely  a 
long,  narrow,  ditch-like  indentation,  which  makes  up  into  the  flat 
tide  plains  at  the  northern  side  of  Pablo  Bay,  and  into  which  the 
tide  ebbs  and  flows.  Its  course  very  much  resembles  the  track  of 
a  man  who  has  spent  half  an  hour  hunting  for  a  lost  pocket-book 
in  a  field.  If,  after  gazing  awhile  at  the  creek,  the  eye  should  be 
suddenly  turned  to  a  ram's  horn  or  a  manzanita  stick,  the  latter 
would  appear  perfectly  straight,  by  comparison.  First  we  go 
toward  the  north  star  awhile,  then  we  come  to  a  short  bend 
where  an  immense  amount  of  backing,  and  stopping,  and  going 


224 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


ahead  occurs,  which,  all  results  in  running  the  boat  hard  and  fast 
ashore.  Then  the  pilot,  perspiring  freely  from  his  violent  exer- 
tions at  the  wheel,  thrusts  his  head  out  of  the  window,  and,  after 
taking  a  survey  of  the  state  of  affairs,  sets  himself  to  ringing  the 
signal  bells  again.  Then  the  crew  get  out  a  long  pole,  and  plant- 
ing one  end  in  the  bank,  apply  their  united  strength  to  the  other. 
No  movement !  Then  the  captain  heroically  rushes  ashore  in  the 
mud  and  tules,  and  calls  for  volunteers  to  help  him  push.  Human 


strength  and  steam  triumph  in  the  end,  and  the  "  Rambler,"  with 
one  side  all  besmeared  with  mud,  goes  paddling  off  toward  Cape 
Horn.  After  progressing  a  short  distance  in  this  direction,  another 
bend  is  reached,  when  more  superhuman  exertion  on  the  part  of 
the  pilot  ensues,  and  plump  we  go  ashore  again.  Then  the  captain 
gives  utterance  to  a  vigorous  exclamation  (but  as  the  expletive 
does  no  good,  it  is  hardly  necessary  to  repeat  it  here),  and  then 
he  jumps  into  the  mud  again.  Half  the  passengers  follow  suit, 
the  crew  go  through  with  their  pole  exercise,  pilot  plays  another 


THE  CALIFORNIA  GEYSERS. 


225 


tune  on  the  bells,  engineer  gets  bothered,  and  finally  off  we  start 
in  the  direction  of  Japan,  leaving  the  captain  and  his  shore  party 
standing  in  the  mud.  Upon  backing  up  for  them  to  get  on  board, 
the  bout  becomes  fast  again.  This  is  a  fair  specimen  of  the  navi- 
gation of  Petaluma  Creek  above  the  city  (of  one  house)  called 
the  Haystack. 

Before  reaching  Petaluma,  we  met  a  little  steamer  coming  down 
with  a  load  of  wood.  She  resembled  an  immense  pile  of  wood 
with  a  smoke-stack  in  the  centre,  floating  down  the  stream,  and 
appeared  to  take  up  the  whole  width  of  the  creek,  when  our  pas- 
sengers began  to  wonder  how  we  were  to  get  by.  It  was  a  tight 
fit.  There  was  not  room  enough  left  between  the  two  boats  to 
insert  this  sheet  of  paper.  The  "Rambler"  puffed,  and  from  the 
depths  of  the  wood  pile  was  heard  a  sort  of  wheezing,  as  if  half  a 
dozen  people  with  bad  colds  were  down  there  somewhere,  all  try- 
ing to  cough  at  once,  and  couldn't.  Thy  captain  gave  utterance 
to  a  few  more  expletives,  as  the  rough  ends  of  the  wood  defaced 
the  new  paint  on  our  boat ;  but  the  skipper  of  the  wood-pile  only 
laughed;  yet,  as  the  "Rambler,"  in  passing,  scraped  off  two  or 
three  cords  of  his  cargo,  it  then  became  our  turn  to  laugh. 

PETALUMA,  AND  THE  RUSSIAN  RIVER  VALLEY. 

Petaluma  was  reached  at  last,  and  the  passengers  for  Ilealds- 
burg  found  a  stage  in  waiting.  Jumping  in,  we  were  soon  whiz- 
zing across  the  plains  behind  a  couple  of  fine  colts.  The  road  lay 
directly  up  the  Petaluma  and  Russian  River  Valleys.  Past  the 
ranches — -along  the  sides  of  interminable  fields  of  corn  and 
grain — through  the  splendid  park-like  groves — sometimes  across 
the  open  plain,  at  others  winding  around  the  base  of  the  hills, 
which  make  up  from  the  eastern  side  of  the  valley. 

Santa  Rosa  was  reached  by  sunset.  Our  arrival  was  hailed  by 
the  ringing  of  a  great  number  and  variety  of  bells.  How  sing- 
ular it  is  that  the  arrival  of  a  stage-coach  in  a  country  town 
always  sets  the  dinner-bells  to  ringing,  especially  if  the  occurrence 
happens  about  meal  time. 

By  the  time  supper  was  despatched,  and  a  pair  of  sober  old 
10* 


226 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


stagers  put  to  in  the  place  of  our  frisky  young  colts,  the  moon  had 
risen  over  the  mountains,  and  was  flooding  the  valley  with  htr 
glorious  sheen,  tipping  the  fine  old  oaks  with  a  silvery  fringe  of 
light,  and  laying  their  solemn  shadows  along  the  grass  and  across 
the  road.  A  pleasant  ride  of  two  hours  carried  us  to  the  end  of 
our  first  day's  journey,  Ilealdsburg. 

On  the  following  morning,  we  were  recommended  to  apply  at 
the  stable  opposite  the  hotel  for  horses.  Having  selected  one 
warranted  not  to  kick  up  nor  stand  on  his  hind  legs,  nor  jump 
stiff-legged,  nor  play  any  other  pranks,  he  was  saddled  and 
bridled  at  once.  Our  portfolio  (which,  for  want  of  a  better  cover- 
ing, was  carried  in  an  old  barley  sack)  was  slung  on  one  side,  and 
our  wardrobe  depended  at  the  other.  A  whip  was  added  to  com- 
plete the  outfit,  accompanied  by  the  observation  that  as  "  Old 
Pete"  was  apt  to  "  soger,"  "  we  might  find  it  useful." 

Then  the  stable  man  attempted  to  describe  the  road  to  Ray's 
Ranche.  First,  we  should  come  to  a  bridge  ;  a  mile  beyond  that, 
see  a  house,  to  which  we  were  to  pay  no  attention,  but  look  out 
for  a  haystack.  Having  found  the  haystack,  we  were  to  turn  to 
the  left,  and  would  soon  come  to  a  long  lane,  that  would  lead  us 
to  another  house,  where  we  were  either  to  turn  to  the  right,  or 
keep  straight  ahead,  he  had  forgotten  which.  At  this  point  of  the 
description,  a  bystander  interposed,  saying  that  we  must  turn  to 
the  left ;  upon  this,  an  argument  sprung  up  between  the  two, 
which  nearly  led  to  a  fight. 

Finding  that  there  was  not  much  information  to  be  elicited 
from  those  witnesses,  "  Old  Pete"  received  a  touch  and  started, 
with  our  head  buzzing  with  right  and  left  hand  roads,  while  a 
regiment  of  ranches,  lanes,  and  haystacks,  seemed  to  be  a  "  bob- 
bing round"  just  ahead  of  the  horse's  nose.  We  found  the  bridge, 
and  saw  the  house,  to  which  we  were  to  pay  no  attention  ;  there 
was  no  need  of  looking  out  for  a  haystack,  for  a  dozen  were  in 
sight ;  so,  selecting  the  biggest  one,  we  turned  to  the  left,  accord- 
ing to  the  chart. 

We  rode  along  about  a  mile,  and  came  to  a  fence  which  barred 
any  further  progress  in  that  direction  ;  then  kept  along  the  fence 


THE  CALIFORNIA  GEYSERS. 


227 


until  we  came  to  a  lane  which  took  us  to  a  pair  of  bars.  Let 
down  the  obstruction,  traversed  another  lane,  and  at  the  end  of 
it  found  ourselves  in  somebody's  dooryard.  It  was  evident  that 
we  had  taken  the  wrong  road. 

We  now  obtained  fresh  directions  at  the  farm-house,  but  as 
three  or  four  attempted  at  the  same  time  to  tell  us  the  way — all 
talking  at  oncer  and  each  insisting  upon  his  favorite  route  so  that 
we  speedily  became  mixed  up  again  with  another  labyrinth  of 
fences,  lanes,  and  haystacks — we  began  to  doubt  the  existence  of 
such  a  place  as  "  Ray's  Ranche."  It  seemed  forever  retreating  as 
we  advanced,  like  the  mythical  crock  of  gold,  buried  at  the  foot 
of  a  rainbow,  which  we  remembered  starting  in  search  of  once, 
when  a  youngster. 

But  the  ranche  was  found  at  last,  and  a  very  line  one  it  is,  too. 
The  house  is  situated  a  little  way  up  in  the  foot-hills,  and  com- 
mands a  splendid  view  of  Russian  River  Valley,  the  Coast  Range, 
Mount  St.  Helens,  etc.  The  ranche  itself,  garden,  orchards,  and 
fields  of  wheat  and  corn,  is  situated  in  a  valley,  just  below  the 
house,  which  makes  up  between  the  steep  mountain  sides.  A 


RAY'  RANCHE  AND  RUSSIAN  RIVER  VALLEY. 


brook  winds  through  the  whole  length  of  the  little  valley,  afford- 
ing capital  facilities  for  irrigation. 

We  had  the  good  luck  here  to  fill  in  with  Mr.  G  ,  one  of 


228 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


the  proprietors  of  the  Geysers,  who  was  also  on  the  way  up.  From 
the  accounts  which  have  heen  published,  we  expected  to  find  the 
road  from  here  a  rough  one.  But  it  is  nothing  of  the  sort.  It  is 
a  very  good  mountain  trail,  wide  enough  for  a  wagon  to  pass 
along  its  whole  length.  Buggies  have  heen  clear  through,  and 
could  go  again,  were  a  few  days'  work  to  he  expended  upon  the 
trail.    It  is  quite  steep,  in  many  places,  as  a  matter  of  course ; 

but  from  the  fact  that  Mr.  G          (who  was  mounted  upon  a 

young  colt,  that  had  never  before  been  ridden,  and  had  simply  a 
piece  of  rope  by  way  of  bridle)  trotUd  down  most  of  the  declivi- 
ties, it  may  be  inferred  that  the  grade  is  not  so  very  steep. 

The  first  three  or  four  miles  beyond  Bay's,  to  the  summit  of  the 
first  ridge,  is  all  up  hill ;  nearly  1,700  feet  in  altitude  being  gained 
in  that  distance,  or  2,268  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  Bay's 
being  017. 

view  from  Godwin's  peak. 

There  are  few  places  in  all  California  where  a  more  magnificent 
view  can  be  obtained,  than  the  one  seen  from  this  ridge.  The 
whole  valley  of  Bussian  Biver  lies  like  a  map  at  your  feet,  extend- 
ing from  the  south-east  and  south,  where  it  joins  Betaluma  Valley, 
clear  round  to  the  north-west.  The  course  of  the  river  can  be  traced 
for  miles,  far  away,  alternately  sweeping  its  great  curves  of  rippling 
silver  out  into  the  opening  plain,  or  disappearing  behind  the  dark 
masses  of  timber.  From  one  end  of  the  valley  to  the  other,  the 
golden  yellow  of  the  plain  is  diversified  by  the  darker  tints  of  the 
noble  oaks.  In  some  places  they  stand  in  great  crowds  ;  then  an 
open  space  will  occur,  with  perhaps  a  few  scattered  trees,  which 
serve  to  conduct  the  eye  to  where  a  long  line  of  them  appears) 
like  an  army  drawn  up  for  review,  with  a  few  single  trees  in  front 
by  way  of  officers  ;  and  in  the  rear  a  confused  crowd  of  stragglers 
to  represent  the  baggage  train  and  camp  followers.  Here  and 
there,  among  the  oaks,  the  vivid  green  foliage  and  bright  red 
stems  of  the  graceful  madrone,  and  on  the  banks  of  the  river  can 
be  seen  the  silvery  willows  and  the  dusky  sycamores. 

The  beauty  of  the  plain  is  still  more  enhanced  by  the  numerous 


THE  CALIFORNIA  GEYSERS. 


229 


ranches,  with  their  widely  extending  fields  of  ripe  grain  and  ver- 
dant corn. 

Beyond  the  valley  is  the  long  extending  line  of  the  Coast  Moun- 
tains. The  slanting  rays  of  the  declining  snn  were  overspreading 
the  mysterious  blue  and  purple  of  their  shadowy  sides  with  a 
glorious  golden  haze,  through  whose  gauzy  splendor  could  be 
traced  the  summits  only  of  the  different  ranges — towering  one 
above  the  other,  each  succeeding  fainter  than  the  last,  until  the 
indescribably  fine  outline  of  the  highest  peaks,  but  one  remove,  in 
color,  from  the  sky  itself,  bounded  the  prospect. 

Toward  the  south-east,  we  could  see  Mount  St.  Helen's,  and  the 
upper  part  of  Napa  Valley.  St.  Helen's  is  certainly  the  most 
beautiful  mountain  in  California.  It  is  far  from  being  as  lofty 
as  its  more  pretentious  brethren  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  and  by 
the  side  of  the  great  Shasta  Butte  it  would  be  dwarfed  to  a  mole- 
hill ;  but  its  chaste  and  graceful  outline  is  the  very  ideal  of 
mountain  form.  There  is  said  to  be  a  copper  plate,  bearing  an 
inscription,  on  the  summit  of  this  mountain,  placed  there  by  the 
Russians  many  years  ago. 

Away  off,  toward  the  south,  we  could  discern  that  same  old  fog, 
still  resting,  like  a  huge  incubus,  upon  San  Francisco  hay.  Its 
fleecy  billows  were  constantly  in  motion — now  obscuring,  now 
revealing  the  summits  of  different  peaks,  which  rose  like  islands 
out  of  the  sea  of  clouds.  Above,  and  far  beyond  the  fog,  the 
view  terminated  with  the  long,  level  line  of  the  blue  Pacific,  sixty 
or  seventy  miles  distant. 

From  the  point  where  we  have  stopped  to  take  this  extended 
view  (too  much  extended,  on  paper,  perhaps  the  reader  will  think), 
the  horses  climbed  slowly  up  the  steep  ascent,  leading  to  a 
plateau,  on  the  northern  side  of  a  mountain,  which  has  received 
no  less  than  three  different  names.  As  it  is  a  difficult  matter, 
among  so  many  titles,  to  fix  upon  the  proper  one,  we  will  enumer- 
ate them  all,  and  the  reader  can  take  his  choice.  The  mountain 
was  first  called  "  Godwin's  Peak,"  in  honor  of — there,  G — — ,  the 
cat's  out  of  the  bag!  your  name  has  got  into  print,  in  spite  of 
our  endeavors  to  keep  it  out.    With  characteristic  modesty,  Mr. 


230 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


G  declined  the  honor  which  the  name  conferred  upon  him, 

and  it  was  changed  by  somebody  or  other  to  "  Geyser  Peak ;" 
but,  for  some  unknown  reason,  this  name  also  failed  to  stick,  and 
somebody  else  came  along  and  called  it  "  Sulphur  Peak."  Both 
the  latter  names  are  inappropriate,  for  there  are  no  Geysers  nor 
no  sulphur  within  five  miles  of  the  mountain.  G.,  we  are  afraid 
you  will  have  to  endure  your  honors,  and  stand  godfather  to  it. 

The  "  Peak"  rises  to  the  height  of  three  thousand  four  hundred 
and  seventy-one  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  its  sides  are 
covered,  clear  to  the  summit,  with  a  thick  growth  of  tangled 
chaparal.  From  here,  the  trail  runs  along  the  narrow  ridge  of 
the  mountains,  forming  the  divide  between  "  Sulphur  Creek"  (an 
odious  name  for  a  beautiful  trout  stream)  and  Pluton  River. 
The  ridge  is  called  the  "  Hog's  Back" — still  another  name,  as 
inappropriate  as  it  is  homely.  The  ridge  much  more  resembles 
the  back  of  a  horse  which  has  just  crossed  the  plains,  or  has 
dieted  for  some  time  on  shavings,  than  that  of  a  plump  porker. 
From  the  end  of  this  ridge  the  trail  is  quite  level,  as  far  as  the 
top  of  the  hill,  which  pitches  sharply  down  to  the  river,  and  at 
the  foot  of  which  the  Geysers  are  situated. 

ARRIVAL  AT  THE  GEYSERS. 

When  about  two-thirds  of  the  way  down  the  hill,  the  rushing 
noise  of  the  escaping  steam  of  the  Great  Geyser  can  be  heard ; 
but,  unless  the  stranger's  attention  was  called  to  it,  he  would  mis- 
take the  sound  for  the  roaring  of  the  river.  About  this  time, 
too,  is  recognized  the  sulphurous  smell  with  which  the  air  is 
impregnated. 

Just  as  the  traveller  begins  seriously  to  think  that  the  hill  has 
no  bottom,  the  white  gable  end  of  the  hotel,  looking  strangely  out 
of  place  among  its  wild  surroundings,  comes  unexpectedly  into 
sight. 

Upon  awakening,  on  the  following  morning,  it  was  a  difficult 
matter  to  convince  ourselves  that  we  had  not  been  transported, 
while  asleep,  to  the  close  vicinity  of  some  of  the  wharves  in  San 
Francisco,  there  was  such  a  powerf  ul  smell  of  what  seemed  to  be 


THE  CALIFORNIA  GEYSEES. 


231 


CiEYSER  springs  hotel. 

ancient  dock  mud.  It  was  the  sulphur.  The  smell  is  a  trifle  un- 
pleasant at  first,  hut  one  soon  becomes  accustomed  to  it,  and  rather 
likes  it  than  otherwise. 

The  view  of  the  Geysers,  from  the  hotel,  is  a  very  striking  one, 
more  especially  in  the  morning,  when  the  steam  can  be  plainly 
seen,  issuing  from  the  earth  in  a  hundred  different  places ;  the 
numerous  columns  uniting  at  some  distance  above  the  earth,  and 
forming  an  immense  cloud,  which  overhangs  the  whole  canon. 

As  the  sun  advances  above  the  hills,  this  cloud  is  speedily 
"  eaten  up,"  and  the  different  columns  of  steam,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  those  from  the  Steamboat  Geyser,  the  Witches'  Cauldron, 
and  a  few  others,  become  invisible,  being  evaporated  as  fast  as 
they  issue  from  the  ground. 

Breakfast  disposed  of,  Mr.  G.  kindly  offered  to  conduct  us  to 


232 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


the  different  springs.  The  trail  descends  abruptly  from  the  house, 
among  the  tangled  undergrowth  of  the  steep  mountain  side,  to  the  » 
river,  some  ninety  feet  below.  We  passed  on  the  way  the  long 
row  of  bathing-houses,  the  water  for  which  is  conveyed  across  the 
river  in  a  lead  pipe,  from  a  hot  sulphur  spring  on  the  opposite 
side. 

The  unearthly-looking  canon,  in  which  most  of  the  springs  are 
situated,  makes  up  into  the  mountains  directly  from  the  river.  A 
small  stream  of  water,  which  rises  at  the  head  of  the  canon,  flows 
through  its  whole  length.  The  stream  is  pure  and  cold  at  its 
source,  but  gradually  becomes  heated,  and  its  purity  sadly  sullied, 
as  it  receives  the  waters  of  the  numerous  springs  along  its  banks. 


GEYSER  CANON. 


Hot  springs  and  cold  springs  ;  white,  red,  and  black  sulphur 
springs  ;  iron,  soda,  and  boiling  alum  springs  ;  and  the  deuce  only 
knows  what  other  kind  of  springs,  all  pour  their  medicated  waters 
into  the  little  stream,  until  its  once  pure  and  limpid  water — like  a 
human  patient  made  sick  by  over-doctoriug — becomes  pale,  and 


THE  CALIFORNIA  GKYSKR8. 


233 


has  a  wlieyish,  sickly,  unnatural  look,  as  it  feverishly  tosses  and 
tumbles  over  its  rocky  bed. 

A  short  distance  up  the  canon  there  is  a  deep,  shady  pool,  which 
receives  the  united  waters  of  all  the  springs  above  it.  By  the 
time  the  stream  reaches  here,  its  medicated  waters  become  cooled 
to  the  temperature  of  a  warm  summer  day,  and  the  basin  forms, 
perhaps,  the  most  luxurious  bath  to  be  found  in  the  world. 

A  few  feet  from  this,  there  is  a  warm  alum  and  iron  spring, 
whose  water  is  more  thoroughly  impregnated  than  any  of  the 
others. 


phoshkpine's  grotto. 


A  little  way  further  up  is  "  Proserpine's  Grotto,"  an  enchanting 
retreat  among  the  wild  rocks,  completely  surrounded  and  enclosed 
by  the  fantastic  roots  and  tw  isted  branches  of  the  bay  trees,  and 


234- 


SCENES   IN  CALIFORNIA. 


roofed  over  by  tlieir  wide-spreading  foliage.  Glimpses  of  the  nar- 
row gorge  above,  with  its  numerous  cascades,  can  be  obtained 
through  the  openings  of  the  trees  ;  the  whole  forming  one  of  the 
finest  "  little  bits,"  as  an  artist  would  call  it,  to  be  found  in  the 
country. 

As  we  proceeded  up  the  canon  the  springs  became  more  numer- 
ous. They  were  bubbling  and  boiling  in  every  direction.  We 
hardly  dared  to  move  for  fear  of  putting  our  feet  into  a  spring  of 
boiling  alum,  or  red  sulphur,  or  some  other  infernal  concoction. 
The  water  of  the  stream,  too,  was  now  scalding  hot,  and  the  rocks, 
and  the  crumbling,  porous  earth,  were  nearly  as  hot  as  the  water. 
We  took  good  care  to  literally  "  follow  in  the  footsteps  of  our 
illustrious  predecessor,"  as  he  hopped  about  from  boulder  to  boul- 
der, or  rambled  along  in  (as  we  thought)  dangerous  proximity  to 
the  boiling  waters.  Every  moment  he  would  pick  up  a  handful 
of  magnesia,  or  alum,  or  sulphur,  or  tartaric  acid,  or  Epsom  salts, 
or  some  other  nasty  stuff,  plenty  of  which  encrusted  all  the  rocks 
and  earth  in  the  vicinity,  and  invite  us  to  taste  them.  From  fre- 
quent nibblings  at  the  different  deposits,  our  mouths  became  so 
puckered  up,  that  all  taste  was  lost  for  any  thing  else. 

In  addition  to  these  strange  and  unnatural  sights,  the  ear  was 
saluted  by  a  great  variety  of  startling  sounds.  Every  spring  had 
a  voice.  Some  hissed  and  sputtered  like  water  poured  upon  red 
hot  iron  ;  others  reminded  one  of  the  singing  of  a  tea-kettle,  or  the 
purring  of  a  cat ;  and  others  seethed  and  bubbled  like  so  many 
cauldrons  of  boiling  oil.  One  sounded  precisely  like  the  ma- 
chinery of  a  grist  mill  in  motion  (it  is  called  "The  Devil's  Grist 
Mill"),  and  another  like  the  propeller  of  a  steamer. 

High  above  all  these  sounds  was  the  loud  roaring  of  the  great 
"Steamboat  Geyser."*  The  steam  of  this  Geyser  issues  with 
great  force  from  a  hole  about  two  feet  in  diameter,  and  it  is  so 
heated  as  to  be  invisible  until  it  has  risen  to  some  height  from  the 

*  Tliis  Geyser  is  shown  in  the  view  of  "  Geyser  Canon."  It  is  the  upper  large  column 
of  steam  on  llie  left  side  of  the  canon  ;  the  one  below  it,  and  nearer  the  spectator,  is 
the  "  Witches'  Cauldron."  The  foreground  of  the  view  is  occupied  by  the  "  Mountain 
of  Fire."  from  which  the  steam  issues  by  a  hundred  different  apertures. 


THE  CALIFORNIA  GKYSKKS. 


235 


"•round.  It  is  highly  dangerous  to  approach  very  close  to  it  unless 
there  is  sufficient  wind  to  blow  the  steam  aside. 

But  the  most  startling  of  all  the  various  sounds  was  a  continuous 
subterranean  roar,  similar  to  that  which  precedes  an  earthquake. 

We  must  confess,  that  when  in  the  midst  of  all  these  horrible 

sights  and  sounds,  we  felt  very  much  like  suggesting  to  G  

the  propriety  of  returning,  but  a  fresh  handful  of  Epsom  salts 
and  alum,  mixed,  stopped  our  mouths,  and  by  the  time  we  had 
ceased  sputtering  over  the  puckerish  compound,  the  "Witches' 
Cauldron'1  was  reached.    (See  vignette.)    This  is  a  horrible  place1. 

"  Mind  how  you  step  here,"  said  G  ,  as  we  approached  it ; 

and,  with  the  utmost  caution,  we  placed  our  tens  in  his  tracks, 
that  is,  as  much  of  them  as  we  could  get  in. 

The  cauldron  is  a  hole,  sunk  like  a  well  in  the  precipitous  side 
of  the  mountain,  and  is  of  unknown  depth.  It  is  filled  to  the 
brim  with  something  that  looks  very  much  like  burnt  cork  and 
water  (we  believe  the  principal  ingredient  is  black  sulphur).  This 
liquid  blackness  is  in  constant  motion,  bubbling  and  surging  from 
side  to  side,  and  throwing  up  its  boiling  spray  to  the  height  of 
three  or  four  feet.  Its  vapor  deposits  a  black  sediment  on  all  the 
rocks  in  its  vicinity. 

There  are  a  great  many  other  springs- — some  two  hundred  in 
number — of  every  gradation  of  temperature,  from  boiling  hot  to 
icy  cold,  and  impregnated  with  all  sorts  of  mineral  and  chemical 
compounds;  frequently  the  two  extremes  of  heat  and  cold  are 
found  within  a  lew  inches  of  each  other.  But  as  all  the  other 
springs  present  nearly  the  same  characteristics  as  most  of  those 
already  referred  to,  it  would  be  but  a  tedious  repetition  to  attempt 
to  describe  more.  They  are  all  wonderful.  The  ordinary  observer 
can  only  look  at  them,  and  wonder  that  such  things  exist;  but  to 
the  scientific  man,  one  capable  of  divining  the  mysterious  cause 
of  their  action,  the  study  of  them  must  be  an  exquisite  delight. 

It  is  worth  the  traveller's  while  to  climb  the  mountains  on  the 
north  side  of  the  Pluton,  for  the  fine  view  which  their  summits 
afford  on  every  hand  ;  toward  the  north,  a  part  of  Clear  Lake  can 
be  seen,  some  fifteen  miles  distant.    But,  perhaps,  the  scene  which 


236 


SCENES  IN  CALIFORNIA 


CLEAR  LAKE.  FROM  THE  RIDGE  NEAR  THE  GEYSERS. 


would  delight  a  lover  of  nature  most,  can  be  obtained  by  rising 
early  and  walking  back  half  a  mile  upon  the  trail  which  descends 
to  the  hotel.  It  is  to  see  the  gorgeous  tints  of  the  eastern  sky,  as 
the  sun  comes  climbing  up  behind  the  distant  mountains,  and 
afterward  to  watch  his  long  slanting  rays  in  the  illuminated  mist, 
as  they  come  streaming  down  the  canon  of  the  Pluton,  flashing  on 
the  water  in  dots  and  splashes  of  dazzling  light,  and  tipping  the 
rich  shadows  of  the  closely- woven  foliage  with  a  fringe  of  gold. 

Some  people  have  said  that  California  scenery  is  monotonous, 
that  her  mountains  are  all  alike,  and  that  her  skies  repeat  each 
other  from  day  to  day.  Believe  them  not,  ye  distant  readers,  to 
whom,  as  yet,  our  glorious  California  is  an  unknown  land.  The 
monotony  is  in  their  own  narrow,  unappreciative  souls,  not  in  our 
grand  mountains,  towering,  ridge  upon  ridge,  until  the  long  line 
of  the  furthest  peaks  becomes  blended  with  the  dreamy  haze  that 
loves  to  linger  round  their  summits.  And  the  gorgeous  glow  of 
our  sunrises,  or  the  still  more  gorgeous  green  and  orange,  and 
gold  and  crimson,  of  our  sunsets,  reflect  their  heavenly  hues  upon 
dull  eyes  indeed  when  they  can  see  no  beauty  in  them. 


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